I just broke my 6th .308 full length resizing die...what am I doing wrong?

[Mauser KAR98K]

This has been an ongoing frustration in my reloading trials and tribulations. Tonight I was working with my brand new Hornady resizing die when I had the same problem occure that I have had with other dies before I either get a case stuck, or snap or bend the decapping pin or rod. Pushing the casing into the die goes relatively smooth, except when the shoulder passes through. When I bring the casing out, the casing ceases where the shoulder is about to exit the die.

I have lubed all my casings, using either the Dillon case lube, or resizing wax. I primarily use my RCBS sing stage press. I have used my Dilion 650 but I do not recall if I had this problem while running it in .308. I did have a problem of not getting a full resize when running on the 650, and why I use the single stage.

Tonight, I had bent the decapping ball point and snapped the pin on the rod. This I am atributing to a military crimpled casing. But, almost 80% of the casings I ran through tonight seemed to cease up just as the casing was about to clear the shoulder. I also have observed a black ring around the shoulder when the casing does come out (towards the end, I was beating on the handle with a mallet). This problem also has my pressing trying to pull up and out of the mount on the wooden work bench.

This problem has happened with Lee Dies, RCBS, Lyman (Lyman didn't snapped, but it bent the decapping rod), and now the Hornady. I tried cleaning the Hornady when the problem got worse, but it didn't seem to help.

All brass has been shot through my FN FAL, Ishapore .308, and my friends M1A through all 6 dies.

[Koshinn]

Do you lube inside the case too?

[rcoodyar15]

Decap using a lee decapping die.

clean/tumble cases at this point

look at how the sizing die should be set up. It is important where the expander ball is located in relation to the shoulder and neck

I use imperial sizing wax. Lube the cases with the lube of your choice. Make sure you use lube on the inside of the neck. I use the powdered mica and get in with a brush like this

http://www.forsterproducts.com/product_images/catalog19938/original_case_neck_graphiter.jpg

[joedirt199]

I got away from decapping/sizing dies that do both for this very reason, stuck cases. Happened more on my cheap lee press until i broke the press arm. Now i have a rock chucker and no stuck cases. I moved to a body die that bumps the shoulder back and sizes the shell wall. Then use a lee collet neck sizer that also decaps the primer. Body die needs lube, neck sizer does not.

[markm]

Wow. Strange. I've never broken a die or decapping pin EVER... for ANY caliber. I'd be looking at that FAL chamber to start. And are you using a case gauge to see what you're pre and post sizing are giving you?

[Mauser KAR98K]

Yes on the last question. They are all gauging fine after the resize (borrowed from my neighbor; have one on order). Again, this has happened with a M1A scout, Ishapore No2a Enfield and the FAL. FAL is relativily new from DSA.

I did not lube the inside of the casings this go around, but the times I have I have gotten this problem.

[rjacobs]

I've never broken a die or decapping pin EVER... for ANY caliber.

Come run my auto drive 1050 and I will show you how to break parts that "cant break" according to Dillon!

[rjacobs]

look at how the sizing die should be set up. It is important where the expander ball is located in relation to the shoulder and neck



This is what I would be looking at.

Expander ball to high would cause lots of issues.

I only run Forster rifle dies any more and their dies have setup diagrams for where to place the expander ball on the stem. I believe its almost inline with the vents on the die body.

[oldandslow]

mauser,

I use the same press, the RCBS single stage to resize and decap a number of rifle calibers (.223/556, .270 Win, 30-06, 30/30). I've only run into problems with broken decapping pins when resizing .223/556 cases with the unusual headstamp name "1K." Turns out the primer flash hole is too small in diameter for the decapping pin to slide through and the decapping pin would often break. I had to drill out the primer flash hole to a larger size which would then allow the decapping pin to slide through and decap the primer. I often decap swaged primers but have not had a problem with these damaging the decapping pins. I don't know if this would cause your shells to stick in the resizing die or not. You did not mention what brass you are using (all the same brand or a mixture of different brands) but wish you the best of luck.


best wishes- oldandslow

[T2C]

mauser,

I use the same press, the RCBS single stage to resize and decap a number of rifle calibers (.223/556, .270 Win, 30-06, 30/30). I've only run into problems with broken decapping pins when resizing .223/556 cases with the unusual headstamp name "1K." Turns out the primer flash hole is too small in diameter for the decapping pin to slide through and the decapping pin would often break. I had to drill out the primer flash hole to a larger size which would then allow the decapping pin to slide through and decap the primer. I often decap swaged primers but have not had a problem with these damaging the decapping pins. I don't know if this would cause your shells to stick in the resizing die or not. You did not mention what brass you are using (all the same brand or a mixture of different brands) but wish you the best of luck.


best wishes- oldandslow

Use caution when increasing the size of the primer flash hole. If it's any bigger than you would find on brass for standard U.S. ammunition, you can run into safety issues.

As far as damaging resizing dies, I have only had this happen when I did not use adequate lube on the outside of the case and inside the case neck.

[sinister]

Not enough info.

How exactly do you lube your cases? What brand are the cases?

Brass fired from an FAL, Ishapore, and M1A Scout can have all kinds of issues considering they're coming from two different autoloaders and a surplused Indian 7.62 rifle.

[markm]

Come run my auto drive 1050 and I will show you how to break parts that "cant break" according to Dillon!

I bet. I'm big time into getting "feel" from the press. I run a little slower, but I can feel a burdan primed case, for example, and stop before I mash my decapping pin.

[soulezoo]

I bet. I'm big time into getting "feel" from the press. I run a little slower, but I can feel a burdan primed case, for example, and stop before I mash my decapping pin.

I'm with Mark here... and I've never broken a die (or even a de-capping pin) in 30+ years of reloading.

I have a Belgian FAL and never had any issues with brass as a result of shooting it and reloading. I am careful to set the gas block though so the case mouth and neck are not deformed when the rifle ejects the spent case.

[rojocorsa]

Decap using a lee decapping die.

clean/tumble cases at this point

look at how the sizing die should be set up. It is important where the expander ball is located in relation to the shoulder and neck

I use imperial sizing wax. Lube the cases with the lube of your choice. Make sure you use lube on the inside of the neck. I use the powdered mica and get in with a brush like this

http://www.forsterproducts.com/product_images/catalog19938/original_case_neck_graphiter.jpg

Are you saying to decap and then clean in that order?

[rcoodyar15]

Are you saying to decap and then clean in that order?

If like me your first step is to decap you must use the lee universal decapping die. All it does is decap. no sizing at all. It is cheap, tough and pretty much fits any case you might want to reload.

I decap first because I use an ultrasonic cleaner. I want the primer pockets clean and I want the inside of that brass clean.

I still decapped first when I tumbled. I knew I was going to clean the tumbling media out of the primer pockets and flash hole but they need attention anyway

For sure before you start the sizing process you want clean brass.

[masan]

If like me your first step is to decap you must use the lee universal decapping die. All it does is decap. no sizing at all. It is cheap, tough and pretty much fits any case you might want to reload.

I decap first because I use an ultrasonic cleaner. I want the primer pockets clean and I want the inside of that brass clean.

I still decapped first when I tumbled. I knew I was going to clean the tumbling media out of the primer pockets and flash hole but they need attention anyway

For sure before you start the sizing process you want clean brass.

+1 on the Lee universal decapper, pop the primers out then clean, you will be pleased with the results. If your 308 brass is Lapuas 308 Palma brass then the Lee die will not work for you (without some modification to your brass). The Palma brass has a flash hole diameter of .0590 (1.5mm) which is smaller than the flash hole on normal small primer brass (.0625). Most 308 take large primers anyways, so this is probably a moot point for you but I wanted to mention it just in case.

[rjacobs]

I bet. I'm big time into getting "feel" from the press. I run a little slower, but I can feel a burdan primed case, for example, and stop before I mash my decapping pin.


I'm with Mark here... and I've never broken a die (or even a de-capping pin) in 30+ years of reloading.


I don't load on that press, just do brass prep. 223 runs at 1200 rph, 300blk conversion is 1000, and 9mm decap and swage runs around 1800. Shit happens fast at those speeds. Mostly just lee universal decap pins. I keep 20 on hand and when i save up 10 broken one's lee replaces them. I've worn out 2 swage rods. Broken a ton of advance pawls since its the fuseable link in that machine.

I have a second 1050 that's hand cranked i load on. Broken 2 decap pins on upside down brass not paying attention. Beyond that, that press has 40k rounds of 9mm, 10k rounds of 300blk and probably 10k of 223 with no issues. Blown some primers up because there is no feel on primer seating.

So i agree, press feel really keeps things from getting out of hand with the parts breakage issue.

[rcoodyar15]

I don't load on that press, just do brass prep. 223 runs at 1200 rph, 300blk conversion is 1000, and 9mm decap and swage runs around 1800. Shit happens fast at those speeds. Mostly just lee universal decap pins. I keep 20 on hand and when i save up 10 broken one's lee replaces them. I've worn out 2 swage rods. Broken a ton of advance pawls since its the fuseable link in that machine.

I have a second 1050 that's hand cranked i load on. Broken 2 decap pins on upside down brass not paying attention. Beyond that, that press has 40k rounds of 9mm, 10k rounds of 300blk and probably 10k of 223 with no issues. Blown some primers up because there is no feel on primer seating.

So i agree, press feel really keeps things from getting out of hand with the parts breakage issue.

good god

you must be in the ammo business

nobody can shoot up that kind of ammo.

most people couldn't afford the components

[Just_me_mongo]

** I was having issues like this before. That lower area that is getting stuck, I fixed by using Imperial Sizing Wax. I made sure that the lower half of the case was well covered with wax. I also made sure to lube the inside of the case mouth. This seemed to fix the problem.

My buddy was breaking decapping rods before too. It was the actual type of brass that had the flash holes drilled off center. ***This is only one variable.

I hope that you get it fixed...

Tony

[rojocorsa]

If like me your first step is to decap you must use the lee universal decapping die. All it does is decap. no sizing at all. It is cheap, tough and pretty much fits any case you might want to reload.

I decap first because I use an ultrasonic cleaner. I want the primer pockets clean and I want the inside of that brass clean.

I still decapped first when I tumbled. I knew I was going to clean the tumbling media out of the primer pockets and flash hole but they need attention anyway

For sure before you start the sizing process you want clean brass.


Sounds good and logical.

I have not started to reload yet, but the two rifle calibers I am interested in are 5.56 and 7.62 NATO. Most of the brass in my pile is crimped Lake City so I wanted to better understand how to approach case prep.

I suppose I can set up a universal decapper on a single stage I have, clean it, trim and do whatever, and then run it through the Dillon 550 I have once I figure out how to set it up. (Or keep using the single stage).

Before I go too far off topic, how does a handled drill power swager compare to the Dillon Super Swager 600?

[rjacobs]

good god

you must be in the ammo business

nobody can shoot up that kind of ammo.

most people couldn't afford the components

The 223 and 300blk is all me, the 9mm is split between about 5 people I let use that machine, although I personally have probably loaded 15k rounds of 9mm. I think my auto drive 1050 has processed or converted close to 100k pieces of brass.

I buy in bulk, like min orders of 25k bullets, 35k primers, etc... I wish I could buy the 35lb powder kegs, but I am not a licensed 06.



Before I go too far off topic, how does a handled drill power swager compare to the Dillon Super Swager 600?

Super Swage(or the swage on the 1050) pushes the metal. A reamer on a drill will remove metal. Swaging is IMO a better operation than reaming since you arent removing metal you are simply displacing it, in theory, back where it came from.

[loaded605]

This has been an ongoing frustration in my reloading trials and tribulations. Tonight I was working with my brand new Hornady resizing die when I had the same problem occure that I have had with other dies before I either get a case stuck, or snap or bend the decapping pin or rod. Pushing the casing into the die goes relatively smooth, except when the shoulder passes through. When I bring the casing out, the casing ceases where the shoulder is about to exit the die.

I have lubed all my casings, using either the Dillon case lube, or resizing wax. I primarily use my RCBS sing stage press. I have used my Dilion 650 but I do not recall if I had this problem while running it in .308. I did have a problem of not getting a full resize when running on the 650, and why I use the single stage.

Tonight, I had bent the decapping ball point and snapped the pin on the rod. This I am atributing to a military crimpled casing. But, almost 80% of the casings I ran through tonight seemed to cease up just as the casing was about to clear the shoulder. I also have observed a black ring around the shoulder when the casing does come out (towards the end, I was beating on the handle with a mallet). This problem also has my pressing trying to pull up and out of the mount on the wooden work bench.

This problem has happened with Lee Dies, RCBS, Lyman (Lyman didn't snapped, but it bent the decapping rod), and now the Hornady. I tried cleaning the Hornady when the problem got worse, but it didn't seem to help.

All brass has been shot through my FN FAL, Ishapore .308, and my friends M1A through all 6 dies.

This thread has gotten a little off track and I'm curious what your problem is. I started reloading .308 for my M1A last year and it is testy, but mostly because I am using almost exclusively using LC brass. If you have never seen one sawed in half, it is amazing how thick the walls of that case are. Double what I imagined. I only know because I kept getting them stuck.

Imperial Sizing Wax is the only lubricant worth using for this application. Get some if you don't have any.

Is your die screwed too far into the press? I run my press up and turn the die in until it stops. Then I turn it in just over another 1/8 of a turn more. Size a couple and check headspacing in my M1A.

Just spitballing ideas, hope you find a solution!

[rojocorsa]

Super Swage(or the swage on the 1050) pushes the metal. A reamer on a drill will remove metal. Swaging is IMO a better operation than reaming since you arent removing metal you are simply displacing it, in theory, back where it came from.


Sounds good. Sounds like there is less of chance of making mistakes, etc. Watching super swage videos, it seems to make short work of brass too.

[rcoodyar15]

Sounds good. Sounds like there is less of chance of making mistakes, etc. Watching super swage videos, it seems to make short work of brass too.

I wouldn't mess with that crimped military brass if you gave it to me. I picked up a bunch at the range when I first started playing with AR's. After several brass prep sessions I dumped the rest of it in the dumpster. swaging is the way to go and I think the dillon is the best. I hate brass prep.

bought a couple of 100 rounds of lapua and now I will use nothing else.

of course I just reload for precision rifles. That lake city federal bulk ammo is just too cheap to bother reloading for my SHTF guns.

I usually only fire 50 rounds in a range session.

[texasgunhand]

Useing crimped brass lets you know its once fired brass. I hand ream the crimp out,i had some swaged brass but the primer pockets are a LOT looser than the reamed. Hand reaming does suck , but you seem to get tighter pockets to me.

I also use imperial wax , works great when you figure out how much to apply. It seems to last forever.

Are you sure the flash holes aren't to small or off center? Maybe useing the universal decapper would help.

I clean,decap, resize,clean then reload. If not wet tumbling,brush the necks slightly and lube the necks slightly before resizing makes resizing a lot smoother.

Are you having problems with all your .308 or only brass fired outa that one rifle? Do you brush then lube the inside of you case necks before resizing?

[bigedp51]

The OPs last posting was last Saturday the 18th and today is the 23rd and as loaded605 stated this post has gotten off track.

We have six different resizing dies with broken decapping pins which makes me think something is misaligned on the press, and my WAG is the shell holder.

The Op has also stated there is a crease in the case after resizing.

If the OP comes back we need to see a photo of one of his cases, and then come up with better guesses.

[markm]

I don't load on that press, just do brass prep. 223 runs at 1200 rph, 300blk conversion is 1000, and 9mm decap and swage runs around 1800. Shit happens fast at those speeds. Mostly just lee universal decap pins. I keep 20 on hand and when i save up 10 broken one's lee replaces them. I've worn out 2 swage rods. Broken a ton of advance pawls since its the fuseable link in that machine.

I have a second 1050 that's hand cranked i load on. Broken 2 decap pins on upside down brass not paying attention. Beyond that, that press has 40k rounds of 9mm, 10k rounds of 300blk and probably 10k of 223 with no issues. Blown some primers up because there is no feel on primer seating.

So i agree, press feel really keeps things from getting out of hand with the parts breakage issue.

That's impressive. I specifically took my prep off the dillon to keep it cleaner. Now that you mention it... I could really save myself some heartache by sizing and neck expanding on my dillon. I may set up a toolhead to try just that.

[rjacobs]

That's impressive. I specifically took my prep off the dillon to keep it cleaner. Now that you mention it... I could really save myself some heartache by sizing and neck expanding on my dillon. I may set up a toolhead to try just that.

Thats not hand cranked speeds, thats on the auto drive and changing pulleys. If I would buy the router thats adapted to run on the Dillon trim dies I could process 300blk at ~2k round an hour or something stupid like that. Im limited to around 1000 on the 300blk conversion due to trimmer feed limitations. Any faster and there is a lot of swarf left on the case necks that ends up in my stainless tumbler. Id rather slow the feed down, get clean cuts, have all the shavings end up in my vacuum and not spend an extra 15 minutes cleaning out my tumbling drums.

Which Dillon do you have?

550b is not really possible to single pass prep. 650 is do-able. 1050 is a breeze with stations left over. You need to neck expand AFTER the dillon trim die and there isnt space on the 550b for it(you can put it in station 1 of your loading tool head, but its not ideal IMO). I use the 21st Century Shooting Mandrel Expander. 1 die body and you can then run basically any mandrel you want in it. Its super easy to swap from tool head to tool head. Its also cheap and a precision made piece. I think the expander mandrels are $7.95 for steel or 17.95 for titanium nitride coated.

And a "clean" dillon press you say?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/rjacobs1/0624152208.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rjacobs1/media/0624152208.jpg.html)

[rjacobs]

i had some swaged brass but the primer pockets are a LOT looser than the reamed. Hand reaming does suck , but you seem to get tighter pockets to me.


If your swaged brass had loose primer pockets the swage was run up in there to hard. Every head stamp seems to need a different amount of swage. LC brass even has different years that react differently. I run a very minimal amount of swage to the point that I have had to hit a few pockets with a hand reamer, but overall I dont have any issues. Its very easy to blow the primer pockets out with a swage rod.

[Mauser KAR98K]

The OPs last posting was last Saturday the 18th and today is the 23rd and as loaded605 stated this post has gotten off track.

We have six different resizing dies with broken decapping pins which makes me think something is misaligned on the press, and my WAG is the shell holder.

The Op has also stated there is a crease in the case after resizing.

If the OP comes back we need to see a photo of one of his cases, and then come up with better guesses.

Sorry for the late replay, gents. Ia m monitoring.

I'm currently dealing with plantar fasciitis right now, so my mind is looking for better insoles, and physical therapy and how much it is going to cost me.

I'll try to get photos tomorrow of the casings and my dies. (Trying to stay off my feet).

It has been recommended via a PM to go for a carbide die. I have the Dilion set for the .223/5.56 and it has worked completely flawless, so I am considering going to route. I do, though, want to make sure I can fix my problems before investing in one (don't want to break the thing).

I have a new decapping rod for both my Lyman die and my decapping die on the way, and will this time spray lube in the casings.

[Mauser KAR98K]

Thats not hand cranked speeds, thats on the auto drive and changing pulleys. If I would buy the router thats adapted to run on the Dillon trim dies I could process 300blk at ~2k round an hour or something stupid like that. Im limited to around 1000 on the 300blk conversion due to trimmer feed limitations. Any faster and there is a lot of swarf left on the case necks that ends up in my stainless tumbler. Id rather slow the feed down, get clean cuts, have all the shavings end up in my vacuum and not spend an extra 15 minutes cleaning out my tumbling drums.

Which Dillon do you have?

550b is not really possible to single pass prep. 650 is do-able. 1050 is a breeze with stations left over. You need to neck expand AFTER the dillon trim die and there isnt space on the 550b for it(you can put it in station 1 of your loading tool head, but its not ideal IMO). I use the 21st Century Shooting Mandrel Expander. 1 die body and you can then run basically any mandrel you want in it. Its super easy to swap from tool head to tool head. Its also cheap and a precision made piece. I think the expander mandrels are $7.95 for steel or 17.95 for titanium nitride coated.

And a "clean" dillon press you say?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/rjacobs1/0624152208.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rjacobs1/media/0624152208.jpg.html)

Keeping my Dilion clean is an ever ending chore.

How important is the neck expander? I ask this as I have the high speed trimmer (not the new one) and I have been getting flat cuts on top of the brass. I've rotated the blade, made sure it has not touched the trim die, and have tighted down the screw, but I still keep getting a flat edge instead of a sharp edge. This is with me slowing pushing the brass into the die/trimmer. I generally have to use the chamfer tool. I called Dilion and that said to check the blade, which is in order. Has my motored slowed? And type of maintenance I need to do with it?

[rjacobs]

Keeping my Dilion clean is an ever ending chore.

How important is the neck expander? I ask this as I have the high speed trimmer (not the new one) and I have been getting flat cuts on top of the brass. I've rotated the blade, made sure it has not touched the trim die, and have tighted down the screw, but I still keep getting a flat edge instead of a sharp edge. This is with me slowing pushing the brass into the die/trimmer. I generally have to use the chamfer tool. I called Dilion and that said to check the blade, which is in order. Has my motored slowed? And type of maintenance I need to do with it?

The carbide cutter inserts are good for thousands upon thousands(hundreds of thousands????) of rounds. I get ~20k out of them(6-7k per side) doing 300blk conversion cutting ~.400(almost 1/2") off of a piece of brass. Doing normal rifle trimming where you are cutting .01 or .02 they will last indefinitely unless you chip one or something. The motors either run or they dont. Again running typical few thousands cuts probably never wear a motor out. There are 2 brushes in them, you can change these easily, but again, they either work or they dont. By hand, you cant over run the feed speed of the trimmer. In fact, running them up into the die hard will keep them from spinning. Feeding slowly MAY be inducing case spin which will cause all kinds of weird cuts.

Dillon's carbide cutter isnt a 3 way(trim, chamfer, debur) cutter, its just a flat cutter, basically. So it doesnt chamfer at all. Just not how the tool was designed. For most of what I load I dont bother chamfering and since I stainless steel wet polish after processing the stainless tends to debur and clean the edge up so its not so sharp. I will run a chamfer tool on some brass, but its not often I do it. If I am loading flat base bullets I will chamfer because you almost have to.

Dillons trim dies are cut with the SAME reamer that they cut full length sizing dies with. Thats great in that it eliminates the need to size prior to running up into the die(they actually recommend AGAINST sizing first as it can lead to case spin), but the problem is it leaves the necks very tight because there isnt an expander ball being pulled back through to set neck tension. So you DEFINITELY need to be running some type of neck expanding die after the trim/size process. That could be a full length die, a Lyman expander die(no experience but I see a lot of people use them) or something like the 21st Century Shooting neck expander mandrel die(what I use and its a GREAT die).

Sorry that was a bit mish mash with my edit.

So dont full length size first, just de-prime with something like a Lee Universal deprime die. Run em into the die pretty hard to keep them from spinning in the die. Use some type of neck expansion AFTER the trim/size die.

[rjacobs]

I'm currently dealing with plantar fasciitis right now, so my mind is looking for better insoles, and physical therapy and how much it is going to cost me.



thread drift: tennis balls. Use the tennis ball to stretch out the plantar fascii. You damn near stand on them. Sounds dumb, but was one of the physical therapy deals my mom said worked really well when she had plantar fasciitis. Said it hurt like hell at first, but helped out the most, more than any of the massages or stretching by hand or special shoes, etc....

[jbdesigns]

Keep it simple.
De cap first with lee de capping die

Go clean the cases. I wet tumble.

Size using imperial sizing wax and I put a tiny amount inside the neck. Resize with die that you have removed the de capping pin.

Make sure the ball on the die is below the shoulder. Also I polish the ball with 2000 grit wet sandpaper so it's super smooth.

Wipe of wax with rag and clean inside neck with q-tip and alcohol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rcoodyar15]

Keep it simple.
De cap first with lee de capping die

Go clean the cases. I wet tumble.

Size using imperial sizing wax and I put a tiny amount inside the neck. Resize with die that you have removed the de capping pin.

Make sure the ball on the die is below the shoulder. Also I polish the ball with 2000 grit wet sandpaper so it's super smooth.

Wipe of wax with rag and clean inside neck with q-tip and alcohol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

told him the same thing in about the first post after he started this thread

the location of that expander ball is very important. I learned it the hard way crushing shoulders on brand new brass. Once I set it up right I have never had a problem since. Forster full length sizing die. they explain it well if you bother to read the literature.

I use an ultrasonic, imperial wax on the body and dry lube in my necks

I tumble in clean dry media after sizing to remove the lube and shine up my brass

[Mauser KAR98K]

Anyone having issues decapping primers from ZQI casings?

[loaded605]

Anyone having issues decapping primers from ZQI casings?

Nope. I decap and resize at the same time. I like the MKE brass. Not as tough as LC (.7.62 is all I've done so far) bit I like it.

[anachronism]

Is this brass that has been fired in your rifle? It kind of sounds like you're tangling with machine gun brass.