View Full Version : Finally having my pole barn built!
Contractor came over yesterday. Going to order the material Monday. Going to be 30'x40' w/12' ceiling. Going to have a 10'x10' room in the back for a compressor room (keep the noise out of the main area).
I'm going with 12' ceiling so I can put a 10k lbs. lift in. My days of bending and crawling under cars, trucks, ATVs, zero turns and such are over. Can't wait! :D
NYH1.
Edited ***changed inches " to feet ' and I meant to put 10k lbs. lift not 10 ton.*** :rolleyes:
I don't know your situation, but having put up a couple of outbuildings that I spend a lot of time in: Even if it isn't in your immediate plan, have the contractor put drops for sewer and water through the foundation.
I don't know your situation, but having put up a couple of outbuildings that I spend a lot of time in: Even if it isn't in your immediate plan, have the contractor put drops for sewer and water through the foundation.
Absolutely. And a floor drain.
ETA:
I have a buddy that has a spray-foam insulation business. That is an amazingly effective technique that is ideally suited to pole buildings.
Not sure of any compressor that'll fit in a 10 inch square room. 😂
Congrats on the the new building
1_click_off
11-22-17, 14:13
It will make you sick to your stomach how much you spent getting it put up and how quickly it goes up. You will almost feel cheated, but there is not a chance I would try to put one up with my 12pack friends!
If pouring a slab, make sure you pour thick enough and reinforce where your lift will bolt to.
Also, for my driveway 3,965sq ft, it was only another $600 for wire mesh, $220 to go from 3000psi to 4000psi, and just a few dollars to put the fibermesh in it.
Make sure you get the lift supports right, otherwise you will be busting squares out and digging and pouring deep.
My buddy owns an excavating business, he recommended I put a sewer pipe in as well. It's not going to be heated unless we're in it. It gets down below zero sometimes in the winter here. I'd have to have so type of sewer pump because it would be lower then my septic system which is about 75/80 feet away.
It's going to be 30' deep. I can't go any deeper then that. Then 40' wide with three overhead doors. The two outer doors are going to be 9'x9' and the center door is going to be 10'x10'. The companies that make the lifts I'm looking at recommend at least 6" of concrete to mount the lift in. I'll have them pour it thicker then that though.
I thought about going 48' wide. That would get close to the house though. Being that we'll be welding and cutting while working on different projects, I think leaving a bit more space between the house and pole barn is a good idea. If something happens in the pole barn/garage, we'll still have a place to sleep. ;)
NYH1.
1_click_off
11-22-17, 14:46
I know you want them separated, but where I live just a simple covered walkway that connects the 2 structures roofs allows for the shop and contents to be covered under your home owners policy. Just something to toy with.
Not sure how that would work with a pole barn though.
I know you want them separated, but where I live just a simple covered walkway that connects the 2 structures roofs allows for the shop and contents to be covered under your home owners policy. Just something to toy with.
Not sure how that would work with a pole barn though.
I'll have to think about that, thanks.
NYH1.
LMT Shooter
11-22-17, 15:50
How often will you be in this building? I ask because you talked about heat, and around my way, lots of folks going with hot water floor heat. It is expensive, but everyone I know who has it says that it is the best money they spent on the building. It is slow to heat up- some say days- but all my buds who did it LOVE it.
I know the feeling. I waited 15 years to build my shop. I'm still working on it, but it's almost done. I'm glad I waited, I was able to do it the way I wanted to without cutting corners. I put in a full bathroom with shower so I didn't bring the mess into the house, infloor heat, 16' ceilings (I have tall equipment to work on), and bright ass LED lights. I weighed the expense of a compressor room, but decided to put the money into a compressor and bought a rotary screw compressor that is only 65db while running.
I actually teared up a bit the first time I ran the garage door up. Congrats man, I think a shop is to us men that a nice house is to a lot of women.
How often will you be in this building? I ask because you talked about heat, and around my way, lots of folks going with hot water floor heat. It is expensive, but everyone I know who has it says that it is the best money they spent on the building. It is slow to heat up- some say days- but all my buds who did it LOVE it.
I did it in my shop. In our old shop we would pull a semi tractor into the shop and it was two days for the floor to dry if melting the truck off.. Ceiling mounted forced air. In my new shop, the same truck took 8 hrs to thaw completely out and the floor was dry. Well worth the expense if you can swing it, but it should be on all the time in the winter.
Travelingchild
11-22-17, 15:58
As it sounds like you’ll be working on vehicles, I second the in floor heat. Remember you can always install the Pex tubing before the concrete pour and ad the boilers as finances permit. That way the infrastructure is in place when you decide to add heat. Also if local regulations allow it I recommend a quality waste oil furnace might as put all those vehicle oil changes to use along with all your friends vehicles who you will working on.:D or just people who do their own but need to get rid of it.
I'm going to use a woodstove with a blower as my main source of heat. I have access to all the wood I need (use wood in the house too). I might add a propane force air heater to heat it up to temperature quicker. Not going to get to fancy though.
Thanks, NYH1.
1_click_off
11-22-17, 16:27
Was going to suggest the floor heat earlier, but after building my house I kind of got tired of the six thousand suggestions on how folks would spend my money for me.
Very important when doing the floor heat, zones. My uncle has a very nice shop for his buildings he builds. He spent extra money on valve manifolds so he could isolate zones if a pipe failed or he wanted more/less heat in an area.
He said his guys working on the floor had the number of days they called in sick dramatically reduced. This was 30 some years ago when he built. Back then I think it was plastic coated soft tube copper they put in the slab. I remember the heating system looking like a 2 speed pump mounted on top of a huge water heater. He was in ND.
But my portable diesel fueled forced air heater had no issues keeping a 4 bay shop warm with 1 bay opening and closing every 15 minutes. But this was only 20deg F outdoor temps.
titsonritz
11-22-17, 16:33
If you ever plan to pull in an RV you might want to go with 14' ceiling and 12' tall door.
I'm going to use a woodstove with a blower as my main source of heat. I have access to all the wood I need (use wood in the house too). I might add a propane force air heater to heat it up to temperature quicker. Not going to get to fancy though.
Thanks, NYH1.
Outdoor wood boiler :D You opened up a can of worms NYH1.. now everyone is going to tell you how to do it.
LMT Shooter
11-22-17, 17:10
If you are not going to be in the building regularly, floor heat may be more than you want to spend. The buildings that I know have it are either occupied regularly or were built by someone who was not on a tight budget.
I'm jealous. I have been wanting to add a lift in my garage since I moved in. Stupidly I thought a 3 car garage would be big enough instead of a full basement. Now I want to build a house with a 2 car attached and a detached 3 door garage (middle door being a taller double door). I did run a compressed air system, so nice keeping the compressor as far away as possible. Good luck and post pics! You're probably on pirate4x4 but lots of good ideas on shops there too (like you need help on ideas).
1_click_off
11-22-17, 18:35
Why are you all wasting room inside your shops for a compressor room? I would pour a small pad outside, frame it and skin it to let that beast live out there. Fully plumb the shop of course. Put a door from shop into compressor shack if you need access from the shop side.
If you ever plan to pull in an RV you might want to go with 14' ceiling and 12' tall door.
I'm not an RV kind of guy so 12' ceils are fine. Thanks.
Outdoor wood boiler :D You opened up a can of worms NYH1.. now everyone is going to tell you how to do it.
That might happen someday if I ever go with that type of system in the house. I could heat both with it. Not going to happen anytime soon though.
If you are not going to be in the building regularly, floor heat may be more than you want to spend. The buildings that I know have it are either occupied regularly or were built by someone who was not on a tight budget.
Yeah, this is going to be more of a hobby shop. Work on my Camaro (FINALLY!), my zero turn, snow plows, ATV's, do gun work that kind of stuff.
Oh yeah, I'm not telling the wife I'm having it built. Think she'll notice it?:rolleyes:
NYH1.
I'm jealous. I have been wanting to add a lift in my garage since I moved in. Stupidly I thought a 3 car garage would be big enough instead of a full basement. Now I want to build a house with a 2 car attached and a detached 3 door garage (middle door being a taller double door). I did run a compressed air system, so nice keeping the compressor as far away as possible. Good luck and post pics! You're probably on pirate4x4 but lots of good ideas on shops there too (like you need help on ideas).
My wife wanted to have a garage built that attached to the house. I told her not one that I'd be working in. I weld and use cutting torches. It's one thing to burn the garage down. It's another to burn the house down. She'd really be pissed if I did that....and she don't hardly ever get mad at me. We ain't going down that road.
NYH1.
Why are you all wasting room inside your shops for a compressor room? I would pour a small pad outside, frame it and skin it to let that beast live out there. Fully plumb the shop of course. Put a door from shop into compressor shack if you need access from the shop side.
I already have a concrete pad that will end up being right behind my pole barn so I'm going to make good use of it and build a compressor room on it. Try to keep as much clutter out of the main building as I can.
NYH1.
LowSpeed_HighDrag
11-22-17, 20:19
PICTURES please and thank you.
PICTURES please and thank you.
I'll have to try and figure that out. I'm extremely electronically challenged as my son says. Every time I ask him for help with the computer or my phone, he tells me it's just easier to change the subject. To think I gave him my name! :confused:
NYH1.
Well I was telling our two German Shepherds and Lab about the project. That their fenced in part of the yard is going to more then double because it's going to go around most of the pole barn. They seem pleased.
Plus when we're in it they'll get to come and go as they please....which means they'll be in it with us. My big GSD has a car tire he carries around. Guess I'll have to hang any good tires we'll have up.
So this really will be fun for the whole family! :D
NYH1.
Had a buddy in Minnesota who built a shop for his transmission business and used propane radiant heat and loved it. Heats the floor and whatever is in the shop and avoids loosing all the warm air when an overhead door is opened. Just thought I'd throw it out for folks to consider.
We are building a house and I'm dreaming of the day when I can build a shop. Already have a good idea of what I'll need including a 3/4 bathroom and floor drains.
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Hey Buck, my friend has a body shop, his building is huge compared to what I'm building. His paint both alone is probably more then half the size of mine and it only takes up a faction of his floor space. He has radiant heat and it does work really well.
Thanks, NYH1.
Had a buddy in Minnesota who built a shop for his transmission business and used propane radiant heat and loved it. Heats the floor and whatever is in the shop and avoids loosing all the warm air when an overhead door is opened. Just thought I'd throw it out for folks to consider.
Yeh, in Minnesota we pay attention to heating and insulation. In-floor radiant is ideal. When I built my workshop, I put the tubing in the floor, just in case. Finally hooked it up to a natural gas boiler about 5-6 years later. I’m glad I had the option. Wood is, eventually, a pain. I like being able to always keep the shop at 50 degrees and turn it up only when I’m in there. I also like that it doesn’t blow dust around, there’s not soot on the walls, and I especially like that I don’t have to chop wood and keep a furnace stoked. The thermostat is remote...just pull it up on the phone and tell the garage to be at 70 degrees when I get out there.
I appreciate all the replies and suggestions. I'm not going to have the concrete floor poured until the spring. So I have time to think about different heating systems to complement the woodstove. Thanks guys.
Happy Thanksgiving, NYH1.
LowSpeed_HighDrag
11-23-17, 11:25
I had a custom home built this year, which we are now in. My garage is 1500 sqft, nothing fancy but twice the size of our last garage. I had it fully insulated R-15, but declined to add a heater of some kind. I will say this, the garage in these cold Colorado mornings is 20* warmer than the outside. That is very nice, but when it is -10*, 10* isn't really that nice lol. I wish I had done either a space heater, or radiant floor heating. Too late now as far as the floor goes...
I had a custom home built this year, which we are now in. My garage is 1500 sqft, nothing fancy but twice the size of our last garage. I had it fully insulated R-15, but declined to add a heater of some kind. I will say this, the garage in these cold Colorado mornings is 20* warmer than the outside. That is very nice, but when it is -10*, 10* isn't really that nice lol. I wish I had done either a space heater, or radiant floor heating. Too late now as far as the floor goes...
Just last week I got some bids to install heat for our 750 sq ft attached garage. $1900 for a 60,000 btu natural gas ceiling-mounted heater. The garage was insulated R21 when we built the house but never heated. I had the floor finished this past summer using polyurea/polyaspartic and now it's pretty usable even in the winter. My wife won't me heat the garage on an ad hoc basis using the salamander because noise and kerosene smell. Natural gas it is.
Travelingchild
11-23-17, 14:17
My point if you install the floor heat tubing it’s there for future use also you can tie it into a wood fired boiler or propane if u desire at a later date. Best of luck on whatever rout you choose.
LMT Shooter
11-23-17, 15:00
My point if you install the floor heat tubing it’s there for future use also you can tie it into a wood fired boiler or propane if u desire at a later date. Best of luck on whatever rout you choose.
I was told to insulate under the concrete to do it right, as well. Doing those things now will not add too much to the cost up front, if you do it yourself, and there ain't much to those parts.
Insulation under the slab is important. Without under slab insulation you are heating a portion of the ground as well. How much really depends on the temperature of the soil. With insulation under it, the heat is used properly radiating from the slab inside the insulated building. I'm a big supporter of insulating under a slab in cold climates regardless of what heating system is used.
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