T2C
09-01-16, 16:05
I drafted the below information years ago (when I had dark hair and more of it) for dissemination to personnel who were issued a M1A. If you have a proven or better cleaning regimen, by all means use it. If you are new to the M1A platform, you might find the information useful.
M1A Cleaning & Maintenance
1) After you are certain the weapon is clear and unloaded, use the chamber brush to loosen dirt and firing residue from the chamber before removing the operating rod spring. The forward pressure from the bolt is sufficient.
2) Cock the rifle, allow the bolt to go forward into full battery, and place the safety in the on position.
3) Move the rear sight to the lowest elevation position and make a note of how many clicks you lower the sight. This is so you can return the rear sight to zero after completing maintenance.
4) Turn the rifle over and rest it on the sights. It is highly recommended padding be placed on the cleaning table if it is not wood or another soft surface to protect the sights.
5) Remove the trigger group by pulling up and back on the rear of the trigger guard. If it is difficult to remove, a round phillips head screwdriver shaft or other rod with a diameter close to the hole in the trigger guard can be used to gently pry the rear of the trigger guard rearward and upward.
6) Pull up on the trigger group to remove it from the receiver/stock assembly. It should come out of the receiver with light resistance, but not a great deal.
7) Grasp the rear of the buttstock and lift upward to remove it from the action/barrel group. If necessary, you can hold the receiver in one hand while tapping up on the stock with the other hand. Wipe off dirt and powder fouling, then set it off to the side of the workbench to keep solvents and oils off the stock.
8) Turn the rifle over and rest it on the left side. Remove the operating rod spring and operating rod spring guide.
9) Move the operating rod to the rear until the operating rod tab is lined up with the notch on the right side of the receiver. Lift up toward the high side of the notch and out until the tab frees itself from the receiver and remove the operating rod from the op rod guide.
10) Remove the bolt by tilting up and out to the right of the receiver, while rotating the
bolt to allow the firing pin tail to clear the receiver bridge. DO NOT PRY on the
bolt with anything to remove it. The firing pin should move freely. Clean the bolt
with solvent and a plastic brush. Keep solvent out of the firing pin hole.
11) Support the gas cylinder with the gas cylinder wrench and use a good quality 3/8” six point box end wrench to remove the gas cylinder plug. Note: The gas cylinder wrench or other support should be used when removing or installing the gas cylinder plug to avoid stock/receiver bedding damage if it is removed with the action still in the stock.
12) Remove the gas piston, wipe off as much dirt as possible and place it in a shallow
container with good powder solvent, such as Hoppe’s #9. Repeat the same for the
gas cylinder plug. Let them soak while you clean the rest of the rifle.
13) Using a flash hider/muzzle cleaning rod guide, carefully push a bronze brush
through the bore several times to loosen fouling. Be careful to avoid dinging the
barrel crown on the muzzle end of the barrel as this will effect accuracy. The
brush should be pushed all the way through the barrel into view in the receiver
before pulling the brush back through the barrel.
DO NOT USE A GI CLEANING ROD!!!
14) Use an old toothbrush or other flexible plastic brush and solvent to clean the
chamber and receiver. Metal brushes and scrapers are not recommended.
15) Use an old toothbrush or other flexible plastic brush to clean the inside of the gas
cylinder. DO NOT USE A METAL BRUSH TO CLEAN THE GAS CYLINDER.
16) Using solvent, .30 caliber patches and a plastic jag, clean the bore like you would
any other firearm. Wipe the cleaning rod off after each pass through the bore.
After the bore, gas cylinder and receiver are clean, dry thoroughly utilizing dry
rags and cleaning patches. If there is a lot of solvent on the receiver and inside the
gas cylinder, you can used compressed air.
17) Remove the gas piston from the solvent and scrape off any carbon build up with a
plastic scraper. Clean the inside of the gas piston with the small end of a plastic
GI cleaning brush. Dry the gas piston thoroughly and inspect for cracks or chips.
Inspect the gas port and confirm it is not elongated or otherwise worn.
18) Clean the op rod and gas cylinder plug with solvent and a rag. A plastic brush and
solvent should be used to clean out the inside of the gas plug.
19) Wipe down all metal surfaces with a very light coat of oil. Wipe off the receiver
legs. A very light coat of oil should be applied to the bore with a clean patch.
20) Install the gas piston and gas cylinder plug. The inside of the gas cylinder and
piston should be dry. Make certain the gas cylinder is supported by the gas
cylinder wrench. Personnel should not place the receiver in the stock and use the
stock as support when tightening the gas plug; it will wreck the receiver bedding.
Torque the plug to 100 inch pounds utilizing a good quality 6 point 3/8” socket.
Witness marks may be placed on the gas cylinder and plug for installation to the
same torque in the field. Consistent torque has a positive effect on accuracy.
21) The receiver rails where the bolt rides should be greased. Apply grease the
thickness of 5-6 pieces of note book paper in the rails. A bolt roller greaser is
highly recommended for greasing the bolt roller, but you can use the palm of your
hand to work grease in between the bolt and roller. A light coat of grease should
be applied to the outside of the op rod where it slides inside the op rod guide and a
tiny dab of grease should be placed on the end of the op rod where it contacts the
gas piston. Apply grease to the op rod where the bolt roller rides. A light coat of
grease should be applied to the operating rod spring and guide.
22) Assemble the rifle installing the bolt, op rod and op rod spring in that order.
23) Place a dab of grease on the stock ferrule where it contacts the barrel band. On a
used rifle there should be a shiny wear mark to indicate where grease should be
applied. This is done so the barrel/receiver group comes to rest in the same position
after each shot. It has a noticeable effect on accuracy and maintaining zero.
24) Wipe down the trigger group with a cloth. Cotton swabs are handy for hard to reach
places, but caution should be used to not leave any cotton material on any fire
control parts. A dab of grease should be placed on the hammer hooks, the trigger
hooks and the sear. You should be able to see shiny wear marks where the grease
needs to be applied. The tip of a plastic screwdriver or other non-metal tool can be
used to apply grease to hard to reach areas.
25) Place the assembled barrel/receiver group upside down on the bench resting on the
sights. Install the stock and insert the trigger group. Some resistance should be felt
when pushing the trigger guard back into place. Ideally a moderate amount of
resistance should be felt when the back of the trigger guard is 1/8” - 1/4” from
contact with the stock.
26) Return elevation knob to zero using the number of clicks you noted.
27) Wipe dirt and debris off magazines with a soft cloth and lightly oil surfaces.
FM23-8 is available on PDF format on the internet and is a good resource.
Recommended M1A Maintenance Tools & Materials
Bolt Roller Greaser
Gas Cylinder Wrench
3/8” - 6 Point Wrench & Socket
11/64” Drill Bit for cleaning gas piston at weapons facility
5/16” Drill Bit for cleaning gas piston at weapons facility
Chamber Brush
Flash Hider/Muzzle Cleaning Rod Guide
1 Piece Cleaning Rod; a plastic coated Dewey rod is preferred
Plastic or Bronze .30 Caliber Bore Brush
Small Acid Brush or Stiff Paint Brush with ¼” Head for applying grease
NLGI 2 or higher rated grease (Wheel Bearing Grease)
Hoppe’s # 9 Powder Solvent
5W30 Mobil 1 Oil or Break Free CLP
Flexible toothbrush for chamber cleaning.
Pointers:
> The gas cylinder spindle valve should be rotated back and forth every 1,000 rounds to break up carbon. It should not be removed. Do not do this on a National Match rifle.
> The barrel/receiver group should not be removed from the stock for quarterly cleaning. When conducting quarterly cleaning, place the rifle with sights down toward the cleaning table before introducing any solvent into the bore to prevent solvent from soaking into the wood stock.
> The receiver group should only be removed from the stock for annual cleaning or when the rifle is exposed to excessive amounts of rain, snow, mud, etc. Each time the receiver group is removed and reinstalled in the stock, it loosens the bedding and effects accuracy.
> Avoid applying more than an extremely small amount of oil to the receiver where it makes contact with a wood stock. Apply barely enough to prevent rust.
> Do not use metal lubricating oil or solvents on a wood stock assembly.
> Never use WD40 on your service weapons or any gas operated firearm.
> Do not use solvent to remove grease from the Op rod, receiver, etc., during quarterly cleaning, only during annual major cleaning.
> Loosen trigger group for long term storage when the rifle is not carried on duty. (more than 6 months in storage without firing.)
> Store rifle muzzle down when possible.
M1A Cleaning & Maintenance
1) After you are certain the weapon is clear and unloaded, use the chamber brush to loosen dirt and firing residue from the chamber before removing the operating rod spring. The forward pressure from the bolt is sufficient.
2) Cock the rifle, allow the bolt to go forward into full battery, and place the safety in the on position.
3) Move the rear sight to the lowest elevation position and make a note of how many clicks you lower the sight. This is so you can return the rear sight to zero after completing maintenance.
4) Turn the rifle over and rest it on the sights. It is highly recommended padding be placed on the cleaning table if it is not wood or another soft surface to protect the sights.
5) Remove the trigger group by pulling up and back on the rear of the trigger guard. If it is difficult to remove, a round phillips head screwdriver shaft or other rod with a diameter close to the hole in the trigger guard can be used to gently pry the rear of the trigger guard rearward and upward.
6) Pull up on the trigger group to remove it from the receiver/stock assembly. It should come out of the receiver with light resistance, but not a great deal.
7) Grasp the rear of the buttstock and lift upward to remove it from the action/barrel group. If necessary, you can hold the receiver in one hand while tapping up on the stock with the other hand. Wipe off dirt and powder fouling, then set it off to the side of the workbench to keep solvents and oils off the stock.
8) Turn the rifle over and rest it on the left side. Remove the operating rod spring and operating rod spring guide.
9) Move the operating rod to the rear until the operating rod tab is lined up with the notch on the right side of the receiver. Lift up toward the high side of the notch and out until the tab frees itself from the receiver and remove the operating rod from the op rod guide.
10) Remove the bolt by tilting up and out to the right of the receiver, while rotating the
bolt to allow the firing pin tail to clear the receiver bridge. DO NOT PRY on the
bolt with anything to remove it. The firing pin should move freely. Clean the bolt
with solvent and a plastic brush. Keep solvent out of the firing pin hole.
11) Support the gas cylinder with the gas cylinder wrench and use a good quality 3/8” six point box end wrench to remove the gas cylinder plug. Note: The gas cylinder wrench or other support should be used when removing or installing the gas cylinder plug to avoid stock/receiver bedding damage if it is removed with the action still in the stock.
12) Remove the gas piston, wipe off as much dirt as possible and place it in a shallow
container with good powder solvent, such as Hoppe’s #9. Repeat the same for the
gas cylinder plug. Let them soak while you clean the rest of the rifle.
13) Using a flash hider/muzzle cleaning rod guide, carefully push a bronze brush
through the bore several times to loosen fouling. Be careful to avoid dinging the
barrel crown on the muzzle end of the barrel as this will effect accuracy. The
brush should be pushed all the way through the barrel into view in the receiver
before pulling the brush back through the barrel.
DO NOT USE A GI CLEANING ROD!!!
14) Use an old toothbrush or other flexible plastic brush and solvent to clean the
chamber and receiver. Metal brushes and scrapers are not recommended.
15) Use an old toothbrush or other flexible plastic brush to clean the inside of the gas
cylinder. DO NOT USE A METAL BRUSH TO CLEAN THE GAS CYLINDER.
16) Using solvent, .30 caliber patches and a plastic jag, clean the bore like you would
any other firearm. Wipe the cleaning rod off after each pass through the bore.
After the bore, gas cylinder and receiver are clean, dry thoroughly utilizing dry
rags and cleaning patches. If there is a lot of solvent on the receiver and inside the
gas cylinder, you can used compressed air.
17) Remove the gas piston from the solvent and scrape off any carbon build up with a
plastic scraper. Clean the inside of the gas piston with the small end of a plastic
GI cleaning brush. Dry the gas piston thoroughly and inspect for cracks or chips.
Inspect the gas port and confirm it is not elongated or otherwise worn.
18) Clean the op rod and gas cylinder plug with solvent and a rag. A plastic brush and
solvent should be used to clean out the inside of the gas plug.
19) Wipe down all metal surfaces with a very light coat of oil. Wipe off the receiver
legs. A very light coat of oil should be applied to the bore with a clean patch.
20) Install the gas piston and gas cylinder plug. The inside of the gas cylinder and
piston should be dry. Make certain the gas cylinder is supported by the gas
cylinder wrench. Personnel should not place the receiver in the stock and use the
stock as support when tightening the gas plug; it will wreck the receiver bedding.
Torque the plug to 100 inch pounds utilizing a good quality 6 point 3/8” socket.
Witness marks may be placed on the gas cylinder and plug for installation to the
same torque in the field. Consistent torque has a positive effect on accuracy.
21) The receiver rails where the bolt rides should be greased. Apply grease the
thickness of 5-6 pieces of note book paper in the rails. A bolt roller greaser is
highly recommended for greasing the bolt roller, but you can use the palm of your
hand to work grease in between the bolt and roller. A light coat of grease should
be applied to the outside of the op rod where it slides inside the op rod guide and a
tiny dab of grease should be placed on the end of the op rod where it contacts the
gas piston. Apply grease to the op rod where the bolt roller rides. A light coat of
grease should be applied to the operating rod spring and guide.
22) Assemble the rifle installing the bolt, op rod and op rod spring in that order.
23) Place a dab of grease on the stock ferrule where it contacts the barrel band. On a
used rifle there should be a shiny wear mark to indicate where grease should be
applied. This is done so the barrel/receiver group comes to rest in the same position
after each shot. It has a noticeable effect on accuracy and maintaining zero.
24) Wipe down the trigger group with a cloth. Cotton swabs are handy for hard to reach
places, but caution should be used to not leave any cotton material on any fire
control parts. A dab of grease should be placed on the hammer hooks, the trigger
hooks and the sear. You should be able to see shiny wear marks where the grease
needs to be applied. The tip of a plastic screwdriver or other non-metal tool can be
used to apply grease to hard to reach areas.
25) Place the assembled barrel/receiver group upside down on the bench resting on the
sights. Install the stock and insert the trigger group. Some resistance should be felt
when pushing the trigger guard back into place. Ideally a moderate amount of
resistance should be felt when the back of the trigger guard is 1/8” - 1/4” from
contact with the stock.
26) Return elevation knob to zero using the number of clicks you noted.
27) Wipe dirt and debris off magazines with a soft cloth and lightly oil surfaces.
FM23-8 is available on PDF format on the internet and is a good resource.
Recommended M1A Maintenance Tools & Materials
Bolt Roller Greaser
Gas Cylinder Wrench
3/8” - 6 Point Wrench & Socket
11/64” Drill Bit for cleaning gas piston at weapons facility
5/16” Drill Bit for cleaning gas piston at weapons facility
Chamber Brush
Flash Hider/Muzzle Cleaning Rod Guide
1 Piece Cleaning Rod; a plastic coated Dewey rod is preferred
Plastic or Bronze .30 Caliber Bore Brush
Small Acid Brush or Stiff Paint Brush with ¼” Head for applying grease
NLGI 2 or higher rated grease (Wheel Bearing Grease)
Hoppe’s # 9 Powder Solvent
5W30 Mobil 1 Oil or Break Free CLP
Flexible toothbrush for chamber cleaning.
Pointers:
> The gas cylinder spindle valve should be rotated back and forth every 1,000 rounds to break up carbon. It should not be removed. Do not do this on a National Match rifle.
> The barrel/receiver group should not be removed from the stock for quarterly cleaning. When conducting quarterly cleaning, place the rifle with sights down toward the cleaning table before introducing any solvent into the bore to prevent solvent from soaking into the wood stock.
> The receiver group should only be removed from the stock for annual cleaning or when the rifle is exposed to excessive amounts of rain, snow, mud, etc. Each time the receiver group is removed and reinstalled in the stock, it loosens the bedding and effects accuracy.
> Avoid applying more than an extremely small amount of oil to the receiver where it makes contact with a wood stock. Apply barely enough to prevent rust.
> Do not use metal lubricating oil or solvents on a wood stock assembly.
> Never use WD40 on your service weapons or any gas operated firearm.
> Do not use solvent to remove grease from the Op rod, receiver, etc., during quarterly cleaning, only during annual major cleaning.
> Loosen trigger group for long term storage when the rifle is not carried on duty. (more than 6 months in storage without firing.)
> Store rifle muzzle down when possible.