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View Full Version : Interesting Obversation on Inforce WML and Battery Drainage



Shao
10-11-15, 13:23
I remember some forum members discussing in a thread a while back about the Inforce WML and its possible parasitic drain. Some members reported it while other didn't notice it at all. I have five of these now - two gray and three black.

Out of curiosity I decided to check my lights. All three of the black units lit up instantly and brightly. The two gray units were completely dead! Now, since I change the batteries on all of my weaponlights at the same time (bi-monthly, unless needed), I know that I haven't used them since installing fresh Surefire CR123s. SO... I conclude that it is a problem associated with the earlier "gray" WMLs and not the black ones. Can anyone offer any evidence to the contrary or that could possibly reinforce this theory? I think I may have solved the mystery of why some people complain of battery drain while it is a non-issue for others.

If we can figure this out, I'm sure contacting Inforce will get our gray models replaced with black ones that apparently won't exhibit this behavior.

Edited to add: The batteries had probably not been changed on the gray lights in about six months since one was mounted to an AR pistol that I rarely use and the other to a backup 870 that's been sitting in a gunsock. However- the tailcap lockouts were up and they had not been used since last replaced. The expiration date on the cells read 8-2020.

Dioni
10-12-15, 20:45
Interesting Shao. I'll advise/contact some friends (owners of WML).

CatSnipah
10-12-15, 21:28
Certainly an interesting set of observations.

sidewaysil80
10-12-15, 21:32
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I have been meaning to pick one of these up and now I know to avoid the gray ones.

JC5188
10-14-15, 17:30
I have an Inforce Inova, and if I leave the selector anywhere but in the off position, the batteries drain completely within a couple of days. Whether the torch is ever lit or not. If I move it to the off position it seems to mitigate if not completely stop the batt drain.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/14/59098f4a93f8f3c7b4668aefa3c3b1d0.jpg

Not sure if it is considered black or grey, as it could pass for either one imo.


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Uprange41
10-14-15, 23:21
My two FDE ones have been fine, I'm just still trying to get over the Mosquito Lamp "buzz" that they put out when I activate them.

I doubt the color has anything to do with it, but I would not be surprised if the grey lights move slower than the black or FDE units, and have older parts (the parts that cause the drain). Absolutely no clue if that's the case, I just can't see the color having an inherent impact on performance.

Do contact Inforce, though, and let us know what they think.

Beat Trash
11-19-15, 16:46
I have two of the original APL lights. They drain the batteries without using the light.

I have one WMLx on a spare carbine. I leave the light head twisted a bit to prevent battery drainage. Works since it's a spare gun. Not too thrilled about the drainage though.

Have they addressed the issue with the newer lights?

Cmm46
11-19-15, 17:00
I dont think so. I've had the newer APL version for not that long. I check the light regularly but rarely actually use it. Last week I was doing some low light shooting and it went dim on the second round. Id say the battery wasnt even a year old. I do have a 2 year old WML and I havent had to change the batteries yet.

FrankW
11-26-15, 21:54
For what it's worth I ran my ar the other day with a gray wml at 12:00 mount. I was seeing how fast/hard I could run suppressed, so the gun got hot. The light failed to turn on. Just flat dead. When I got home, the light worked. No battery change, nothing loose, just a colder gun. I immediately removed the wml and placed in a closet. I'm unsure if it was the heat or something else but I've lost faith and will only run surefires.

JC5188
11-27-15, 03:50
For what it's worth I ran my ar the other day with a gray wml at 12:00 mount. I was seeing how fast/hard I could run suppressed, so the gun got hot. The light failed to turn on. Just flat dead. When I got home, the light worked. No battery change, nothing loose, just a colder gun. I immediately removed the wml and placed in a closet. I'm unsure if it was the heat or something else but I've lost faith and will only run surefires.

My inforce (can't remember the model number, but it's an older style hand held/mountable) exhibited this behavior recently. I had assumed it was the tail switch, but a battery change returned it to normal op. I don't know what they have going on with the battery situation, but it drives me nuts. I have noticed if the tail switch is left in any "on" position it drains the battery in very short order. Even though it's only a mode selector and the light still must be activated with a button.


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Shao
11-27-15, 07:51
My inforce (can't remember the model number, but it's an older style hand held/mountable) exhibited this behavior recently. I had assumed it was the tail switch, but a battery change returned it to normal op. I don't know what they have going on with the battery situation, but it drives me nuts. I have noticed if the tail switch is left in any "on" position it drains the battery in very short order. Even though it's only a mode selector and the light still must be activated with a button.


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OK, I'm starting to formulate a theory here. Is your Inforce handheld gray? Has anyone experienced the battery drainage issue with a tan/fde WML?

The reason why I ask is that upon closer inspection of my gray lights, there appears to be metallic compounds distributed through the polymer housing. If I remember correctly, Inforce marketed these originally as having "carbon fiber bodies" - which I know is untrue (as far as what we know carbon fiber to be), because I work with a lot of it on a daily basis. Now... My theory... The APLs also seem to be made from the gray polymer. If there has been a metal filler added to the polymer, maybe the bodies of the lights themselves could be shorting the batteries out??? (scratches head) From Wikipedia:

In electrical devices unintentional short circuits are usually caused when a wire's insulation breaks down, or when another conducting material is introduced, allowing charge to flow along a different path than the one intended.

In mains circuits, short circuits may occur between two phases, between a phase and neutral or between a phase and earth (ground). Such short circuits are likely to result in a very high current and therefore quickly trigger an overcurrent protection device. However, it is possible for short circuits to arise between neutral and earth conductors, and between two conductors of the same phase. Such short circuits can be dangerous, particularly as they may not immediately result in a large current and are therefore less likely to be detected.

This could explain the heat issues. As the polymer with metal binding material expands, it could be shorting the battery??? The line "or when another conducting material is introduced, allowing charge to flow along a different path than the one intended" is what got me thinking.

Also, heat significantly reduces the capacity of cells. A metal-impregnated polymer would absorb more heat. So that could play into it? That still doesn't explain the owner of black lights with mode-selector switch related drain problems though...

Any thoughts?

TF82
11-27-15, 10:30
Interesting theory, and I hope it turns out to be true because I just picked up a used FED WMLx and ergonomically I really like this light. I've had mine about a week and checked it every few days and the battery has be fine so far. Can anyone say about how long it took their batteries to drain?

JC5188
11-27-15, 14:37
OK, I'm starting to formulate a theory here. Is your Inforce handheld gray? Has anyone experienced the battery drainage issue with a tan/fde WML?

The reason why I ask is that upon closer inspection of my gray lights, there appears to be metallic compounds distributed through the polymer housing. If I remember correctly, Inforce marketed these originally as having "carbon fiber bodies" - which I know is untrue (as far as what we know carbon fiber to be), because I work with a lot of it on a daily basis. Now... My theory... The APLs also seem to be made from the gray polymer. If there has been a metal filler added to the polymer, maybe the bodies of the lights themselves could be shorting the batteries out??? (scratches head) From Wikipedia:

In electrical devices unintentional short circuits are usually caused when a wire's insulation breaks down, or when another conducting material is introduced, allowing charge to flow along a different path than the one intended.

In mains circuits, short circuits may occur between two phases, between a phase and neutral or between a phase and earth (ground). Such short circuits are likely to result in a very high current and therefore quickly trigger an overcurrent protection device. However, it is possible for short circuits to arise between neutral and earth conductors, and between two conductors of the same phase. Such short circuits can be dangerous, particularly as they may not immediately result in a large current and are therefore less likely to be detected.

This could explain the heat issues. As the polymer with metal binding material expands, it could be shorting the battery??? The line "or when another conducting material is introduced, allowing charge to flow along a different path than the one intended" is what got me thinking.

Also, heat significantly reduces the capacity of cells. A metal-impregnated polymer would absorb more heat. So that could play into it? That still doesn't explain the owner of black lights with mode-selector switch related drain problems though...

Any thoughts?

This is the one I have:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/27/2ab1ab748e870d299488fe3883035620.jpg

And it was one of the "carbon fiber" marketed lights. IIRC, I got this around 2009. Your theory sounds plausible to me, but I don't have the technical knowledge you have re: cf/polymers. So I'm taking your word for it.

As far as how long it takes...if I leave the mode selector on any setting, significant drain occurs in about 2 weeks. Totally dead in a month. That's sitting in the safe.


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TF82
11-28-15, 08:00
Thanks for the info on the drainage time. I'll keep an eye out.