View Full Version : So.....Did a stupid! (Lower issues)
Illini_Glock
07-26-16, 01:06
I purchased the lower that I'm going to use for my SBR build and put it together with the lower parts kit. The stupid part is that I didn't have an upper at the time so did not fit that together to make sure that all was well. I bought an upper a couple of weeks ago and they do not fit together at all. The upper fits fine and I'm able to get the pivot pin inserted. However, the Takedown pin will not go through. Seems that the lower is a bit out of spec. I took it back to where I purchased it from and they sent it back to the Manufacturer (New Frontier Armory) and they 'fixed' it and sent it back. The guys at the shop called me when it came back and said that they were unable to get some of the uppers that they have to install correctly but I should bring mine by to see if it fits. We were able to get it installed, but to get the takedown pin all the way through took some persuading with a small hammer. To get it to back out, we had to use a punch. They are going to return it again, this time with my upper accompanying it to get it taken care of.
This is a rather long and drawn out way for this question. I submitted the Form 1 in May for this lower. If it turns out that they are unable to repair it to accept the upper, what should I do? Do I contact the ATF to see if I'm able to update the serial number? Thanks in advance for any input. I definitely learned the lesson on this build.
Not the first time this has happened
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You do not pass go and you spend another $200.
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My Anderson lower was out of spec and I didn't realize it till I assembled it when my stamp came in. I got a file and ground down the inside of one of the pin holes and now with the Yankee hill EZ pull pins I can do it without having a punch and hammer. Better to have the pins to tight than to loose.
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The only thing you can do is submit the paperwork for them to take it out of the registry and a refund will be issued. Then have to resubmit under the new 41F rules!
Illini_Glock
07-26-16, 05:16
My Anderson lower was out of spec and I didn't realize it till I assembled it when my stamp came in. I got a file and ground down the inside of one of the pin holes and now with the Yankee hill EZ pull pins I can do it without having a punch and hammer. Better to have the pins to tight than to loose.
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Thanks for having some actual input. I'll look at the Yankee Hill EZ Pull Pins.
Illini_Glock
07-26-16, 05:17
Didn't realize I was playing monopoly.
Sorry for getting snippy. I'm a fun loving guy. Back to lurking for me.
this is why you dont mess with cheap and nfa.
buy the best lower or at least from a known good brand.
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The only thing you can do is submit the paperwork for them to take it out of the registry and a refund will be issued. Then have to resubmit under the new 41F rules!
This is one option
Or enjoy the tight pins
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this is why you dont mess with cheap and nfa.
buy the best lower or at least from a known good brand.
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My other Anderson lowers weren't bad just this one was alittle to tight no big deal though. As I read on ar15.com. Pins like pussies, are better when tight lol
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My other Anderson lowers weren't bad just this one was alittle to tight no big deal though. As I read on ar15.com. Pins like pussies, are better when tight lol
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..... true.
my first lower was anderson. the pin holes were super loose.
but it worked
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Take a reamer of the correct diameter to the holes. Reamer of that approximate size shouldn't cost more than $25 from McMaster....
Illini_Glock
07-26-16, 13:07
Got 4 rifles built using these lowers. I've had no issues with any of the others.
Take a reamer of the correct diameter to the holes. Reamer of that approximate size shouldn't cost more than $25 from McMaster....
ream by hand slowly with oil
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john armond
07-26-16, 13:21
I have an Anderson lower that fit very tight with a new LMT upper, loose with an OLD Colt, and wouldn't close on a new Vltor. After shooting a couple hundred rounds it broke in to the point the LMT upper can be removed/installed with finger pressure. Every time I shoot it things start to mesh a little better.
Tested a Colt upper on my Sbr'ed PSA lower before sending off form 1.
This is why you don't build SBRs on a fly by night lower.
It says this on the "How to SBR your lower" at the top of this forum.
Didn't realize I was playing monopoly.
This made me giggle.
Guy who made a basic NFA mistake gets a little hurt when someone makes a joke.
It is relevant, take it in the context he meant it. If you get a new serial number, you'll most likely be looking at spending another 200 when you submit a new form and have to follow 41F.
That doesn't mean you can't get it refunded, as someone mentioned, but please be careful getting snappy and quoting peoples comments to aggressively modify their statement.
You made a mistake, be happy there are people here educated to help you. Some comedic relief is needed sometimes. Based on your response, it sounds like it's in dire need.
ream by hand slowly with oil
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Thanks for covering my omission of important info. WD-40 is almost like it was made for use as aluminum cutting fluid. Leaves a fantastic finish on the lathe with the 7075 I've cut...
Thanks for covering my omission of important info. WD-40 is almost like it was made for use as aluminum cutting fluid. Leaves a fantastic finish on the lathe with the 7075 I've cut...
thanks for taking it as an addon to your post
reamers need oil for precision.
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thanks for taking it as an addon to your post
reamers need oil for precision.
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And life for that matter. good way to burn up a reamer (or most other tools for that matter) is lack of lube.....
And life for that matter. good way to burn up a reamer (or most other tools for that matter) is lack of lube.....
ya lube and booze, and guns
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Note to new guys doing SBR's. Buy a premium lower. You might well have this one for life. Pay a little more and test it out before sending in paperwork. Take no chances on $200 and 4-6 months.
PB
Best practice has always been to build it out as a pistol, function check it, then submit for SBR.
Your choices now are get your money back and start over, or you can fix it with a big hammer.
^^^That's the route I took. I didn't go overboard with an expensive lower but I had an Aero and a Mega to choose from. Both known quantities.
I built all mine as pistols then test function and then submit.
^^^That's the route I took. I didn't go overboard with an expensive lower but I had an Aero and a Mega to choose from. Both known quantities.
I'd rethink that idea.
Thanks for covering my omission of important info. WD-40 is almost like it was made for use as aluminum cutting fluid. Leaves a fantastic finish on the lathe with the 7075 I've cut...
You should try wd40 mixed with cutting oil, about 50/50.
As far as the pins are, you didn't really specify the problem, so I'm going to assume the pin fits in hole in the lower, it just doesn't pass through the tang on the upper.
It's either increase the diameter of one of them, or oblong the hole of one of them. Or, try other uppers.
Since you've registered the lower, I'd probably oblong the hole in the upper, as it's the "cheapest" part if something goes wrong.
If you need multiple uppers to fit, then oblong the lower holes, or one side, if you can get away with it.
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I'd rethink that idea.
Which part?
Eta: for clarity, I built a pistol first and put a couple of hundred rounds on it before submitting my stamp for my Aero lower.
You should try wd40 mixed with cutting oil, about 50/50.
Was planning on turning some aluminum tonight. Have to try that to see how it works.
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