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Zeke1985
03-18-18, 16:24
I stripped a rra lower and put the bcm enhanced lower kit in. How is rra lower by itself compared to a bcm? Are they made to the same specs? Talking about the actual lower not the parts inside. Or should I get a bcm complete lower to go with my bcm upper and have as much as possible mil spec. Thanks.

Eurodriver
03-18-18, 16:28
You didn’t tell us how or if it functions, so it is impossible for us to know.

Zeke1985
03-18-18, 16:33
You didn’t tell us how or if it functions, so it is impossible for us to know.

Whoops, it functions fine.

Averageman
03-18-18, 16:55
If the lower parts went out and in and everything fit fine and without issue, honestly I would overlook the roll mark and run the hell out of it.
Not all lowers are created equal, but spec is spec. Why worry about it?

Todd.K
03-18-18, 17:02
It's really hard to get a bad (out of spec) lower these days, probably more like this decade.

CLee0509
03-18-18, 17:06
I don't see any reason why you would have stripped the original parts out except to change trigger/hammer, grip, extended this or that etc. Lower parts are not all created equal between brands, but I have yet to break any pins or wear out any springs from a multitude of sources. Personally I would have just replaced as needed. I used a Strike Industries kit once, until I saw the mag release thread was metric so I swapped it with Colt one.

Eurodriver
03-18-18, 17:12
I don't see any reason why you would have stripped the original parts out except to change trigger/hammer, grip, extended this or that etc. Lower parts are not all created equal between brands, but I have yet to break any pins or wear out any springs from a multitude of sources. Personally I would have just replaced as needed. I used a Strike Industries kit once, until I saw the mag release thread was metric so I swapped it with Colt one.

I have had lowers made with off brand parts kits (DPMS, specifically) have retaining pin springs and bolt catch springs rust causing it to be literally impossible to disassemble the rifle by hand and zero bolt lock back.

It only took one shooting trip on the ocean (T1s really are waterproof FYI) for that to happen, and it was thoroughly rinsed with hot water when I got back too. I only use Colt LPKs now.

CLee0509
03-18-18, 17:17
I have had lowers made with off brand parts kits (DPMS, specifically) have retaining pin springs and bolt catch springs rust causing it to be literally impossible to disassemble the rifle by hand and zero bolt lock back.

It only took one shooting trip on the ocean (T1s really are waterproof FYI) for that to happen, and it was thoroughly rinsed with hot water when I got back too. I only use Colt LPKs now.

I can believe it, you do get what you pay for, for sure....luckily I haven't experienced this yet.

noonesshowmonkey
03-18-18, 18:10
It only took one shooting trip on the ocean (T1s really are waterproof FYI) for that to happen, and it was thoroughly rinsed with hot water when I got back too. I only use Colt LPKs now.

Still Euro. (https://youtu.be/x7yPhExdj3E)

Gangsta.

hotrodder636
03-18-18, 20:27
What Euro says is good advice. There are some other good LPK makers;LMT, BCM. I personally use the BCM and have yet to have issues*.

*Disclaimer: I have not swam in salt water with any of my ARs.

jpmuscle
03-18-18, 20:30
Still Ero. (https://youtu.be/x7yPhExdj3E)

Gangsta.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/d2f7c0658012675cca3c39e07a9db765.jpg



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kirkland
03-18-18, 22:19
Whoops, it functions fine.

Keep it then. Put an upper on and shoot.

ccosby
03-19-18, 00:56
Not sure who makes the lowers for RRA now but the old ones were CMT and were fine. I'd expect the new ones to be as well. Maybe its magwell isn't as flared as others, maybe it is. That is the only thing I'd think one would notice. Now personally I'd ditch the rra star safety as I've always hated it. If it had their 2 stage trigger I'd want it out as well as I had a bunch of friends with them and they all failed(this was years ago, maybe they fixed them). The only big thing that RRA did in the past that pissed me off was that they used a commercial spec buffer tube and ****ing used red thread locker on it instead of staking. Not sure if they still do that or not as I haven't seen a complete one in years.

Really though unless something is wrong with the RRA lower or you don't like something about it(in my case their star safety) shoot it and rock on. No need to replace it unless you just hate the roll mark or something(or the company after the stuff they pulled)


I don't see any reason why you would have stripped the original parts out except to change trigger/hammer, grip, extended this or that etc. Lower parts are not all created equal between brands, but I have yet to break any pins or wear out any springs from a multitude of sources. Personally I would have just replaced as needed. I used a Strike Industries kit once, until I saw the mag release thread was metric so I swapped it with Colt one.

You can feel the difference.


I have had lowers made with off brand parts kits (DPMS, specifically) have retaining pin springs and bolt catch springs rust causing it to be literally impossible to disassemble the rifle by hand and zero bolt lock back.

It only took one shooting trip on the ocean (T1s really are waterproof FYI) for that to happen, and it was thoroughly rinsed with hot water when I got back too. I only use Colt LPKs now.

I've noticed issues with the feel of some of the pins in cheaper kits. I've swapped PSA springs and detents for colt or armalite ones and the takedown pins feel smoother(usually replacing the takedown pins as well). It was something I wasn't really expecting until I helped some friends assemble lowers and noticed it.

Using a sionics, bcm, colt, or something like lmt parts and the issue goes away. Triggers were another area although now the pnt triggers in like the bcm or sionics kit is just a no brainier unless you are going to use an aftermarket. In the past the LMT mil spec style triggers always felt better to me than most others.

MistWolf
03-19-18, 04:07
I stripped a rra lower and put the bcm enhanced lower kit in. How is rra lower by itself compared to a bcm? Are they made to the same specs? Talking about the actual lower not the parts inside. Or should I get a bcm complete lower to go with my bcm upper and have as much as possible mil spec. Thanks.

Order a complete BCM lower. Use the RRA lower to shoot until the BCM lower comes in. When it does, mate it to your BCM upper and go shoot. Put your RRA lower in the safe until the second upper you ordered comes in. When it does, go shoot both ARs. Easy.

Eurodriver
03-19-18, 11:25
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/d2f7c0658012675cca3c39e07a9db765.jpg

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Steg.

I challenge the “just as good as” folks to bring their ARs out on an aquasport 10 miles offshore shooting in scuba gear and watch the orange ooze out of their lower receiver only days afterward.

Tx_Aggie
03-19-18, 12:42
Order a complete BCM lower. Use the RRA lower to shoot until the BCM lower comes in. When it does, mate it to your BCM upper and go shoot. Put your RRA lower in the safe until the second upper you ordered comes in. When it does, go shoot both ARs. Easy.

This is what I would do. Or better yet, get one of the Colt lowers currently in stock at Brownells:

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/lower-receivers/ar-15-m4-complete-lower-receiver-5-56mm-prod109740.aspx


But I agree that there is no reason to get rid of your perfectly good RRA lower.

noonesshowmonkey
03-19-18, 13:44
Steg.

I challenge the “just as good as” folks to bring their ARs out on an aquasport 10 miles offshore shooting in scuba gear and watch the orange ooze out of their lower receiver only days afterward.

Add a few beers afterwards, and access to some good looking women, and you have a slice of heaven there.

Count me in on that hoodrattery.

I wonder how an Aero lower parts kit stacks up in terms of coatings and durability when exposed to seawater? Or ALG. Or anyone, for that matter. Considering a fate involving seawater, I can see why one would say "Colt", and then the conversation stops. Unless, that is, you know of a maker that specifically uses saltwater resistant coatings for all of their parts.

Averageman
03-19-18, 15:15
I can see how an in spec lower is, or should be the same manufacturer to manufacturer.
I can also understand how LPK's could wildly different in the quality of fit, finish and coatings.
I've handled perhaps tens of thousands of machined parts in my civilian career, with a decade or so of experience, you can sometimes pick out the duds that made through QC by looking and feeling the quality of the machined pieces.
I bought an out of spec lower that came with a safety detent hole cut shallow and too narrow during the bad years a decade or so ago.
If my LPK started rusting due to exposure after one event, salt water or not, I would be pissed.

rocket 442
03-19-18, 20:42
I'm thinking of trying out the Voodoo VDI LPK's.

jpmuscle
03-20-18, 08:21
I'm thinking of trying out the Voodoo VDI LPK's.
Why? When there are known quantity values on the market


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Hammer_Man
03-20-18, 08:33
To the OP, BCM makes good stuff, and if your lower is functioning then I see no issues with running it.