Looking for a New Finish for Ithaca Shotgun

[Screwball]

I just got my Ithaca 87 (37) squared away to the point where I'm happy with it as a defensive shotgun. Put on new wood, and redid the barrel (cut down to 20", new sights, threaded for Remington chokes). Only other thing I'm going to do is some Velcro on the side, so I can use shotgun cards as a side saddle... but holding off on that until I'm finished.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/2F4654FF-7F71-4586-875C-AB0DDF8CC4B8_zpsyffdqyss.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/CF734BCC-917D-4BC7-AE6E-13A47616F487_zpsz8r0gc72.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/1CD81A07-E045-4561-A28D-C6C34DB91346_zpsollqocm5.jpg

I believe the original finish was Parkerized, which I wouldn't have a problem with, but would like to go with something a little tougher, as well as looking good. Looking to get input on different refinishing options.

I don't want to do anything spray/bake on, unless it is extremely durable. This is more of a backup shotgun (my 870 Police tends to stay alongside my bed), but I rather it hold up to basic wear (light scratches) quite well. I also prefer good corrosion resistance.

Color wise, nothing too far away from traditional (no FDE, no OD). I'm happy with a nickel look (matte, not shiny). Can do Parkerizing again, as the original is a little worn on certain parts. Don't mind a black finish, either... as long as the durability is there.

I have two main options so far... first being sending it to CCR. They have done great work with my other firearms, so I know I'll be happy with it. Ideally, I'd like to do cera-plate on all the metal, but unsure on their ability to do the barrel and magazine tube. Worst case, I can have them Parkerize the externals and plate the internals. I did send them an email, but they usually have issues with email communication between myself and them.

The second option is Robar, doing NP3. My 870 Police was done in NP3 Plus, but it is $470 for that. For $370, I'd get a decent finish (if I go with them, I'm sure I'll put in the extra for NP3 Plus, but I rather not spend that much on the shotgun). I looked at Roguard, but cannot see it being more durable that a plating.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Only other companies I had do finishing work was DGR and Shuff's. Wasn't a fan of DGR (when Dean was running it), but might check with them again to see what work they could do. Shuff's was open to doing Parkerizing on a Winchester 1897 that I was going to do a similar project with... but just had to take it completely apart. The Ithaca isn't as complicated as an 1897, so that is another option.

Thanks for taking a look.

[GH41]

First I gotta ask. THe 3rd picture down, of the muzzle. What is that ring I am seeing. I hope it's an optical illusion. To your question. I wouldn't spend more than the gun is worth on a finish. I'd probably parkerize it again.

[Screwball]

First I gotta ask. THe 3rd picture down, of the muzzle. What is that ring I am seeing. I hope it's an optical illusion.

Backside of the choke tube... where it comes back to the barrel.

I was debating about taking another picture to make it less drawn to your eye, but got lazy. [emoji41]

[26 Inf]

I have been experimenting with Norell's Moly Resin.

In fact I just finished a slide and it is baking in the oven as we speak.

Here is a link to the site, read Product Overview and Procedures and Tips as well as the FAQ's.

Parkerizing is an ideal surface to apply the product over:

Moly Resin Thermal Cure coatings will adhere to all metals when the metal surface is prepared correctly or the metal already has a suitable finish for good coating adhesion. The best adhesion to a metal surface for any coating regardless of its brand or type is when it is applied to a surface that has a slight texture. Example: Metal that has been air blasted with a fine media like garnet, aluminum oxide or fine sand is an excellent method of surface preparation. Another excellent alternative is to place Moly Resin over a Parkerized surface since the phosphate action of Parkerizing creates a textured crust on the metal. Placing Moly Resin over an anodized or blued surface will suffice also if the surface is not polished or very slick. (from the FAQ's - my bolds)

Here is the link: http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/

I had never airbrushed anything before, from my experience you will need an Air-Brush and Compressor Kit (Harbor Freight, I think $89.00 on sale for $69.00) and a quart of MEK ($13.00).

[GH41]

I have been experimenting with Norell's Moly Resin.

In fact I just finished a slide and it is baking in the oven as we speak.

Here is a link to the site, read Product Overview and Procedures and Tips as well as the FAQ's.

Parkerizing is an ideal surface to apply the product over:

Moly Resin Thermal Cure coatings will adhere to all metals when the metal surface is prepared correctly or the metal already has a suitable finish for good coating adhesion. The best adhesion to a metal surface for any coating regardless of its brand or type is when it is applied to a surface that has a slight texture. Example: Metal that has been air blasted with a fine media like garnet, aluminum oxide or fine sand is an excellent method of surface preparation. Another excellent alternative is to place Moly Resin over a Parkerized surface since the phosphate action of Parkerizing creates a textured crust on the metal. Placing Moly Resin over an anodized or blued surface will suffice also if the surface is not polished or very slick. (from the FAQ's - my bolds)

Here is the link: http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/

I had never airbrushed anything before, from my experience you will need an Air-Brush and Compressor Kit (Harbor Freight, I think $89.00 on sale for $69.00) and a quart of MEK ($13.00).

I have used Moly Resin for a couple of years but only on small aluminum parts I make. Not sure I would trust it or any other spray on finish on anything that wasn't etched with 80 grit AO.

[Screwball]

I have been experimenting with Norell's Moly Resin.

I am interested in how that slide turns out, but I personally don't want to do it myself.

I do basic gunsmithing (had to fit the stock and forend, which the latter was difficult due to differences in forends), but not really confident enough to refinish an entire shotgun.

This whole project started out with that shotgun being used to donate the furniture to my father's. He had a Ducks Unlimited Guide Gun, with a hard to get laminate stock. His came to him with a cracked wrist, and I found that identical one on GunBroker for $500. Was his Father's Day present, since he loves that shotgun. I put in maybe $300 for the wood and barrel work.

[26 Inf]

I am interested in how that slide turns out, but I personally don't want to do it myself.

I do basic gunsmithing (had to fit the stock and forend, which the latter was difficult due to differences in forends), but not really confident enough to refinish an entire shotgun.

This whole project started out with that shotgun being used to donate the furniture to my father's. He had a Ducks Unlimited Guide Gun, with a hard to get laminate stock. His came to him with a cracked wrist, and I found that identical one on GunBroker for $500. Was his Father's Day present, since he loves that shotgun. I put in maybe $300 for the wood and barrel work.

They will do it. http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/refinishing.asp

[26 Inf]

I am interested in how that slide turns out, but I personally don't want to do it myself.

Here is the whole sordid story. That last post is the slide on the frame. Previous posts showed how dinged it was. Keep in mind this is my first attempt.

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?186280-Surplus-CZ75-Adventure&p=2372438#post2372438

[williejc]

Ditto for Parkerizing. Robar is an expert at Parkerizing, and the price for this service is much less than their "fancy" coatings. By the way, Parkerizing is the base layer for their NP3 finish. Before I spent the extra money, I'd be tempted to spend time rubbing down the barrel and receiver with oil and a soft cloth. And I mean rubbing. Then follow up with a high quality paste floor wax like Johnson's. As it appears in the pictures, your Ithaca has honest wear, which in itself is attractive. Do you really wish to put a prom dress on her?

[Screwball]

Ditto for Parkerizing. Robar is an expert at Parkerizing, and the price for this service is much less than their "fancy" coatings. By the way, Parkerizing is the base layer for their NP3 finish. Before I spent the extra money, I'd be tempted to spend time rubbing down the barrel and receiver with oil and a soft cloth. And I mean rubbing. Then follow up with a high quality paste floor wax like Johnson's. As it appears in the pictures, your Ithaca has honest wear, which in itself is attractive. Do you really wish to put a prom dress on her?

My 870 Police was originally Parkerized... which held up well. Only issue was upkeep laying next to my bed. You only need to let oil soak into sheets once before you start hearing about it.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/IMG_0556.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/IMG_0557.jpg

NP3 Plus really made upkeep A LOT easier in its role. Prior to shooting it the few times a year (I try for quarterly, but have been doing every four months), I blow off the little bit of lint that collects from the sheets (I use an ejection port lock, which keeps everything out of the action; orange lock, and forget the name). Metal still looks as it did when I got the shotgun back from Robar, minus a light scorch mark on the magazine extension.

The finish on the Ithaca is somewhat present, but this shotgun was used heavily (the iPhone pictures really do it more justice than it should get). Might not have been shot a lot, but definitely cradled in someone's arms while hunting. Finish is gone on the edges of the receiver, and there is light rust on it. I probably can get it off, but I'm sure the Parkerizing will come off with it.

While most of my guns are tools, I like them looking good. Especially after I did some work to them. I just picked up a new Mossberg Silver Reserve II, which came with an unfinished edge on the forend. I emailed Mossberg and told them I would like that fixed... planning on using the shotgun for clays, so it will get marked up. But just rather it start off in a better condition, and feel more so with a brand new gun. When I was dry-firing it during this email conversation, noticed the top ejector was locking up the action, so it had to go back either way, but they did replace the wood.

Likewise, I have a S&W 642-1, which I have been carrying for years. I also recently had a conversion cylinder installed to use 9mm in it. It was NP3 Plused when I had the 870 done, and it still looks like it did on the return.

[gaijin]

Melonite/Black Nitride is as bullet proof as it gets.
It would look quite similar to the original Parkerizing.

H&M Metal Processing does work for a lot of smiths:

http://www.blacknitride.com/ourcapabilities.html

[Screwball]

Melonite/Black Nitride is as bullet proof as it gets.
It would look quite similar to the original Parkerizing.

H&M Metal Processing does work for a lot of smiths:

http://www.blacknitride.com/ourcapabilities.html

Thank you for the link.

Do they accept work from individuals, or do you have to go through a gunsmith? If the latter, any recommendations?

[gaijin]

Adam "Ritt" Rittenberry is the firearms contact.
They were accepting firearms from individuals as of 3/4 months ago.
I'd suggest you call and speak with him.

[Screwball]

Adam "Ritt" Rittenberry is the firearms contact.
They were accepting firearms from individuals as of 3/4 months ago.
I'd suggest you call and speak with him.

Thanks, I'll get in touch with him sometime this week.

[Screwball]

Well, decision was made... shotgun goes out to Robar tomorrow; NP3 Plus. [emoji41]

H&M never got back to me.

[HKGuns]

I would send it to Robar and get an NP3+ finish.

You will be very happy.

ETA: I see now I was too late, great choice.

[Averageman]

I just got my Ithaca 87 (37) squared away to the point where I'm happy with it as a defensive shotgun. Put on new wood, and redid the barrel (cut down to 20", new sights, threaded for Remington chokes). Only other thing I'm going to do is some Velcro on the side, so I can use shotgun cards as a side saddle... but holding off on that until I'm finished.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/2F4654FF-7F71-4586-875C-AB0DDF8CC4B8_zpsyffdqyss.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/CF734BCC-917D-4BC7-AE6E-13A47616F487_zpsz8r0gc72.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/1CD81A07-E045-4561-A28D-C6C34DB91346_zpsollqocm5.jpg

I believe the original finish was Parkerized, which I wouldn't have a problem with, but would like to go with something a little tougher, as well as looking good. Looking to get input on different refinishing options.

I don't want to do anything spray/bake on, unless it is extremely durable. This is more of a backup shotgun (my 870 Police tends to stay alongside my bed), but I rather it hold up to basic wear (light scratches) quite well. I also prefer good corrosion resistance.

Color wise, nothing too far away from traditional (no FDE, no OD). I'm happy with a nickel look (matte, not shiny). Can do Parkerizing again, as the original is a little worn on certain parts. Don't mind a black finish, either... as long as the durability is there.

I have two main options so far... first being sending it to CCR. They have done great work with my other firearms, so I know I'll be happy with it. Ideally, I'd like to do cera-plate on all the metal, but unsure on their ability to do the barrel and magazine tube. Worst case, I can have them Parkerize the externals and plate the internals. I did send them an email, but they usually have issues with email communication between myself and them.

The second option is Robar, doing NP3. My 870 Police was done in NP3 Plus, but it is $470 for that. For $370, I'd get a decent finish (if I go with them, I'm sure I'll put in the extra for NP3 Plus, but I rather not spend that much on the shotgun). I looked at Roguard, but cannot see it being more durable that a plating.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Only other companies I had do finishing work was DGR and Shuff's. Wasn't a fan of DGR (when Dean was running it), but might check with them again to see what work they could do. Shuff's was open to doing Parkerizing on a Winchester 1897 that I was going to do a similar project with... but just had to take it completely apart. The Ithaca isn't as complicated as an 1897, so that is another option.

Thanks for taking a look.

I had Mr Schuff do some work on one of my Garand's, I would go with him again every time. Quality work and done in under the time he thought it would take and right back to me. He's excellent.
In that third picture, the one looking down the muzzle. Dude, whatever you do, don't get near any Velcro....

[Screwball]

I had Mr Schuff do some work on one of my Garand's, I would go with him again every time. Quality work and done in under the time he thought it would take and right back to me. He's excellent.
In that third picture, the one looking down the muzzle. Dude, whatever you do, don't get near any Velcro....

Yea, Shuff rebuilt my Century Garand (Lithgow receiver, VAR barrel, mix of PB and Springfield parts). Very happy with his work, and if I ever go into another Garand, he will probably be doing a Mini-G for me (have an M1A now, so could do a mag-fed version).

It isn't that bad... tan and flash make it look worse.

In any event, I definitely will be posting pictures when it comes back. Haven't heard from them, but they did get it.

[Screwball]

Just got it back from Robar...

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/E4EFF032-064B-4542-A2B2-2B83454C9075_zpsgkvnsu6s.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/42097A96-E7D3-4FEA-AA01-7722F0BF96B2_zpsxc2xyhb9.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/E7743DAE-B4AE-4A9B-9080-836B4B0CC6D0_zpsks9z2zua.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc61/Screwball216/663CE7D0-D054-465A-BACC-96C544713ACA_zps5fak0q1l.jpg

Very happy with the work.