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Rermey Lee
12-16-15, 21:58
Guys, so I got a crazy idea for a build, I want an AR that can be rode hard and put up wet. I know that the standard AR-15 is already a robust weapon, but being parkerized, it could still be vulnerable to rust if neglected.

So what if you built one with a melonited barrel, and all other steel parts coated with robar's np3+ including the BCG, FCG and all the small parts. is that even possible? I know that Robar lists an option to coat all internal parts, can you do that with all the springs and pins? Any parts that can't be coated? What about the barrel extension? are those usually melonited as well when they come with a melonited barrel?

I'm talking about building an AR that you could drag through saltwater, then take it out into the rainy woods for a few weeks, shoot the snot out of it, then put it away without drying it off or cleaning it and not ever have to worry about it rusting anywhere. Ever. Is it possible?

ColtSeavers
12-16-15, 22:01
Guys, so I got a crazy idea for a build, I want an AR that can be rode hard and put up wet. I know that the standard AR-15 is already a robust weapon, but being parkerized, it could still be vulnerable to rust if neglected.

So what if you built one with a melonited barrel, and all other steel parts coated with robar's np3+ including the BCG, FCG and all the small parts. is that even possible? I know that Robar lists an option to coat all internal parts, can you do that with all the springs and pins? Any parts that can't be coated? What about the barrel extension? are those usually melonited as well when they come with a melonited barrel?

I'm talking about building an AR that you could drag through saltwater, then take it out into the rainy woods for a few weeks, shoot the snot out of it, then put it away without drying it off or cleaning it and not ever have to worry about it rusting anywhere. Ever. Is it possible?

WMD beast nearly 100% NiB AR.

zackmars
12-16-15, 22:56
Really all you'd need to worry about is the barrel and BCG.

The rest is anodized aluminum.

In my experience, (living in the Texas gulf coast) the ar15 is pretty much the one rifle i never have to check for rust.

wolf_walker
12-17-15, 02:02
Plastic, anodized(not parkerized) aluminum, chrome bore, add a chromed BCG, bout it.

titsonritz
12-17-15, 02:24
Here is a conceptual start: PROJECT ANOREXIA (http://blackleafind.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=64)

Eurodriver
12-17-15, 04:09
Really all you'd need to worry about is the barrel and BCG.

The rest is anodized aluminum.

In my experience, (living in the Texas gulf coast) the ar15 is pretty much the one rifle i never have to check for rust.

Yeah but...are you actually in the gulf?

My rifle has seen saltwater (went on a boating trip) and the selector switch, trigger, bolt release, and mag release all started rusting before I got home.

Making a "rust proof" AR15 is going to be expensive and difficult at best. Even an SS barrel will rust under those conditions mentioned by the OP

firefighter37
12-17-15, 04:13
Yeah but...are you actually in the gulf?

My rifle has seen saltwater (went on a boating trip) and the selector switch, trigger, bolt release, and mag release all started rusting before I got home.

Making a "rust proof" AR15 is going to be expensive and difficult at best. Even an SS barrel will rust under those conditions mentioned by the OP
Not to mention the springs (detent, buffer, trigger, extractor, ejector)

mack7.62
12-17-15, 07:44
Not to mention the springs (detent, buffer, trigger, extractor, ejector)

This is what to worry about, visible rust on a bolt catch or safety is likely cosmetic for a long time, a detent pin or spring will lock up a rifle in a hurry.

MegademiC
12-17-15, 08:21
Np3 offers best corrosion resistance. Get chromed bore and have Outide of barrel and all steel parts np3 plated.

Grizz12
12-17-15, 09:45
Ruger SR556

ABNAK
12-17-15, 09:46
Duracoat all the parts (yes, it can be done.....most of my AR's are done in this fashion) except the bolt and carrier. For that drop in an NP3 BCG from Sionics.

bullseye
12-17-15, 10:06
The solution to this is easy---''Birdsong's Black-T''--- available in many colors. They completely strip it down and coat every little part, springs, etc. I have some in ''Tactical Green'' [ O.D. green basically ], brown, brown with black tiger stripes, black, and just had the wife one done in ''LSU Purple and Pink'' with pink Magpul furniture. I had a Rem 700 done in '96 and it has been elk hunting on horseback and walking, it still looks great, so it holds up great. I had a Glock 34 done in black several rounds back--- still looks great. For full disclosure-- they are local to me and family friends--- but they do have a very good product and are great people.

Brahmzy
12-17-15, 10:09
Look at V7 Weapon Systems. They make a ton of "exotic" metal parts without all the coatings.

Leonidas24
12-17-15, 11:57
I think having all the small steel parts cerakoted would be a better bet than NP3 or NiB. If I remember the independent test correctly, cerakote prevented rust several thousand hours longer than duracoat, NP3, NiB, or any of the other wonder finishes. I'd wager a rifle with a chrome bore, NP3 bolt and carrier, anodized or cerakote receivers, and cerakoted small parts would prevent rust for a fairly long time.

Schulze
12-17-15, 12:18
COTS stuff:

Nitrided barrel
AIM nitrided bcg
nitrided lo pro gas block
nitrided gas tube
nitrided muzzle device.
MBUS pro nitrided sights
Nitride LPK: http://www.groundzeroprecision.com/products/basic-ar-15-mil-spec-lower-parts-kit-no-fire-control-group

Take all the other steel stuff, like castle nut, screws, fcg etc... and send them to a nitriding place. It isn't expensive.

Everything else is plastic or aluminum.

fill the spring cavities with grease.

That should do it.

zackmars
12-17-15, 12:48
Yeah but...are you actually in the gulf?

My rifle has seen saltwater (went on a boating trip) and the selector switch, trigger, bolt release, and mag release all started rusting before I got home.

Making a "rust proof" AR15 is going to be expensive and difficult at best. Even an SS barrel will rust under those conditions mentioned by the OP

Short answer, yes. I can walk about 50 feet and be standing in the water of the gulf.

My rifle has been submerged multiple times, and god knows how longs its sat in my truck.

I've given it every opportunity to start rusting, but it hasn't.

It wouldn't be expensive because there isn't a whole lot you have to do

Rermey Lee
12-17-15, 20:10
Not to mention the springs (detent, buffer, trigger, extractor, ejector)

exactly, and this is the part I wondered about the most. Is it possible to coat all those little parts with something like np3 or duracoat and not muck up the works? coating the springs? would it change the tension? I'm very curious about this.

Rermey Lee
12-17-15, 20:11
I think having all the small steel parts cerakoted would be a better bet than NP3 or NiB. If I remember the independent test correctly, cerakote prevented rust several thousand hours longer than duracoat, NP3, NiB, or any of the other wonder finishes. I'd wager a rifle with a chrome bore, NP3 bolt and carrier, anodized or cerakote receivers, and cerakoted small parts would prevent rust for a fairly long time. Interesting info on the cerakote, I never knew it was so good at preventing corrosion, thanks for your reply.

wolf_walker
12-17-15, 20:32
Is there a tactical belt of chest mounted wd40 can holder? That's probly be cheaper and work as well.

Hayseed
12-17-15, 20:37
Coat it in wd40. I've had my fair share of ocean swims with a wd40'D m4 that showed little to no rust. Just clean it well as soon as you're able to.

Benito
12-17-15, 20:46
This thread is making my OCD act up. I will have to go break down all my ARs and meticulously clean and oil every nook and cranny.

Rermey Lee
12-17-15, 21:26
Duracoat all the parts (yes, it can be done.....most of my AR's are done in this fashion) except the bolt and carrier. For that drop in an NP3 BCG from Sionics.

That's a good plan, it's cool that someone has done this before.

Rermey Lee
12-17-15, 21:27
Is there a tactical belt of chest mounted wd40 can holder? That's probly be cheaper and work as well.

Hahaha, that's awesome!

wolf_walker
12-17-15, 21:36
Hahaha, that's awesome!

You could mount a tiny pressurized can in the stock or grip that poof'd into the action after every other shot
fired... (patent pending)

Or like a chainsaw bar lube button on the grip lol...

firefighter37
12-17-15, 21:52
For those suggesting WD40, check out Corrosion X. It is worlds better than WD40, which in my opinion sucks.

wolf_walker
12-17-15, 22:55
I was mostly kidding, but my wifes constantly left out to rust half a mile from the ocean garden tools say WD still does the deed... lol

Leonidas24
12-17-15, 23:07
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlUwOR4Tq10

MistWolf
12-18-15, 00:27
Soak the rifle in a tube of boiling Frog Lube for a couple of hours.

In all seriousness, keep the AR well lubed. Parkerizing is porous and is made to soak up and hold oil to combat corrosion

WS6
12-18-15, 01:47
I have taken my DDM4 hunting in the rain. What rusted:

Bolt release
Bolts holding the rail in place
End Plate (Noveske) where it was staked only
Edge of Cam Pin (QPQ'ed, Fathom Arms)

Hwoever, I shot a ton of Wolf through it suppressed, and what rusted was...

Carrier
FP retaining pin
Bolt release
Barrel extension where it abutts the carrier
Firing pin (corroded through the chrome)
Maybe some other odds/ends

Basically, I think Wolf Polyformance is slightly corrosive...

Moose-Knuckle
12-18-15, 03:48
Soak the rifle in a tube of boiling Frog Lube for a couple of hours.


I would substitute Frog Lube with Crisco, oh I mean FIREClean . . .






:jester:

Scrubber3
12-18-15, 09:16
My subjective advice: steer clear of using WD40 on a firearm unless the manufacturer specifically says to use it. If you have to ask why, do some research. I used it once in the 90s to clean an antique double barrel that my stepdad had passed down to him. Ruined it. 2 days after I used it, the metal had oxidized horribly.

Doc Safari
12-18-15, 09:19
It's been many many years, but I seem to remember someone telling me the springs on the rifle are stainless steel. I remember seeing a light coat of rust on a Colt hammer spring and handguard retainer spring many years ago, but other than that I don't remember ever seeing a rusted spring on an AR. I even wonder if the rust on that hammer spring was just corrosion migrating from another part since it wiped right off.

jbjh
12-18-15, 11:38
Np3 offers best corrosion resistance. Get chromed bore and have Outide of barrel and all steel parts np3 plated.

^This
Considering NP3 is used on drilling rigs, coupled with the lifetime guarantee, it's hard to argue.

MistWolf
12-18-15, 12:05
After the things I've seen, I wouldn't use "Life Time Guarantee" as evidence a product "Works As Advertised". You can bet that if your rifle dissolves into a pile of red & grey dust while using any corrosion preventative, the maker will send their condolences for your loss along with a new can to replace the one you were unhappy with

wolf_walker
12-18-15, 12:19
Yeah that's right up there with "as seen on TV"...

Rermey Lee
12-18-15, 19:48
Robar has Np3 plus coated BCG's for sale, I'm considering picking one up as a start to this build.

awdxtc
12-18-15, 21:34
I clean my guns that i shoit often but they ones I worry about rusting are the ones I don't use often. For those I use fluid film.

Screwball
12-18-15, 23:14
^This
Considering NP3 is used on drilling rigs, coupled with the lifetime guarantee, it's hard to argue.

Yep, for a gun you have to worry about corrosion, NP3 is pretty good. I opted for NP3 Plus on my bed shotgun and backup revolver (S&W 642-1, which I just got my 9mm cylinder back from Robar, which matched it to the gun). I tend to clean the shotgun off when I shoot and then every couple months to clean lint off of it. No lube is ran, being my sheets drape over the gun...

I've also had great results from CCR with there cera-plate. I tend to use Robar for long guns and alloys, because CCR doesn't plate either of those (might have changed with the long guns). CCR does work on par with Robar, just at a lot lower cost.

http://www.ccrrefinishing.com/

Campbell
12-19-15, 02:44
Cerakote is very good against salt spray and sweat. I have had customers request this on ARs that are going to be stored long term, and we all get our peace of mind different ways. If its a rifle that is going to be used and maintained, normal care will suffice IMO. In extreme situations, spring/detents can need some attention, but it isn't the norm. The AR platform is pretty damn hardy.:smile:

specopsscout
12-19-15, 07:41
I used my Ceracoated Remy 700 in a week long Police Sniper Course, where the weather was basically a cold torrential down pour for twelve plus hours a day. I had some light rusting on the scope ring screw caps on the first day, but after a liberal wipe down with a Sentry Solutions Marine Cloth, I had no more issues, with rusting. The Ceracoat has held up very well over the years.

MegademiC
12-19-15, 09:26
After the things I've seen, I wouldn't use "Life Time Guarantee" as evidence a product "Works As Advertised". You can bet that if your rifle dissolves into a pile of red & grey dust while using any corrosion preventative, the maker will send their condolences for your loss along with a new can to replace the one you were unhappy with

Lol, np3 doesn't come in a can, it's electoless nickel with teflon imbeded within the coating. If done properly, the parts will last.

Edit: np3 is good, np3 plus is rediculous . I'd go with that in salt environments.

SilverBullet432
12-19-15, 11:53
^This
Considering NP3 is used on drilling rigs, coupled with the lifetime guarantee, it's hard to argue.



Nickel plating an even ceramic coatings have been in the patch for a while now. There's even ceramic coated tubulars now. $$$