View Full Version : How Would this Tool be Received?
I was up pretty late and it came to me that anytime I use roll pins on a new AR build that have been removed from an old build, installation is always smooth and the pins stay securely in place in the new gun, even after thousands of rounds down range.
I realize that using already slightly squished pins is not standard and is probably frowned upon, but it truly seems to come without draw backs: I've never seen one walk out.
I decided that I want to make a jig that allows you to pass new roll pins through their correct sized holes before installing them into an AR, so that the build process can be made even easier (if you work on a lot of guns).
I know that this is something that I would want and would use, and it's very simple as it's just a not-very-thick slab of metal with holes bored through it with a press, and perhaps sitting atop a base so that the pins can be passed through easily and then fall onto your bench.
So I have 2 questions:
1) Are there any actual drawbacks to using the pre-used pins? I haven't been able to make one walk out of a rifle over a pretty long period and lots of use, but that's just my experience.
2) Would anyone else be interested in such a tool, or is it a more niche thing and only valuable to me?
It's also very possible that this post is retarded and that there is zero interest in such a tool, and that using used pins is a very very very bad idea. I just want some feelers before I make one for myself.
1) Are there any actual drawbacks to using the pre-used pins?
According to guys here, the risks are monumental... and you're playing with fire. Although no one can point out any actual problems with doing this... at least as far as I've read.
I don't think it is something that would particularly interest me.
Other than the gas-tube and ejector roll-pins, the other roll pins are used in what I would call non-essential areas - trigger guard, forward assist, bolt catch (I'm assuming no sight roll pins). Sure, it would be nice to have a bolt catch, but you can run the rifle without it in a pinch. They also don't have a lot of stress on them.
You, do you, but I would never, ever, re-use a gas tube or ejector roll pin.
You can do several things to make roll pin installation easier: 1) make sure the piece you are working on is solidly supported; 2) use the right tools - properly sized pin holders and roll-pin punches, along with an appropriately weighted hammer; 3) lube the pin and hole - something as simple as punching the end of the pin into a bar of soap (like carpenters used to do when hammering finish nails into hardwood) will make a roll pin easier to install. Obviously, most folks putting an AR together have a more firearms related lube available, but it's not magic.
Additionally, roll-pins of any quality have beveled edges on the ends to make installation easier. The bevel can get somewhat altered by striking improperly, even with a roll-pin punch. Running them through a sizing fixture would increase the likelihood of that happening.
PeaShooter
05-03-18, 20:03
Additionally, roll-pins of any quality have beveled edges on the ends to make installation easier. The bevel can get somewhat altered by striking improperly, even with a roll-pin punch. Running them through a sizing fixture would increase the likelihood of that happening.
A little trick I've learned is to put the larger roll pins (trigger guard, bolt catch lever) into a drill motor chuck and using a metal file, put about a 45-degree bevel on them if there's not one already on it. A little oil on the pin certainly doesn't hurt either.
A set of knipex parallel pliers will blow your mind when installing roll pins.
PeaShooter
05-03-18, 20:31
A set of knipex parallel pliers will blow your mind when installing roll pins.
Yep....done it that way too. You just have to be careful not to pinch 'em too tight and get the end of the pin out-of-round.
I have used a C-clamp with great success.
I have seen re-used roll pins come loose several times. A trigger guard is no big deal. But smaller ones like the gas tube and ejector will come loose. Roll pins are cheap, if someone is really trying to save pennies, something is wrong.
I have seen re-used roll pins come loose several times. A trigger guard is no big deal. But smaller ones like the gas tube and ejector will come loose. Roll pins are cheap, if someone is really trying to save pennies, something is wrong.
I was thinking more along the lines of ease of installation.
I don't think I would do anything like this with the ejector roll pin, but I did think the gas tube pin would be fine. Thanks!
I still perform maintenance on other people's handguns, carbines and rifles and frequently use consumable items. I would not have a use for a jig to check roll pins, I use a caliper to check new roll pins before installation.
Roll pins, AKA spring pins, that have been installed on a firearm have already been pressed or pounded and will deform to some extent. Removing them from a firearm will distort them further. New roll pins are cheap insurance and I won't risk failure to save a few cents.
I view a roll pin no different than a Q Tip used to clean a rifle. Once it's used, it goes in the trash.
Talking about the Knipex and C-clamp route, these work also:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2pc-Compound-Leverage-Self-Adjusting-in-Tongue-and-Groove-Pliers/999957733?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-PliersAndWrenches-_-999957733:Kobalt&CAWELAID=&kpid=999957733&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1745&k_clickID=231a4412-b5b5-4520-9057-ed5d30c644d4&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6MfWvbPs2gIVS9bACh1aDA38EAYYASABEgIXofD_BwE
The Knipex has more leverage and is better made - from looking at them before I went the cheaper Lowes route.
It's also very possible that this post is retarded and that there is zero interest in such a tool, and that using used pins is a very very very bad idea.
This, although I think you already knew the answer to this question. Roll pins, dowel pins (or any time an interference fit is required) aren't supposed to be particularly easy to put in, nor hard with the right tools. As stated earlier a little oil doesn't hurt getting them in or out.
Pretty sure I wouldn't want to be using those since they have serrations on them, whereas the Knipex do not.
Talking about the Knipex and C-clamp route, these work also:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2pc-Compound-Leverage-Self-Adjusting-in-Tongue-and-Groove-Pliers/999957733?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-PliersAndWrenches-_-999957733:Kobalt&CAWELAID=&kpid=999957733&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1745&k_clickID=231a4412-b5b5-4520-9057-ed5d30c644d4&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6MfWvbPs2gIVS9bACh1aDA38EAYYASABEgIXofD_BwE
The Knipex has more leverage and is better made - from looking at them before I went the cheaper Lowes route.
Proper tools make many jobs simple and easy.
Roll pin starter punches and roll pin punches are the obvious solution to this simple problem.
Pretty sure I wouldn't want to be using those since they have serrations on them, whereas the Knipex do not.
When I was using them, I cut up cheap bicycle tire patches and duct tape in place - easily replaceable. IMO a no-brainer at 1/2 to 1/3 the price.
I'd would at least tape the jaw surface, smooth or not.
Since we are playing the money game, the two correct punches needed for an install are almost the same price. So why not just use those?
When I was using them, I cut up cheap bicycle tire patches and duct tape in place - easily replaceable. IMO a no-brainer at 1/2 to 1/3 the price.
I'd would at least tape the jaw surface, smooth or not.
Since we are playing the money game, the two correct punches needed for an install are almost the same price. So why not just use those?
The main reason I used them was to re-seat partially removed bolt catch roll pins when replacing standard bolt catches with enhanced catches. I used the Brownell's tool to press it out enough for removal and the compound pliers to press it back in.
On new builds I use a Walt's Tool and a roll pin punch, if I don't tap the boss for a threaded pin.
And, yes, I know that it would be easier to use roll pins. :o
ETA: I have too many receivers, so I like to tinker with them.
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