Removing FireCLEAN from my rifle.

[HardLuck682]

What is the best way to remove FireCLEAN from my rifle? I'm talking home products, like brake cleaner or degreaser or stuff like that.

I'm not doing this because of the crisco non-controversy, I'm just looking to switch to something a little more locally available.

Thanks in advance.


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[JackFanToM]

Slip2000 725 Degreser works for me

[021411]

I never had any issues hosing down my ARs with non-chlorinated brake cleaner from the auto parts store. The cans are cheap and it works. I only use it when I'm looking to fully degrease.

[AM-15]

If you do not have hard water throw it in the dishwasher on hard cycle and heated air dry.

Oh and do not tell your wife :)

Clarence

[Failure2Stop]

Quick Scrub does a pretty good job.

From Tapatalk:
Jack Leuba
Knight's Armament Company: Military/Govt Product Liaison
F2S Consulting: Director of Shooting Stuff

[mtdawg169]

MPro7 cleaner or the Hoppes Elite equivalent works well. I've also used brake cleaner, but I have better luck by wiping everything down with a paper towel, using MPro7, scrubbing everything to loosen up the grime and then blasting it clean with brake cleaner.

[SomeOtherGuy]

I've had good luck using common household surface cleaner - there are various brands, with Lysol and Simple Green two examples. I mostly use a Menards store brand that is similar. These are all surfectant (I believe that's a form of detergent but I'm not certain) and water based, relatively non-toxic and not smelly. I spray heavily onto the part, let it sit 10-20 seconds, and rinse off with hot tap water. Repeat 2-3 times as needed, towel dry the part and let it air dry. I have never had rust or other issues on any part done this way. This is cheaper and a lot less toxic than most types of brake cleaner.

FWIW, the water-based gun cleaners sold in 2-4oz bottles are quite similar. I use those without rinsing when I'm doing minor cleaning, but do the process above when I'm prepping metal for paint or trying to get some oil completely 100% removed.

[user]

Brake cleaner works great and is cheep. Just keep it off plastic.

[T2C]

I've had good luck using common household surface cleaner - there are various brands, with Lysol and Simple Green two examples. I mostly use a Menards store brand that is similar. These are all surfectant (I believe that's a form of detergent but I'm not certain) and water based, relatively non-toxic and not smelly. I spray heavily onto the part, let it sit 10-20 seconds, and rinse off with hot tap water. Repeat 2-3 times as needed, towel dry the part and let it air dry. I have never had rust or other issues on any part done this way. This is cheaper and a lot less toxic than most types of brake cleaner.

FWIW, the water-based gun cleaners sold in 2-4oz bottles are quite similar. I use those without rinsing when I'm doing minor cleaning, but do the process above when I'm prepping metal for paint or trying to get some oil completely 100% removed.

Have you ever had issues with Simple Green removing the finish on an AR receiver?

[SomeOtherGuy]

Have you ever had issues with Simple Green removing the finish on an AR receiver?

I've never tried the Simple Green brand, only the Menards and Lysol brands. I've used those on a lot of anodized aluminum parts including stripped upper receivers and have had zero issues; also on phosphate finishes and bare stainless with no issues. No guarantees, ymmv etc. I am assuming that all the brands are similar but don't know.

[T2C]

I've never tried the Simple Green brand, only the Menards and Lysol brands. I've used those on a lot of anodized aluminum parts including stripped upper receivers and have had zero issues; also on phosphate finishes and bare stainless with no issues. No guarantees, ymmv etc. I am assuming that all the brands are similar but don't know.

Roger that. I have been using non-chlorinated brake cleaner, but am always open to new ways of cleaning crud off of firearms.

One trick I learned from an old school gunsmith to remove carbon build up was to use Spic and Span powder. He would mix up a solution and soak the carbon encrusted part in it.

[MistWolf]

Simple Green, Pinesol and other similar cleaners will remove rattle can paint. Simple Green is known to cause corrosion on aluminum, so dilute it before use then rinse really well. Washing with Simple Green or Pinesol or Purple Power or the like and hot water followed by a hot water rinse will clean your AR of organic matter, dirt, oils and greases very well. Common dish washing soap & hot water also works and is milder.

NOTE: The comment about Simple Green and similar cleaners (such as Purple Power) causing corrosion with aluminum isn't too warn folks away from using them, but to encourage some common sense in their use and to rinse really well when finished

[tb-av]

Finish with alcohol whatever you do the main cleaning with.

I would degrease, heat, degrease, heat, alcohol if you really want to get out every trace.

[Cane55]

I've found Birtchwood Casey Gun Scrubber to be the strongest cleaner I have tried. It works like non-chlorinated brake cleaner, except much stronger. It removes everything to the point where the metal is "dry" afterwards. Worth a look.

[MegademiC]

I've found Birtchwood Casey Gun Scrubber to be the strongest cleaner I have tried. It works like non-chlorinated brake cleaner, except much stronger. It removes everything to the point where the metal is "dry" afterwards. Worth a look.
I used to use gunscrubber, acts just like you say. I use mpro7 now, but for degreasing, gunscrubber is hard to beat.

[Cane55]

I used to use gunscrubber, acts just like you say. I use mpro7 now, but for degreasing, gunscrubber is hard to beat.

MPRO7 cleaner is phenomenal in my opinion. It's non-toxic, and works great. I have MPRO7 cleaner and use it and love it. MPRO7 LPX lubrication oil is a fantastic lubricant that works as well as any lube I've used (it's a high quality synthetic oil infused with moly and ptfe - super slick and long lasting). I use the Birtchwood Casey Gun Scrubber only when I want to absolutely remove everything down to the bare metal to the point where the metal is the color grey because it's so clean and dry. Other than those occasions, I use MPRO7 cleaner with GREAT effect. Both are outstanding products in my opinion and I highly recommend them both. They are also both reasonably priced.

[U&A]

ED'S RED user here. it will take it off

[NickySantoro]

I use mineral spirits for that kind of job. Inexpensive and has lots of other uses.
YMMV

[SHIVAN]

I used Remington's Shotgun cleaner. It takes off just about anything that gets on.

[T2C]

I use mineral spirits for that kind of job. Inexpensive and has lots of other uses.
YMMV

Good point. I use mineral spirits to remove packing grease from the metal and wood of old Mausers, Mosin Nagants, etc., and it works well.

[JSantoro]

non-chlorinated brake cleaner

Emphasis mine; it can't be stressed enough.

Anybody else who just jots down "brake cleaner" without specifying what type because you 1) don't know how bad the chlorinated stuff can be, or 2) worse, don't think it makes a difference...get your mind right, because you're doing folks a disservice.