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View Full Version : Pros and Cons of AR500 Armor and Ceramic SAPI/ ESAPI plates



Wooohah
06-10-16, 16:39
First off, i'd like to introduce myself, as i'm still new to the M4 Carbine forums.
I've come here from Facebook, where I've run a few discussion groups for guns/ gear. I've elected to come here based on the censorship that Facebook absolutely loves to regularly hand out.
Using the search function, I don't think there is an informational thread for the pros and cons of AR500/ ESAPI yet, If there is i apologize.
I'm always up to learn new things about gear, as well as help people and share knowledge i have personally picked up or experienced.
These are the pros and cons from a file i have personally written that is in one of my Facebook groups. I get asked what kind of armor one should get, very regularly and got tired of repeating myself.
I see very often people saying how bad AR500 is or how bad ESAPI plates are, there are compelling arguments for both sides.
I aim to make this unbiased, and to list only the pros and cons. Therefore whoever is reading the thread can pick which one they want based on their needs or threat assessments.

I am not being paid by anyone to write this, this is with the intent of sharing information to help the community.
If you see something that you find is incorrect, please point it out and let me know. I've had a few professional firearms instructors confirm my post as valid.
If you have something to add, please let me know and offer a brief explanation.
Keep in mind this is still a general list, I have not explored the realm of hybrid armor just yet, and do not want to speak on behalf of that without personal knowledge. Therefore this does not include plates such as the Velocity Systems ULV 7.62 MSC Level 4.

Note: This comparison is between AR500 and level IV ICW ESAPI Plates and Level IV Standalone SAPI plates.
(CATI Armor, AR500 Armor Level 3+ etc. Vs Ceradyne APM2 ESAPI (L4 ICW), Velocity Systems Level 4 standalone SAPI, Paraclete Level 4 standalone SAPI)
This means this does not include Pistol threat AR500, Velocity systems ULV, Hybrid plates or the older triple curve SAPI plates or the old level 3 M80 SAPI plates or XSAPI plates.

*Important to note*
ESAPI plates are always to be used in conjunction with soft armor to reach its maximum threat protection capabilities of Level IV. The minimum threat level of soft armor one should use is IOTV spec, which is rated for 9mm 126gr. If level 2 or 2A soft armor meets such requirements, it can be used. If soft armor is not used, then the plate is rated level 3.
Officially, ESAPI plates are not NIJ rated, but are rated via Military-Spec, as most ESAPI plates are not available to civilians (With the exception of BulletProofME plates).
Military Spec for ESAPI plates is being able to stop one round of .30-06 AP just like NIJ Level IV, but it is also rated to stop a SECOND round at least 60% of the time. Also has to pass a drop test of being loaded with 10 pounds, loaded on an arm and dropped 4 feet onto a hard flat surface, such as a concrete floor.
The SAPI plates I talk about here are going to be standalone level 4 only. Which means it does not require IOTV spec soft armor to make it level 4.
Keep in mind you cannot have a standalone ESAPI plate, if it is standalone, it is a SAPI plate.

*NIJ ratings to note*
(Quoted from: https://www.ncjrs.gov/pdffiles1/nij/189633.pdf)
NIJ Level III:
Protects against 7.62mm full metal jacket bullets. (US Military M80) at 150 grains, impacting at a velocity of 2,750FPS or less. Also provides protection against threats such as .223 Rem, 5.56x45mm FMJ, 30 Carbine FMJ and 12GA rifled slugs.
Rated to stop 3 rounds of 5.56x45mm
NIJ Level IV:
Protects against everything NIJ Level I-III covers.
Protects against .30-06 armor piercing bullets (US Military 30-06 AP-M2) at 166 grains, impacting at a velocity of 2,850FPS or less. Only officially NIJ rated to protect against one round of 30-06 AP-M2, as well as smaller threats. However, depending on the model/ mfg of the armor in question, it may be multi-hit capable. (Granted the round does not hit in the same place)
*Please note that the Level III+ rating AR500 manufacturers list is not an official NIJ rating*
AR500 is officially rated to NIJ Level III, they write III+ to distinguish that it can stop M855 (5.56x45mm green tip)
*US Military Spec E-SAPI rating to note* (Not official NIJ rating)
Must stop one round of .30-06 AP-M2 fired at 2,850 FPS or less, and stop a second round 60% of the time.
Must survive a drop test, being strapped with 10 pounds and dropped at 4 feet onto concrete flat surface.

ESAPI (Level IV ICW)- Pros
>Normally will be of a lighter weight than rifle threat steel armor
>(ESAPI plates without soft armor) will have a higher threat rating, (rated L3) plates will stop at least 3 rounds of 5.56x45mm or a round of 7.62x54 M80 Ball and higher velocity rounds. (L3 = 1 round of 7.62mm FMJ 150fr @ 2750+50 FPS)
>(ESAPI Plates with soft armor) Will have a higher threat rating, (Rated L4) plates will stop one round of 30-06 AP-M2. But are not always multi-hit rated, this depends on the manufacturer. However most will likely stop a few rounds of 5.56x45mm.
>Normally will be multi-curve, fits your body better, more comfortable.
>Will not spall (Create shrapnel upon impact).

SAPI (Standalone Level IV) pros-
>Some versions are boyuant, there are special standalone SAPI plates that also have a dual purpose for use as floatation plates. (These are much thicker)
>Will not require soft armor to be level 4.
>Does not create spalling upon impact of a round (Shrapnel of the round exploding)
>Normally of a lighter weight than AR500 armor, however standalone SAPI plates are heavier (Slightly) than ESAPI plates
>Normally will be multi-curve, fits your body better and is more comfortable.
>Protects against the highest NIJ Threat level of 30-06 AP-M2 rounds at 2,850 FPS.

ESAPI (Level IV ICW)- Cons
> Will require 9mm 126gr IOTV Spec soft armor at a minimum to make it level IV. Otherwise it is level 3.
>Expensive (If you go new/ non surplus). A set of level IV ESAPI plates can be $400+, Surplus ESAPI plates go for $250.
>Slightly fragile, cannot drop them or throw them around like AR500, therefore they may need to be replaced after months of *Hard use* (Belly flopping on rocks regularly, but unless you’re deployed, you don’t get that problem)
>Rated to stop a single round of 30-06 AP-M2 at 2,850 FPS and a second round at 60% of the time. (Not tested with M855 or M80 however *should* reasonably stop a few rounds if not hitting in the same place, and depends on distance.)

SAPI (Level IV Standalone)- Cons
>Expensive, Level IV Standalone plates are often $400 a set.
>Slightly fragile, cannot drop them or throw them around like AR500, therefore they may need to be replaced after months of *Hard use* (Belly flopping on rocks regularly, but unless youre deployed, you don’t get that problem) SAPI plates are more fragile than ESAPI plates, as SAPI plates are normally made of Ceramic, while military issued ESAPI plates are made of Boron Carbide.
>Not multi-hit rated, NIJ Level 4 certification does not require a plate to stop multiple rounds, however depending on the manufacturer, it may stop more than one round. (It will be listed) (But is still likely to stop a few rounds of M855 or M80 given it does not land in the same spot, and depending on distance).


AR500- Pros
>Cheap, very affordable
>Extremely Durable, belly flopping onto rocks and throwing it across the room or using it as a hammer... will be no problem.
>Reusable, Since AR500 can take a massive gang beating, if you are using these as part of a survival kit in a SHTF situation, if you have the equipment to recoat the plates with spall liner, it is reusable.
*Worth noting that AR500 armor can take upwards 150 rounds of M855 fired from a 16” AR-15.*
AR500- Cons
>Spalling is a huge issue, unless you are getting a double coating of Line-X or Rhino Liner. The bullet hitting the steel surface will cause it to literally explode and cause metal shards to fly into various body parts (Depending on your body position), your legs, arms, neck/ chin, feet, hands...
>Blunt Force Trauma, some good spall liners will stop about 10 rounds before spalling, however getting hit with a rifle round is literally like getting hit in the chest with a sledgehammer, full force. The energy transfer of steel is terrible, it goes right through the steel (The energy not the round), your armor may be capable of stopping 50 rounds... but your body will start having problems such as internal bleeding, broken ribs, stoppage of heart after a few rounds.
>Weight, extremely heavy, Much heavier than Ceramic plates
>Physics of steel, high velocity rounds will cut through AR500 steel like butter, its rated to stop 7.62x54r, however 5.56 fired out of a bolt action rifle or anything high velocity at about 2700? FPS will penetrate it like nothing.
>If you fall in the water, god have mercy, and I hope your carrier better be releasable, because you’re sinking like an anchor.
>Chance of ricochet. Being steel armor, if rounds hit it at a certain angle, it may deflect off the armor and either hit the wearer, or someone around them.

EXCEPTIONS-
-Ultra-Light Polyethylene Plates, this is made of a different material than the plates mentioned above, however is worth mentioning, they are significantly lighter than most Ceramic plates, however they are rated for Level 3, which is not the same as AR500, which is listed as Level 3+. Level 3+ does not officially exist on the NIJ spectrum, but is listed to note that it will stop M855.
Polyethylene plates are made of a different material than AR500, therefore subject to different physics.
It should be noted that Polyethylene plates are NOT rated to stop M855 (5.56x45mm Green tip).
Expensive, just about as expensive as a good set of Ceramic plates, but some people prefer these, because they may not see the threat of AP rounds.
Note: These plates do not perform well under extreme heat or extreme cold, under heat they may deform or melt. (under -15 deg F, and over 150 deg F) Prolonged exposure under the desert sun, or sitting in the snow in subzero temperatures may deform the plates.
Source:
http://www.bulletproofme.com/RP-Level-4-Stand-Alone.html

*ATTENTION*
PLEASE. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND WEAR SOFT ARMOR OR TRAUMA PADDING BEHIND YOUR PLATES. DO SO EVEN IF YOU HAVE STANDALONE LEVEL4 PLATES.
THE BLUNT FORCE TRAUMA OF A RIFLE ROUND HITTING YOUR CHEST IS NO JOKE.
EVEN WITH LEVEL IV ICW PLATES, GETTING HIT IN THE CHEST WITH A .30-06 ROUND MAY BREAK RIBS AND CAUSE INTERNAL BLEEDING.

Thank you to User: Defaultmp3 of M4Carbine.net for helping me add information and correct some points that i have made incorrectly.

Defaultmp3
06-10-16, 17:15
Note: This comparison is between AR500 and the common ESAPI plates rated Level 3 or Level 4. (CATI Armor, AR500 Armor Level 3+ etc Vs Ceradyne APM2 ESAPI Level IV, Velocity Systems Level 4 standalone, Paraclete Level 4 standalone)
This means this does not include Pistol threat AR500, Velocity systems ULV, Hybrid plates or the older triple curve SAPI plates.ESAPI means something. The vast majority of ceramic plates on the market available to civilians are not ESAPI; in fact, I can only think of a single source of ESAPI-rated plates to civilians that is readily available, bulletproofme.com. Nor are ESAPI plates rated NIJ level IV, though they might meet the specifications, as they were never submitted for NIJ testing. Any standalone plate, by definition, cannot be an ESAPI plate. Rather, many vendors will refer to their plates as ESAPI merely to designate that they are cut to the same shape as an actual issued ESAPI plate.

Normally will have a higher threat rating, Level IV is rated to stop one round of .308 AP-M2 ,or multiple rounds of 5.56 green tip, etc.NIJ level IV means it is tested to protect against a single round of .30-06 M2 AP; the current issue 7.62×51mm AP is M993, and is a far more punishing round, and a simple NIJ level IV rating is not any kind of guarantee of protection (though NIJ level IV is fairly likely to provide adequate protection against the older M61). Nor does an NIJ level IV rating guarantee protection against multiple rounds of M855, even if in practice it very well might; NIJ level IV at its very core does not require multi-hit capabilities, which creates the seemingly paradoxical situation that an NIJ level IV plate may very well fail to meet NIJ level III standards, which require multi-hit. Also, there are plenty of NIJ level III ceramic plates, along with special threat plates that do not meet any of the NIJ standards, yet are considered high quality armor, and are in DoD use.

If not standalone, it will require level 3A Soft armor to make it Level IVThere are plenty of soft armor backers that do not meet NIJ level IIIa standards, yet still provide proper support to allow an ICW plate to work properly. IIRC, the IOTV soft armor inserts are not tested to any NIJ standards, and are only tested up to 9mm 124 gr., which is equivalent to NIJ level IIa or II.

Expensive (If you go new/ non surplus). A set of standalone level IV ESAPI plates can be $400+, Surplus ESAPI plates go for $250.Cheap NIJ level IV ceramic plates abound; at one point, Tyr was blowing out Paraclete LCTT-IV plates for less than 200 USD a pair.

Physics of steel, high velocity rounds will cut through AR500 steel like butter, its rated to stop 7.62x54rI would think that would depend heavily on the 7.62×54mmR round being used; I would think that API B32 could potentially defeat any of the normal AR500 plates out there.

-Ultra-Light Polyethylene Plates, This is made of a different material than the plates mentioned above, however is worth mentioning, they are significantly lighter than most Ceramic plates, however they are rated for Level 3+, which is the same as AR500.The vast majority of pure UHMWPE plates are marketed as purely "level III", not "level III+". UHMWPE plates can defeat most common threats CONUS, with the huge exception of M855; there is no such thing as an NIJ level III+, but vendors use that designation to indicate that their plates can defeat M855 (which are generally a ceramic/UHMWPE hybrid construction). This is one of the big "gotchas" with the whole armor game, where people will see a lightweight NIJ level III pure UHMWPE plate and think it's awesome, and not realize that it provides little protection against one of the most common 5.56×45mm rounds CONUS.

Expensive, just about as expensive as a good set of Ceramic plates, but some people prefer these, because they may not see the threat of AP rounds.Almost nobody operating CONUS will see that threat, LE included.

Note: These plates do not perform well under extreme heat or extreme cold, under heat they may deform or melt.Do you have a source for that? UHMWPE soft armor has this issue, which is one of the reasons they do poorly against contact shots, but UHMWPE hard plates appear to not suffer from environmental extremes.

Wooohah
06-10-16, 17:49
Im still learning to navigate the forum, so im not completely sure how to "quote" things like you are right now. So im going to copy and paste.

"ESAPI means something. The vast majority of ceramic plates on the market available to civilians are not ESAPI; in fact, I can only think of a single source of ESAPI-rated plates to civilians that is readily available, bulletproofme.com. Nor are ESAPI plates rated NIJ level IV, though they might meet the specifications, as they were never submitted for NIJ testing. Any standalone plate, by definition, cannot be an ESAPI plate. Rather, many vendors will refer to their plates as ESAPI merely to designate that they are cut to the same shape as an actual issued ESAPI plate."

Thank you, i think this is a miscommunication on my end, im failing to/ incorrectly distinguishing between ESAPI plates (Military issue, such as Ceradyne AMP2, which can be L4 ICW) And the Level IV Standalone SAPI plates.

"NIJ level IV means it is tested to protect against a single round of .30-06 M2 AP; the current issue 7.62×51mm AP is M993, and is a far more punishing round, and a simple NIJ level IV rating is not any kind of guarantee of protection (though NIJ level IV is fairly likely to provide adequate protection against the older M61). Nor does an NIJ level IV rating guarantee protection against multiple rounds of M855, even if in practice it very well might; NIJ level IV at its very core does not require multi-hit capabilities, which creates the seemingly paradoxical situation that an NIJ level IV plate may very well fail to meet NIJ level III standards, which require multi-hit."

Thank you, again a mistake on my end. Officially L4 is rated to stop one round 30-06 AP 166gr @2850+50f/s. But i likely should mention that most will stop a few rounds of 5.56, granted it does not hit in the same place twice, however is not guaranteed via NIJ standards.

"There are plenty of soft armor backers that do not meet NIJ level IIIa standards, yet still provide proper support to allow an ICW plate to work properly. IIRC, the IOTV soft armor inserts are not tested to any NIJ standards, and are only tested up to 9mm 124 gr., which is equivalent to NIJ level IIa or II."

Officially I suppose level 3A makes it a safe bet that it will make it L4 ICW for certain, but thank you, i should note that some level 2 armor that stops 9mm 124gr will work as well.

"Cheap NIJ level IV ceramic plates abound; at one point, Tyr was blowing out Paraclete LCTT-IV plates for less than 200 USD a pair."

Yes, I saw that a while ago actually, I was in a tight situation with money at the time... i had friends who bought 6 sets. However, those don't come around all the time.

"I would think that would depend heavily on the 7.62×54mmR round being used; I would think that API B32 could potentially defeat any of the normal AR500 plates out there."

Yes, i should mention officially the rating is similar, however different materials in the plates means different physics when it comes to a round hitting it. Actually 5.56 fired at a higher velocity can pierce AR500 no problem.

"The vast majority of pure UHMWPE plates are marketed as purely "level III", not "level III+". UHMWPE plates can defeat most common threats CONUS, with the huge exception of M855; there is no such thing as an NIJ level III+, but vendors use that designation to indicate that their plates can defeat M855 (which are generally a ceramic/UHMWPE hybrid construction). This is one of the big "gotchas" with the whole armor game, where people will see a lightweight NIJ level III pure UHMWPE plate and think it's awesome, and not realize that it provides little protection against one of the most common 5.56×45mm rounds CONUS."

I shall change that, thank you. I will distinguish L3 and "L3+"

"Almost nobody operating CONUS will see that threat, LE included."

Correct, but not everyone is CONUS and there are places in the US that encounter scolding heat or cold.

"Do you have a source for that? UHMWPE soft armor has this issue, which is one of the reasons they do poorly against contact shots, but UHMWPE hard plates appear to not suffer from environmental extremes."

Yes i do, BulletproofME has it listed in their information for Poly plates. I should cite that as a source.
http://www.bulletproofme.com/RP-Polyethylene.html

Defaultmp3
06-10-16, 18:02
Forgot to address a couple more:

>Spalling is a huge issue, unless you are getting a double coating of Line-X or Rhino Liner. The bullet hitting the steel surface will cause it to literally explode and cause metal shards to fly into various body parts (Depending on your body position), your legs, arms, neck/ chin, feet, hands...There are other alternatives to reduce spalling; steel armor has been in use for quite some time in some units whenever very thin armor was need for low profile protection, and they tended to go with spall liners, which are generally made of Dyneema, Kevlar, etc. You can make a ghetto spall liner of sorts by placing a soft armor backer/panel in front of your steel armor.


Physics of steel, high velocity rounds will cut through AR500 steel like butter, its rated to stop 7.62x54r, however 5.56 fired out of a bolt action rifle or anything high velocity at about 2700? FPS will penetrate it like nothing.Just for information's sake, there are now some ultra-hard steel plates that claim to be able to take M193; I've heard the AR680 plates have not lived up to that claim, and I've yet to see any reviews of the TenCate Cratus 8075SA/8100SA/8125SA. TenCate being a large manufacturer with DoD contracts, I'm inclined to think that their claims are worth a little more, but until someone can proves it works, I'd take the claim with a grain of salt. Still, the stats on those armor are pretty crazy, with the TenCate Cratus 8075SA being rated to defeat M193, M855, M80, and 7.62×39mm ball, triple curved, 0.20" thick, 6.25 lbs., and ~275 USD a plate (this is for the 10"×12" ESAPI-cut).


Yes i do, BulletproofME has it listed in their information for Poly plates. I should cite that as a source.
http://www.bulletproofme.com/RP-Polyethylene.htmlYou are correct, I misremembered my source:

Despite its drawbacks in soft armor format, in hard/rigid applications, this material does not show as many weaknesses. For reasons that are still not fully understood, the heat tolerance of PE hard armors is much better than soft armors (showing a danger zone of 195-200 degrees F rather than 180 F). This may be due to the typically thicker profile, thus providing a larger thermal mass to heat (taking longer and requiring more ambient heat to achieve irreversible denaturing). Also, contact shots are not as likely to have such a high risk of penetration due to the physical properties of a rigid defense compared to a flexible.Source: https://drmorgear.wordpress.com/2014/03/11/body-armor-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly-part-viii-rigid-uhmwpe/

If you get a chance, I encourage you to read the Body Armor: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly series on https://drmorgear.wordpress.com. Most of what is written there squares with everything I've learned elsewhere about personal armor. Sadly, personal armor is a hugely confusing state of affairs, and it's quite easy for people to get mislead and confused, especially considered the amount of misinformation the snake oil peddlers put out.

Wooohah
06-10-16, 18:21
"There are other alternatives to reduce spalling; steel armor has been in use for quite some time in some units whenever very thin armor was need for low profile protection, and they tended to go with spall liners, which are generally made of Dyneema, Kevlar, etc. You can make a ghetto spall liner of sorts by placing a soft armor backer/panel in front of your steel armor."

Correct, one of my friends asked about "kevlar pillowcases". Since spalling not only goes outwards but also to the sides, i feel if a round hit near the borders of a steel plate, the outward spalling would be covered by the kevlar sheet on top, but the sideways spalling would not, which technically is the most dangerous and has the highest risk of going into your arms/ legs/ chin.

"Just for information's sake, there are now some ultra-hard steel plates that claim to be able to take M193; I've heard the AR680 plates have not lived up to that claim, and I've yet to see any reviews of the TenCate Cratus 8075SA/8100SA/8125SA. TenCate being a large manufacturer with DoD contracts, I'm inclined to think that their claims are worth a little more."

Yeah this is *for now* only on AR500, I don't have enough information to talk about AR680 as i think its relatively still rather new. Eventually theres probably going to be more tests on AR680 like there has been with AR500.

And absolutely i will read that series on armor, im always actively trying to learn more. Theres a lot of misconceptions about armor, lots of different kinds and some misleading marketing. I really hope that eventually someone will release an in depth guide on armor.

Thanks for your help! Absolutely appreciate it, and i will make some edits to this post right now

Wooohah
06-10-16, 20:33
Edited the post!
I've read it over, i *think* it should be much better now, a lot more clarification and specifications on the SAPI/ ESAPI plates.
Thank you, again for the help. Its greatly appreciated and today i have learned a lot of new information.

Inkslinger
06-10-16, 21:22
Spartan armor has a lvl3+ plate made of AR550 that defeats M193 & M855. The issue with AR680 is that it is so hard that it becomes brittle and cracks when some rounds hit it.

Wooohah
06-10-16, 21:33
I don't think i said in the post that AR500 can't defeat M855/M193...?

But AR500 can take like 200 rounds of M855.

Im not completely sure about the differences between 500/550/680 (apart from hardness) just yet, but i was skeptical about 680 being too brittle and not taking as many rounds.

cctroupe11
06-11-16, 09:35
Anyone had any experience with the SKD tac level 4 SAPI plates? They're price is extremely affordable, so I'm thinking about getting some since they're a bit lighter than AR500 and I won't have to worry about spalling.

Wooohah
06-11-16, 17:08
I personally do not. when researching plates its best to view unbiased "torture" or shooting tests, as well as user reviews of weight and feel.
Remember user reviews that do not involve shooting or extended use, i personally think do not hold much weight when it comes to plates.
Because the main function of plates is to protect you from being shot.

Heres Esstac shooting SKD plates:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=gs3ZMoB3msE

But i do not know of any other tests, i would research further.

mkmckinley
06-11-16, 22:37
It doesn't seem like the Tencate 8075s are for sale anywhere. Have they actually been released?

Wooohah
06-11-16, 23:29
It doesn't seem like the Tencate 8075s are for sale anywhere. Have they actually been released?

I don't believe the 8075 model's have been released yet, but i could be wrong. Aren't they rather new? Released sometime last year?

Defaultmp3
06-12-16, 08:14
It doesn't seem like the Tencate 8075s are for sale anywhere. Have they actually been released?Chase Tactical carries quite a bit of the Cratus line, possible all of them, though they list them under their own label, despite merely drop shipping them. Here is the 8075: https://www.chasetactical.com/shop/bd-ten-8075sa-srt-ultra-thin-multi-curve-alloy-steel-rifle-plates-super-multi-strike-copy/