View Full Version : 1st Build Opinions
Hello, I am new to the forum but very experienced with firearms. I have been shooting rifles and handguns extensively for quite a while. I just graduated from high school and my awesome dad got me a lower to start a build of my own. I’ve been researching the AR platform for two or three years at least, and have become very well versed - watching hundreds of hours of youtube videos and reading endless forum content about every part and upgrade you could think of. I’m going start purchasing and building the remainder of the firearm after I get back from BMT, AIT and OJT. Gotta love those USAF acronyms! I’ve settled on a SPR-ish type build. It will be used mostly for target and varmint uses minimum range would be about 100 yards to a maximum about as far as I can realistically hone my skills at my range (probably 400-500 yards??). Give all the feedback and firsthand advice you want to a first time AR builder. So here is my idea:
Lower: Northtech Defense Billet NT15S
Reason: Free
Trigger: Geissele SSA-E
Reason: 2 Stage, Non Adjustable, and a very reputable quality company
Safety Selector: V Seven Hybrid 3 Gun Sport – ambi version
Reason: It’s lightweight, appears to have a nice texture and also it’s different from the B.A.D. safety that everyone uses
Mag Release: Seekins
Reason: Texture and Aesthetics
Bolt Catch: Seekins
Reason: Texture, Aesthetics and Surface Area
Lower Parts Kit: DPMS Minus FCG
Reason: Rest of Lower Parts and most parts come from same factories
Stock: Magpul MOE Rifle
Reason: Solid Platform and Cheek Weld – Still debating going with UBR. Are the UBR’s as solid as a fixed stock?
Chrome Silicon Buffer Spring
Reason: Quieter, less wear on receiver extension, longevity
Pistol Grip: Ergo Tactical Deluxe
Reason: Rubberized for better grip and finger grooves for more consistent shot-to-shot finger and hand placement
Barrel: Still For Debate WOA SPR 18”, Rainier Arms Match SPR 18” or Mega 18” SPR
Reason: Would prefer 1:7.7 twist but that is not common enough so 1:8 twist is what I’d probably go with. Maybe 1:7 for cheaper ammo? Will 1:8 actually stabilize and accurately shoot 55gr? That’s basically all the local gun shops have – occasionally some 65gr but that’s double the price and not easily attained in larger quantities. Also a rifle length direct gas impingement gas system would be my preferred length and also because I’m not patient enough to dick around with a piston system. The barrels all seem to have great reputations but I’m indecisive because this is probably the most accuracy critical part of the rifle.
Muzzle Device: Fortis RED 5.56 Black
Reason: I shoot by myself at my own range so sound increase isn’t an issue. Also a flash hider wouldn’t have much of any effect on an 18” barrel and for my purposes a compensator is just a better fit.
Gas Block: Rainier Match Grade Black
Upper Receiver: Northtech Defense Slick-Side
Reason: To match the lower. Also because a forward assist isn’t needed for my intended purpose.
BCG: Rainier Arms BCG - Precision Match NiB
Reason: Nickle boron for lubricity and aesthetics as well as the so – called “better bolt” they include with it that’s magnetic particle inspected and high pressure tested. Also I believe it’s supposed to be machined to tighter tolerances… but who knows ha I doubt it. Also the extractor and ejector springs are chrome silicon for longer life and consistent operation.
Charging Handle: BCM Mod 3
Reason: Ease of operating the firearm around the optic, very familiar with it from another AR
Handguard: Seekins Precision SP3Rv3 15”
Reason: Keymod is a great newer attachment platform and the flat bottom would be convenient in the need for an improvised shooting rest
Well that’s it! I appreciate your input and all opinions will be taken into account. Gunsmiths, experienced varmint and target shooters as well as anyone who has used any of these products opinions mean a lot to me! Gimme your input on the areas I’m still debating as well as a recommendation for optics and a bipod. Sorry this post got kinda long, but thanks to everyone who helps!
It looks like you have thought about why you want the parts you do, not everyone will agree with your reasoning, but that is the way of life.
In terms of some very small things - take a look at this thread for mag release and bolt catch - https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?165925-New-bolt-catch-from-Forward-Controls - look pretty nice, if you can find them.
Kind of going with the personal preference thing, I don't care for finger groves. I prefer the Umbrella and B5 Systems grip 23 because of their comfortable angle and increased leverage for me.
Based on this thread: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?169382-Review-Stark-griphttps://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?169382-Review-Stark-grip - I ordered and very quickly received a Stark Grip, haven't shot the rifle with it yet, but it feels like it handles well and I do like the way it positions my trigger finger.
Reference the barrel and twist rates, here is a good thread on the subject - https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?67792-Barrel-Twist/page5
Have fun at basic, what tech school are you going to?
AssGasOrBrass
05-28-15, 00:12
I think your off to a really good start here. Seems like you know your stuff. Here is my two cents on a few things I have learned.
Trigger: Geissele SSA-E - I have this trigger and really like it. however at times I wish it was a little lighter. The SD-E (Same as SSA-E but flat) feels lighter due to its design. I would go with this trigger for a precision build.
Pistol Grip: Ergo Tactical Deluxe- Have this grip, dont like the angle. My favorite grip I am using now is the Larue A-Peg. I have not tried too many grips but like the Larue very sturdy feel. If you want something with a steeper angle I know lots of people like the MagPul K series grips.
Barrel- Good choices. Of those I would prob go with the WOA. Also check out Lilja, Lothe Walter, Satarn: Just speaking with these custom barrel maker guys (even if you decide to buy from someone else) will really be beneficial. Much better insight that you will get from a company like Raineer which is nearly a big box store in comparison.
Gas Block: Rainier Match Grade Black- With a rifle length system a block is a block. So long as its steel get whatever fits and is cheap. You wont get any benefit from a "Match" block.
BCG: Rainier Arms BCG - Precision Match NiB - Some may disagree but I dont think your getting any performance benefit form a "Match Grade" BCG. You money is better spent on other aspects of the rifle. Since your getting a fancy barrel I would get one with a headspaced bolt specific to that barrel. I got a NIB BCG from PSA for $100. Sold the bolt and use my custom headspaced bolt in the NIB carrier . Runs great. Very easy to clean.
Handguard- I have a keymod HG and am now switing over to M-Lok. the components are cheaper (cheaper to make) and I think it will be the dominant format. For a SPR you wont be cluttering your rails with lights, lasers, or a bunch of mall ninja junk (i hope), Most likely I would only put a bipod (harris) on that rail (mount to simple $10 stud, very light) I am a fan of more than less slick rails. Love the ALG EMR line, great value, very light, and M-lok rails are easy and cheap to get. If you want to go with something a bit more fancy I would go with a Geissele MK 8 or 4 M-LoK, or a slightly cheaper SLR RifleWorks M-Lok rail.
Safety Selector: V Seven Hybrid 3 Gun Sport. I have not tried the V7 but it looks like a good product. I have a BAD ASS selector on one of my rifles, which I like, and the modular design with lots of lever options is also nice. On my other lower I have a simple Mil-Spec steel ambi selector, basically its two classic mil-spec levers, one on each side. Honestly I really like this cheap ambi selector ($25-$30). The action is very solid with a positive click you can feel and hear, more so then the BAD ASS. I like the fact you can feel with your trigger finger if your on fire or safe with long levers on each side. at about 1/3 the price of the BAD ASS I think this is what I will use for future builds. Downside is not so light weight...
Hopefully these tips are helpful and maybe gave you some ideas that save you a little money. Money which can be spent on.... OPTICS! For your type of build, managing to stay under $1,000 on optics I like Vortex Viper PST/HS-T and Burris XTR II with a Bobro Mount. Another optic that has recently come on my radar is the new NightForce SHV, they retail closer to $1,500 but I have seen them just today for about $1,100 (Open Box, demos and the like). I have not tried the NF but they are know for being one of the best in the business and the reviews are great. I would not hesitate to buy a second hand optic. Most of what you will find on the secondary market is next to new. Furthermore companies like Vortex, Burris, NightForce have lifetime transferable warrantees, so if ever anything goes wrong send it back to the manufacturer and in most cases they will simply send you a new one.
For good deals on Optics check out: Market Place on this forum. Equipment Exchange on AR15.com forum. SWFA (matches any advertised price %110) and the Sample List on the SWFA website.
Good luck and have fun!
AssGasOrBrass
05-28-15, 00:52
Here are a few photos of my precision SPR in two different configs. The lower is the same. Top Photo is my new 6.5 Grendel 20" barrel with ALG EMR Rail. The Second is my .223 Wylde 18" in a Midwest Industries rail (Keymod) both have forged Aero Uppers. the 6.5 rocking my Vortex Viper PST 6-24 in an ADM Recon-X (my Bobro arrives tomorrow... cant wait!) and the 223 is the same scope mounted in a Warne RAMP mount (Looks super cool but I dont recommend it, sits too low and does not have sufficient cantilever).
A final word about mounts. I suggested the Bobro because it has the best return to zero functionality and is compatible with different upper without making adjustments. LaRue and ADM also make great mounts. If you don't need QD, ie plan on mount the scope and leaving it, I would go with a LaRue, call them up, they will take $50 off for regular (non-QD attaching mechanism). Any mount you buy I suggest getting the extended version with the most cantilever. Even if you don't think you will need it you can alway place the mount further back on the receiver.
33439
33440
turnburglar
05-28-15, 03:28
So you want an ultra match barrel and only can get 55gr ammo?
That won't work out well.
I would stay away from NiB. There are better options.
Something to consider. Ask yourself how much that upper will cost and then look at an upper from SIONICS Weapon Systems or even BCM that are already built around an 18" barrel. So where you come out at.
Hello, I am new to the forum but very experienced with firearms. I have been shooting rifles and handguns extensively for quite a while. I just graduated from high school and my awesome dad got me a lower to start a build of my own. I’ve been researching the AR platform for two or three years at least, and have become very well versed - watching hundreds of hours of youtube videos and reading endless forum content about every part and upgrade you could think of. I’m going start purchasing and building the remainder of the firearm after I get back from BMT, AIT and OJT. Gotta love those USAF acronyms! I’ve settled on a SPR-ish type build. It will be used mostly for target and varmint uses minimum range would be about 100 yards to a maximum about as far as I can realistically hone my skills at my range (probably 400-500 yards??). Give all the feedback and firsthand advice you want to a first time AR builder. So here is my idea:
Lower: Northtech Defense Billet NT15S
Reason: Free
Trigger: Geissele SSA-E
Reason: 2 Stage, Non Adjustable, and a very reputable quality company
Safety Selector: V Seven Hybrid 3 Gun Sport – ambi version
Reason: It’s lightweight, appears to have a nice texture and also it’s different from the B.A.D. safety that everyone uses
Mag Release: Seekins
Reason: Texture and Aesthetics
Bolt Catch: Seekins
Reason: Texture, Aesthetics and Surface Area
Lower Parts Kit: DPMS Minus FCG
Reason: Rest of Lower Parts and most parts come from same factories
Stock: Magpul MOE Rifle
Reason: Solid Platform and Cheek Weld – Still debating going with UBR. Are the UBR’s as solid as a fixed stock?
Chrome Silicon Buffer Spring
Reason: Quieter, less wear on receiver extension, longevity
Pistol Grip: Ergo Tactical Deluxe
Reason: Rubberized for better grip and finger grooves for more consistent shot-to-shot finger and hand placement
Barrel: Still For Debate WOA SPR 18”, Rainier Arms Match SPR 18” or Mega 18” SPR
Reason: Would prefer 1:7.7 twist but that is not common enough so 1:8 twist is what I’d probably go with. Maybe 1:7 for cheaper ammo? Will 1:8 actually stabilize and accurately shoot 55gr? That’s basically all the local gun shops have – occasionally some 65gr but that’s double the price and not easily attained in larger quantities. Also a rifle length direct gas impingement gas system would be my preferred length and also because I’m not patient enough to dick around with a piston system. The barrels all seem to have great reputations but I’m indecisive because this is probably the most accuracy critical part of the rifle.
Muzzle Device: Fortis RED 5.56 Black
Reason: I shoot by myself at my own range so sound increase isn’t an issue. Also a flash hider wouldn’t have much of any effect on an 18” barrel and for my purposes a compensator is just a better fit.
Gas Block: Rainier Match Grade Black
Upper Receiver: Northtech Defense Slick-Side
Reason: To match the lower. Also because a forward assist isn’t needed for my intended purpose.
BCG: Rainier Arms BCG - Precision Match NiB
Reason: Nickle boron for lubricity and aesthetics as well as the so – called “better bolt” they include with it that’s magnetic particle inspected and high pressure tested. Also I believe it’s supposed to be machined to tighter tolerances… but who knows ha I doubt it. Also the extractor and ejector springs are chrome silicon for longer life and consistent operation.
Charging Handle: BCM Mod 3
Reason: Ease of operating the firearm around the optic, very familiar with it from another AR
Handguard: Seekins Precision SP3Rv3 15”
Reason: Keymod is a great newer attachment platform and the flat bottom would be convenient in the need for an improvised shooting rest
Well that’s it! I appreciate your input and all opinions will be taken into account. Gunsmiths, experienced varmint and target shooters as well as anyone who has used any of these products opinions mean a lot to me! Gimme your input on the areas I’m still debating as well as a recommendation for optics and a bipod. Sorry this post got kinda long, but thanks to everyone who helps!
Thanks guys those are awesome points to consider. You guys know your stuff! Also tech school is at Sheppard afb for 2A6X1 job description is basically just working on f16c engines, excited to get started!
What do you consider better options than nickel boron?
turnburglar
05-28-15, 11:32
Milspec phosphate finish.
Finding much better prices for the heavier bullets online rather than local places
I would look at this. Yes, it does work. http://sionicsweaponsystems.com/store/product.php?id_product=130
Looks like a great deal. What's sionics reputation? Haven't heard much of them.
AssGasOrBrass
05-28-15, 21:44
Finding much better prices for the heavier bullets online rather than local places
I buy my ammo in bulk from Gunbot.net http://www.gunbot.net/
It searches for the best deals from a wide variety or retailers. Prices are listed as cost per round which make it very easy to compare. Defiantly recommend this site
Looks like a great deal. What's sionics reputation? Haven't heard much of them.
Anything recommended by Iraqgunz is going to be good to go.
Anything recommended by Iraqgunz is going to be good to go.
That seems to my general thinking as well ha
SilverBullet432
05-28-15, 22:48
Ditch the DPMS LPK for a Colt one from Grant:
http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=SPK99796
Ive had a DPMS lpk and returned it. crap quality and craftsmanship.
There is a site called www.unbrandedar.com that has an intresting looking lower parts kit I want to order on my next build...
http://www.unbrandedar.com/product-p/elg-ntg.htm
The trigger grind and the look of the mag release interests me.
The site states...
longitudinally-ground trigger, which is ground in-line with the direction of pull along the long axis of the trigger, and then finish-polished. This grind and polish provide two significant advantages over standard mil-spec kits:
Who will be the first to try it. I may, i do need a trugger for my 300BLK build.
Sounds gimmicky to me. I would steer clear and go with parts from a company with an established reputation.
Mr.Anderson
08-10-15, 01:07
For ammo:
http://www.ammosupplywarehouse.com/category/5560/556-RIFLE-AMMUNITION.html
Good luck in your service. Have fun. Stay safe.
Oh, and there is a pic thread around here when ya get it built.
Eurodriver
08-10-15, 06:41
Your reasoning for not choosing a BAD is because everyone else has them?
Interesting.
titsonritz
08-10-15, 13:16
Your reasoning for not choosing a BAD is because everyone else has them?
Interesting.
I was thinking the same thing. There might be a reason everyone is using them, but to each their own.
SniperOverwatch
08-10-15, 19:23
Good for you, and like others have said...you've though through your parts list. That said, I think that you may have succumbed to reading too much on gun forums. IMO, not everything on the standard M4 needs to be replaced and unless there is a massive ergonomic or performance benefit, you're throwing away your money.
I've put by suggestions in bold below. Again, YMMV, and good luck with your build. And apologies if others have already said this - I didn't read the whole thread.
Hello, I am new to the forum but very experienced with firearms. I have been shooting rifles and handguns extensively for quite a while. I just graduated from high school and my awesome dad got me a lower to start a build of my own. I’ve been researching the AR platform for two or three years at least, and have become very well versed - watching hundreds of hours of youtube videos and reading endless forum content about every part and upgrade you could think of. I’m going start purchasing and building the remainder of the firearm after I get back from BMT, AIT and OJT. Gotta love those USAF acronyms! I’ve settled on a SPR-ish type build. It will be used mostly for target and varmint uses minimum range would be about 100 yards to a maximum about as far as I can realistically hone my skills at my range (probably 400-500 yards??). Give all the feedback and firsthand advice you want to a first time AR builder. So here is my idea:
Lower: Northtech Defense Billet NT15S
Reason: Free
Trigger: Geissele SSA-E - Good choice
Reason: 2 Stage, Non Adjustable, and a very reputable quality company
Safety Selector: V Seven Hybrid 3 Gun Sport – ambi version - Unless you're left-handed, you don't need this. There's nothing wrong with the standard AR safety.
Reason: It’s lightweight, appears to have a nice texture and also it’s different from the B.A.D. safety that everyone uses
Mag Release: Seekins - Same as above. Stock mag release works just fine.
Reason: Texture and Aesthetics
Bolt Catch: Seekins - See above. I'd recommend a BAD lever before this.
Reason: Texture, Aesthetics and Surface Area
Lower Parts Kit: DPMS Minus FCG - Nothing wrong here...
Reason: Rest of Lower Parts and most parts come from same factories
Stock: Magpul MOE Rifle - For an SPR you'll like this. The UBR is heavy. Personally I like the B5 SOPMOD Enhanced, but stocks are often personal preference. I'd stick with the MOE.
Reason: Solid Platform and Cheek Weld – Still debating going with UBR. Are the UBR’s as solid as a fixed stock?
Chrome Silicon Buffer Spring - I've never heard of a receiver extension wearing out. Get the standard spring and put some CLP on a it if the sound bothers you like it does me. Save your money for match ammo.
Reason: Quieter, less wear on receiver extension, longevity
Pistol Grip: Ergo Tactical Deluxe - Lots of SPR guys like that one.
Reason: Rubberized for better grip and finger grooves for more consistent shot-to-shot finger and hand placement
Barrel: Still For Debate WOA SPR 18”, Rainier Arms Match SPR 18” or Mega 18” SPR - Good thinking here, I'd go with the WOA but you probably can't go wrong with any of them. Definitely rifle gas on an 18-incher (I though that was standard on anything over 16"?) 1:7 would be nice for an SPR since you'll likely need match grade ammo/bullets to extract max accuracy, but barrels are odd. What works in mine may not work in yours and 1:8 is a good choice.
Reason: Would prefer 1:7.7 twist but that is not common enough so 1:8 twist is what I’d probably go with. Maybe 1:7 for cheaper ammo? Will 1:8 actually stabilize and accurately shoot 55gr? That’s basically all the local gun shops have – occasionally some 65gr but that’s double the price and not easily attained in larger quantities. Also a rifle length direct gas impingement gas system would be my preferred length and also because I’m not patient enough to dick around with a piston system. The barrels all seem to have great reputations but I’m indecisive because this is probably the most accuracy critical part of the rifle.
Muzzle Device: Fortis RED 5.56 Black - Comp vs FH is largely preference, do what you want here.
Reason: I shoot by myself at my own range so sound increase isn’t an issue. Also a flash hider wouldn’t have much of any effect on an 18” barrel and for my purposes a compensator is just a better fit.
Gas Block: Rainier Match Grade Black - Nothing really wrong with a non-match grade GB. I'm not even sure what that would be; how does the GB affect the accuracy?
Upper Receiver: Northtech Defense Slick-Side - Oh, this tar baby. IMO you need a forward assist. Every AR should have one. Yes, I have had to use mine, and you never know when you might need it. I'm sure you've already hear enough on that though.
Reason: To match the lower. Also because a forward assist isn’t needed for my intended purpose.
BCG: Rainier Arms BCG - Precision Match NiB - NiB is overrated. The standard BCG works fine. No sense putting money where it isn't needed.
Reason: Nickle boron for lubricity and aesthetics as well as the so – called “better bolt” they include with it that’s magnetic particle inspected and high pressure tested. Also I believe it’s supposed to be machined to tighter tolerances… but who knows ha I doubt it. Also the extractor and ejector springs are chrome silicon for longer life and consistent operation.
Charging Handle: BCM Mod 3 - personal preference
Reason: Ease of operating the firearm around the optic, very familiar with it from another AR
Handguard: Seekins Precision SP3Rv3 15” - sure, sounds good
Reason: Keymod is a great newer attachment platform and the flat bottom would be convenient in the need for an improvised shooting rest
Well that’s it! I appreciate your input and all opinions will be taken into account. Gunsmiths, experienced varmint and target shooters as well as anyone who has used any of these products opinions mean a lot to me! Gimme your input on the areas I’m still debating as well as a recommendation for optics and a bipod. Sorry this post got kinda long, but thanks to everyone who helps!
I was thinking the same thing. There might be a reason everyone is using them, but to each their own.
No one I shoot with at Fort Eustis or anywhere else uses a BAD lever......and I think it looks gay as shit.
Hey Labeef, Are you in Oregon? The V Seven parts are great. I am getting ready to start a total V Seven build on a Seekins forged lower. I like the Northtech but I am concerned about the waight even with their Titanium parts. I saw someplace that V Seven is comming out with a selector switch that can be flipped while installing to choose either 57 or 90 degree. I think that sound pretty cool for I have never tried a 57 degree switch and it would give me a chance to change it out if I dont like the feel. But your list... I like it.
labeef, you would do well to simplify your parts list. For the controls, skip all the fancy lightweight stuff and get a simple lower parts kit for much less money. It will cost less money to get shooting and the reality is, you don't even know if you're going to like the fancy buttons. It may be that you'll like the standard controls just fine. It's a personal thing, but I don't like the BAD bolt release. It may be more convenient, but I don't like the way it hangs off the rifle ready to snag on things.
Don't bother getting a high quality precision barrel unless you are going to be using quality precision ammo. Good barrels with bad ammo won;t hoot any better than bad barrels with bad ammo.
The 18 inch barrel is actually at that awkward length. You don't give up much velocity compared to a 20 inch, but you don't gain all that much in handiness either.
An 18 inch doesn't gain much velocity over a 16 inch barrel but the 16 inch barrel is handier. But the velocity gain of a 20 inch barrel over a 16 i worth the extra length and the handiness of the 16 is worth the loss of velocity. I would either choose either a 20 inch for it's velocity or a 16 for it's handiness. What an 18 inch brings to the table is that with a rifle length gas system, they are known for soft recoil. What ever barrel you decide on, make sure you get it with a matched bolt. My choice was a 20 inch Lothar-Walther and with the right ammo, it shoots tight little groups.
Carbon fiber handguards cost more than aluminum handguards but they handle heat better. This advantage has made itself clear on every shooting trip we've made this summer. Something to think about.
LaRue scope mounts are famous for their ruggedness and repeatability. But they are pricey. I've been using a lightweight and rugged aluminum scope mount from Aero Precision on a 308 AR. There is no shift in zero and it costs well under $100. It's not a quick release mount, but a quick release mount isn't needed on a precision rifle. If you want to be able to remove and re-install the scope and mount and have it return to zero, invest in a torque wrench.
The first stock I had on a precision AR was the UBR. It was amazing. Cheekweld was perfect no matter what length I adjusted it to and it was rock solid. It was also quite heavy.
Precision AR with UBR stock. It was a hard choice but it has since been replaced with a lighter stock
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Build/DSC_0196.jpg
I replaced it with a MOE Fixed Length Carbine Stock. Cheekweld isn't as comfortable but it better than most adjustable stocks and it's lightweight. My rifle is now a little more muzzle heavy than it was, but I don't miss the extra weight.
Installing the MOE Fixed Length Carbine Stock with a spacer
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Build/spacer%20003_zps8mqoxtqf.jpg
M&P-10 with MOE Fixed Length Carbine Stock and Aero Precision Lightweight Scope Mount
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/Liberty%20Belle/BigSmith002_zps3ddc8b6f.jpg
Whatever you do, don't skimp on optical quality. If you have the choice between quality glass or features in the same price category, go for the quality glass.
The SSA-E trigger is a great choice. But you might find the SSA easier to control because of it's heavier pull weight. If I could could figure out how to increase the pull weight of my SSA-E to match the pull weight of the SSA, it would be ideal. While a lightweight trigger is a joy to shoot, remember a hunting rifle will be shot in hot weather and cold weather while wearing gloves. The heavier weight of the SSA makes it a better all around hunting trigger
No one I shoot with at Fort Eustis or anywhere else uses a BAD lever......and I think it looks gay as shit.
They are talking about the safety selector from Battle Arms Development not the BAD lever.
OP.
Since you are becoming a F16 engine mechanic there is a decent chance you'll end up at Luke AFB here in Az. If you do then I am more than willing to take you shooting with my ARs and let you get a feel of what you want.
titsonritz
08-11-15, 01:20
No one I shoot with at Fort Eustis or anywhere else uses a BAD lever......and I think it looks gay as shit.
They are talking about the safety selector from Battle Arms Development not the BAD lever.
Right. The BAD-ASS selector not the Bolt Assist Device (reference OP's third item)
The battle arms selector is too heavy for the price. It looks cool but if one is to ad a bunch of bling, it should be light as possible dont you think? I am going to strip out all the un needed waight. Time for a 5lv or less AR.
Eurodriver
08-11-15, 07:11
The battle arms selector is too heavy for the price. It looks cool but if one is to ad a bunch of bling, it should be light as possible dont you think? I am going to strip out all the un needed waight. Time for a 5lv or less AR.
Good point, but we are not commenting on the merits of anything. Simply the OPs logic.
titsonritz
08-11-15, 07:51
Not really concerned about fractions of ounces, but Euro mentioned the is not the point.
If the OP is super worried about the added weight difference between two safety selectors he probably shouldn't be looking at 18 inch stainless match barrels.
SniperOverwatch
08-11-15, 11:40
This is fantastic advice...all of it. Wolf knows what he's talking about.
Particularly good points on the 16" barrel. Frankly, in 5.56, a recce-type rifle is all you need because of the round. For >6-800yds, get a good bolt gun in .30 caliber.
labeef, you would do well to simplify your parts list. For the controls, skip all the fancy lightweight stuff and get a simple lower parts kit for much less money. It will cost less money to get shooting and the reality is, you don't even know if you're going to like the fancy buttons. It may be that you'll like the standard controls just fine. It's a personal thing, but I don't like the BAD bolt release. It may be more convenient, but I don't like the way it hangs off the rifle ready to snag on things.
Don't bother getting a high quality precision barrel unless you are going to be using quality precision ammo. Good barrels with bad ammo won;t hoot any better than bad barrels with bad ammo.
The 18 inch barrel is actually at that awkward length. You don't give up much velocity compared to a 20 inch, but you don't gain all that much in handiness either.
An 18 inch doesn't gain much velocity over a 16 inch barrel but the 16 inch barrel is handier. But the velocity gain of a 20 inch barrel over a 16 i worth the extra length and the handiness of the 16 is worth the loss of velocity. I would either choose either a 20 inch for it's velocity or a 16 for it's handiness. What an 18 inch brings to the table is that with a rifle length gas system, they are known for soft recoil. What ever barrel you decide on, make sure you get it with a matched bolt. My choice was a 20 inch Lothar-Walther and with the right ammo, it shoots tight little groups.
Carbon fiber handguards cost more than aluminum handguards but they handle heat better. This advantage has made itself clear on every shooting trip we've made this summer. Something to think about.
LaRue scope mounts are famous for their ruggedness and repeatability. But they are pricey. I've been using a lightweight and rugged aluminum scope mount from Aero Precision on a 308 AR. There is no shift in zero and it costs well under $100. It's not a quick release mount, but a quick release mount isn't needed on a precision rifle. If you want to be able to remove and re-install the scope and mount and have it return to zero, invest in a torque wrench.
The first stock I had on a precision AR was the UBR. It was amazing. Cheekweld was perfect no matter what length I adjusted it to and it was rock solid. It was also quite heavy.
Precision AR with UBR stock. It was a hard choice but it has since been replaced with a lighter stock
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Build/DSC_0196.jpg
I replaced it with a MOE Fixed Length Carbine Stock. Cheekweld isn't as comfortable but it better than most adjustable stocks and it's lightweight. My rifle is now a little more muzzle heavy than it was, but I don't miss the extra weight.
Installing the MOE Fixed Length Carbine Stock with a spacer
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Build/spacer%20003_zps8mqoxtqf.jpg
M&P-10 with MOE Fixed Length Carbine Stock and Aero Precision Lightweight Scope Mount
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/Liberty%20Belle/BigSmith002_zps3ddc8b6f.jpg
Whatever you do, don't skimp on optical quality. If you have the choice between quality glass or features in the same price category, go for the quality glass.
The SSA-E trigger is a great choice. But you might find the SSA easier to control because of it's heavier pull weight. If I could could figure out how to increase the pull weight of my SSA-E to match the pull weight of the SSA, it would be ideal. While a lightweight trigger is a joy to shoot, remember a hunting rifle will be shot in hot weather and cold weather while wearing gloves. The heavier weight of the SSA makes it a better all around hunting trigger
And where the **** is Fort Eustis? I spent 4 years in the Army and have lots of friends in the Army still and I've never heard of that Fort.
Since i dont live all that far from ft eustis, and you say this 500yrd range is 20 min from your duty station, i presume its off base.
Ive never heard of any 500yd range in or around newport news.
They closed a lot of the range on ft eustis some time back, but i suppose could have opened new/reopened what they had.
But i would really like to hear of any 500yd range in or around that area.
Especially at $30 a year.
Btw, ft eustis is a transportation base, or was. It is commonly called ft useless around here by the locals. And its not in yorktown, its in the upper side of newport news, va. A naval weapons station is in yorktown.
The closest 500yd range i know of is at oceana naval base, or was. Its a lot more than 20min away, unless you got a helicopter.
The next one is cavalier rifle range, which is 60+ miles away, but cost several hundred a year, and has a waiting list.
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Bring this back to its center. Now.
Never mind. I missed the "BRIDGE OUT AHEAD" sign
Damn, looks awesome.
However, one of the comments points out no 30 cal allowed.
Im more interested in shooting my 308 at 500yds than my 5.56. My ar is not set up for that kind of thing.
Ill have to call them and verify that.
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Damn, looks awesome.
However, one of the comments points out no 30 cal allowed.
Im more interested in shooting my 308 at 500yds than my 5.56. My ar is not set up for that kind of thing.
Ill have to call them and verify that.
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You're correct, nothing over .223/5.56....which is why I only shoot a 20" WOA match upper and 18" DD SPR and 500 yards is just fine! 308 at 500 yards is child's play with that caliber.
Well, my ar is a basic go to rifle, 16" with a 1-4 more general purpose reticle.
Ive shot it at 500, but the reticle covers so much its adding difticulty. Plus, since it is more of a go to than precision rifle, i dont keep match type ammo for it.
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click boom
08-13-15, 15:24
IMO that is a nice parts list but all the fancy pants everything might be a little unnecessary unless you're independently wealthy. You don't need high speed low drag for a precision rifle. Get yourself a WOA upper, a geissele trigger, relatively basic other parts and take all your savings and buy a lot of ammo/training /optic.
And as others have mentioned, forsake your LGS and buy ammo in bulk online for huge savings.
NeoNeanderthal
08-14-15, 10:19
It seems very strange to me to spend all this money on a build, and get a DPMS LPK. Get WOA parts when you get your barrel. you can build the LPK without the trigger and still get your sexy trigger. I wouldnt give an AR with a DPMS LPK in it to my ex-girlfriend.
The reason everyone else has a BAD-ASS saftey is because they are bad ass. Why do you need to be different if you shoot alone at a private range?? Go with the best one. No one will notice a tiny little safety on your gun.
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