View Full Version : Best way to remove spray paint from AR
Eurodriver
06-28-16, 16:53
I've got an AR that's been painted like a million times. I'd like to remove the paint but I've tried this before with acetone and it was a pain in the ass. I quite literally want to just hose the gun down and be done with it, not deal with any of the bs scrubbing.
I am not concerned about damaging the furniture, but it does have a KMR that I'd prefer not to damage the finish of.
I don't mind disassembling it the gun.
Does anyone have actual experience removing spray paint? I want the easiest method possible.
glock21xxx
06-28-16, 16:57
I've got an AR that's been painted like a million times. I'd like to remove the paint but I've tried this before with acetone and it was a pain in the ass. I quite literally want to just hose the gun down and be done with it, not deal with any of the bs scrubbing.
I am not concerned about damaging the furniture, but it does have a KMR that I'd prefer not to damage the finish of.
I don't mind disassembling it the gun.
Does anyone have actual experience removing spray paint? I want the easiest method possible.
I've used that all natural citrus based paint stripper. I believe it's still solvent based so I'm not sure how natural it is, but it works! Wear heavy chemical resistant gloves, well ventilated area and for gods sake man, don't get it on your skin.
I sprayed it on - let it sit for 10 minutes - scrubbed with a toothbrush to get all the nooks and crannies and repeated until clean. Took about 2 passes total - rinse with water and voila!
Citrastrip works, but requires time to scrub it off with a toothbrush in the crevices.
On rifles with a lot of paint, I have had better results with MEK.
Eurodriver
06-28-16, 18:11
Thanks for all the tips. I prefer a spray on even if MEK works better. I am not sure if it differs based on types of paint but I have used brake cleaner with literally zero effect whatsoever. I am using Rustoleum and Krylon paints.
I don't mind scrubbing a little bit, I just don't want to be doing the acetone dance where you pour it on, scrub it, it evaporates, pour more on, scrub it, etc etc. That was miserable.
jethroUSMC
06-28-16, 18:20
Citrastrip works, but requires time to scrub it off with a toothbrush in the crevices.
On rifles with a lot of paint, I have had better results with MEK.
MEK works but that's some seriously nasty stuff. That crap will cause cancer in robots.
Citristrip or acetone will work fine. Use gloves for both and in a well ventilated area....preferably outside.
Thanks for all the tips. I prefer a spray on even if MEK works better. I am not sure if it differs based on types of paint but I have used brake cleaner with literally zero effect whatsoever. I am using Rustoleum and Krylon paints.
I don't mind scrubbing a little bit, I just don't want to be doing the acetone dance where you pour it on, scrub it, it evaporates, pour more on, scrub it, etc etc. That was miserable.
Not the water based stuff. The bad for you stuff. Best way to tell is how many states can it NOT be sold in. Make sure to re oil ASAP.
I've unpainted a bunch of ARs. Sell it cheap and build/buy another one. The paint will never come all the way off. It'll always look dusty at best. Some parts can NOT be unpainted. The finish on the KMR is done. It comes off easier than the paint.
Yes. MEK requires precautions in large amounts, but its not THAT bad. I'd rather be around MEK than some of the additatves in motor oil and transmission fluid that people are using for firearm lube. I've only had to use it once, on an M1A stock that was coated in 3-4 coats of automotive primer.
The citrastrip goo applied and left to sit for an hour or so will do what you want, I think. It will stay in where you put it. If the paint was well applied (as in good surface prep) it may require longer and/or multiple applications.
Also, with any chemical be careful of rubber. Most of these will damage rubber in one manner or another.
Outlander Systems
06-28-16, 19:38
MEK.
I unpainted some shit this weekend, but I wouldn't have DARED use MEK on it.
On a rifle? Do it!
If anyone local to you does Soda blasting, that shit is incredible.
ETA: damndest thing...I soaked my PVS-14 in acetone to remove the paint, and all I've got left are some weird electronics, metal rings, and glass!?!
WTAF!?
Averageman
06-28-16, 19:41
There used to be some Military stuff that was called "Dry Cleaning Solvent", it was very good. We got it in 55 gallon drums I think.
We didn't but any prudent person would take precautions with this stuff, gloves goggles etc.
Break Cleaner on steroids.
I've unpainted a bunch of ARs. Sell it cheap and build/buy another one. The paint will never come all the way off. It'll always look dusty at best. Some parts can NOT be unpainted. The finish on the KMR is done. It comes off easier than the paint.
I agree......unless your going to repaint a different color it then it doesn't matter. The only other option is to sandblast it, but then you have to retreat the entire rifle.
Eurodriver
06-28-16, 20:35
I've unpainted a bunch of ARs. Sell it cheap and build/buy another one. The paint will never come all the way off. It'll always look dusty at best. Some parts can NOT be unpainted. The finish on the KMR is done. It comes off easier than the paint.
Well, it's a registered SBR soooo ;)
If the KMR paint comes off I'll just hit it with flat black. Not the end of the world I suppose. Or an FDE? Could play with that.
My main issue with the paint is because this is shot almost exclusively suppressed when the oil and gas oozes out and then gets wiped off the paint goes with it. I'm sick of painting it over and over again.
Maybe I Can I send it in to be cerakoted? Will the KMR take cerakote?
Will the KMR take cerakote?
Yes, very well. Most good applicators are going to bead blast it all first before cerakote so you can give it to them as is.
If the KMR paint comes off I'll just hit it with flat black.What does KMR mean?
What does KMR mean?
BCM KMR handguard
If you've got a compressor, build a soda blaster for nearly nothing
http://www.garagenight.tv/diy-soda-blasting-build-your-own-rig-cheap/
Eurodriver
06-28-16, 21:02
Does anyone know any good cerakote peoples?
I have only decided to remove spray paint once, and the experience lasted 15 minutes. I read all of the forums, searched, googled, bought all of the various removal chemicals. It was so baked on to the barrel that it just wasn't worth the time to screw with it. I'm happy.
When I would sonic wash my LCP, the paint that I put on the front sight post always came off.
Take the KMR off and try it. If it works, break the gun down and do the rest.
Does anyone know any good cerakote peoples?
Out of state but Jim Carollo at Specdive Tactical in Alexandria VA is awesome - https://specdive.com
If you want the easy route you could probably pay the cerakote guy to remove it for you.
I've had very good luck with Motsenbocker's graffiti remover. It works best if you let it soak for hours and stay wet for hours. Put the rifle in plastic bag to prevent evaporation, hose it down real good and let it soak 2-3 hours. Make sure it stays wet the whole time. Then use a stiff nylon brush (like a grout scrubber brush) and it comes right up, and wipe the chunks off with a towel. It doesn't have fumes either, is water based, and you can probably find it at Home Depot. That being said, you are looking at a few hours of soaking, and about an hour of brushing. You won't get 100% of the paint out with any chemical, the paint stays trapped slightly in the pores of the finish. But it will look 98%.
MEK is not that bad. Do it outside, wear gloves. Done. Remove all plastic, and soak it overnight and it should come right off. It's been removed from the carcinogen list.
The easiest I've seen is carbon tetrachloride, but that stuff IS nasty. And good luck finding it.
Eurodriver
06-28-16, 21:33
MEK is not that bad. Do it outside, wear gloves. Done. Remove all plastic, and soak it overnight and it should come right off. It's been removed from the carcinogen list.
The easiest I've seen is carbon tetrachloride, but that stuff IS nasty. And good luck finding it.
Soak the entire lower,upper in MEK overnight???
I think I'm just gonna go the citrustrip route.
Goof Off has worked well for me. get it on the part and wipe up after a few seconds. takes some patience but is controllable unlike spraying the whole gun in whatever.
tigershilone
06-28-16, 22:23
How badly do you want to clean up a pile of toxic ooze emitting fumes of questionable nature? ANY of your chemical strippers are going to make a mess that you have to deal with. Then you still have to do a great prep of the surface for any coating to stick properly.
I'd just send it out to good cerakote guy and let them deal with the clean up and surface prep. They will 1)clean it, 2)acetone bath it, 3)media blast it, 4)out-gas it (heat bake that drives out impregnated oils) and repeat steps 1-4 until no impurities are left. Sometimes it only takes one cycle. I've had a couple parts that took 4 cycles to clean up for a proper surface prep.
Get it coated with a "H" series(heat cured) cerakote color of your choice, you'll be ahead in the end not dealing with chemicals and approximately 2-4 hours surface prep time and dis-assembly of the weapon. "C" series(air cure) is way better than regular paint, but it requires a week to cure before you can assemble the parts and is still not as strong as the "H" series which can be immediately re-assembled after parts have cooled from the oven. The exception here is that "C" series deals with extreme heat better and is the preferred coating on a suppressor.
Cerakote really isn't a do it yourself product as it requires a lot of different equipment to do properly and the the cerakote itself is pretty nasty. The results are awesome if done correctly and there is a reason you pay somebody who knows what they are doing.
NIC industries website (Cerakote parent company) has a list of applicators that are certified in almost every state and any applicator worth their salt should have a portfolio of their past work to show you.
I've dealt with MEthyethylketone(MEK), MEKPeroxide, M6, tricloreothane, FR primer, acetone and a number of other nasty smelling chemicals in the aviation world. It's worth just paying the $$. Last time I looked a single color cerakote "H" application was running between $100-$200.
elephantrider
06-28-16, 22:26
Have you looked at Aervoe "Waterworks" paint/coating remover? I haven't tried it myself, but have seen a few people on TOS use it to de-Aervoe an AR. If it will take the Aervoe spray paint off, it should also remove any Rustoleum or Krylon spray paint. I believe you hit it with the "waterworks," wait, and then you can just wash the paint off with water.
As for a suitable paint for your KMR, should the factory coating come off. You could use Brownells Aluma-hyde II if you want to DIY it. The Aluma-hyde is resistant to solvents.
Grant from G&R has been cerakoting the KMR rails since they were released. I believe he consulted with BCM on an acceptable method to cerakote the original Mag-alloy KMRs. Not sure if he will take on customer supplied parts, or if he is only coating and re-selling BCM supplied KMRs.
nj0ywatch1np0rn
06-29-16, 00:15
The orange stripper works well just requires some elbow grease as mentioned.
Only thing I'm worried about is paint on my t1. Will it damage the coating on the lenses if it gets on it?
Fwiw I've had good luck with the DIY air cure cerakote products. Not as tough as the baked on variety but pretty damn good.
When I was a military armorer we had a bunch of guys come back from deployment with painted rifles. Judicious application of Mogas out back took care of everything
I've never been able to get an Aimpoint to unpaint perfectly. The anodizing has just enough roughness to really hold the paint and it won't come out completely.
boombotz401
06-29-16, 07:56
Id send it in for cerakote as is, won't look right after the paints removed.
There going to blast it anyways so it's not worth the scrub time.
It's tuff stuff and won't come off like the rattle can jobs
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lesson learned, unless there's an operational need to paint a gun, leave it alone. Everyone has different thoughts on this, just mine. I've seen plenty of guns that I would have purchased if not painted. Just don't get the Citristrip on the furniture:cool:
Eurodriver
06-29-16, 08:52
I used Citristrip - the spray on. It didn't affect the furniture whatsoever (Google is full of people saying paint strippers will damage furniture. This has never been the case for me with Acetone and now this.)
The first coat went well. I got at least 80% off. However, the suppressor and the barrel were basically untouched. I'm not sure if parkerized steel is a different beast, but it did absolutely nothing.
The paint came off 100% perfectly the furniture (Magpul and BCM - Stock, VFG/Grip) the Surefire, all of the small parts on the lower (disassembled), the PVS14 Aimpoint Twist base, and the Troy BUIS.
I applied a second coat and scrubbed the upper/lower and suppressor with a brush and it made it worse. Whereas before the areas on the upper/lower that flaked off were clean, now it seems I've smeared the paint into the pores. I've got all the sprayed on areas off, but now it looks like what samuse described. I've seen plenty of people get paint off their ARs better than this, though. I am out of paint remover, but I am wondering the best way to get that stuff out.
ETA: I may just reassemble as is until I send it off to be cerakoted. I was quoted $210 by a guy locally that I've done work with in the past for an upper, lower, and handguard. Is that reasonable? My only worry about that is taking off that damn BCM gas block.
P.S. That stuff is *TERRIBLE*. It literally ate through my $8 Chem-grade Ace Hardware gloves in about 30 minutes. My fingers are still numb.
I use Kleen Strip premium paint stripper in the aerosol can. You can get it at Walmart. Just make sure to wear gloves! Let it sit for 10 min then scrub with a tooth brush and rinse off with the hose. The majority of the paint will come off then just hit the stubborn areas again. I've also used this on polymer pieces and it hasn't effected the polymer. I used to use non acetone nail polish remover and a Mr. Clean scrub pad, but that takes forever and does a GREAT JOB. Neither has effected any coatings or finishes on my rifles. But I'm not sure about the KMR finish, if its anything like my Aimpoint T1, it might come out hazy but I just wipe it down with a little lube and that last a long time.
There used to be some Military stuff that was called "Dry Cleaning Solvent", .
Looking up the NSN on this indicates Stoddard Solvent which some sources claim to be akin to mineral spirits, but mineral spirits doesn't seem to have the oomph typically attributed to the dry cleaning solvent. Anyone have any info on what it is exactly?
nj0ywatch1np0rn
06-29-16, 09:50
I used Citristrip - the spray on. It didn't affect the furniture whatsoever (Google is full of people saying paint strippers will damage furniture. This has never been the case for me with Acetone and now this.)
The first coat went well. I got at least 80% off. However, the suppressor and the barrel were basically untouched. I'm not sure if parkerized steel is a different beast, but it did absolutely nothing.
The paint came off 100% perfectly the furniture (Magpul and BCM - Stock, VFG/Grip) the Surefire, all of the small parts on the lower (disassembled), the PVS14 Aimpoint Twist base, and the Troy BUIS.
I applied a second coat and scrubbed the upper/lower and suppressor with a brush and it made it worse. Whereas before the areas on the upper/lower that flaked off were clean, now it seems I've smeared the paint into the pores. I've got all the sprayed on areas off, but now it looks like what samuse described. I've seen plenty of people get paint off their ARs better than this, though. I am out of paint remover, but I am wondering the best way to get that stuff out.
ETA: I may just reassemble as is until I send it off to be cerakoted. I was quoted $210 by a guy locally that I've done work with in the past for an upper, lower, and handguard. Is that reasonable? My only worry about that is taking off that damn BCM gas block.
P.S. That stuff is *TERRIBLE*. It literally ate through my $8 Chem-grade Ace Hardware gloves in about 30 minutes. My fingers are still numb.
haha. I had to wear 2 gloves after my first one deteriorated as well.
Eurodriver
06-29-16, 09:59
Yeah I got a second can and its not doing anything. This stuff isn't budging. I'm not sure what I did wrong :(
I used the paint on gel
http://www.citristrip.com/product/citristrip-gel
On Rustoleum/Krylon and left it on fit 24 hours and the paint came off. Did leave the finish dusty looking as someone else mentioned.
Euro - Sorry I didn't chime in earlier - quite frankly the title didn't really pique my interest until I saw it rambled on for four pages - here is the stuff I use to remove paint and clear coat from motorcycle frames, go-kart frames, bicycles, you name it:
http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/aircraft-paint-remover-aerosol
Wear Rubber Chem Gloves and eye pro.
Euro, as you said it was an SBR, one thing to note if you get it Cerakoted. The bead blast will almost certainly remove your engraving and it will have to be redone immediately if you want to stay configured properly. Ask me how I know...
Euro - Sorry I didn't chime in earlier - quite frankly the title didn't really pique my interest until I saw it rambled on for four pages - here is the stuff I use to remove paint and clear coat from motorcycle frames, go-kart frames, bicycles, you name it:
http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/aircraft-paint-remover-aerosol
Wear Rubber Chem Gloves and eye pro.
I have non aerosol aircraft remover and decided to try the citri gel hoping it was a little less hazardous. Imo, both produce similar results with the similar precautions in use and clean up issues.
Eurodriver
06-29-16, 12:22
Thanks for all the replies, especially the info about the cerakote for SBR markings.
I've got the gun reassembled. I'll get pics up. It looks dusty, but I don't care. The main thing I wanted to eliminate was the maintenance required with the krylon job. It seems like it needed to be redone every few months due to chipping and oil wiping it away. I repainted the KMR in FDE that matches the BCM FDE furniture perfectly, and installed an A5 buffer. My only gripes are that the ejection port finish is totally gone. It looks like the metal from a run down WWII M1 Garand. It's really bad. And I gave the KMR a coat that was a bit too heavy and it was still wet during the reinstallation so I fudged a few spots.
But oh well.
What shade FDE did you find to match BCM's? I can't tell you how many different shades of tan I tried and can never find one that I like!
I have always had really good luck with avon skin so soft. will not harm plastic or metal finishes I think its because the mineral oil gets under the paint and lets it lift dab on a heavy coat let sit one hour and wipe off.
I used to always have a painted carbine too, but it always turns into a sticky mess and just becomes a nasty PITA to have around. If you're deployed to a shit-hole somewhere, it's fine. For something around here, nah.
It was mentioned early on, but chlorine free Brake Cleaner works extremely well. I typically go through three cans for a complete rifle. Most coats I have gone through was two, but it basically blasts it off. I use Aervoe paint for my SBR and Suppressor, and the brake cleaners has always worked well for me. Something to think about if you want to do this again.
I have always had really good luck with avon skin so soft. will not harm plastic or metal finishes I think its because the mineral oil gets under the paint and lets it lift dab on a heavy coat let sit one hour and wipe off.
Funny you mention that. One of the biggest destroyers of paint I have found is sun screen. It creates a gooey mess on contact. I wouldn't want to use it to strip an entire rifle, though.
Motsenbocker's Spray Paint / Graffiti Remover. You can buy it at Lowes or Home Depot.
I've used it a couple of times on painted optics I bought off the EE. Works real well and is water based. No nasty fumes to cause you to pass out.
The way I used it was to spray down the item well then wrap some paper towels around the item as tight as you can. Saturate the paper towels down until they are dripping wet. Keep them that way for about 30 minutes. Most of the paint will peel right off if it doesn't come off when you remove the paper towels.
An old tooth brush will likely be needed for the hard to reach spots or roll marks, etc.
ETA: damndest thing...I soaked my PVS-14 in acetone to remove the paint, and all I've got left are some weird electronics, metal rings, and glass!?!
WTAF!?
Acetone does that to many types of plastic. NEVER let acetone get anywhere close to anything made from some kind of polymer. Some can take it, many can't.
Outlander Systems
06-29-16, 14:28
Just Rickrollin', bro. Thought I'd poke the Euro a little bit.
Acetone does that to many types of plastic. NEVER let acetone get anywhere close to anything made from some kind of polymer. Some can take it, many can't.
Just Rickrollin', bro. Thought I'd poke the Euro a little bit.
LMFAO! Well you got me! :)
Eurodriver
06-29-16, 14:49
Just Rickrollin', bro. Thought I'd poke the Euro a little bit.
Lol I read that and was like hmmm...nahhhhh ;) don't bite.
Outlander Systems
06-29-16, 15:23
In all seriousness, Acetone is great for metals and glass.
For plastic, be ****in' careful. I was a lazy ass, and the acetone was the closest thing around, and wanted to remove some sticker residue from a toolbox...
...top of the toolbox is now like 50 grit sandpaper.
I suppose it could be a chemical stippling agent for Glocks 'n such...
;)
From my experience, Acetone doesn't affect Glock, H&K, Magpul, or USGI AR furniture plastics.
It will melt a Glock box in short order.
Outlander Systems
06-29-16, 15:55
Roger that. I imagine it's from the glass-filled nylon.
Any common plastics I've gotten it near were bad juju.
From my experience, Acetone doesn't affect Glock, H&K, Magpul, or USGI AR furniture plastics.
It will melt a Glock box in short order.
Eurodriver
06-29-16, 16:00
I lost the damn spring for my buffer retaining pin. Do any of you know where I can buy one that doesn't charge $11 for shipping? I can't find this SOB anywhere.
I lost the damn spring for my buffer retaining pin. Do any of you know where I can buy one that doesn't charge $11 for shipping? I can't find this SOB anywhere.
There's none in your kit of extra springs, pins, and detents? ;)
Eurodriver
06-29-16, 16:06
No :( It seems all my spares are either triggers or BCG parts...or selector switches...
I've got a few extras but shipping from me to you is like $12.
Time to maybe buy a spares kit or two from Brownells before they all go OOS by fall.
Just thinking... We'll be headed down to Disney by next fall, I could bring one with. That one will only cost a beer.
Joking aside, I wonder if media or dry ice blasting would be a better option for paint removal.
Euro, PM me your address and I will drop one in the mail
Outlander Systems
06-29-16, 16:55
Plastic bags, Marine.
Seriously, if no one comes through, one of the local shops carries individual lower parts. I'll pick on up and send it your way. PM me, nickel.
Not to hijack the thread, but you're absolutely right, the shipping on small parts is total bullshit. I lost a selector detention spring, and I think it cost $1.25 for three CS replacements with stainless detents...and $19.95 "Shipping and Handling."
How much is ****ing stamp!?! Shit!!!!
I lost the damn spring for my buffer retaining pin. Do any of you know where I can buy one that doesn't charge $11 for shipping? I can't find this SOB anywhere.
Outlander Systems
06-29-16, 16:58
I think his address is on A1A Beachfront Avenue. He needs to ditch the zero eurocrap, and get with the hero on some American Muscle.
Euro, PM me your address and I will drop one in the mail
Eurodriver
06-29-16, 19:15
Funny you mention that. One of the biggest destroyers of paint I have found is sun screen. It creates a gooey mess on contact. I wouldn't want to use it to strip an entire rifle, though.
No no. Funny YOU mention that. This whole thing got started because I was out in the sun for about 12 hours a few weeks ago and the sunscreen literally turned my hand into a painty goopy mess from the pistol grip.
That's why a dirty/dusty upper is whatever. I got all the paint off the stock, VFG, And pistol grip and that's alllllll that matters :)
What shade FDE did you find to match BCM's? I can't tell you how many different shades of tan I tried and can never find one that I like!
Ace Hardware sells Krylon camo in the Khaki color. It matches BCM furniture almost perfectly. It's spooky.
Monk, pm sent. You're the best.
Thought I could upload pics from the mobile site but whenever I get to a PC I'll post pics of my disaster/project.
Anyone wanna buy a used 11.5" BCM LW barrel with original KMR 10" rail? 100% function and if you cerakote it it'll be good as new. I need a quad rail for my IR laser, VFG and light anyway. Shit you can keep the BCM VFG and sling mount and Arisaka light mount
$365 delivered to your door. No muzzle device, BCG, Or CH ;)
steyrman13
06-29-16, 21:21
No no. Funny YOU mention that. This whole thing got started because I was out in the sun for about 12 hours a few weeks ago and the sunscreen literally turned my hand into a painty goopy mess from the pistol grip.
That's why a dirty/dusty upper is whatever. I got all the paint off the stock, VFG, And pistol grip and that's alllllll that matters :)
Ace Hardware sells Krylon camo in the Khaki color. It matches BCM furniture almost perfectly. It's spooky.
Monk, pm sent. You're the best.
Thought I could upload pics from the mobile site but whenever I get to a PC I'll post pics of my disaster/project.
Anyone wanna buy a used 11.5" BCM LW barrel with original KMR 10" rail? 100% function and if you cerakote it it'll be good as new. I need a quad rail for my IR laser, VFG and light anyway. Shit you can keep the BCM VFG and sling mount and Arisaka light mount
$365 delivered to your door. No muzzle device, BCG, Or CH ;)
Pm sent
XD40Colorado
06-29-16, 21:50
I've got an AR that's been painted like a million times. I'd like to remove the paint but I've tried this before with acetone and it was a pain in the ass. I quite literally want to just hose the gun down and be done with it, not deal with any of the bs scrubbing.
I am not concerned about damaging the furniture, but it does have a KMR that I'd prefer not to damage the finish of.
I don't mind disassembling it the gun.
Does anyone have actual experience removing spray paint? I want the easiest method possible.
Rust Oleum Aircraft remover.
Hose the gun down with it. Scrub with Nylon bristle brush. Rinse with garden hose.
Boom! Easy.
lawusmc0844
06-29-16, 22:48
I know others have said it but Citristrip. My BCM BFH middy was all Aervoe dark green (not dark at all, and nowhere near OD as I was hoping), thought it looked like shit, smeared Citristrip, waited 10-15 mikes, paint flaked and bubbled off like nothing. AP brush and garden hose took care of the rest.
Same with my Glock 19 I decided to strip and redo. The Citristrip did not affect the frame at all. No dust marks either on both weapons, like they were never painted before.
Citristrip is great stuff and smells good too (no I don't huff it lol) but it will eat through latex gloves like acid so use the heavier duty gloves.
Citristrip will not look dusty if it is rinsed off very well in hot water.
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