PDA

View Full Version : Don't paint your Glock with Krylon v. a lesson on removing Krylon



Eurodriver
04-03-16, 10:32
I paint everything. I'm one of those rare gun owners who doesn't care to have his guns looking basic and clean.

I've painted several of my ARs, (https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?5102-Painted-AR-s-show-em-off!/page75) T1s, PVS14s, DBALs, (https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?182217-Steiner-DBAL-Warranty-what-would-you-do) ATPIAL-Cs, - in short, I have a lot of experience painting expensive kit and a few days ago was like "Damn, why don't I have painted Glocks"

So I took one of my Gen4s that I have milled for an RMR and stippled. I figure its already so modified that if I mess it up I won't really care as its married to me.

I thoroughly disassembled and degreased it. I used an FDE base layer. Earth brown, OD green and light green. It turned out like this.

http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w521/6234987u02/IMG_5494_zpsepq3kfhj.jpg
http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w521/6234987u02/IMG_5495_zpso6dks1yk.jpg

I was "content".

But days later the paint still hadn't cured. I could no longer use my holsters as the paint "gummed" in the holster causing tough insertion and extraction. The worst part however was the stickiness on the grip. It was terrible. Still wet paint would peel off with my fingers and hand as I ungripped the gun. Apparently this is a result of the chemicals in Krylon not bonding with the polymer in the Glock's frame. Google turned up that result after many hours of searching.

It had to go, but upon searching how to remove paint from a Glock frame many people claim chemicals will damage the polymer frame. These people seemed like FUDDs though so I went ahead and used Acetone.

The slide looks 100% brand new. It came off very well and only took about 15 minutes.

The frame was not damaged at all by Acetone. I completely stripped it and let it sit in acetone for about 20 minutes multiple times. I would take it out, wipe off the paint, and put it back in. There is still some residual paint left, especially in the stippling but it is no longer sticky which is really all I cared about. I suspect if I had more acetone, more time, and gave a shit I could get all the paint off.

tl;dr

Don't paint your Glock with Krylon - it just doesn't work.

Acetone is a perfectly safe to use on Glocks.

I may call Glock and see if they have replacement FDE frames for sale. If so, I might just start over.

http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w521/6234987u02/Untitled_zpsn3ghwcnn.png

556BlackRifle
04-03-16, 10:49
Wow.... Nice save. Good to know that acetone is safe for Glocks. If I ever paint my Glock, it won't be with Krylon!

rushca01
04-03-16, 10:49
Thanks for sharing your experience. I recently bought a used lower that had been painted and I stripped it back to new with some zinnser paint stripper. I was worried about how it would react to the bcm polymer trigger guard as I didn't want to risk breaking an ear off the lower to take it off. The stripper caused no issues, so whatever polymer bcm uses is safe too.

Back to your glock, have you thought about just having it cerakoted? I know it works with glock frames.

samuse
04-03-16, 12:00
I've had the same thing with AR furniture. Paint just never will dry and makes a sticky mess. I don't have any painted stuff right now. I think I outgrew that nonsense.

Don't let acetone touch a Glock box though!

pinzgauer
04-03-16, 12:40
The trick to safely remove paint from Plastics is brake fluid. Will dissolve most paints immediately and will not harm the plastic.

Don't try to acetone trick on some Plastics however! Not unless you want a pile of goo

Sent from my PRC-104 using phonetics

RHINOWSO
04-03-16, 12:50
Thanks for taking the paint off, that made it extra FUGLY.

Eurodriver
04-03-16, 13:00
Thanks for taking the paint off, that made it extra FUGLY.

And there's that... :big_boss:

Firefly
04-03-16, 13:31
I'm still getting a Glock 34 done up like a Nintendo Zapper.

GTF425
04-03-16, 13:32
Aervoe will work.

domestique
04-03-16, 14:33
I would take a hard look at Brownells Alumahyde...... or a cheap setup to air brush duracoat.

chonathin
04-03-16, 14:54
I've never had issues with Krylon and glock frames, though I live in southern kalifornia where humidity is low and temps are in the 70s right now. I just finished a glock frame this morning with a mix of aervoe and krylon topped with valspar flat clear. I've noticed cure time is significantly longer if I sprayed too heavy of a coat, or the ambient temp was too low. If that happens it can take up to a week to cure. I wait till I cant smell the paint chemicals before use.

I've never painted a glock slide so I cant comment on that.

I stripped the old camo job off yesterday with acetone and I agree in it being safe for the frame. That stuff melts the krylon off in seconds, the aervoe on the other hand takes some elbow grease.

titsonritz
04-03-16, 16:36
I'm still getting a Glock 34 done up like a Nintendo Zapper.

Would that be in original gray or the re-released orange?

Airhasz
04-03-16, 16:53
An experience painter always shoots a sample of paint in a hidden area to check for compatibility, especially when painting plastics, fiberglass, etc. I use a adhesion promoter such as bulldog before spraying paint on such surfaces.
Several light coats while letting surface dry between each will allow the solvents to gas out and not get trapped between coats. A simple hairdryer is all that is needed to dry paint in between spraying light coats on small projects.

domestique
04-03-16, 17:23
Would that be in original gray or the re-released orange?

OG.

http://www.glocktalk.com/attachments/12814798_1066348440095410_8142468186033111999_n-jpg.274343/

jpmuscle
04-03-16, 17:40
That things is so great

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

tgizzard
04-03-16, 17:54
OG.

http://www.glocktalk.com/attachments/12814798_1066348440095410_8142468186033111999_n-jpg.274343/

Just don't accidentally use that while playing duck hunt! :suicide:

deleteyourselph
04-03-16, 18:26
Coolest pistol ever!

Big A
04-03-16, 19:15
That things is so great

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160404/69704a2eaf505b03fb79f526bcc79ab3.gif

williejc
04-08-16, 20:42
I buy brake parts cleaner in spray cans for degreasing and always get the non chlorinated version which is kinder to plastics. I sometimes wonder if a careless shopper might by error buy carb cleaner which is sold in the same area. It's almost guaranteed to melt something that you wish to remain solid.

bigghoss
04-08-16, 21:31
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160404/69704a2eaf505b03fb79f526bcc79ab3.gif

Probably his funniest episode ever.

tigershilone
04-09-16, 18:53
The trick to safely remove paint from Plastics is brake fluid. Will dissolve most paints immediately and will not harm the plastic.

Don't try to acetone trick on some Plastics however! Not unless you want a pile of goo

Sent from my PRC-104 using phonetics

Whatever you do, DO NOT use chlorinated brake cleaner. If you miss cleaning up any and it gets superheated it releases what is basically a nerve gas (phosgene if I recall right).

I heard about this story in a aircraft maintenance circular while doing a internet based tig welding course and I thought "what BS, internet hokum strikes again". Turns out it was true, welder guy normally used alcohol to clean parts prior to welding, didnt have any, used what was available which was chlorinated brake cleaner. Failed to notice a small puddle of it left behind in the parts to be welded and started welding.

After a few minutes, he started getting dizzy and took a break and noticed his hands shaking. Turns out he wasn't shaky, they were mini seizures and the damage was permanent. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene

As to EURO's glock, hell yeah, paint it, but use the right stuff. Cerakote "C" series paints work wonderfully on plastic glock parts.