is one 270 to 360 degree turn with an A2 flash hider enough to secure it?

[heavygunner8]

Maybe my google-fu is just weak, couldn't find any positive answer on this. I am using a BCM Mod 1 Comp, it came with a crush washer. My question is, is a 3/4 circle (270 degree) to 1 circle (360 degree) turn, once hand tightened, enough to secure the flash hider such that it won't untorque itself during gun operation?

sorry, I should add, the reason 270 to 360 is because that's the amount past hand tighten that I can clock the flash hider correctly.

[opngrnd]

If I understand what you're saying, I'd say yes. Did you use any grease on the threads? I usually make sure to coat the threads and both sides of the washer with a little bit of grease.

[heavygunner8]

If I understand what you're saying, I'd say yes. Did you use any grease on the threads? I usually make sure to coat the threads and both sides of the washer with a little bit of grease.

I used aeroshell 33ms on the threads of the barrel.

Okay I should add a little more detail, I originally had a A2 flash hider. Due to been a noob, I torqued flashhider 2 full circles (which is max for the muzzle brake crush washers) to get it into the right "clock" alignment. It stayed like that for a few days, and I decided to replace it with the BCM mod 1 comp. During that time, I learned that it can affect accuracy if I over torque it, so this time I went with just hand tighten then torque to the right orientation with the BCM logo on top, which brings me to about a 270 - 360 degree turn from hand tighten.

Please tell me I didn't damage my Daniel Defense barrel lol.

[GrumpyM4]

Your barrel is fine.

The standard is a minimum of 90 degrees, max of 450 degrees.

[MistWolf]

Take that crush washer and throw it as far as you can. Get a shim set (not a peel washer) to properly clock your muzzle device.

No two crush washers feel the same when installing muzzle devices and sometimes they don't crush evenly. If it gets crushed too far, it will swell into the threads making it difficult to remove later on. If you over clock the muzzle device, you can't just back it off because it's been crushed too much. If you go around one more time, it's likely to swell into the barrel threads.

Shims take a little more effort to clock, but if over clocked, you can just back off and start again. If you have to remove the muzzle device just use the same shims on installation.

[opngrnd]

Not to sound like I'm talking out of both sides of my mouth, but I also always use shim sets now. They are easy to use and take all the guess work out of it. Google Accu-washer.

[GH41]

https://precisionarmament.com/product/accu-washer-system/

[markm]

Depends on the crush washer. Some are harder than others. I torque by common sense and feel. You can just feel when something is right after doing a few of these.

Never heard of Aeroshell 33 for this. There's no chance for galvanic corrosion, so I'm not sure why moly grease would apply.

[hk_shootr]

Shim set, I prefer PWS, and some Rockset

[markm]

Shim set, I prefer PWS, and some Rockset

I like the shim sets. I used to be a glutten for punishment and use the peel washers. Rockset for silencer mounts.. flash hiders, I just torque.

[SomeOtherGuy]

OP: yes that is fine.

Crush washers work fine if you stop at the right point. But once you use a shim set you won't use crush washers much any more. Lately I only use them when I'm reinstalling an A2 on a barrel or upper that I'm going to sell.

[ScottsBad]

It depends on the quality of the crush washer. Generally, I tighten against the crush washer until I'm at 270 to 180 degrees from proper clock, and then I back off a quarter turn, then tighten to the final position. But it depends on the crush washer, some are cheap crap. I've started using exclusively YHM crush washers because they always work well for me and crush consistently.

About shims; I just find them a pain in the arse and since I've never had a muzzle device come loose I just don't use shims. Unless I was using a suppressor, then I would use shims with rockset I guess.

Any kind of grease or oil will work on the threads and washer. I just use gun oil.

[Tigwelder1971]

Crush washers do not require torquing. Properly time it and be done.

Regardless of what some do, CWs are not designed to be loosened and retightened. Check the TM.

[bamashooter]

I used aeroshell 33ms on the threads of the barrel.

Okay I should add a little more detail, I originally had a A2 flash hider. Due to been a noob, I torqued flashhider 2 full circles (which is max for the muzzle brake crush washers) to get it into the right "clock" alignment. It stayed like that for a few days, and I decided to replace it with the BCM mod 1 comp. During that time, I learned that it can affect accuracy if I over torque it, so this time I went with just hand tighten then torque to the right orientation with the BCM logo on top, which brings me to about a 270 - 360 degree turn from hand tighten.

Please tell me I didn't damage my Daniel Defense barrel lol.
Help me here please. Regarding the older A2 muzzle device, you state that you went 720* (2 full circles) to align / clock the device. I assume this is from the hand-tightened position. Why did the "clocking" not occur before the first 360*? I must be missing something here. Two complete rotations? Thanks.

[GH41]

Help me here please. Regarding the older A2 muzzle device, you state that you went 720* (2 full circles) to align / clock the device. I assume this is from the hand-tightened position. Why did the "clocking" not occur before the first 360*? I must be missing something here. Two complete rotations? Thanks.

Probably because he missed it the first time around.