Remove and reinstall front sight?

[bb223]

I need to remove my FSB to remove the handguard cap to install my new rail.

I was curious if the FSB realigns itself when you reinstall it.

I have a feeling it does, I just wanted to confirm.

Rifle is factory BCM with F marked FSB.

Thank you.

[praythenspray]

I'm still a newbie on here, but I can give you my experience. I have removed my FSB from my DD middy barrel with F marked FSB a couple of times now. I have had no problem putting it back on. When I line the FSB back up with the gas port correctly, from underneath, the taper pin holes line back up like they should. Then you only need to tap them back in. The only trouble I have ever had was getting those dadgum stubborn taper pins out to begin with.

[SeriousStudent]

It should be fine. Make sure you observe the orientation of the pins. BCM uses the appropriate taper pins.

One of these is quite handy, by the way.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/sight-tools/ar-15-front-sight-bench-block-prod20727.aspx

[titsonritz]

So is one of these.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/pin-tools/taper-pin-starter-prod26485.aspx?avs|Manufacturer_1=STARRETT

[SeriousStudent]

Agreed, a starter punch is a great idea, along with a 2-pound sledge.

I also ordered the set of Starrett punches from Brownell's when I took Iraqgunz's armorer class. It was a good investment, and they have held up well.

ETA: Here is a link to the set I got. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/565-pin-punch-set-prod12625.aspx

[bb223]

Yeah I completely envisioned the attachment of the handguard cap differently, I had no idea it was wedged in there that tight. I figured it was just a matter of notching it with a Dremel and twisting it off, but if I knew what I know now I would've had that FSB block a week ago.

I got the front pin below flush and the rear pin near flush with a 1/4" punch.

I'm gonna man up tomorrow and knock it all the way out, I quit earlier because I felt myself wanting to rush and figured that's a bad place to be. So I figured sleep on it to avoid foul ups.

Thanks for the info though guys, I appreciate it.

[Iraqgunz]

Here's my recommendation. It's not based on internet readings, but what has worked for me. The hammer is the least of the issues.

I secure this in a vise, with the FSB oriented to the correct way- http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx

Make sure it is clamped in solid. Do not use the taper pin punch. Start the pins by "shocking" them loose with the large punch from the Starrett set this one-

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx

Once you break them, then you can use the taper pin punch to knock them out. I usually ended up stepping the punch down to the next size once I have broke them free. I have done this with BCM, Colt, and other odd assorted ones.

[bb223]

Yeah I got it done this afternoon, ended up using a 1/8" nail set to knock them all the way out.

I got it all back together and I'm pretty sure it's locked in good, but I just wanted to double check is if there is any way to make sure the pins are driven back in as much as they need to be?

I hit them back in pretty good and it looks fine and is identical to my 6920 which I never touched, but I was just curious if there is a "proper" way.

I'm happy I came across Paul's post about removing the pins from his company's rifles or else I would've been trying to whack them out with a 1/8" punch from start to finish.

Always good info on this site, I appreciate the SMEs here.

[titsonritz]

So you do not use a FSP bench block at all?


Here's my recommendation. It's not based on internet readings, but what has worked for me. The hammer is the least of the issues.

I secure this in a vise, with the FSB oriented to the correct way- http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx

Make sure it is clamped in solid. Do not use the taper pin punch. Start the pins by "shocking" them loose with the large punch from the Starrett set this one-

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx

Once you break them, then you can use the taper pin punch to knock them out. I usually ended up stepping the punch down to the next size once I have broke them free. I have done this with BCM, Colt, and other odd assorted ones.

[Iraqgunz]

Other than to demonstrate what one looks like in my class. Not at all.


So you do not use a FSP bench block at all?

[SeriousStudent]

So you do not use a FSP bench block at all?

Nope, IG just gives the pins a stern look, and they pop right out.




I keed, I keed! :cool:

[R0CKETMAN]

On a related note...

Can the FSB / or say a pinned low pro GB be reinstalled using the same pins and achieve the same level of "securement"?

In other words is this how one who knew WTF one was doing would do it?

[O3SKILL]

Here's my recommendation. It's not based on internet readings, but what has worked for me. The hammer is the least of the issues.

I secure this in a vise, with the FSB oriented to the correct way- http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx

Make sure it is clamped in solid. Do not use the taper pin punch. Start the pins by "shocking" them loose with the large punch from the Starrett set this one-

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx

Once you break them, then you can use the taper pin punch to knock them out. I usually ended up stepping the punch down to the next size once I have broke them free. I have done this with BCM, Colt, and other odd assorted ones.

Do you secure the barrel in the vise with those barrel blocks you linked to or do you secure the fsb itself? If so, how do you orient the fsb?.....trying to picture it.

Is the face of the Brownells taper pin punch too deep to properly start the pins moving?

I will be removing my first fsb in the near future and want to do it the right way, the first time.

Thanks!!

[Iraqgunz]

The blocks go into the vise, the front part of the barrel goes into the blocks until it meets up with the FSB. I then tighten it down. The FSB is horizontal, otherwise you wouldn't be able to strike the pins.

The issue with the Brownells punch is that there isn't enough striking surface to impart the force. Using the larger punch first imparts that energy to the pin and doesn't slip and move around.


Do you secure the barrel in the vise with those barrel blocks you linked to or do you secure the fsb itself? If so, how do you orient the fsb?.....trying to picture it.

Is the face of the Brownells taper pin punch too deep to properly start the pins moving?

I will be removing my first fsb in the near future and want to do it the right way, the first time.

Thanks!!

[titsonritz]

Here's my recommendation. It's not based on internet readings, but what has worked for me. The hammer is the least of the issues.

I secure this in a vise, with the FSB oriented to the correct way- http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx

Make sure it is clamped in solid. Do not use the taper pin punch. Start the pins by "shocking" them loose with the large punch from the Starrett set this one-

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx

Once you break them, then you can use the taper pin punch to knock them out. I usually ended up stepping the punch down to the next size once I have broke them free. I have done this with BCM, Colt, and other odd assorted ones.

That second link should be this one:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/565-pin-punch-set-prod12625.aspx

[titsonritz]

The install directions from DD for the RIS II FSP rail says to reinstall the taper pins after the top rail is in place on the bolt-up plate. Wouldn't it be easier reinstall the FSP first so the blocks are at the FSP or do you follow the directions and put the front part of the barrel into the blocks until it meets up with the rail to install the pins?

Also do you use a hand guard alignment tool (link below) to line up the rail with the upper rail? If not what do you recommend if anything?

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/handguard-tools/ar-15-m16-handguard-alignment-tool-prod22389.aspx


The blocks go into the vise, the front part of the barrel goes into the blocks until it meets up with the FSB. I then tighten it down. The FSB is horizontal, otherwise you wouldn't be able to strike the pins.

The issue with the Brownells punch is that there isn't enough striking surface to impart the force. Using the larger punch first imparts that energy to the pin and doesn't slip and move around.

[bb223]

I used a TA-60 scope mount to bridge the handguard top rail with the receiver upper rail on the BCM upper and LWRC rail I made this thread about originally.

I tightened the rail on then eyeballed it in comparison to the RAS II on my 6920 and I would think the RAS II is impossible to install out of alignment and to me it looks like they matched up exactly.

[Iraqgunz]

The DD rail is completely different than what's being discussed here. It's been a while since I have installed one, so I can't really answer the question.


The install directions from DD for the RIS II FSP rail says to reinstall the taper pins after the top rail is in place on the bolt-up plate. Wouldn't it be easier reinstall the FSP first so the blocks are at the FSP or do you follow the directions and put the front part of the barrel into the blocks until it meets up with the rail to install the pins?

Also do you use a hand guard alignment tool (link below) to line up the rail with the upper rail? If not what do you recommend if anything?

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/handguard-tools/ar-15-m16-handguard-alignment-tool-prod22389.aspx

[pezboy]

On the RIS II FSP rails, I leave the rail loose while installing the taper pins into the FSB. It allows you enough room to get something underneath there. If you are worried about scratching up the barrel you can put painter's tape on the front part of the barrel.

Dustin


The install directions from DD for the RIS II FSP rail says to reinstall the taper pins after the top rail is in place on the bolt-up plate. Wouldn't it be easier reinstall the FSP first so the blocks are at the FSP or do you follow the directions and put the front part of the barrel into the blocks until it meets up with the rail to install the pins?

Also do you use a hand guard alignment tool (link below) to line up the rail with the upper rail? If not what do you recommend if anything?

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/handguard-tools/ar-15-m16-handguard-alignment-tool-prod22389.aspx

[tarkeg]

The install directions from DD for the RIS II FSP rail says to reinstall the taper pins after the top rail is in place on the bolt-up plate. Wouldn't it be easier reinstall the FSP first so the blocks are at the FSP or do you follow the directions and put the front part of the barrel into the blocks until it meets up with the rail to install the pins?

Also do you use a hand guard alignment tool (link below) to line up the rail with the upper rail? If not what do you recommend if anything?

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/handguard-tools/ar-15-m16-handguard-alignment-tool-prod22389.aspx

While that tool would certainly work, you can use a removable carry handle to bridge the gap and get alignment.

[nimdabew]

Other than to demonstrate what one looks like in my class. Not at all.

Same except I use a wood block on a cement floor, a 3/8" punch, hammer, and a helpful friend to hold the receiver.

[titsonritz]

On the RIS II FSP rails, I leave the rail loose while installing the taper pins into the FSB. It allows you enough room to get something underneath there. If you are worried about scratching up the barrel you can put painter's tape on the front part of the barrel.

Dustin


While that tool would certainly work, you can use a removable carry handle to bridge the gap and get alignment.

Thanks guys.