Glock Trigger-Reliable with no hump at the end... Is it possible?

[M4Fundi]

I have read 2 dozen Glock trigger threads on multiple web sites and my brain hurts now. Can't believe I am having to ask this and can't find a common consensus on this other than stick with the stock trigger.

I HATE the hump before the break and can't believe its not possible to find a fix for this that is reliable. I don't need a light trigger. I just need a reasonably smooth break. I have tried several Glocks lately with Ghost connectors that felt just fine, but it appears that Ghost connectors have a 50/50 rep on reliability. I want a carry gun that is reliable without a hump before the break... is it possible? If so what is the answer?

[elephantrider]

What exactly do you mean by "hump?" Are you talking about the wall just before the trigger breaks, releasing the striker? Or, are you referring to the resistance before you hit the wall, which is actually the trigger bar engaging the striker safety block, and moving it out of the way? If you are referring to the latter, then doming the striker safety block takes the resistance out of it.

[Dionysusigma]

If I remember right, the trigger bar in a Glock slightly pulls the striker to the rear just before release - this is why the Hk VP9 has that funky "trigger transfer bar + downward cam" system.

A slightly higher strength Glock trigger spring (one that pulls the trigger forward [back, my bad] like the stock setup, not like the NY1 or 2) might help, but it'll still be there.

[M4Fundi]

I'm talking about the break. "The Wall" as you call it.

[Beef15]

Have a Ghost Pro 3.3 no "wall". 6k+ no reliability issues.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

[Rattlehead]

I'm talking about the break. "The Wall" as you call it.

A decent polish job and an OEM Glock "-" connector or Ghost 4.5lb connector will mitigate the wall somewhat.

The 'hump' that you're feeling is a combination of the striker being released, firing pin block being depressed, as well as the trigger bar rolling rearward/downward on the connector and a few other minor factors. There are slight geometrical changes that can be made on the rear portion of the trigger bar when polishing that will result in a more straight back/revolver-ish feel.

It is true that every once and a while you will get lucky (or not lucky, depending on what type of trigger pull you prefer) and get a straight back/no wall trigger bar and connector combination, however I have found that when this is the case there is sometimes:

1. an issue with engagement (< 2/3)
2. less tactile reset

As mentioned above it's definitely possible to lose or mitigate the wall, however it generally takes some experience with polishing and geometry on the trigger bar, or just dumb luck. :D

[El Pistolero]

I'm using the Ghost Edge 3.5 connectors in a Gen 4 G19 and a Gen 3 G21 and both triggers have a smooth, rolling break with no 'wall' and have been 100% reliable.

[Jesse H]

I had an Agency drop in trigger that went in my gun for a day and about 100 dry fires before I sold it. It had the rolling break that I didn't care for.

[elephantrider]

I'm talking about the break. "The Wall" as you call it.

I followed Grant's trigger stoning/polishing guide which resulted in a smooth, grit/bump free pull pull up to the wall. The break is fairly clean/crisp, at least for a Glock (it's not, and wont ever be a 1911). Most important part is that the break is consistent and predictable. I keep all stock springs, except the safety plunger, for reliability, positive trigger reset, and I don't like the cascade effect of swapping trigger/striker/recoil springs. The stones were about $20 if I remember correctly. I also used a dremel and some Flitz.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?103781-Home-Gunsmithing-Glock-Trigger-Job-(Part-1)

[Hayseed]

I have a Ghost 3.3 Pro in my comp gun. 2k so far with no issues, I like it a lot. I always hear people talk about issues with Ghost trigger bars, but I have yet to see anything first hand. Not saying there is not an issue with their stuff, I am just curious as to how prevalent it is. Either way I stick to a polish and "-" connector for carry guns.

[M4Fundi]

I put a Hackathorn Trigger in it with all parts polished OEM and the minus connector... can't tell a bit of difference from original trigger. I went to our training facility and there were 6 other Glock shooters there and all had OEM parts and the Ghost Connectors and the triggers were decent that I could live with... just scared of Ghost stuff. All shooters had thousands of rounds on their Ghost Connectors and swore by them... Just thought this all had to be figured out by now... a proven reliable trigger that had a normal quality break.

[elephantrider]

I put a Hackathorn Trigger in it with all parts polished OEM and the minus connector... can't tell a bit of difference from original trigger. I went to our training facility and there were 6 other Glock shooters there and all had OEM parts and the Ghost Connectors and the triggers were decent that I could live with... just scared of Ghost stuff. All shooters had thousands of rounds on their Ghost Connectors and swore by them... Just thought this all had to be figured out by now... a proven reliable trigger that had a normal quality break.

Did you take a look at that link I posted? Grant's Glock trigger job guide. He shows how to lightly stone the trigger engagement surfaces. Stoning takes down the high spots from the mfg. rough cutting/machining process to smooth it out and give a more crisp break. Stone, then polish. You want to make the surfaces flat, and then smooth. I suspect that 'Hackathorn' trigger is just a polished set of parts. I bet you, or I, could do a better job with $20 worth of honing stones, and a Dremel. I suspect a carefully stoned 5.5 ( ) OEM connector, along with the rest of the OEM part will do you just fine. I could even do an OEM connector, or a parts set for you if you like.

[26 Inf]

I could even do an OEM connector, or a parts set for you if you like.

OP - that is a generous, high class offer.

I chased the perfect Glock trigger for a while. At work I had access to pretty much unlimited Glock OEM parts so I tried a lot of stuff. I've used set screws, rubber tubing etc. to limit over travel and reset, worked over several Ghost Rocket connectors, changed every spring available, etc.

Never really satisfied. Ended up just doing the polish and using the standard connector.

I have a 'special' trigger group assembly that has just about as much travel as a true SA (but not the glass break I wanted). It is unsafe for carry, but works like the cats meow in one G-17, in my other G-17, not so much. A perfect example of got to remember these are mass produced pistols designed to be put together from bins of parts with no hand fitting. People (me included) try to make the Glock into something it was never intended to be.

JMO YMMV

[M4Fundi]

I will check out the link. My first issue pistol was a P-35 and then a revolver and then a Beretta 92P and then a P-35 again. I love the P-35 and the 1911. Just got tired of spending the $ and time have them tweaked for carry. I often have to use a Glock for work and so decided to take the leap at home with a set of Glocks. I just wanted a Lego Tupperware Gun set that did what I wanted it to do without hand fitting, so I have been trying to come up with parts swap that will achieve this, so I could do it to any gun anywhere and have the trigger I like.

I will check out the link and give her a try. I do very much appreciate the offer to polish for me and worst case scenario may take you up on it.

Thanks for everyone's time!



Did you take a look at that link I posted? Grant's Glock trigger job guide. He shows how to lightly stone the trigger engagement surfaces. Stoning takes down the high spots from the mfg. rough cutting/machining process to smooth it out and give a more crisp break. Stone, then polish. You want to make the surfaces flat, and then smooth. I suspect that 'Hackathorn' trigger is just a polished set of parts. I bet you, or I, could do a better job with $20 worth of honing stones, and a Dremel. I suspect a carefully stoned 5.5 ( ) OEM connector, along with the rest of the OEM part will do you just fine. I could even do an OEM connector, or a parts set for you if you like.

[Kdubya]

Feel is subjective, but I'll add my name to the list of members running a Ghost connector with over 1,000 trouble free rounds. Personally, I really like what it did for the overall pull weight and feel. YMMV.

The upside is that it's a very inexpensive mod that can easily be reversed.

[elephantrider]

I will check out the link. My first issue pistol was a P-35 and then a revolver and then a Beretta 92P and then a P-35 again. I love the P-35 and the 1911. Just got tired of spending the $ and time have them tweaked for carry. I often have to use a Glock for work and so decided to take the leap at home with a set of Glocks. I just wanted a Lego Tupperware Gun set that did what I wanted it to do without hand fitting, so I have been trying to come up with parts swap that will achieve this, so I could do it to any gun anywhere and have the trigger I like.

I will check out the link and give her a try. I do very much appreciate the offer to polish for me and worst case scenario may take you up on it.

Thanks for everyone's time!

I hear you. I've fiddled with drop-in trigger parts for the Gee-lock as well, looking for the just right carry set up. I've found that most of them offer little to nothing compared to careful application of elbow grease to the stock parts. If it's a G19, I ditch the serrated trigger, for a smooth trigger. I've played with the fancy aluminum aftermarket triggers, and they can be nice and give that last little bit of feel, but at significant cost relative to a Glock. Even if using a fancy trigger shoe, I'd still want my own worked-over trigger bar. Let me know if you have any questions.

[GunsCarsBikesCigars]

The weight of the actual break should be the length and angle of the firing pin sear edge to the connector tip edge. Going to remove a tiny bit on my 19C and hopefully drop just the weight down at least 1lb

I messed w the connectors and springs etc a few yrs ago on other G4 23,s and 21s and they always ruined it completely

[turnburglar]

I had a glock (-) connector and 6# trigger spring that felt like the wall disappeared, or at least GREATLY diminished it.


I dont prefer that feel for a trigger and have since changed it back to factory (+) connector and 5# trigger spring.

[t1tan]

Ghost Pro 3.3 here as well, like it so much in my 19 I had the 43 version on hand before I even picked up my 43, waiting on my SSVI trigger to show up to install and fit it.