Ruger M77 possibilities

[The FNG]

I've got a Ruger M77 Hawkeye stainless barrel with a synthetic stock chambered in .30-06. I have a VX-2 mounted on top. Completely stock from the factory.

I would like to make this gun a "precision" style gun. What can/should I do and is it worth it (cost wise) for the potential results?

I understand maybe a better scope and a stock. I am new to precision shooting, but it really interests me so I'm just looking for help to see if my current equipment can get me going.


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[Primus Pilum]

Start over with a new platform, unless your standards are going to be very low.

Do you reload? If not have fun with 30.06
Cost to rechamber would be as much as the rifle cost. Then you also get into LA/SA differences
Stock choices will be minimal with the ruger, and will be very very costly for anything of quality.
Don't even know if any of the DBM systems WOULD work , which would cost even more money.

In order to turn it into a true precision rifle, you are looking at adding atleast 2-3 grand (maybe 4-5K depending on optic) worth of labor and parts and you will end up with a polished ruger with low resale value.

There are alot of quality options out there but you need to define some thing.

What application do you have in mind? 100yards? 500yards? 1000yards? 1600yards? Slowfire? Tactical style shooting? Do you reload? How much money are you looking to spend?

To do this hobby right, you are looking at a min $5K investment up front. This includes entry level gun, entry level optic, bipod/accessories, reloading setup, components, factory ammo, quality LRF, kestrel, magnetospeed and a bunch of other expenses that add up quick. You could piece this stuff together overtime, but you really need the whole shebang to enjoy the sport and not waste time and money while learning.

There are a number of turnkey products out there that can get you started. FN SPR, Tikka CTR, RPR, custom build on a budget (LRI deal) , Howa setup, ect. There is not a precision optic worth owning for less than $1K so buy something of quality with the features you need (FFP, mils, dead on tracking, holdover reticle,ect).

I tell people all the time this before they shoot my guns and decide they want to get into it. There is a serious time and money investment to do it right and its sad when people don't know this upfront. They either spend a bunch of money and quit or don't have the resources to do it right, and are always struggling. It requires discipline, attention to detail and lots of patience.

But when you are able to sit on one mountain ridge and bang a ISPC target on another ridge 1600 yards away every shot, it sure feels badass.

Define your objectives and constraints and I can help you drill down some options.

[The FNG]

essentially what I want to do is hit a 16" gong at 1000yds every shot. Of course, I would like to be able to group shots to some degree at that distance. I have reloading stuff, but as of now, it's just a Dillon 550, so I understand I will need more. I also understand the optics side of things. What I really wanted to know is about the gun itself. The most I have seen someone do to one is put a muzzle device on it and a Timney trigger. Maybe it's for a reason, I don't know, that's why I'm asking.

[Primus Pilum]

essentially what I want to do is hit a 16" gong at 1000yds every shot. Of course, I would like to be able to group shots to some degree at that distance. I have reloading stuff, but as of now, it's just a Dillon 550, so I understand I will need more. I also understand the optics side of things. What I really wanted to know is about the gun itself. The most I have seen someone do to one is put a muzzle device on it and a Timney trigger. Maybe it's for a reason, I don't know, that's why I'm asking.

Well that "may" be doable with your current setup. You are talking 1.6MOA which your rifle MAY shoot with a good tailored handload. Think of .3006 as a longer .308 so you can push the same size bullets a tad faster. The issues will be your barrel. Is it a lighter profile hunting gun? After a couple of shots its going to heat up and start stringing. So you will be able to shoot a handfull of rounds and then rest for 30 mins while it cools. It also may not be freefloated in the barrel channel or it may just be a poor barrel. It really wouldn't be wise to throw money at that gun, because you might as well light it on fire. Ruger is known for some of the not so great shooting factory barrels that are all hammer forged to save on manufacturing costs.

If you really want to shoot 1K economicaly and you have problem reloading, A CTR in .260 + KRG Xray + ARC Rings + Bushnell LRHS 4.5-18x would be a hell of a setup. You could get into that for around $22-2400 and it will shoot with some of the best customs out there. You can also have the barrel rechambed down the road if you find you like this sport and the cost will be minimal becuase it won't need any truing.

You could also do the Ruger RPR in 6.5CM or .243. The 6.5 cm will have more energy as has good cheap factory match ammo availability, while the .243 will be easier to shoot, have less recoil and cost less to reload. $2-2.2K ish with the same rings and optic above

You could also do a cheaper Howa in 6.5CM and shave a few dollars off from the RPR or CTR.

You won't need a LRF if you are shooting KD, but you will need a chrono and maybe a kestral + ballistic app.

Those 3 guns will be the best options on a limited budget, while not really holding you back to much. All will shoot under 1MOA with factory match ammo, which will be good enough if you do your part at 1K.

[mic2377]

If it were me, I would a little bit of prelim testing with the Ruger before I sign it off. I have a very good shooting M77 VT in 25-06 that shoots in the 0.5-0.7 MOA range and suffices quite well for long range shooting.

It wouldn't hurt to drop some decent glass on it and try some load testing. I wouldn't touch trying to rebarrel or restock it, expensive and potentially low yield. You would at least be able to figure out if you want to spend $$$ on the hobby, and you could transfer the optics over to a new rifle. Reloading is the next step and probably just as important as getting another rifle.

[T2C]

essentially what I want to do is hit a 16" gong at 1000yds every shot. Of course, I would like to be able to group shots to some degree at that distance. I have reloading stuff, but as of now, it's just a Dillon 550, so I understand I will need more. I also understand the optics side of things. What I really wanted to know is about the gun itself. The most I have seen someone do to one is put a muzzle device on it and a Timney trigger. Maybe it's for a reason, I don't know, that's why I'm asking.

I would not underestimate what you can load with your Dillon. I've loaded a considerable quantity of .308 and .223 that shot 1/2 MOA groups at 300 yards with my Dillon RL550B. I don't own a 30-06 capable of shooting 1 MOA groups, but I have loaded a lot of consistent shooting ammunition for my M1 Garand and 1903A3 with Dillon equipment.

[Primus Pilum]

If it were me, I would a little bit of prelim testing with the Ruger before I sign it off. I have a very good shooting M77 VT in 25-06 that shoots in the 0.5-0.7 MOA range and suffices quite well for long range shooting.

It wouldn't hurt to drop some decent glass on it and try some load testing. I wouldn't touch trying to rebarrel or restock it, expensive and potentially low yield. You would at least be able to figure out if you want to spend $$$ on the hobby, and you could transfer the optics over to a new rifle. Reloading is the next step and probably just as important as getting another rifle.

For how many shots? What is the barrel profile? 3 or 5 shots is hunting gun territory. Shoot more with a light profile and heat will string your shots all over the place.

There is a reason guns that actually get shot have a heavier profile.

[hombre]

Guns that get shot a lot also tend to be heavier overall to help steady the rifle and mitigate recoil. Current Rugers can actually be very accurate. I have one of their Hawkeye Predators, which has a bit heavier barrel than the standard M77 and it will put three shots under 1/2 inch at 100 yds. It's not a high volume heavy barreled rifle, not set with an adjustable cheek piece and I didn't even try to see what I can do with it for five round groups. I'm ecstatic with it for an off the shelf rifle at a reasonable price.

Also have a M77 300 Win Mag that I am happy with. I'm sure it could be more accurate than I have been with it, cause I fight a slight flinch with it from the bench. Plan to cut back on the bench work with this one, dry fire it a fair amount and just use it mostly for actual hunting. Took a nice elk with it last year and hope to repeat this year.