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Hallboss
10-07-08, 00:15
I have a DPMS 16" SS bull barrel and hate the glare that the SS gives off. Can I prime and paint the barrel, have it parked or am I stuck?

Thanks

canucklehead
10-07-08, 00:36
Paint away - however, I'd recommend using GunKote or some other gun related bake-on finish. Regular Krylon paint works too - but it's not too durable!

bkb0000
10-07-08, 01:07
could call your local machine shop and see if they'll powder-coat it for you... lot more durable than painting it yourself. should be able to do it in any color, and once it's done it's a perfectly paintable surface for future paint jobs.

Hallboss
10-07-08, 01:29
Thanks guys.

Stickman
10-07-08, 06:38
Sand blast it so the finish has something to adhere to, then coat it with header paint or one of the ceramic finishes. Once you fire it and get the barrel heated up, the finish will cure.

Its a cheap and easy way to do it.

1_click_off
10-08-08, 19:07
power coat? Just thinking about this.... Power coat is sprayed on as a powder and than baked at 400 degrees for about 20-30 minutes. Will this alter the metelergy of the barrel? when tempering 200-300 light straw, 300-400 browning, 400-500 bluing, 500-700 purple. I don't know and am just wondering. Anybody know???

bkb0000
10-08-08, 23:01
power coat? Just thinking about this.... Power coat is sprayed on as a powder and than baked at 400 degrees for about 20-30 minutes. Will this alter the metelergy of the barrel? when tempering 200-300 light straw, 300-400 browning, 400-500 bluing, 500-700 purple. I don't know and am just wondering. Anybody know???

can't say, 1_click... you might very well be hitting on something valid. i don't think i've ever paid any attention to how, exactly, powder coating is done. I do know that it's something people do, and have even seen some examples over the years, but beyond that i'm ig'nant.

Bushytale
10-09-08, 02:18
Hallboss, just sandblast or beadblast to kill the bright finish.

bkb0000
10-09-08, 02:49
i suppose the very first question that should have been asked would have been.... is it gloss stainless or matte? I just assumed it was matte.

if it's matte, the only improvement thats going to occure will be some kind of coating.

if it's bright/gloss stainless, some good ol' 120 grit multi-purpose and 20 minutes out of an afternoon will cut the glare. I'd turn it like 30 rpm on a lathe, but just rolling it by hand should produce a matte finish that wont be TOO hideous.

Robb Jensen
10-09-08, 05:24
I would have it sandblasted and used GunKote or Norrels moly finish, a more expensive and durable finish it IonBond.

Abraxas
10-09-08, 05:35
Where can one get ion bonding done, and how much does it cost?

Robb Jensen
10-09-08, 05:44
Where can one get ion bonding done, and how much does it cost?

I don't know what they charge for just a barrel but Springer Precision does IonBonding on a complete upper for $225.00 http://www.springerprecision.com/art/IonBond.pdf

I'm going to have them do my STI 2011 slide over the winter (the off season).

Abraxas
10-09-08, 06:05
I don't know what they charge for just a barrel but Springer Precision does IonBonding on a complete upper for $225.00 http://www.springerprecision.com/art/IonBond.pdf

I'm going to have them do my STI 2011 slide over the winter (the off season).

Thanks for the info