Accuracy Build??

[turnburglar]

Hey Forum Mates,


I recently decided to rebarrel my upper, for no other reason than a great veterans day sale at Faxon.

I bought the Match 14.5 gunner, because I have always wanted a light weight 14.5 barrel. Since I do have a decent stock pile of 77gr ammo I decided to go with the match barrel over a regular stick.

When I go to torque the barrel nut and flash hider is there any advice from the forum as to what procedure I should follow for the most inherent accuracy as possible? When I am done I want to have a shoot off between the new 416R match barrel and a regular BCM stick.

Thanks in advance

[Clint]

Don't over torque the muzzle device

[PrarieDog]

Use barrel blocks to support the barrel when tightening, as in don't rely on the receiver to resist torque when installing the brake.

[Hulkstr8]

Use barrel blocks to support the barrel when tightening, as in don't rely on the receiver to resist torque when installing the brake.

You think a reaction rod is good enough?

[grizzman]

You think a reaction rod is good enough?

Since the reaction rod interfaces with the barrel extension, no torque will be transferred to the receiver.

[PrarieDog]

Reaction rod would work. Barrel blocks can be made from wood if you don't have a rod.

[tehpwnag3]

I'm hoping your barrel extension is snug inside of the upper receiver. If not, use Loctite 243 or 609. Perform normal install process. I don't think there is a definitive torque range to worry much about (like, higher or lower produces better accuracy). Some years ago, the AMU standard was 60ft/lbs.. Not sure if that changed. I prefer closer to 40ft/lbs..

On my precision builds, I use shims from Advanced Armament and Rocksett on the muzzle device. Completely degrease the threads with brake cleaner. I choose a shim that allows the MD to almost time by hand. Season the threads with light back and forth torque. You may need to choose a slightly thicker shim at this point. The final torque is about 10-15 ft/lbs..

It's best to match the bolt to the barrel extension, but you may not have that option. Some high-end barrels are sold with the bolt for this reason.

[dhena81]

I'm hoping your barrel extension is snug inside of the upper receiver. If not, use Loctite 243 or 609. Perform normal install process. I don't think there is a definitive torque range to worry much about (like, higher or lower produces better accuracy). Some years ago, the AMU standard was 60ft/lbs.. Not sure if that changed. I prefer closer to 40ft/lbs..

On my precision builds, I use shims from Advanced Armament and Rocksett on the muzzle device. Completely degrease the threads with brake cleaner. I choose a shim that allows the MD to almost time by hand. Season the threads with light back and forth torque. You may need to choose a slightly thicker shim at this point. The final torque is about 10-15 ft/lbs..

It's best to match the bolt to the barrel extension, but you may not have that option. Some high-end barrels are sold with the bolt for this reason.

Do such manufactures actually headspace the bolt to the barrel extension?

[Jmedic_]

I recently bought the reaction rod for my new build, changed my life. Never going back! I believe botach has a reaction rod that is cheaper, if you’re looking to save some money, and it probably functions identically to the reaction rod. But I was sold once I saw it interfaces w/ the ramps and takes the pressure off the receiver. Plus, you can slide the upper to any position for ease of installation for various things.

[turnburglar]

Do you think I could get away with just using barrel blocks for the barrel nut and flash hider?

I will be using an ALG rail and plan on following their torque method using the shims.

[Kenneth]

Do you think I could get away with just using barrel blocks for the barrel nut and flash hider?

I will be using an ALG rail and plan on following their torque method using the shims.

We all used to build AR’s before the reaction rod was a thing.

I still use blocks for my upper builds.


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