View Full Version : Computer Build Help
My computer is currently 6+ years old. It's done GREAT! for how long I've had it, but I want to get into 4K gaming, etc. and want another 6+ years out of my next PC.
I have settled on the 1070 NVIDIA graphics card as a solid price/performance bench mark.
What CPU should I get?
How much DDR4 do I need?
I think I am kindof roped into the 99X Motherboard, yes?
I do not want to step up to the NVIDIA 1080, as that's $200 more real world pricing. I don't want to waste my money on the 1060. Find me the "1070 of CPU's"?
I am so damn lost looking at intel's stuff. I know I want an i7 at least, yeah?
What's your budget?
I find that pcgamer usually has some pretty good build guides for each tier of budget.
Here are 3 articles for each tier, maybe you'll find one that matches what you're looking for.
http://www.pcgamer.com/best-gaming-pc/
http://www.pcgamer.com/pc-build-guide-high-end-gaming-pc/
http://www.pcgamer.com/build-guide-the-extreme-gaming-pc/
What's your budget?
I find that pcgamer usually has some pretty good build guides for each tier of budget.
Here are 3 articles for each tier, maybe you'll find one that matches what you're looking for.
http://www.pcgamer.com/best-gaming-pc/
http://www.pcgamer.com/pc-build-guide-high-end-gaming-pc/
http://www.pcgamer.com/build-guide-the-extreme-gaming-pc/
$1200ish
I already have the tower/case, and a SSD that I will just move from my current to my new computer, and the CD/Blueray drive, and maybe one or two other things? that I can just move over/cannibalize to conserve cash.
I want to spend $1200ish on:
Videocard
CPU
Motherboard
Memory
Powersupply
That is not a "hard budget", but I would like justification for breaking it.
Well, this list puts you just above your budget at $1234
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB GDDR5 256 bit PCI-E 3.0 x 16 Windforce OC (GV-N1070WF2OC-8GD)
$370 (Amazon)
Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake Quad-Core 4.2 GHz LGA 1151 91W BX80677I77700K Desktop Processor
$339 (Amazon)
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 ATX Motherboard
$215 (Amazon)
G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Desktop Memory Model F4-2400C15Q-32GRB
$200 (newegg)
Power supply: EVGA Supernova 850 watt G2 80 Plus Gold
$110 (Amazon)
Defaultmp3
03-01-17, 09:50
You're not gonna get good 4K gaming out of a GTX 1070. Even a GTX 1080 would only get you middling results (assuming you're looking for consistent >60 FPS).
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpus,3986.html suggests the Core i7-7700K probably the best CPU for long-term use. That being said, CPUs aren't terribly important for gaming performance, as a rule of thumb. I'm still rocking the i7-960, an 8 year old CPU, and it's still fairly rare for the CPU to be the bottleneck on 1440p gaming, when paired with an AMD Fury X.
You're not gonna get good 4K gaming out of a GTX 1070. Even a GTX 1080 would only get you middling results (assuming you're looking for consistent >60 FPS).
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpus,3986.html suggests the Core i7-7700K probably the best CPU for long-term use. That being said, CPUs aren't terribly important for gaming performance, as a rule of thumb. I'm still rocking the i7-960, an 8 year old CPU, and it's still fairly rare for the CPU to be the bottleneck on 1440p gaming, when paired with an AMD Fury X.
So what GPU should I be looking at for solid 4K gaming performance?
Defaultmp3
03-01-17, 10:29
So what GPU should I be looking at for solid 4K gaming performance?I'd say a GTX 1080 is the only real viable single card choice, unless you want to splurge and get a Titan X; even then, the GTX 1080 is only going to give good, and not great performance. 4K gaming is still in its infancy, really; there are many cards that claim to be capable of 4K gaming, but at what settings? Sure, my Fury X can do 4K gaming... but with low detail, minimal AA, poor shadow settings, etc.
You can go for a GTX 1070 now, and save up for another one to Crossfire, but I've not had the greatest of experiences with multi-GPU set-ups, though this was a couple years ago (dual HD 6870s); had issues with firmware (bad framerates with certain titles) and heat dissipation.
FWIW, I plan on building a new computer this year, and will be sticking with my 1440p monitor. I personally rather have high frame rates than extra high resolution, though this plays into the fact that I like to play FPSes.
[We] can suggest the GTX 1080 for playable 4K frame rates and the Titan X for maxed-out quality settings.Source: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-gpus,4380.html
I think a better choice than a 4K setup would be to spec for one of the ultra-wide curved monitors. IMO, I found it to be way more immersive if you are playing at a desktop than a 4K monitor. A 3440x1440 curved monitor really fills up your field of view. When not gaming, its nice to have the extra real estate to surf and have Netfilx/YouTube going.
If you are across the room, then 4K on a 60"+ TV makes sense. It just kind of depends on what you're doing. Games also scale much better than they historically have for different setups. Refresh rate also matters. One of the ultra high refresh monitors will give smooth motion, but that's more frames that need to be drawn.
Also, surround sound wireless gaming headphones. What a difference. I thought surround headphones were a gimmick. Spend some money here.
If you're looking for places where you can cut cost, an i5 CPU is a solid choice.
My current is an i7-6700K on a EVGA Z170 Classified, with two EVGA 1080 FE cards all under water. Its about a year old, so the i7-7700K is the new step up. I also think the 1080Ti edition should be out now, if not then soon.
Don't go nuts on a motherboard either. Some of the Asus ROG ones have a shit ton of features most of which were never at all applicable to what I was doing. Overclocking is a easy way to get a slight performance bump, but no where near as lucrative as it was in years past. The real world gains just aren't there.
The 1080s are VERY good on heat and run very cool. The Ti versions may be a little hotter, but I have no experience with them. The 980Ti cards were like hotplates. The fan noise is what lead me do ditch them for water cooled 1080s. When my kitchen fridge kicks on I can hear it from my living room over my PC.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v340/roguedemon/IMG_1201_zpshqxfpb6r.jpg
el_chingoton13
03-01-17, 10:58
Heads up, they just announced the 1080ti and a drop in price for the 1080 to $500. Try and squeeze that in.
Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
Agree with Default and BP7178. Your majority of budget will be allocated towards the GPU and at that point, you wont get the benefits.
Nice rig bp-
I'd say a GTX 1080 is the only real viable single card choice, unless you want to splurge and get a Titan X; even then, the GTX 1080 is only going to give good, and not great performance. 4K gaming is still in its infancy, really; there are many cards that claim to be capable of 4K gaming, but at what settings? Sure, my Fury X can do 4K gaming... but with low detail, minimal AA, poor shadow settings, etc.
You can go for a GTX 1070 now, and save up for another one to Crossfire, but I've not had the greatest of experiences with multi-GPU set-ups, though this was a couple years ago (dual HD 6870s); had issues with firmware (bad framerates with certain titles) and heat dissipation.
FWIW, I plan on building a new computer this year, and will be sticking with my 1440p monitor. I personally rather have high frame rates than extra high resolution, though this plays into the fact that I like to play FPSes.
Source: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-gpus,4380.html
Are you on BF4 stil?
I built a PC a few years ago and it was about a $2500 build I believe.
Now it's completely outclassed already due to the huge performance leap of graphics cards.
I was in the train of two 970's was better than the price of one 980. I won't be doing that again.
I suggest buying the 1080ti and then buy another one a year or two away. I will always buy the top end card from. Ow on and not try and just go with two SLI right off the bat.
I also suggest getting a ultrawide monitor that's 34 inches. I have the Asus and it's awesome. I wouldn't get into 4K just yet. Too much money involved to do it right for the returns you get.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Defaultmp3
03-01-17, 11:11
Are you on BF4 stil?No, I never got into BF4. Not sure why, I played the shit out of BF3, but there was just something... off about BF4.
Also, surround sound wireless gaming headphones. What a difference. I thought surround headphones were a gimmick. Spend some money here.What are you using? I've personally went the audiophile route with Sennheiser HD 650s and a JDS O2+ODac, and have found it to be more than adequate for positional sounding. I've never really been impressed the few times I demo'd the surround sound cans.
Outlander Systems
03-01-17, 11:13
Kenneth is absolutely right. My K6000 is already a ****ing dinosaur.
Heads up, they just announced the 1080ti and a drop in price for the 1080 to $500. Try and squeeze that in.
Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
IS the Ti worth it over the regular? At what point with the i56900 be a bottle neck?
Defaultmp3
03-01-17, 12:02
At what point with the i56900 be a bottle neck?Realistically? Will be probably quite awhile (couple of years) before it might be an issue for gaming. Like I said, I'm still rolling with an 8 year old CPU, and it's chugging along fine for most 1440p gaming. The i5-7600K woudl be a great choice for gaming.
Realistically? Will be probably quite awhile (couple of years) before it might be an issue for gaming. Like I said, I'm still rolling with an 8 year old CPU, and it's chugging along fine for most 1440p gaming. The i5-7600K woudl be a great choice for gaming.
Awesome, that's the one I meant. It's $229 vs. $400. I could dump that $200 into GPU and go 1080 vs. 1070, with no net price increase in the system.
No, I never got into BF4. Not sure why, I played the shit out of BF3, but there was just something... off about BF4.
What are you using? I've personally went the audiophile route with Sennheiser HD 650s and a JDS O2+ODac, and have found it to be more than adequate for positional sounding. I've never really been impressed the few times I demo'd the surround sound cans.
I went with the Logitech G933 mostly because I'm also running a G810 keyboard and G302 mouse. I'm a firm believer in that things from the same manufacturer play well together. Having a single software solution to manage all three is nice. I just wish I could keep the keyboard from going on full gay pride demo mode on startup. The RGB rainbow thing is a little tacky and thankfully turns off as soon as the software loads.
I don't know what games you play, but I was really surprised in The Division how positional the sound is.
The Ti cards are always a tick improvement in the product line compared to the tock improvement in jumping from say a 980 to 1080. In the case of the 1080, I think you're really going to see a lot of performance unlocked. The 1080 has always been bottle-necked by power limitations, this improvement alone makes the Ti worth it.
A good SSD greatly increases system performance, but not so much in games as all of the load times seem to be network/connection limited.
With DX12 and its work-a-like CPU will matter more and more in games. Which SLI solutions aren't much good for (DX12), SLI just doesn't scale there. I highly suggest getting a 1080Ti. They shouldn't have an aggressive power requirement as far as a PSU is concerned. I think a lot of money gets wasted in that department as well. I have a 1k watt but that was selected more for the versatility of the cabling. There is NO WAY a wall outlet in a city apartment built in the 1950s can deliver that.
With the ultrawides, IIRC most are 60Hz. So to keep things within or just above 60 FPS so vsync works shouldn't be hard with a 1080Ti, so it all stays nice and fluid.
There's a new AMD processor in the works that has a lot of buzz, but I'm kind of limp on AMD stuff.
I went with the Logitech G933 mostly because I'm also running a G810 keyboard and G302 mouse. I'm a firm believer in that things from the same manufacturer play well together. Having a single software solution to manage all three is nice. I just wish I could keep the keyboard from going on full gay pride demo mode on startup. The RGB rainbow thing is a little tacky and thankfully turns off as soon as the software loads.
I don't know what games you play, but I was really surprised in The Division how positional the sound is.
The Ti cards are always a tick improvement in the product line compared to the tock improvement in jumping from say a 980 to 1080. In the case of the 1080, I think you're really going to see a lot of performance unlocked. The 1080 has always been bottle-necked by power limitations, this improvement alone makes the Ti worth it.
A good SSD greatly increases system performance, but not so much in games as all of the load times seem to be network/connection limited.
With DX12 and its work-a-like CPU will matter more and more in games. Which SLI solutions aren't much good for (DX12), SLI just doesn't scale there. I highly suggest getting a 1080Ti. They shouldn't have an aggressive power requirement as far as a PSU is concerned. I think a lot of money gets wasted in that department as well. I have a 1k watt but that was selected more for the versatility of the cabling. There is NO WAY a wall outlet in a city apartment built in the 1950s can deliver that.
With the ultrawides, IIRC most are 60Hz. So to keep things within or just above 60 FPS so vsync works shouldn't be hard with a 1080Ti, so it all stays nice and fluid.
There's a new AMD processor in the works that has a lot of buzz, but I'm kind of limp on AMD stuff.
I play Battlefield 1 and other FPS's on XBOX (can't wait for the 4K capable XBOX), and on PC, I play Starcraft II, which is low-demand really, until you load up 3-4 players with full armies of zerglings or something on max res. The main drain on PC for me will be WoW in 4K, and Overwatch.
I am currently at 20MB/S download, 4-6MB/S upload, re: connection
IIRC, there is going to be a new chipset for the GTX line coming out really soon so the 1080's are going to drop in price by a lot. Not sure when that is going to happen or if it already has. SOmething to keep in mine if you are going to SLI two cards together.
The next Nvidia graphics card will be the 1080Ti series. The next in the numerical sequence wouldn't be until a minimum of 6 months after the 1080Ti, and thats after the dual chip (Titian) version of the same.
I think most would agree to buy the best single graphics solution you can afford unless you are going full retard dual setup right from the jump. Its a nice idea to buy a lower quality one and doubling up later as its perceived usefulness drops as more and more advanced games come out, its just that it doesn't work out very well in practice.
It's well worth the $700 MSRP. With only a 250w TDP, that's a lot of performance for very little power draw.
4K gaming really needs TitanX pascal vs 1080 solutions. 1080SLI is where you can start to use max settings again but many games do not take full advantage of SLI. You can run the settings lower and get playable frame rates on 1070 but in many ways you're defeating the purpose. Even a single TitanX with max graphics settings can have unfortunate frame rates with 4K games.
For 1080p gaming the 1070gtx is a great solution.
wildcard600
03-01-17, 15:00
Get the most powerful CPU you can, even if it means shorting the GPU for the short term. GPU will be easier to replace and will likely get replaced in a few short years anyway.
People discount CPU's for gaming but it really is the backbone of the system and with DX12 and Vulkan API's looming on the horizon (wide adoption) leveraging CPU power is looking to become much more important than it was in years past.
Outlander Systems
03-01-17, 15:18
This.
My beast mode GPU outruns my CPU all day long.
Get the most powerful CPU you can, even if it means shorting the GPU for the short term. GPU will be easier to replace and will likely get replaced in a few short years anyway.
People discount CPU's for gaming but it really is the backbone of the system and with DX12 and Vulkan API's looming on the horizon (wide adoption) leveraging CPU power is looking to become much more important than it was in years past.
@OP this site has some good info. I've found their results to be pretty accurate. Not that I've tried everything but expectations from item A to item B seem to be real world relative.
http://www.passmark.com/index.html
and like others said.... everybody is telling you their stuff is 4K now... but 4K at what rate? Most is low frame rate. I mean it's all the way down to cables. I just bought some cables. they were advertised as 4K compatible. Someone asked about the frame rate. They were spec'd to 30fps I believe. Now someone said they were using them at 60fps but "4K" has become the new "HD". So if you have a need you better figure out what flavor of 4K you are buying.
I just bought two system boards lately. One MSI and one ASUS. They are both nice but the MSI even though it has less features and was a much cheaper seems to be built better. directions are better. The bios and auto updates work great. It's a minor thing but for instance the ASUS sites would say build your system up with one stick of ram then keep adding... sort of like baking a cake. On the MSI, I just loaded everything in and bam, it just fired right up no issues at all. Including one of those new Samsung M.2 drives.
Get the most powerful CPU you can, even if it means shorting the GPU for the short term. GPU will be easier to replace and will likely get replaced in a few short years anyway.
People discount CPU's for gaming but it really is the backbone of the system and with DX12 and Vulkan API's looming on the horizon (wide adoption) leveraging CPU power is looking to become much more important than it was in years past.
I kind of disagree. If the most stressful thing you do is game, then that's there the money needs to go and that always going to mean a GFX card, but not to the point you get a CPU bottleneck. If you're encoding or doing other CPU intensive tasks then yes. When I'm not gaming I'm playing shit on youtube or browsing the web. I could do all that on an iPad if needed. However, The Division at 3440x1440 requires a bit more than the iPad can muster.
All that being said, your monitor will have a huge say in what you need for a video card. 1080p, 1440p, 4K, QHD, multi-solutions etc.
just do not skimp on a good power supply :) often people get good parts then think OH go cheapest not a good idea :)
wildcard600
03-01-17, 21:37
I kind of disagree. If the most stressful thing you do is game, then that's there the money needs to go and that always going to mean a GFX card, but not to the point you get a CPU bottleneck. If you're encoding or doing other CPU intensive tasks then yes. When I'm not gaming I'm playing shit on youtube or browsing the web. I could do all that on an iPad if needed. However, The Division at 3440x1440 requires a bit more than the iPad can muster.
All that being said, your monitor will have a huge say in what you need for a video card. 1080p, 1440p, 4K, QHD, multi-solutions etc.
A i7-2600k delivers performance near to an i5-6600k using the same graphics card (GTX 1070). Thats a 6 year old CPU (i7-2600k) rivaling performance of one released less than 2 years ago (i5-6600k).
CPU matters more than alot of people think, especially when the processor starts getting up there in years.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_2304830783&feature=iv&src_vid=s42gvVS77dU&v=MUOi1tlozG4
Okay, I'm done. Here is how it shook out:
Liquid cooled i7-7700k
240gb ssd boot drove
2tb sata3 7200rpm had
32mb ddr4 2133
Nvidia 1080 8mb gddr5 graphics card
Hopefully it will be decent.
Okay, I'm done. Here is how it shook out:
Liquid cooled i7-7700k
240gb ssd boot drove
2tb sata3 7200rpm had
32mb ddr4 2133
Nvidia 1080 8mb gddr5 graphics card
Hopefully it will be decent.
Were you able to stay within your budget?
Were you able to stay within your budget?
I don't recall a budget :(
Seriously though, $1750 shipped with 1 year warranty parts and labor from the company. New tower, fully assembled, etc. etc. etc. including Windows 10 64bit
I was coming in at $1300ish with an i5-7600 and a 1080 and 16mb ram and a 240 SSD and case and so forth. I figured I might as well spend another $400 and get liquid cooling, the latest i7, and so on and so forth. This will support whatever GPU comes out after the 1080TI, IMO, which will be my next move (1280 or something probably).
I am coming from:
AMD Phenom II 955 Black edition
GTX460 750mb GDDR4
8mb DDR3 1333.
I suspect my gameplay will improve.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/17760840_888728061281_999579298449921870_o.jpg?oh=a8ef434d879e606515e891d8f47935ef&oe=5952B11C
http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/3303601
Done
Nice. You might try pushing air through the rad instead of pulling it provided your front fan is setup as an intake fan.
Nice. You might try pushing air through the rad instead of pulling it provided your front fan is setup as an intake fan.
I'm not sure what research they have done on case airflow, but I know it's pushing air out the radiator well. Played Tom Clancy Ghost Recon:Wildlands with every setting maxxed for a few hours last night.
My god. The things they can do with graphics nowdays!
1_click_off
04-04-17, 12:07
Another trick for airflow is to go into the bios and set the power supply fan to run on high at all times. I had a video card keep tripping from overheating at a plant. They needed the system running so they pulled the cover, that helped some. I set the power supply fan to high and put the cover back on. It kept it running until a new video card came in. Loud, but moves air.
Another trick for airflow is to go into the bios and set the power supply fan to run on high at all times. I had a video card keep tripping from overheating at a plant. They needed the system running so they pulled the cover, that helped some. I set the power supply fan to high and put the cover back on. It kept it running until a new video card came in. Loud, but moves air.
Interesting. Air is moving very well through the case, though. The system has been tested and many of them built, so I presume it works well enough. I had no issues during several hours of the most intense PC gaming made (Ghost Recon/max settings). Power supply fan didn't ever even kick on loud enough to really hear. Super quiet PC! The CPU is loafing along at only 4.5Ghz. It can overclock to 7, but that would void warranty, and frankly, is unwarranted. The GPU is limiting factor for me.
Digital_Damage
04-05-17, 12:00
Interesting. Air is moving very well through the case, though. The system has been tested and many of them built, so I presume it works well enough. I had no issues during several hours of the most intense PC gaming made (Ghost Recon/max settings). Power supply fan didn't ever even kick on loud enough to really hear. Super quiet PC! The CPU is loafing along at only 4.5Ghz. It can overclock to 7, but that would void warranty, and frankly, is unwarranted. The GPU is limiting factor for me.
I would say your biggest limiting factor is that power supply. Looks like a single rail 500, so I'm guessing nominal is 315 ish.
I would say your biggest limiting factor is that power supply. Looks like a single rail 500, so I'm guessing nominal is 315 ish.
You think it's fine as-is for the system as-is?
Interesting. Air is moving very well through the case, though. The system has been tested and many of them built, so I presume it works well enough. I had no issues during several hours of the most intense PC gaming made (Ghost Recon/max settings). Power supply fan didn't ever even kick on loud enough to really hear. Super quiet PC! The CPU is loafing along at only 4.5Ghz. It can overclock to 7, but that would void warranty, and frankly, is unwarranted. The GPU is limiting factor for me.
I take it you mean OC to 4.7 GHz. My 6700k will go from 4.0Ghz to 4.6Ghz with no additional settings or tuning, everything on auto. I can get it to run at 4.9Ghz, which requires a lot more voltage and generates quite a bit of heat. Outside of benchmarking it isn't worth it at all. These days I tend to stick with 24/7 style operation.
In general though, OC'ing isn't as much of a warranty deal breaker as it was in its infancy. BIOS hacks and delidding etc is where you get into trouble. The only failure I've ever had is when I flashed a hacked BIOS into a 980Ti. It ran for awhile but eventually fried. EVGA still honored the warranty though, and sent me another one.
Digital_Damage
04-05-17, 15:19
You think it's fine as-is for the system as-is?
Would opt for something significantly more stable.
7700k max power draw is 195w
1080 Max power draw is 173w
Optical Disk can reach 35w
so that give you 405w, just for those components not including pump, fans etc...
I doubt that power supply it 80+ so you are right on the edge, you will not be able to add more drives or a 2nd 1080.
I would pick up a CX750, can get one for $70.
the 500w rating is a max
Would opt for something significantly more stable.
7700k max power draw is 195w
1080 Max power draw is 173w
Optical Disk can reach 35w
so that give you 405w, just for those components not including pump, fans etc...
I doubt that power supply it 80+ so you are right on the edge, you will not be able to add more drives or a 2nd 1080.
I would pick up a CX750, can get one for $70.
the 500w rating is a max
Whoa there! Where are you getting these numbers at? If a 7700K is drawing 195W it would be on fire. Heck my 6850K OCed to 4.4 doesn't even come close to that.
Stock for the 7700k is 91w and no way will Overclocking double that.
1080 are rated at 180Watt and OCed can get closer to 190-195.
That being said I would recommend a better PSU.
A EVGA Supernova 650 would be perfect for this and not break the bank. They are usually on sale for around 80.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/?tag=pcpapi-20
Digital_Damage
04-06-17, 07:49
Whoa there! Where are you getting these numbers at? If a 7700K is drawing 195W it would be on fire. Heck my 6850K OCed to 4.4 doesn't even come close to that.
Stock for the 7700k is 91w and no way will Overclocking double that.
1080 are rated at 180Watt and OCed can get closer to 190-195.
That being said I would recommend a better PSU.
A EVGA Supernova 650 would be perfect for this and not break the bank. They are usually on sale for around 80.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X2AW/?tag=pcpapi-20
with the 7700k, that power draw is the established max for select bin and stable at 4.9, with 16gb ram.
The 6850k is 236w stock clock to the wall, with 16gb ram.
I think you are talking about nominal draw for CPU.
1080 is actually one of those situations where they over estimate draw and round up(actual being 173 rounding up to 180).
in any situation 500w max is going to be problematic for him.
I still don't see where you are getting those numbers. Even if we are talking about total system draw (minus GPU), the only way to get those numbers is if you are running something like Prime 95. I don't have any time right now but tonight I will throw a watt meter on my systems and see what I am pulling from the wall.
I do know however that my old system which was a 5820K and SLIed 980Tis with a custom loop was only pulling about 750 from the wall.
500w may be sufficient under normal conditions but more importantly, and maybe I am old school, but PSU is not something to skimp on. That Cybertron PSU needs to GTFO of there; power draw is hard to discern when we cant even quantify the efficiency rating of that thing. I second Kwelz advice on the EVGA....or even the old Corsair CXM line would serve you much better.
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-CX750M-BRONZE-Haswell-Modular/dp/B00ALK3KEM/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=03D15MHG4H90GJ2XM451
The 195w is a 7700k at 5.1Ghz and is total system consumption measured at the wall running Prime 95 small FFT, 58w idle and is again total system consumption.
https://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2016/12/05/core-i7-7700k-performance-overclock-preview/5
Here is a capture from Hardware Monitor showing my PC. I was playing The Division and after ran Intel Burn Test on very high.
44884 (Click make bigger...)
I could see that being closer to total system draw.
I did a bit of testing on my main rig. First so we know what we are dealing with.
6850K Overclocked to 4.4Ghz at 1.35 Volts
32Gb Ram
2X 1080s in SLI
6 SSDs
2 HDDs.
2X D5 Pumps for the custom Loop.
11 Noctua Fans.
In other words my system draws a LOT more than the normal PC or even your average gaming PC.
http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz274/Kevin_Welz/20170406_173946.jpg
So I ran a few tests. First Firestrike Extreme. A good benchmarking program that runs the system pretty hard.
I got a max of 629 Watts with a Minimum of 540
http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz274/Kevin_Welz/20170406_173910.jpg
http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz274/Kevin_Welz/20170406_174139.jpg
Next I ran Intel Burn test on Very High while running Unigen Heaven Benchmark on Extreme while set to system Resolution which is 3440x1440
Max was 682 with a minimum of 618
http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz274/Kevin_Welz/20170406_174758.jpg
http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz274/Kevin_Welz/20170406_174750.jpg
These are of course numbers from the wall. The actual system would have been pulling less.
Getting a good PSU is very important. However the amount of wattage needed is usually grossly overstated today.
Also Prime 95 is in no way a good indication of power draw. It is really nothing more than a Power Virus anymore and can damage CPUs. And more importantly does not show the true limits or capabilities of a system.
Next I ran Intel Burn test on Very High while running Unigen Heaven Benchmark on Extreme while set to system Resolution which is 3440x1440.
Also Prime 95 is in no way a good indication of power draw. It is really nothing more than a Power Virus anymore and can damage CPUs.
Now that is a proper test. I agree to a point about Prime 95. It depends on which version, as to how shitty of a program it is. I much prefer IBT.
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