View Full Version : Keymod Install Question
I was cleaning a rifle with a couple of keymod accessories and noticed two of them were loose. One of the little hex screws is partially stripped, which doesn't help matters.
Do any/most of you use blue loctite when installing sections of rail on a keymod hand guard? They were tight when I initially installed them and the last thing I want is for crap to be falling off my rail when I need it.
Thanks.
if its a screw on a gun it get blue loctite.
boombotz401
07-04-16, 21:01
My BCM light mount came loose after 50 rounds with 30in lbs torqued without loc tite
After that I loc tite all keymod attachments
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it's not a keymod issue, it's a recoil issue.
it's not a keymod issue, it's a recoil issue.
That doesn't make any sense. A lot of post have been coming up about this issue lately. Basically I think you have to be careful when installing and get it set just right so that it stays tight.
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DreadPirateMoyer
07-04-16, 21:29
If it's keymod, it gets loctite. That is the rule.
Three BCM sling mounts, an Arisaka fingerstop, Arisaka 1" inline, and KAG's/VFG's have never loosened on me.
Whether it's 1913 or KeyMod, I degrease, apply blue LocTite, torque to whatever spec there is, and let it cure for a day or so before using it. Never had a problem. Let it cure is what I think a lot of people overlook. I've had several items loosen because I didn't let the LocTite cure before use.
That doesn't make any sense. A lot of post have been coming up about this issue lately. Basically I think you have to be careful when installing and get it set just right so that it stays tight.
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Why doesn't it make any sense? Do you loctite your scope rings? Do you loctite your scout lights onto their mount? You should otherwise chances are very good that they will become loose under recoil. Why do you think Magpul puts loctite on all their accessories as they come - so they dont come loose under recoil.
screw+gun=loctite
Looks like I will be using loctite on these from this point forward. Thanks all for your input.
Looks like I will be using loctite on these from this point forward. Thanks all for your input.
Before you reinstall your accessories put them in the slot without tightening the screws. Can you move them back and forth with the screws loose? If there is ANY movement your accessory and/or rail is out of spec. The screws keep the accessory's lugs engaged in the rail slots and do NOTHING to prevent fore and aft movement.
Definitely use blue loctite. I've had both of my BCM scout light mounts come loose when firing. I don't know if I installed them wrong or it was just the lack of loctite, but I haven't had an issue in the few thousand rounds since.
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I was cleaning a rifle with a couple of keymod accessories and noticed two of them were loose. One of the little hex screws is partially stripped, which doesn't help matters.
Do any/most of you use blue loctite when installing sections of rail on a keymod hand guard? They were tight when I initially installed them and the last thing I want is for crap to be falling off my rail when I need it.
Thanks.
Always blue loctite or equivalent, even a ruger 1022 can shake, things loose. From personal experience my first rifle was the 1022, swapped out the sights to ghost ring and fiber optic front, about 50 rounds in I notice my POI was all over the place. I was confused as all heck, until I tried to tighten the grub screws and realized it became so loose it would slide if I just blew on it, ever since then kept some loctite in my range bag.
Before you reinstall your accessories put them in the slot without tightening the screws. Can you move them back and forth with the screws loose? If there is ANY movement your accessory and/or rail is out of spec. The screws keep the accessory's lugs engaged in the rail slots and do NOTHING to prevent fore and aft movement.
This is incorrect. You can't manufacture the accessory to have exactly zero movement when in the slot before tightening the screws. If you look at the keymod specifications, you'll see that the recoil lugs are smaller than the slots on purpose. This is to accommodate small differences between manufacturers of rails and accessories.
When you tighten a keymod screw and nut, the toe of the nut presses against the chamfer that goes around the front of the keymod slot. This in turn presses the accessory rearward until the recoil lug bottoms out against the rear of the keymod slot. This is on purpose and how it is supposed to work. There's even a video floating around with a rail cut in half so you can see how an accessory engages a keymod slot while tightening it down.
I highly recommend using blue loctite 242/243 or vibratite on the screws.
Video Slippers is talking about. The amount of misinformation about keymod is incredible.
https://youtu.be/g2oIlcbzzZ0
Illini_Glock
07-16-16, 03:12
Thanks for thee video. I'm new to the Key-mod type hand guards and it explained a good bit.
Video Slippers is talking about. The amount of misinformation about keymod is incredible.
Oh, dang. After seeing how little material is actually between the KeyMod rail and the nut (i.e. the chamfered area), I don't think I can view it as anything more than a range-toy novelty from here out. It's just so... thin, like unbelievably so.
Not intended as a de-rail, I've just never seen a cutaway before.
556BlackRifle
07-17-16, 11:58
I only have two NSR (keymod) rails and only use Noveske rail sections or Arisaka mounts. Never used loctite and I've never had anything loosen up. If I was going to use a thread locker, I like Will's suggestion of using vibratite. I use it for my scope mounts and it works great.
BufordTJustice
07-17-16, 21:09
Blue loctite, blue Vibratite, or green penetrating loctite for already assembled fasteners.
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