View Full Version : Pinnable 300BLK Can to Avoid Additional Stamp
At this point it is just an idea but I'm thinking of having my 300BLK barrel cut to 12in or so and then having a suppressor pinned on to avoid SBRing the lower.
The rifle in question is a Ruger SR556TD. It is a piston gun and I'm going to be limited by the length of the forend and the location of the gas block.
I like the rifle and have used it quite a bit with my AAC can attached. But this makes for a long and very front heavy configuration hence my desire to shorten things up. Also, I use the rifle suppressed about 90% of the time so I'm not opposed to "donating" a can specifically to this barrel.
In the end this will give me the ability to suppress the gun as a 300BLK and also the ability to go unsuppressed with the installation of the 5.56 barrel.
So what cans are available? Does anyone make a 300BLK version of the Griffin Spartan 3?
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
domestique
11-13-16, 10:42
Surefire Genesis
The Genesis is no doubt a great can but is overbuilt for my needs.
I'm thinking something like the SilCo Omega 9K would work better. It is supposedly rated for both supers and subs. It is also nearly half the weight of the Genesis and is shorter too.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
the sig SRD 762. or sig 762TI, but I think I'd go with the steel version. 15 ounces and under $550
scott
I think the Omega 9k you'd have to silver soldier the mount to the suppressor body, and you'd have to find out if that's legal. Does the Ruger have a pistol length gas system? You could probably get something like a Noveske (or BCM) 9.5" or 10.5" and swap out the barrel, rather than cutting. If your pinning and welding, I think you'd want something more like the SF genesis or Sig can, as far as durability and sound suppression, but that's my opinion. I'm sure the 9k is awesome, and I want one, but for 300BLK, wouldn't you rather decibel levels around 121 db rather than 133db as with the 9k?
And honestly, I'd say SBR it. unless you are constantly traveling out of home state with it.
scott
The Ruger is a piston gun with a midlength gas system. Despite what most people seem to think, the piston works fine with the 300BLK and also works fine so far away from the chamber. Ruger is using a large expansion chamber on the 300 which no doubt overcomes the shortcomings of the Blackout in other external piston designs.
The SIG suppressor might be a good choice although I'm not thrilled about the weight. As it would seem with most 30cal cans, these are built for 308 Win and similar so they'll probably be overkill on a Blackout.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Just wondering, could you use a 7.62 Omega, then have a new direct thread cap made so it could be pinned?
not sure if that would be allowed.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I'd collect the 2nd stamp and avoid all the hassle. Then you're 5.56 upper can be short too. Run the same suppressor on both. $200 is a lazy day at the range shooting 300blk.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Remember if you get a baffle strike or have a issue with the can you may void a warranty depending on how the can is attached. Sending the upper with the can may be problematic. If it were me, buy the second stamp. Its only 200 more after the cost of the can, tax, and the 200 tax.
Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Perm attach a shroud instead.
Rayrevolver
11-14-16, 08:35
Although the price is high, Templar Tactical aka Crux Suppressors has DT models that fit the bill. Their 6" 30cal would work, or even their skinnier cans.
BigWaylon - where are the shrouds available? I looked a while back since us Marylanders have minimum OAL requirements for SBRs. Couldn't find anything.
... what about boring out the Griffin Spartan 3? Seems like the right solution with respect to cost. And can you thread a 30cal barrel in 1/2x28?
I guess if money was no object I'd do something like a Delta P Brevis II. That'd probably be ideal in terms of length and weight.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
FYI, silver soldering is an approved method of permanently attaching something to the muzzle of a barrel.
Their words are, "solder with a melting temp of 1100 degrees or higher".
Sent from my SGP612 using Tapatalk
BigWaylon - where are the shrouds available? I looked a while back since us Marylanders have minimum OAL requirements for SBRs. Couldn't find anything.
Don't know. Always figured I'd have a local machinist make one if I ever went that route.
SILENCERCO says welding/pinning will void any warranty. So the Omega is out.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
SILENCERCO says welding/pinning will void any warranty. So the Omega is out.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
I asked griffin armament the same thing regarding the spartan 3 and yes the warranty will be toast too. pretty sure same goes for sig.
I asked griffin armament the same thing regarding the spartan 3 and yes the warranty will be toast too. pretty sure same goes for sig.
Why would the warranty be void, the Spartan is made to pin? Just curious.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Why would the warranty be void, the Spartan is made to pin? Just curious.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
It's made to pin, but removing the pin may destroy the can. GA said they aren't setup to remove a destroyed mount and attach a new one, therefor the can is garbage. If anyone does go this route, it would be good to have someone that can surgically remove the pin and save the can. or flush cut the barrel, and drill it out from the center until the bits of barrel fall out of the suppressor mount. Sacrifice the barrel to save the can. I'm not even sure that is possible though.
scott
Prior to SBRs being legalized in WA I took two different approaches to do this.
1) I had a AAC Ranger 2 permanently attached to a 12.5 inch AR in 556. It works great.
The advantages are several: its a one stamp gun. It is optimized (buffers, gas ports, zeros...) to run with a can. I went with a large handguard that extends over the junction of the barrel to the can. Works great. Looks cool too.
The disadvantages: Cleaning the barrel is a bit of a pain. If you get a baffle strike, you are going to have a tough time. I suppose you can drill it off, but I'll bet that the hole would be frowned upon by the warranty department. There is also a science/art to getting them to run really well. My best friend did the exact same system, same barrel, same everything, but with a Raider can. The backpressure is different, and it hasn't been as reliable as mine - which has had no issues at all.
So my advice, get a pistol lower, and try as many of these cans on short barrels as you can. Make sure what you get will work with your piston... Or at least, buy a can that a reputable source says works on your system.
The barrel shroud is another approach I took. This one was a 9mm upper. The shroud is permanently attached to the barrel. My SWR Octane 9 can slides into that shroud and sticks out the front an inch or so. Advantages: It is a no stamp gun. It also allows you to move the can from platform to platform. The disadvantage: heavier than it needs to be and longer (by a couple of inches) than it could be as an SBR. Another thing to be careful of is making sure that you take the can off when you are not using it. Getting a can stuck in a shroud, or worse, having it unscrew itself in the shroud sucks ass. I have never seen one of these on a rifle caliber, but they do work. On the shroud, make sure your bottom is unvented, so if you are shooting it without the can, you don't burn yourself with the muzzle flash.
Oh and when you sell it, its just a rifle... which is also handy.
SO it can be done. Either will work. Having said that, if you can get an SBR in your state, I'd just do that and be done.
Don't know. Always figured I'd have a local machinist make one if I ever went that route.
I had a local gunsmith make me one. Its basically a piece of steel tube welded to the front of a barrel (he preferred that to aluminum, and as it is subject to abuse - I agreed). It came out great.
Prior to SBRs being legalized in WA I took two different approaches to do this.
1) I had a AAC Ranger 2 permanently attached to a 12.5 inch AR in 556. It works great.
The advantages are several: its a one stamp gun. It is optimized (buffers, gas ports, zeros...) to run with a can. I went with a large handguard that extends over the junction of the barrel to the can. Works great. Looks cool too.
The disadvantages: Cleaning the barrel is a bit of a pain. If you get a baffle strike, you are going to have a tough time. I suppose you can drill it off, but I'll bet that the hole would be frowned upon by the warranty department. There is also a science/art to getting them to run really well. My best friend did the exact same system, same barrel, same everything, but with a Raider can. The backpressure is different, and it hasn't been as reliable as mine - which has had no issues at all.
So my advice, get a pistol lower, and try as many of these cans on short barrels as you can. Make sure what you get will work with your piston... Or at least, buy a can that a reputable source says works on your system.
The barrel shroud is another approach I took. This one was a 9mm upper. The shroud is permanently attached to the barrel. My SWR Octane 9 can slides into that shroud and sticks out the front an inch or so. Advantages: It is a no stamp gun. It also allows you to move the can from platform to platform. The disadvantage: heavier than it needs to be and longer (by a couple of inches) than it could be as an SBR. Another thing to be careful of is making sure that you take the can off when you are not using it. Getting a can stuck in a shroud, or worse, having it unscrew itself in the shroud sucks ass. I have never seen one of these on a rifle caliber, but they do work. On the shroud, make sure your bottom is unvented, so if you are shooting it without the can, you don't burn yourself with the muzzle flash.
Oh and when you sell it, its just a rifle... which is also handy.
SO it can be done. Either will work. Having said that, if you can get an SBR in your state, I'd just do that and be done.
Pic?
I had a local gunsmith make me one. Its basically a piece of steel tube welded to the front of a barrel (he preferred that to aluminum, and as it is subject to abuse - I agreed). It came out great.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
In all honesty, the shrouded barrel idea (a la Tac-Sol 10/22 bbl) seems like it may be the best solution. It should not be hard for a good machinist to make a 4" shroud that should be reasonable close to the end of the HG, and just big enough for something like an omega to screw on inside, leaving a couple inches sticking out for easy removal. Then same can for the 5.56 upper, and other guns as well.
Another option you may seriously consider is doing a F1 can and having a pin-able end cap made for that. Overall cost should probably save you a few $$ even using Ti parts (vs cost of a relatively light weight .30cal can), and then you can build a can that fits your exact needs.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.