View Full Version : Well, I didn't see this coming...
I've been wanting to purchase an ultrasonic cleaner for a while now. Mostly for cleaning brass, but also as a quick and easy method to clean pistols quickly, especially my fullsize M&P that sees a lot of suppressed use. Well, lo and behold, my father heard me talking about it a while back and he got me one for Christmas.
So, a few days ago, I broke it out, filled it with a 50/50 solution of purple power & water and dropped in my field stripped M&P. I ran it for an 8 minute cycle. When I pulled it out of the solution to rinse it off, I discovered that my Apex FSS trigger shoe was ruined. Quite a surprise to me, because the part is anodized according to Apex and the solution was diluted. After contacting Apex, I've been informed that it is not covered under warranty and a replacement trigger shoe is going to run me $80. That's almost 3x what the freaking US cleaner cost. Crap!
Here's the results
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151231/1c7b89b4cec07ff4921731409398d213.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151231/01cf09abdcf3b6f233c7ce78167bfe17.jpg
The rest of the gun was clean as a whistle, with no damage to any other small parts.
snowdog650
12-31-15, 10:41
I wouldn't say that it is *ruined* per se, as it is still entirely functional.
What sonic cleaner are you using that cost only $27?
snowdog650
12-31-15, 10:44
Also ... when I use a sonic cleaner for brass, the dilution ratio is like 20:1 ... not 1:1. However, I have never used Purple Power ... only the Hornady sonic solution.
I've always understood that ultrasonic cleaners and aluminum were a no-go, even when anodized. The sound erodes the metal on a microscopic level....
I've never understood the obsession to clean with "ultrasonic" cleaners....so not necessary, and not even particularly helpful.
I wouldn't say that it is *ruined* per se, as it is still entirely functional.
What sonic cleaner are you using that cost only $27?
It was on sale for a good discount at Harbor Freight. Not sure of the regular price, but it's the larger model, with the heated tub.
I've never understood the obsession to clean with "ultrasonic" cleaners....so not necessary, and not even particularly helpful.
Well, it beats having to detail strip the frame and scrub it with a toothbrush.
I've always understood that ultrasonic cleaners and aluminum were a no-go, even when anodized. The sound erodes the metal on a microscopic level....
yup. Would love to be able to drop my anodized aluminum suppressor baffles out of my TiRant into ultrasonic.
Well, it beats having to detail strip the frame and scrub it with a toothbrush.
I have an HK45C that is used as a dedicated suppressor host. It gets NASTY so I know your pain. I spray it down with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, scrub a little with a brush, spray it again, then use an air hose to blast it to get all the junk out. Comes pretty clean. Then hit it with CLP all over and another hose down with the air hose to blast off most of the clp. Quick wipe down and its done.
I've seen diluted Purple Power take paint off airplanes...I'm honestly surprised it didn't do more damage. As long as it functions fine I'd run it. I don't much care if my guns are "ugly"; they're tools.
Can you soak a can in soap and water in lieu of an "instant gratification" brake cleaner solution?
I use straight simple green in my US for cleaning small steel parts like suppressor mounts. It works great.
yup. Would love to be able to drop my anodized aluminum suppressor baffles out of my TiRant into ultrasonic.
It's what made me buy a spectre ii instead of a warlock
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It's what made me buy a spectre ii instead of a warlock
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Haven't tried my Spectre in the US yet. How well does it remove lead from the baffles?
Haven't tried my Spectre in the US yet. How well does it remove lead from the baffles?
Not bad even with my harbor freight special. Probably better if you have a good one.
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Not surprising at all since ultrasonic cleaners eat aluminum alive. The way you test them to make sure that there working properly is to ball up some aluminum foil and toss it in. It should come out with a ton of tiny holes. If it doesn't, something is wrong with it.
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What I don't really understand is how armories drop whole AR's into an ultrasonic without damaging the receivers?
crosseyedshooter
12-31-15, 14:16
In other hobbies such as cycling and RC cars, they use Purple Power to strip anodizing from aluminum. I think it was the wrong chemical to use in this case. The SDS also states not to store in aluminum container.
I use straight simple green in my US for cleaning small steel parts like suppressor mounts. It works great.
Steel and Simple green is ok, but it'll kill any aluminum parts.
I've never understood the obsession to clean with "ultrasonic" cleaners....so not necessary, and not even particularly helpful.
That is your opinion and you're entitled to it, but if you haven't used one, don't knock it until you've tried one.
I can toss my suppressor into the tank and it comes out fantastic. Same with most everything else I've used in it....Shotgun pistons, you name it, it saves you time and effort.
I've never had this isssue with mine OP, however, I use the Hornady solution as well. I've used simple green in the past also and it seems to work fine. Heavily diluted of course.
Coal Dragger
12-31-15, 14:33
I have never put aluminum parts in my Lyman ultrasonic, guess I'll make sure to avoid doing that.
I use the Lyman steel parts cleaning solution and dilute it pee instructions like 20:1 with water. It works quite well on steel parts. I am particularly fond of using it to clean AR bolt carrier groups, heat the tank up wipe excess oil off the BCG and let it cycle whole I clean the rest of the rifle and barrel/chamber.
I like it so well I'm tempted to but a second one to dedicate to cleaning brass.
I use purple cleaner to chemically etch aluminum as a chemical priner such as Ospho for zinc or galvanized metal.
Makes paint stick to aluminum really well.
Sounds like the choice of cleaner may be the real problem.
Sounds like the choice of cleaner may be the real problem.
I agree, because as far as I understand, the Ultrasonic itself doesn't actually harm aluminum. But it does accentuate the cleaning power of whatever agent you are using.
I agree, because as far as I understand, the Ultrasonic itself doesn't actually harm aluminum. But it does accentuate the cleaning power of whatever agent you are using.
Here are 3 links that show/describe the damage an ultrasonic cleaner will do to aluminum. And why.
http://www.zenith-ultrasonics.com/ultrasonic_damage.htm
https://laboratoryresource.com.au/?navaction=getitem&id=116
https://youtu.be/ryBVlIoLULk
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Steel and Simple green is ok, but it'll kill any aluminum parts.
Notice I said 'steel'.
Here are 3 links that show/describe the damage an ultrasonic cleaner will do to aluminum. And why.
http://www.zenith-ultrasonics.com/ultrasonic_damage.htm
https://laboratoryresource.com.au/?navaction=getitem&id=116
https://youtu.be/ryBVlIoLULk
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- Aluminum foil is not anodized aluminum, not even close.
- From the article you posted.
Ultrasonic cleaning systems, under certain conditions, have the potential to damage components being cleaned when the material of construction is sensitive to ultrasonic cavitational attack
As a result, microscopic erosion of the surface occurs. This damage is more visible on highly-polished aluminum components, or other soft polished metals.
I maintain the damage to the OP's trigger was from the chemical and the combination of its use with the U/S cleaner, making it more effective. *Not the U/S cleaner.
lahunter57
12-31-15, 18:13
Notice I said 'steel'.
There is a version of simple green that can be used on aluminum. I think it was developed for aviation purposes.
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Coal Dragger
12-31-15, 18:34
Apparently the solution pH level is critical when cleaning aluminum with an ultrasonic. There are solutions available for aluminum, not sure how efficient they are for steel though. Here is an example of an aluminum cylinder head being cleaned in an ultrasonic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5V7D0sfIuE
Black spray paint will fix that lol
Black spray paint will fix that lol
Honestly, this is kind of what I was thinking. Yeah, it kind of sucks that the finish came off, but in the grand scheme of things, the trigger still functions. I'd paint it and roll with it.
Honestly, this is kind of what I was thinking. Yeah, it kind of sucks that the finish came off, but in the grand scheme of things, the trigger still functions. I'd paint it and roll with it.
Versus the $80 cost to replace it, I think that's probably the route I'll be taking. Or I may just leave it like it is and roll on.
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