View Full Version : Torque wrench question - used vs. new
I've been looking for a decent-quality torque wrench that I can use to build a few uppers with. Thanks to a forum member here (Kowalski), I checked locally and found a 30-250ft/lb CDI torque wrench for ~$80. I'm debating between buying this one and a new Kobalt (Lowes brand). Here's the dilemma...
The guy that is selling the CDI seems honest. It looks to be in good shape, but it doesn't have any paperwork/warranty/etc. He's into working on his own bikes, and he bought it for a few one-time uses from a friend of his who's also into working on his own bikes. All of that being said, he's not sure how long his buddy had it or how it was stored, but he said it worked well for him. The model usually sells for about ~$170.
However, I can buy a 3/8" drive, 20-100ft/lb torque wrench from Lowes for $55, and it comes with a lifetime replacement warranty. It may not be as nice as the CDI, but it should be calibrated out of the box and I can always swap it out for a new one if something happens to it.
Should I be worried about the CDI being out of calibration and pass on it? Or should it be good to go? Opinions?
I've been looking for a decent-quality torque wrench that I can use to build a few uppers with. Thanks to a forum member here (Kowalski), I checked locally and found a 30-250ft/lb CDI torque wrench for ~$80. I'm debating between buying this one and a new Kobalt (Lowes brand). Here's the dilemma...
The guy that is selling the CDI seems honest. It looks to be in good shape, but it doesn't have any paperwork/warranty/etc. He's into working on his own bikes, and he bought it for a few one-time uses from a friend of his who's also into working on his own bikes. All of that being said, he's not sure how long his buddy had it or how it was stored, but he said it worked well for him. The model usually sells for about ~$170.
However, I can buy a 3/8" drive, 20-100ft/lb torque wrench from Lowes for $55, and it comes with a lifetime replacement warranty. It may not be as nice as the CDI, but it should be calibrated out of the box and I can always swap it out for a new one if something happens to it.
Should I be worried about the CDI being out of calibration and pass on it? Or should it be good to go? Opinions?
A 30-250 ft# TW is of little use for working on an AR. Even the best wrenches are only accurate in the middle of their range. 30 ft# is too high for a muzzle device even if accurate and the required range for the barrel nut is wide enough not to require a torque wrench unless you drink the kool-aid over at I wanna be a sniper while hiding.com BTW... I have 4 torque wrenches.
Averageman
12-28-15, 19:43
I've been looking for a decent-quality torque wrench that I can use to build a few uppers with. Thanks to a forum member here (Kowalski), I checked locally and found a 30-250ft/lb CDI torque wrench for ~$80. I'm debating between buying this one and a new Kobalt (Lowes brand). Here's the dilemma...
The guy that is selling the CDI seems honest. It looks to be in good shape, but it doesn't have any paperwork/warranty/etc. He's into working on his own bikes, and he bought it for a few one-time uses from a friend of his who's also into working on his own bikes. All of that being said, he's not sure how long his buddy had it or how it was stored, but he said it worked well for him. The model usually sells for about ~$170.
However, I can buy a 3/8" drive, 20-100ft/lb torque wrench from Lowes for $55, and it comes with a lifetime replacement warranty. It may not be as nice as the CDI, but it should be calibrated out of the box and I can always swap it out for a new one if something happens to it.
Should I be worried about the CDI being out of calibration and pass on it? Or should it be good to go? Opinions?
As long as he was returning it to zero and not using it for a purpose it was not intended for you should be alright.
You can however avoid any doubt you may have buy going to Sears and purchasing an old school Bar torque wrench as opposed to a used one and save half or more of your money.
That's a pretty solid tool and easy to use. A little trick to using it is to cut a thin piece of electric tape with a straight edge and set it on edge of the gauge at the torque you're going for. Check it twice, apply the thin straight piece of tape and it makes it easy to read in low light or odd positions.
We have a $3500 torque wrench tester at my work and I regularly test my personal ( 4 of them )Snap On torque wrenches with it. I set mine back to zero and I still need to have them re-calibrated every few years. I even had one that was new and I never used it, after 4 years sitting it needed to be calibrated.
Based off of my personal experience I would only buy new, and one I could send out to be checked/calibrated.
Buy new. Like Mauser202, I have multiple SO torque wrenches and they need to be calibrated every so often. Generally, the cheaper the torque wrench, the shorter time between calibrations, if they are accurate to begin with. Cheaper torque wrenches are also notorious for giving inaccurate readings.
Torque wrenches should be on the buy once, cry once list of items.
We have a $3500 torque wrench tester at my work and I regularly test my personal ( 4 of them )Snap On torque wrenches with it. I set mine back to zero and I still need to have them re-calibrated every few years. I even had one that was new and I never used it, after 4 years sitting it needed to be calibrated.
Based off of my personal experience I would only buy new, and one I could send out to be checked/calibrated.
How well do the bending beam torque wrenches hold their calibration?
How well do the bending beam torque wrenches hold their calibration?
Can't say, I only own click types and dial types, same for work. I have heard that they are not as accurate but hold their calibration well.
Was actually discussing torque wrenches with the buy who built my race car not to long ago. We decided that torquing down lug nuts, Craftsman and Kobalt is okay. For engines he only trusts 1. Snap On 2. Matco 3. Mac
I think for a barrel but a hardware store special may be just fine. But all the barrel nuts I've torqued down, even with moli, even backing off and going back on multiple times, required a little more than spec torque to align w/gas tube. Maybe the torque wrench was out of whack.
I also discovered that my Craftsman torque wrench broke. Will not set a value on the dial. Just spins. This happened while it was sitting in its case in my tool cabinet. Always set to zero after use just took a crap all on its own.
The SnapOn one I was given by my father in law which he used at work for years still works perfectly. Just sayin'
1. Snap On 2. Matco 3. Mac
That's the order of tools in general. I would add Cornwell at #4.
For most stuff the average person does, a Craftsman/Kobalt class tq wrench is more than good enough. Like Alex V said above though, if it's something critical like head bolts, you better get a good one and you better keep it in calibration. Keep in mind that bolts have torque specs for a reason and some specs have tighter tolerances than others. Match your tool to the requirements of the job at hand...
I've been looking for a decent-quality torque wrench that I can use to build a few uppers with. Thanks to a forum member here (Kowalski), I checked locally and found a 30-250ft/lb CDI torque wrench for ~$80. I'm debating between buying this one and a new Kobalt (Lowes brand). Here's the dilemma...
$80 is cheap for that TW. Is that the 1/2"?
The guy that is selling the CDI seems honest. It looks to be in good shape, but it doesn't have any paperwork/warranty/etc. He's into working on his own bikes, and he bought it for a few one-time uses from a friend of his who's also into working on his own bikes. All of that being said, he's not sure how long his buddy had it or how it was stored, but he said it worked well for him. The model usually sells for about ~$170.
However, I can buy a 3/8" drive, 20-100ft/lb torque wrench from Lowes for $55, and it comes with a lifetime replacement warranty. It may not be as nice as the CDI, but it should be calibrated out of the box and I can always swap it out for a new one if something happens to it.
Lowes generally carries Chinese-made stuff. That in itself isn't bad, but generally, "you get what you pay for" applies. Try to stalk them (or Home Depot) for the US made stuff that comes through now and then.
I have a USA made Husky 1/2" I bought for $75 from Home Depot. That one has been great for the big work on the truck. The USA made tools from the big box stores are tough to find, but when you do, grab it. A good forum to monitor the tool market is Garage Journal. They're a good barometer.
Should I be worried about the CDI being out of calibration and pass on it? Or should it be good to go? Opinions?
Any TW that isn't treated properly is at risk for getting thrown off.
For $80 for a 1/2"(?) CDI, I'd gamble and pick it up. Bring it home and then measure it to see where it is reading. There's a few crude tests you can do at home to gauge where a TW is measuring. That should be done on any TW, even right out of te box. A user needs to know how accurate his/her tools are. For example a miter saw out of the box needs to be measured/verified and set up for true. To not go into this detail leaves the user somewhat blind. Kind of like shooting a gun that hasn't been zeroed.
Averageman
12-31-15, 09:16
However, I can buy a 3/8" drive, 20-100ft/lb torque wrench from Lowes for $55, and it comes with a lifetime replacement warranty. It may not be as nice as the CDI, but it should be calibrated out of the box and I can always swap it out for a new one if something happens to it.
Should I be worried about the CDI being out of calibration and pass on it? Or should it be good to go? Opinions?
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8
I think you will find it fine for your purposes.
True it isn't the newest and fanciest, but this should be fine for 99% of what you're going to do.
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