Questions About Lubrication During Lower Receiver Assembly

[Z_0]

What is the best method of lubrication during the assembly of a lower receiver?

I plan to do the following:
- Aeroshell 33-MS grease on the threads of the receiver extension tube
- Aeroshell 6 grease on the trigger/hammer sears and disconnector contact surfaces
- A drop of CLP in the bore of the hammer pivot and trigger pivot
- Small amount of CLP on the top of each side of the hammer spring where the spring contacts the receiver wall
- Very light coat of CLP on all other springs and pins including the action spring

Should grease be applied to the ends of the pivot pin / takedown pin detents or the selector detent?

Are there any comments or suggestions?

Thanks for the help.

[BFS]

Here we go, another lube thread. Brace yourself.

My own opinion if its worth anything-

Anti-seize or grease on barrel nut and receiver extension. NO LOCTITE!!!

Lube the crap out of the BCG. Whatever you have will work just fine. Crisco, Rem Oil, WD40, used motor oil, Asstroglide, Firelube, Frogclean, Slip 5000, doesn't matter, they all will work just fine. Just keep your BCG wet.

Anywhere else is beneficial, but not critical.

Its impossible to overlube a AR15. Literally the worst thing that can possibly happen on an overlubed rifle is you will get oil stains on your shirt.

Personally I use grease on the hammer/tigger and disconnect surfaces, and a tiny bit of grease on recoil spring. Other contact parts during assembly get a drop of oil. Mybe I'm doing it wrong. But its what I do.

[Ryno12]

Here we go, another lube thread. Brace yourself.


I don't consider this "another lube thread" in the traditional sense of 'which brand'; however, there is over-thinking going on, which is typical of engineers.
I would recommend the use of common sense when lubing an AR but I also know engineers are stripped of that ability in their first year of college. [emoji6]

So, I'll just say... lubricate all points of friction.

[Iraqgunz]

I build hundreds of lowers per year. Your lower will be lubed enough with use.

I use Mobile 1 synthetic grease on the hammer and trigger in the similar method that Geissele recommends.

I use Loctite C5-A on the receiver extension/castle nut. That's pretty much it.

[Dionysusigma]

I use Loctite C5-A on the receiver extension/castle nut.

I'm probably completely wrong on this, but for the longest time I've thought using copper anti-seize on dissimilar metals led to premature corrosion, especially in moist environments...

Ditto on the FCG greasing, but I use TW-25B (just 'cause I've got a lot of it).

[Vegasshooter]

I'm probably completely wrong on this, but for the longest time I've thought using copper anti-seize on dissimilar metals led to premature corrosion, especially in moist environments...

Ditto on the FCG greasing, but I use TW-25B (just 'cause I've got a lot of it).

Not an issue. In fact Colt Armorer manual says the same thing as Iraqgunz. I've been to Colt's class and Semper Paratus, and both advise to use it.
I don't do hundreds of lowers like Iraqgunz, but I do a decent amount of AR work. I use it there, and on the barrel nut to upper receiver.

[556BlackRifle]

I'm probably completely wrong on this, but for the longest time I've thought using copper anti-seize on dissimilar metals led to premature corrosion, especially in moist environments...

Ditto on the FCG greasing, but I use TW-25B (just 'cause I've got a lot of it).

If you go here (http://quicksearch.dla.mil/qsDocDetails.aspx?ident_number=36032) and click on the pdf Rev C from 22 Aug 2016 you will find the answer to your question.

[SomeOtherGuy]

I'm not sure it's worth posting after IG's #4, but I feel like typing so...

To start, I usually put a light coat of rust protectant (Boeshield T-9 or Corrosion-X) on any surface that is steel (with or without a phosphate coating) and doesn't move. I don't know if this is needed, but I don't see what it could hurt.

I lube most of the moving parts with whatever gun oil I'm using at the time. This includes the takedown and pivot pins and hammer/trigger pins.

On a Geissele or Larue trigger I lube the sear surfaces with grease as indicated in Geissele trigger instructions. With GI type triggers, including coated ones (ALG ACT, etc.), I intentionally leave the sear surfaces dry on the theory that initial use dry will help them wear-in faster and improve the feel, with the intent of greasing them sometime later after several hundred pulls.

I grease the selector, both the circular bearing surfaces it rides on and the track for the detent. This makes a noticeable difference in feel and should prevent corrosion and dirt from affecting it.

I know people like the Aeroshell but I don't think the brand or type of grease is critical for these uses. I have tried several types including cheap NLGI #2 grease (common automotive/tractor grease) and things like Weaponshield Grease and have not noticed any difference. My current favorite is marine rated NLGI #2 waterproof grease, on the theory that water wash-out is much riskier than minor differences in lubricity at high temperatures that the part will never see. This stuff is $3-5 per 12oz tube at any auto store, a near lifetime supply if you're not a professional.

[titsonritz]

I build hundreds of lowers per year. Your lower will be lubed enough with use.

I use Mobile 1 synthetic grease on the hammer and trigger in the similar method that Geissele recommends.

I use Loctite C5-A on the receiver extension/castle nut. That's pretty much it.

So no drop of oil on bolt catch pin and hole?

[KalashniKEV]

So no drop of oil on bolt catch pin and hole?

I just spit on it...

[tehpwnag3]

I know that using anti-seize containing graphite on aluminum is a no-go, but that copper is preferred for that application.


I'm probably completely wrong on this, but for the longest time I've thought using copper anti-seize on dissimilar metals led to premature corrosion, especially in moist environments...

[Dionysusigma]

That's probably what it was, then. I stand corrected.

[556Cliff]

Though Loctite C5-A contains graphite.

[Iraqgunz]

I lube roll pins before assembly. I guess I thought it was common sense (knowledge).


So no drop of oil on bolt catch pin and hole?

[556BlackRifle]

Though Loctite C5-A contains graphite.

I'm pretty sure the type 3 hard coat offers a good level of protection. Additionally, an electrolyte is required for the galvanic process to initiate.