gas block help

[RemMan700]

I'm going to be using a low profile clamp on style gas block. I wondered if anyone has ever tried the low strength purple loctite on their screws. I believe it has a working temp that goes up to 300 degrees. I know most people probably use blue loctite but I figured the purple would be easier to work with if I had to remove the gas block.

[mpom]

I'm going to be using a low profile clamp on style gas block. I wondered if anyone has ever tried the low strength purple loctite on their screws. I believe it has a working temp that goes up to 300 degrees. I know most people probably use blue loctite but I figured the purple would be easier to work with if I had to remove the gas block.

Not familiar with the purple product, would look for info on heat resistance as the gas block gets plenty hot.
Used 246 on my setup, same as yours, no problem with removal when I rebarreled. 246 is rated to 450 F, easy removal with Allen wrench. No need to overtorque the screws as clamping surface is large. This style of gas block subjects the screws to shear forces rather than compression, as is the case in the set screw gas block. A couple of drops of 246 between block and barrel journal cannot hurt, so long as care is taken to avoid any migrating to gas port, IMHO. Suggest using a marking pen to make witness marks on screws and adjoining place on block, once done, so a quick look will reveal if screws have moved. My OCD led me to make small witness marks on all screws; handguard, front & rear sights, ambi safety...

[BufordTJustice]

I use McMaster Carr knurled cup tip set screws and Resbond 907TS blue as a thread locker. The Resbond grabs till a ridiculously high temp but doesn't snap Allen wrenches upon uninstallation. I've found that, as with the proper application of ANY thread locker, surface prep is vital. I use carb/choke cleaner to prep the threads.

OP, I think you would be surprised to find out how hot your gas block area gets during rapid strings of fire. It doesn't take that long, or that many rounds, to exceed 400 degrees. Add a hot summer day and some direct sunlight, and using at least a 450 degree flavor of loctite is a MUST, IMHO.

Also, as mark said, I am a huge fan of witness marks. One can know with even a cursory field inspection whether their gun is GTG or not.

I've also had good experience with loctite 271, loctite 272, and their permatex equivalents.

[556BlackRifle]

Rocksett. Click the link and read the specs. Good to +2000F and easy to remove in the future.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/thread-locking-liquids/rocksett-prod54624.aspx

[RemMan700]

I will have to check them out. I don't plan on doing to many mag dumps as this gun will be a 6.8 spc for hunting.

[BufordTJustice]

Rocksett. Click the link and read the specs. Good to +2000F and easy to remove in the future.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/thread-locking-liquids/rocksett-prod54624.aspx
If you do your research, you'll find that rocksett is not designed for fasteners the size of gas block screws. Their ratings do not carry over to that fastener size.

I'm not saying it won't work, but no data exists on bond strength, temp rating, etc.

[556BlackRifle]

If you do your research, you'll find that rocksett is not designed for fasteners the size of gas block screws. Their ratings do not carry over to that fastener size.

I'm not saying it won't work, but no data exists on bond strength, temp rating, etc.

Yeah, it's designed for muzzle devices however, I 've used it a total of three times. On one build, I removed the gas block after a few months / 800 - 1000 rounds and it was tight and the screws broke loose with no problems. So, it seems to work fine however, no proof that properly torqued screws wouldn't have stayed tight without it.