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FAB45
07-20-15, 17:20
New build I'm working on, whats my best rail length option for a 8.5'' 300 Blk build. I'm looking for the perfect ratio, not too much barrel sticking out, suppressor able to fit. What rail am I looking at 7''? Thanks.

Rayrevolver
07-20-15, 20:29
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-KMR7-Free-Float-Handguard-p/bcm-kmr-7-556-blk.htm

nova3930
07-20-15, 22:38
Its 8 and not 8.5 but i bought this combo for the one im building. Feels pretty good in hand but i havn't had a chance to shoot it yet...

http://aeroprecisionusa.com/m4e1-300-8-complete-upper.html

Waylander
07-20-15, 22:55
Its 8 and not 8.5 but i bought this combo for the one im building. Feels pretty good in hand but i havn't had a chance to shoot it yet...

http://aeroprecisionusa.com/m4e1-300-8-complete-upper.html
Depends if he wants to be tied to Aero Precision's proprietary receiver and rail combos. It appears he's just looking for the rail so he may already have a receiver.

nova3930
07-21-15, 10:27
Depends if he wants to be tied to Aero Precision's proprietary receiver and rail combos. It appears he's just looking for the rail so he may already have a receiver.

True.. I just thought I'd toss it out there though. I will just say the Aero stuff is compatible with any BAR rail. Which isn't saying much since there aren't a whole lot of those. I was planning on doing the M4E1 with a seekins rail till Aero had a deal on the complete upper. And it goes the other way, you can get a BAR nut and use an Aero handguard if you want.

HCrum87hc
07-21-15, 14:07
I went with the Ballistic Advantage 8.3" Hanson barrel and a 7.5" SLR Solo Mid rail. It's a perfect match in my opinion. There's a small sliver (less than 1/4") of non threaded barrel sticking out from the rail. Once my Omega gets out of jail, I'll be attaching it with the thread on option, which should look great. You can check out the gunstruction website to look at different rail and barrel lengths to see how they look.

tom12.7
07-21-15, 14:40
When folks ask me about getting into a 300 Blackout SBR, I normally try to emphasize about what could be gained by piecing things together than buying a quality upper like an AAC or KAC. Some put price out front, but the gamble is still there in span of function compared to a known item. How do they know that they aren't making a very selective decision on a price without a reduction in proper operation? In the 5.56 realm, there are many ways to make a headache. Why jump into unknown territory is so blinded for some?

ETA: I can't type to save my life.

wahoo95
07-21-15, 15:31
When folks ask me about getting into a 300 Blackout SBR, I normally try to emphasize about what could be gained by piecing things together than buying a quality upper like an AAC or KAC. Some put price out front, but the gamble is still there in span of function compared to a known item. How do they know that they aren't making a very selective decision on a price without a reduction in proper operation? In the 5.56 realm, there are many ways to make a headache. Why jump into unknown territory is so blinded for some?

ETA: I can't type to save my life.
Similar to what I tell people who buy a $100 barrel then wonder why they have nothing but function issues

1BallJ
07-21-15, 20:13
Just some info on my upper. Ordered a 9" bbl, I've been told the 8 7/8's is acceptable. I wanted this build to be small and form factor which it is. I did not go the "rail longer than the barrel" option because I wanted a slimmer rail and I already have a 5.56 upper that's built with a fat rail on it.

barrel length measurements:

8 7/8's over all barrel length
8 1/4 from the barrel face to the end of the bbl (non-threaded)
8 3/16's Rail
1/4 from the rail to the end of the barrel (non-threaded)
1" between the rail and the end of the barrel
7/8's of threaded barrel
1/8 of barrel between the rail and the start of the threads

Pictures because we all like pictures.
34281

34282

usmcvet
07-21-15, 20:20
Similar to what I tell people who buy a $100 barrel then wonder why they have nothing but function issues

I agree to a point. I am looking to buy a Noveske bbl with gas block and tube. I have a BCM upper, sightts and a new BCG and CH. I want a BCM rail but there all sold out. I don't need to spend $800-$1,100 for an AAC or KAC upper to have quality upper.

tom12.7
07-21-15, 22:23
When building an upper, how much emphasis is on the quality of the parts AND span of operation? Adding an unknown to the mix may have a negative aspects added to this, but it's an "unknown".

Waylander
07-21-15, 22:25
:suicide:

CanineCombatives
07-21-15, 22:37
I"m at the same juncture right now, 8" or 8.5" is where I want to be with the barrel with a 12" handguard
covering about 3/4 of the can, based on everything I've seen the seekins SPRO is the best route, I'm going
with the new Mlok MCSR and using a different BCG.

RWCRaiden
07-22-15, 09:29
Just a quick question regarding a stamp, if I have a 5.56 registered lower, and I put a .300 blk upper on it, is this still ok under the registered stamp, or do I need to register another lower for the .300blk? Thanks.

FAB45
07-22-15, 09:42
When folks ask me about getting into a 300 Blackout SBR, I normally try to emphasize about what could be gained by piecing things together than buying a quality upper like an AAC or KAC. Some put price out front, but the gamble is still there in span of function compared to a known item. How do they know that they aren't making a very selective decision on a price without a reduction in proper operation? In the 5.56 realm, there are many ways to make a headache. Why jump into unknown territory is so blinded for some?

ETA: I can't type to save my life.


I am by no means going the cheap route. I am just having fun learning a new build. I have bought all quality parts so far, so far it would have been a lot cheaper to buy a complete sbr but this is fun and I am picking and choosing some of my favorite parts. My $350 Noveske barrel wasnt cheap!

domestique
07-22-15, 14:39
Just a quick question regarding a stamp, if I have a 5.56 registered lower, and I put a .300 blk upper on it, is this still ok under the registered stamp, or do I need to register another lower for the .300blk? Thanks.

As long as you are not making a PERMANENT change (i.e. switching out the 5.56 barrel) you are fine to put any upper you want on top of the lower as long as you still have the original upper in your possession.

I have multiple lowers, but filled out my paperwork for the same 1 upper in my possession. This allows me to sell any other SBR uppers I buy and use, and not have to fill out any additional paperwork.

InfiniteGrim
07-22-15, 19:42
I agree to a point. I am looking to buy a Noveske bbl with gas block and tube. I have a BCM upper, sightts and a new BCG and CH. I want a BCM rail but there all sold out. I don't need to spend $800-$1,100 for an AAC or KAC upper to have quality upper.

My friend LOVES cheap barrels. He has 2-3 10" .300 blackout SBR's, all have $100 barrels. His subs are having function issues.... because the chambers are not cut correctly. I use the exact same projectiles in my Rainier .300 blackout barrel with no issues... he purchased one and now plans on replacing all his cheap barrels. So instead of saving $150 per barrel, he is now out $100 for each he has to replace.

JPB
07-22-15, 22:42
I just built a .300 SBR. I went with a Noveske 8.5" barrel, Aero Precision receiver, Colt BCG, SiCo Saker 762 brake, and I know everyone on this site is going to slay me for this but, a UTG Pro keymod 7" rail. I would not hesitate to buy another one of those rails either. Fit was perfect, bolted right up, and is super slim/low profile. Was really suprised by the quality of the unit.

I've only put a box of 220 gr subs through it, but it worked perfectly. Now waiting for the Saker to get out of jail...