View Full Version : Dillon 550 warmup??
Hey guys, I'm new to reloading. I have 2000 rds under my belt so far but have some small issues. Load:
40sw
Barry's 180gr plated
Mix range brass
Unique 5.2 gr.
1.130 coal
When starting a new run, my first bullets col will be down to 1.125" and powder to 5.0gr. They will gradually increase and after 15 rds settle into the aim above. I checked and everything is tight. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
wilson1911
09-10-15, 14:38
If I am not mistaken Unique does not meter that well. I am not sure what you have on your dillon, but I run Bullseye and Clays and had some of the same problems. I have since bought the clamped machine heads and micro powder meter from Uniqutek. I also have the baffle and have polished everything. The machined heads are the best investment overall imho. COL greatly improved.
1_click_off
09-10-15, 19:59
As your powder settles it gets more dense. You could try tapping the power measure to pack it some. That is happening as you work the press. There was one guy on here that taped a "toy" on the side of his to settle the powder.
Eurodriver
09-10-15, 20:33
As your powder settles it gets more dense. You could try tapping the power measure to pack it some. That is happening as you work the press. There was one guy on here that taped a "toy" on the side of his to settle the powder.
That's hillarious. But effective.
What does "meters well" mean?
Cap'n Crash
09-10-15, 20:52
The powder measuring issues are not surprising. We had a discussion about Unique recently. But the COL has me stymied. I assumed that this was caused by variations in bullet shape/length; but I'm surprised that you get consistent results after the first 15 or so loads. You've measured enough finished loads to confirm that you consistently achieve your target COL after the first few? I find noticeable deviations in COL when loading round nose FMJ throughout the loading process.
wilson1911
09-10-15, 21:11
How well the powder fills he powder bar on your press each stroke. This why I listed all the things I have done to mine. A baffle and polishing the inside of the portion of the hopper where the weight of the powder sits. With the upgrades I can throw within .1 every time with a consistent stroke. Spend an hour with a dremel tool and polish it mirror smooth. I did all parts on mine + baffle at once, so I cannot say which is better than the other. The baffle controls the weight issue and the micro meter is much more precise.
As for your COL issue, measure from the O-give area, it gives more consistent reading. I reload a ton of lead for the 45acp so wax build up needs to be cleaned also. Also the machined clamp on head secures it in the press instead of it being loose like all factory dillons are. I also have a Alum roller handle.
Here:
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1231
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1333
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1278
There was one guy on here that taped a "toy" on the side of his to settle the powder.
What toy are you talking about? Can you post a pic?
:D
Would a back or neck massager work.... that way you don't have the kiddos asking, what's that daddy?
What does "meters well" mean?
When I say a powder meters well, I mean it has consistent powder charge weights. Extruded powders do not work well with a progressive press, especially long cut extruded powders such as Varget. With varget you can easily get + or - .3 grs of powder which translates into poor accuracy for your rounds. A ball powder such as H335 or Ramshot TAC measures very well and a progressive press will drop the same weight powder charge each time.
Hope that helps to explain it.
How well the powder fills he powder bar on your press each stroke. This why I listed all the things I have done to mine. A baffle and polishing the inside of the portion of the hopper where the weight of the powder sits. With the upgrades I can throw within .1 every time with a consistent stroke. Spend an hour with a dremel tool and polish it mirror smooth. I did all parts on mine + baffle at once, so I cannot say which is better than the other. The baffle controls the weight issue and the micro meter is much more precise.
+1
Polish that funnel!
I used to have a rubber band around the powder hopper that I would "snap" every few rounds, more or less did the same thing as strapping a Doc Johnson to it.
1_click_off
09-11-15, 09:15
What toy are you talking about? Can you post a pic?
:D
Would a back or neck massager work.... that way you don't have the kiddos asking, what's that daddy?
Pm inbound
1) Some powders do not meter as well as others. Do not operate the operating handle on your RL550 gingerly. Don't try to yank it from the reloader, but don't baby it either.
When I first add powder to an empty hopper I drop 5 charges into a brass and dump them back into the plastic powder tube to settle the powder. Then I measure 5 charges on my scale to ensure the charge weight is =/- 0.1 grains from my desired charge weight. If powder flakes stick to the side of the powder tube I rub a dryer sheet on the outside of the plastic tube to eliminate static.
2) As long as the measurement from the base of the brass to the ogive is consistent, accuracy should be acceptable. You will see some variation in C.O.L. due to the variation in bullet length and after a period of time you will know how much variation to expect from different projectiles. The higher the quality ($$$) the projectile, the less variation of length you will see.
When my seating die gets a little dirty, I'll see wider variations than normal in C.O.L. and I know it's time to disassemble and clean the assembly. If you measure the height of the die holder, die and seating adjustment from a reference point on the reloader before disassembly you can get them almost back to your original adjustments when you reassemble the parts, which will save you time.
Thanks for all the replies. I get buildup on the powder funnel where it flares the brass, but never checked my seating die.
Also, I think I may be inconsistent in my handle operation.
If you make your seating depth adjustment with only the seating station loaded, then you will get a different OAL when you have all stations loaded.
I believe Dillon recommends to cycle the operating handle/lever while standing not seated. Full travel of the handle/lever each and every time is important for consistency.
If you make your seating depth adjustment with only the seating station loaded, then you will get a different OAL when you have all stations loaded.
Good to know. I always wondered about that. I have run it full and tested and still started off a fully loaded reloader at a short coal.
I've tried it seated from a bar stool and standing and results are indistinguishable.
wilson1911
09-11-15, 23:48
Alum Roller handle 4tw. It makes your strokes more consistent. A sturdy bench helps also. plated bullets do not dirty up the seating die nearly as fast as lead, but it should be checked every few thousand rounds. when the die is cool at the beginning it will show more col variation, as you start throwing rounds out, it will usually get better(warmth). I too throw out the first few powder charges each time I start. If you are sitting too low in relation to the press, the very bottom of the stroke will not be the same. Don't get too close. The stool is better to see if you miss a primer and watch the powder.
I also check these and put them in a different box for range plinkers. I normally go .2 over for PF.
Are you loading for matches ? or just range stuff ? It takes a while to learn a proper stroke. Take into account when pressing primers in also. I keep a can of air next to the loader. Make each stroke deliberate. Not all brass is created equal. You will be able to tell a good piece from a bad one in no time.
anachronism
09-12-15, 23:00
What toy are you talking about? Can you post a pic?
Not in open forum he can't!:sarcastic:
Not in open forum he can't!:sarcastic:
Sorry, I couldn't resist...
I don't sweat any of this crap for pistol ammo. I just get a few powder weight checks to make sure I'm not over max. I'll drop a finished round into the pistol's chamber to make sure the bullet is seated deep enough, and that it's mag length... and then crank it out. There's just no need to make MOST pistol ammo to the level of precision that you might put into rifle ammo.
Make sure that everything you do is an "average". Shoot for an average oal and powder charge. Don't adjust either based on one or two rounds. When setting my powder measure I will throw a few "throw aways" and then throw ten and weigh it. For my 124gr 9mm load I shoot for 3.9gr so 10 charges should weigh 39 grains. If I'm within a few tenths of that then I know I'm where I want to be. Just like moving your sights, you get a good consistent group then move your sights to bring that group in. Reloading is the same way.
As far as your OAL is concerned a few things happen. Sometimes there's a variance is bullet depending on the profile or if your seating stem isn't a good match. Like was mentioned previously your oal changes when all the stations are full. I usually run a dozen or so and adjust ever 4 or 5 if it's not close. If you're aiming for 1.130 every single round won't be that exact measurement, give yourself a little wiggle room. +/- .005 is probably fine for pistol rounds but you should be closer than that. I usually separate my setup rounds from the high volume rounds after I set it up. After everything is locked down and where you want it then crank em out. I measure my oal about every 100 rounds, powder charge ever 200 or so.
I'm not a load development type of guy, I stick to pretty established/published loads and try to stick with that load until I run out of a given component.
Yep. I agree. Pistol ammo is relatively forgiving. Stick with published and don't obsess on minor variances.
anachronism
09-17-15, 21:06
Dillons "pogo stick" powder measure requires more setup than simply filling it with powder. Because of its up and down motion, it makes powder settle ever deeper in the hopper. At least until all the air space between granules is filled in. Some guys vibrate the hopper in various ways, some simply tap on it with a plastic screwdriver handle, or something similar. When you do this, you can see the powder level go down as the powder settles.
You get used to this after a while.
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