SIG P226

[Slater]

I was in the local gun store the other day browsing the handguns. I looked over a SIG P226 (Mk 25 variant) and it seemed like a pretty solid gun. The counter guy said "They're good guns but you have to keep an eye on the frame rails for excessive wear". I have zero experience with the P226 (or any other SIG), but is there anything to that or just more gun store BS?

[Coal Dragger]

Gun store BS probably from a counter guy that thinks anodizing wear constitutes unusual wear. He probably thinks surface wear on the barrel hood has to be monitored too.

Keep it lubed, and it will be fine. By the time you can wear out the frame rails you'll have shot about $10K worth of 9mm ammo. At which point that pistol owes you nothing.

[Dionysusigma]

Seconding Coal Dragger's comment. There was a very brief time in the 1980s when Sig made "mud cuts" - scalloped cuts in the rails and frame - in an attempt to prevent an almost nonexistent problem, that drastically reduced the frame's service life. They've long since stopped doing that, and the commercial Mk25 definitely wouldn't have them.

Ignore Counter Guy's statement. He probably has a "buddy in the Seals/ Marine Recon/ Delta Force," too. :rolleyes:

[MSparks909]

Uhhhh gun shop guy wasn't totally wrong; there were more than a few instances of excessive frame wear around the 2012-2014 time period. Significant amounts of metal were being removed from the frame rails of the problem guns. Google it.

But yes, the anodizing will wear over time. I personally run a grease on the frame rails of my alloy Sigs and Berettas. I've noticed less wear than with just oil. YMMV.

[QuickStrike]

I generously apply weaponshield grease on mine. Doesn't look much different than NIB after a little over a thousand rounds so I'd say it works.

People who lube less might see more wear, I dunno. I always keep the rails on all my guns relatively grit-free and lubed.

[gtmtnbiker98]

The particular area of concern is underneath the frame rails. I don't care what you use (oil/grease/whatever) until the slide mates to the frame, there will be wear. Period. Typically the wear will subside once the two parts have "mated" for a lack of a better term and once stabilized, proper lubrication should prevent further wear. This is what happens when you have a stainless STEEL slide and an ALUMINUM frame.

[1986s4]

I have a P 225 that I bought nearly new. It's a carry piece so the thin SIG bluing on the slide is showing silver and the barrel near the muzzle has a "smilely" . But the greased slide and frame rails show little to zero wear. Unless defective I think the rails are the least of your worries.

[Slater]

I rea somewhere that the MK 25 has a chrome-lined barrel, which makes sense given it's usage by NSW. SIG doesn't seem to make this an advertising point, though. Is that accurate regarding the Mk 25 barrel?

[jwperry]

I rea somewhere that the MK 25 has a chrome-lined barrel, which makes sense given it's usage by NSW. SIG doesn't seem to make this an advertising point, though. Is that accurate regarding the Mk 25 barrel?

Yes, the Mk25 barrels are chrome lined

[17K]

I think the MK25 is one of the most durable handguns built today. A couple of HK models may be the only ones that will outlast a MK25.

[Slater]

Looks like it's still getting some foreign sales. The Saudi Arabian Ministry of Defense requested $5,972,352 worth of P226 Pistol "TACOPS" with Sound Suppressors and DBAL-PL Laser/illuminators.

http://securityassistance.org/blog/state-department-proposed-firearms-sales-surpass-600-million

[sierra 223]

Generally speaking its going to take a lot of rounds to wear out a 226. Way more than most people will ever shoot.
Other than normal replacement of pins or springs, the first major part to be replaced by our range armorers is usually barrels.

I am unaware of any major issues with rails for us.

[Beat Trash]

Replace the springs and pins at the correct intervals and you won't have issues. Yes it is possible to shoot out the barrel and wear out the gun. But when you look at the amount of money that would have to be spent in ammunition to do so, it's not a realistic concern for the majority of people.

If I were in the market for a Sig 226, the Mk25 would be the one that I would buy.

[Slater]

I've heard from a couple folks that the Legion's PVD finish seems to be less durable than the traditional Nitron/anodizing of Mk 25's and other older P226 models. Not sure if that's the nature of the finish itself or just poor application?

[HKGuns]

Hell, if you shoot it, the barrel, slide and locking lug will wear too.

[HCM]

If buying a new P226, the MK 25 would be my choice as I prefer the older short extractor.

My agency has issued P 229s with optional P226's for over a decade. Everything wears, especially steel moving on aluminum. Unlike polymer guns you need to keep the frame rails lubed. If you do so the frame will easily last 50 to 100k rounds which is several PM / spring change cycles.

If you like it, buy with confidence.

[m4brian]

If new, no worries. If used, examine the rails. Grease and go.

[El Pistolero]

Keeping the frame rails greased (not oiled) is the best thing you can do for SIG frame life. Recoil springs and breechblock roll pins (if it's an older SIG with the stamped carbon steel slide) are the only other critical things.

[Dionysusigma]

Recoil springs and breechblock roll pins (if it's an older SIG with the stamped carbon steel slide) are the only other critical things.

Which is why I keep spares of notably life-limited parts on hand. Recoil and breech block pins for the Sigs, buffer springs and extractors for the ARs, etc. I also tend to keep a spare or two of easily-lost bits (e.g. striker spring cups for Glocks), especially if poking around with a magnet won't help find it.

[Slater]

As far as overall strength/durability/longevity, is there any notable difference between the current stainless slide and the older carbon steel version?

[Coal Dragger]

The milled slide is the way to go. The old stamped carbon steel slide has a breech block pinned in place and that is a wear item for the roll pin. New style slides don't have that issue.

[SE Flyer]

As far as overall strength/durability/longevity, is there any notable difference between the current stainless slide and the older carbon steel version?

Old version has pinned breech block assembly vs. new slides made from stainless with integral assembly. Stainless slide will be noticeably heavier and I prefer my stamped steel W. German Sigs (lighter and better balanced).

IF you are a super high round count shooter, you MAY notice that the breech block on a stamped slide MAY have some play develop, necessitating a replacement of the breech block roll pins.

[SE Flyer]

The new slides with the HUGE extractor look like crap compared to the original stainless slide's external extractor or the timeless beauty of the original internal extractor stamped slide.

[dpadams6]

The particular area of concern is underneath the frame rails. I don't care what you use (oil/grease/whatever) until the slide mates to the frame, there will be wear. Period. Typically the wear will subside once the two parts have "mated" for a lack of a better term and once stabilized, proper lubrication should prevent further wear. This is what happens when you have a stainless STEEL slide and an ALUMINUM frame.

Exactly right.

[El Pistolero]

Old version has pinned breech block assembly vs. new slides made from stainless with integral assembly. Stainless slide will be noticeably heavier and I prefer my stamped steel W. German Sigs (lighter and better balanced).

IF you are a super high round count shooter, you MAY notice that the breech block on a stamped slide MAY have some play develop, necessitating a replacement of the breech block roll pins.

Shooting 5,000 rounds necesitates replacement of the breech block roll pins, play or no play.

[SE Flyer]

Shooting 5,000 rounds necesitates replacement of the breech block roll pins, play or no play.

That number is correct from Sig Sauer. It's an easy replacement.

[ccosby]

Gun store BS probably from a counter guy that thinks anodizing wear constitutes unusual wear. He probably thinks surface wear on the barrel hood has to be monitored too.

Keep it lubed, and it will be fine. By the time you can wear out the frame rails you'll have shot about $10K worth of 9mm ammo. At which point that pistol owes you nothing.

What he said. Most people will not put enough rounds through the gun in a lifetime to wear out the frame rails.

[Coal Dragger]

What he said. Most people will not put enough rounds through the gun in a lifetime to wear out the frame rails.

Exactly and anyone who does wear out a frame by shooting the gun that much will give basically zero f**ks at that point and just buy a replacement. They'll also most likely be very very proficient with that platform by then.

[LMT Shooter]

That number is correct from Sig Sauer. It's an easy replacement.

I'm not proud of the ignorance of my youth, but I shot mine enough to break the pins. The pistol appears otherwise unharmed, but that was stupid of me. Do not neglect to replace them when appropriate.

[SE Flyer]

I'm not proud of the ignorance of my youth, but I shot mine enough to break the pins. The pistol appears otherwise unharmed, but that was stupid of me. Do not neglect to replace them when appropriate.

More times than not, just the pins break.

[LMT Shooter]

I've always wondered how good my luck was. At the time I had not bothered to learn how to properly care for my weapons, and I'm certain that I fired dozens, probably over 100rds, before I realized what had happened. I kinda had a "shoot it until it don't work no more" attitude back then. It functioned 100% for God knows how long before I saw that one side had the pins sliding/drifting out, but the other end of the pins strangely did not move inward simultaneously.Hmmmmm......

Live & learn, I figure.

[pat701]

A Sig P226 is a world class combat pistol. If you grease the rails and oil parts that turn, you will be fine.

[Rinspeed]

I always laugh at comments anyone says about wearing out most modern pistols. Fact is far more twits on the errornet talk about shooting than those that actually do. If you have $20K to spend on ammo to wear out a $800 pistol who gives a shit. You got your monies worth out of it, don't be such a twit. :rolleyes:



If I were in the market for a Sig 226, the Mk25 would be the one that I would buy.



If I were looking for one it would be one made 20 years ago or if you could afford one a German Mastershop X5 L1 made 10 years or so ago.

[Pappabear]

It is painful to stand near a gun counter in most big box stores. And you feel bad when some poor bastard is trying to learn something and commando Bob is just putting on a ignorance clinic.
PB

[SiGfever]

I have owned multiple SiG's in my life, the only one I kept is a P226 "NSW" serialized pistol. It is Spooky Accurate, and for years I only used TW-25B on it, now it gets Slip 2000 EWL.

[Evel Baldgui]

I've shot a p226 that an associate has owned for ten years, when we bring several pistols to the range to practice with, an it's been as accurate as any of my newer pistols.