6.5Creedmoor, to brake or not brake?

[5.56Geo]

A two part question here. Does a brake help the 6.5Creedmoore enough to recover from the recoil to see bullet impact? Does a brake really help grouping. I have heard that brakes help and can also open up your group. What has been your expirance? Thanks for the help.

Thoughts....?

[gunnerblue]

I’ve only ever shot my Creedmoor suppresssed, so cant really answer your first question. Bullet weights for this round are most commonly in the 120-140 gr weight- so not very heavy. I’d say that the weight of your rifle and the particular brake vs others would have the most effect.

A properly installed brake should do nothing to affect group size. It may affect follow-through, which in turn affect the group, but that would be on the shooter.

[BMWguy206]

A two part question here. Does a brake help the 6.5Creedmoore enough to recover from the recoil to see bullet impact? Does a brake really help grouping. I have heard that brakes help and can also open up your group. What has been your expirance? Thanks for the help.

Thoughts....?

I have a Bergara HMR in 6.5CM with an Area 419 HellFire muzzle brake. At 600 yards, the recoil is minimal where I can see the impacts but the side blast is very loud. I am curious myself in how the recoil would be without the muzzle brake so I took it off but haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but I plan to later this week.

[Dist. Expert 26]

If you want to reliably spot your own shots a good brake or can is a must. There's a reason every gun at a PRS match has one or the other.

[Kenneth]

I run have ran a SilencerCo ASR brake and a Dead Air brake with and without a can.

I can spot my hits at 400 yards pretty easy. If I really get behind the rifle and dig in my bipod 300 yards is possible.

I would say the brake is more effective but the suppressor recoil is more straight back.


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[Pappabear]

Brakes just work real well. They help everything a lot. Only downside is blasting your amigos or blasting up Mother Earth causing disturbance. All my guns except 22’s have a brake or can.

Group size should not open up.

Brakes are GTG IMHO.

PB

[HD1911]

A two part question here. Does a brake help the 6.5Creedmoore enough to recover from the recoil to see bullet impact? Does a brake really help grouping. I have heard that brakes help and can also open up your group. What has been your expirance? Thanks for the help.

Thoughts....?

At what distances can you not see impact from shooting a 6.5 creed? From what firing positions? How heavy is your rig? I ask, because maybe your fundamentals being nailed down for proper recoil mitigation/follow-thru (posture/form) might be something to look at and improve, before you go to installing a brake. Braked/Non-braked concerning groups really is a non-issue, provided everything has been done right.

[5.56Geo]

At what distances can you not see impact from shooting a 6.5 creed? From what firing positions? How heavy is your rig? I ask, because maybe your fundamentals being nailed down for proper recoil mitigation/follow-thru (posture/form) might be something to look at and improve, before you go to installing a brake. Braked/Non-braked concerning groups really is a non-issue, provided everything has been done right.

I will start from the beginning...
This is my first distance/precision rifle (Remmy 700 AAC-SD), a Christmas gift from the wife. I have never shot the 6.5Creedmoor. I will be shooting it primarily from a bench or prone ranging from 100 to 1200 yards. I have reloaded for years, not sure if that is important? As far as fundamentals I'll be learning from several extended range shooters in my area I shoot with.

I will be assembling it on Saturday. This is what I have already;
Remington 700 AAC-SD in 6.5Creedmoor
KRG Bravo stock
Timney 510 trigger
EGW 30MOA base
Vortex Match medium scope rings
Vortex 4x16x44 Viper HS-T MRAD scope
Harris bipod

I was going to buy a brake but will shoot it first and see how it fares. The rifle will also be shot before the stock is changed.

Thanks for the help guys.

[user]

If you want to reliably spot your own shots a good brake or can is a must. There's a reason every gun at a PRS match has one or the other.

Agree. Particularly on closer targets.

[Kenneth]

Get prone, dig your bipod legs in the ground, load your bipod, pull rifle in shoulder, use your body straight behind the gun to soak up the recoil. You will be able to spot your own hits pretty easy with good form but it will be a lot easier with a brake as the rifle moves much less.


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[voiceofreason]

I've run 6.5CM with both can & brake. I prefer running a can personally (TBAC Ultra 7)

In case you don't, make sure to run your magnification out. Don't zoom into the target at 25x, 15x works out to 1000, lower magnification makes it much easier to spot your own hits/misses. Helps to have a dusty background as well.

As a friend to spot for you as well initially until you find your sweet spot for magnification.

If you're not interested in getting a silencer, I'd definitely get a brake. Don't go cheap. Get one of the best brakes you can. Anything in the top 5, but skip any of the mediocre or lower end ones.

I've never known groups to open up with a brake or can. My groups are always smaller with a good brake over a bare muzzle.

[VIP3R 237]

Kind of a necro but what brakes does everyone like for their 6.5cm? I’ve been shooting my lrp without one and I’d like to be able to spot hits (and misses) a little better.

[Pappabear]

I have an AAC can so the adapter is a very effective brake. The shorter double chamber is the best. Ive shot a light 300WM with that brake and no issues. Any decent brake should be good to go.

PB

[markm]

If you want to reliably spot your own shots a good brake or can is a must.

It helps, but not a must on a 6.5 CM.

I'd do it if I shot the gun a lot, and I didn't have to pay a fortune for the work... AND... if I didn't have to leave the gun at the smith for months on end.

Any of those criteria not met, and I'd forget about it.

[officerX]

I have an AAC can so the adapter is a very effective brake. The shorter double chamber is the best. Ive shot a light 300WM with that brake and no issues. Any decent brake should be good to go.

PB

PM sent.

[gaijin]

I read somewhere that a .30 cal brake is 85% as efficient on a 6.5.
My experience would support this.

[diving dave]

I'm running a 30 cal thunderbeast CB brake on my 6.5x47, and it seems to work great.

[Achilles11B]

I’m in a similar spot as the OP. If you do decide to brake, I’m interested in hearing which one you went with.

[pointblank4445]

Kind of a necro but what brakes does everyone like for their 6.5cm? I’ve been shooting my lrp without one and I’d like to be able to spot hits (and misses) a little better.

APA Little Bastard
Area 419 Hellfire
Insight Heathen

Unless you get into suppressor mounted, those are the best on the market as of this date. I think Area 419 might have a TB compatible, but I'm not sure.

Never tried a Hellfire. APA LB is probably the best for recoil reduction but one of the worst for concussion (and debris) back to the shooter. Heathen is far more pleasant (for the shooter) but you still get 85-90% of the APA without the abuse.

[Bullz]

I use a JP recoil eliminator on my 6.5. It keeps me flat to spot my hits.

Check this muzzle break evaluation: https://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/21/muzzle-brake-summary-of-field-test-results/

[msr]

I read somewhere that a .30 cal brake is 85% as efficient on a 6.5.
My experience would support this.

Author claims only a 1-3% difference with a caliber specific (6.5 to .30 caliber) brake;

https://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/07/07/muzzle-brakes-recoil-results-for-6mm-6-5mm/

[gaijin]

^^ This may be so.

I'm not familiar with the "6-XC" cartridge. I do know muzzle brakes work off of gas volume; the more gas, the more efficient the comp- irregardless of design.

I am able to spot my own hits at 400 yds. with a .30 cal "SILENCERCO SPECWAR/OMEGA TRIFECTA" brake on a 6.5 CM.
I have use a Precision Armament M4-72 .30 cal comp on the 6.5's as well. It was extremely efficient, but was absurdly obnoxious re. muzzle blast.

[Don Quijote]

A two part question here. Does a brake help the 6.5Creedmoore enough to recover from the recoil to see bullet impact? Does a brake really help grouping. I have heard that brakes help and can also open up your group. What has been your expirance? Thanks for the help.

Thoughts....?

The answer you your first question is absolutely yes with several caveats
1. The closer the target is, the more the brake helps because there is less time between the firing pin hitting the primer and the bullet reaching the target. Meaning that there is less time to recover from a less than perfect recoil jump. Also, for a given magnification, the linear field of view shrinks the closer the target is. Meaning it you have to control recoil more effectively to minimize sideways jump at closer distances than you would farther away. Hard to explain but easy to see what I'm talking about from behind the rifle.

2. You can certainly spot your shots with an unbraked 6.5 Creedmoor. I (and lots of others) can do it with an unbraked 308. But it takes a much more refined position behind the rifle and recoil control to make sure the rifle recoils straight back without any sideways hop or jump. A brake buys you a little slack, but it won't make up for a really crappy position/recoil control.

As for what a brake does for accuracy, I have found (in a sample of one) that it did not affect accuracy negatively at all. It did change point of impact, which is no big deal as it is a one time adjustment to the elevation and windage turrets and slipping the caps to line up with zero again. I do think a brake makes it easier to get the best accuracy out of the rifle for the simple fact that it makes the rifle more comfortable to shoot and that leads to less tension in the shooter.

Last, I'd be wary of any claims that brake X is Y% better/worse than brake Z without seeing objective evidence (test data).

[Don Quijote]

I have use a Precision Armament M4-72 .30 cal comp on the 6.5's as well. It was extremely efficient, but was absurdly obnoxious re. muzzle blast.
I was going to buy one of those when I saw this test:
http://youtu.be/0qDf6Xf0rR4

But changed my mind when almost every single comment about it was like yours......

[gaijin]

Gospel bro.

Perhaps on a dedicated competition gun, but the ROs would hate you.

[Don Quijote]

Gospel bro.

Perhaps on a dedicated competition gun, but the ROs would hate you.

Is it really that brutal towards the back?

[gaijin]

I have them on a couple 5.56 guns, that are dedicated competition guns.
I wear plugs and muffs. I don’t notice much difference between the m4-72 and a flash hider behind the gun.
The ROs and spectators do.

I had this same brake on a .308 AR.
We were set up in a pasture, shooting at some distance.
What shocked me was- with the first rd. the directed gasses cut a sunflower stalk, nearly in half, that was at least 5/8” in diameter.

They do shoot flat though.

[Don Quijote]

I have them on a couple 5.56 guns, that are dedicated competition guns.
I wear plugs and muffs. I don’t notice much difference between the m4-72 and a flash hider behind the gun.
The ROs and spectators do.

I had this same brake on a .308 AR.
We were set up in a pasture, shooting at some distance.
What shocked me was- with the first rd. the directed gasses cut a sunflower stalk, nearly in half, that was at least 5/8” in diameter.

They do shoot flat though.

Ya my LR shooting partenr would hate me

[Bubba FAL]

I put an Ultradyne Apollo Max on my Savage Desert Tactical in 6.5 Creedmoor. It is very effective at reducing muzzle rise. Big difference vs. non-braked. The blast can be... disconcerting if not ready for it. Foamies under the muffs is strongly recommended.

[gaijin]

Plugs and muffs make a difference.