View Full Version : Do You Add a BCM Extractor Spring?
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 13:06
My 16 inch barrel AR 15 is ejecting at about 1:30 or 2:00. I am using the buffer and buffer spring which came with the rifle about 2 years old. Some people just add a BCM extractor spring (stronger spring) to their shorter rifles. Do you do this? Why? If not, why not?
Unless you are having any malfunctions I wouldn't worry about it.
Tell us more about the rifle itself. What buffer weight? Gas system length?
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 14:44
These are the components which came with it. It is a 16 inch barrel, Black Forge rifle. Their motto was "better than mil spec" and everything I have checked is mil spec so whatever it would be regarding the buffer and spring would be that. I recently cleaned the buffer and spring and could find no identifying mark on the buffer. The rifle has a standard FSP and so I assume the standard gas system for that length barrel. It does have a normal spring and ring. The ring is perhaps somewhat compressed but not flat.
These are the components which came with it. It is a 16 inch barrel, Black Forge rifle. Their motto was "better than mil spec" and everything I have checked is mil spec so whatever it would be regarding the buffer and spring would be that. I recently cleaned the buffer and spring and could find no identifying mark on the buffer. The rifle has a standard FSP and so I assume the standard gas system for that length barrel. It does have a normal spring and ring. The ring is perhaps somewhat compressed but not flat.
16 inch barrels come in multiple gas system lengths. You need to find out what. A FSP can be used with any gas system.
What buffer (the weight in the lower that the BCG pushes against) weight? It’s not as easy as saying “it’s milspec”.
What you describe seems to be a gas system issue not an extractor issue.
My 16 inch barrel AR 15 is ejecting at about 1:30 or 2:00. I am using the buffer and buffer spring which came with the rifle about 2 years old. Some people just add a BCM extractor spring (stronger spring) to their shorter rifles. Do you do this? Why? If not, why not?
Why add the BCM or Colt extractor spring? 1) As a diagnostic step in curing a failure to extract situation. Sometimes the OEM spring may not be strong enough to ensure the proper extractor pressure. Replacing the extractor spring with a known quantity spring is a step in checking the boxes to correct the problem. 2) Some folks just do it as a matter of course, firm in their belief that Colt or BCM offer better quality.
Do you do this? Why? If not, why not? I have done it on rifles to cure extraction problems. I do not replace the OEM springs as a matter of course until there are problems. My background is as a LE trainer, as part of my job I taught rifle classes. Most agencies buy/take the rifles as they are. Most often the rifles I've needed to work on were well used LESO 1033 rifles. About 15 years ago I did run into a bunch of agency Bushmasters that needed different extractor springs, Bushmaster sent the agency new bolts overnight air. Other than that I haven't seen OEM springs as a problem. Springs are a wear item and there is nothing wrong with replacing at specific round counts, such as every 5,000 rounds.
My 16 inch barrel AR 15 is ejecting at about 1:30 or 2:00 According to 'the chart' your rifle may be overgassed. First thing I would do is check the action spring (AKA buffer spring). For a carbine, the spring should start life 10.5 inches long, if it is 10 inches or shorter you need a new one. Remembering springs are a wear item, it is not a bad idea to measure at 2,000 - 3,000 rounds and replace at 5,000 rounds.
The next thing I would do is replace the standard carbine buffer with an H or H2 buffer (actually I replace carbine buffers as a matter of course so I guess it would be classed as the first thing I do). Unless you are on a strict budget, I would get the H2, all my rifles run fine on them and it smooths the action right out.
As someone else mentioned, if you aren't having malfunctions, it is perfectly okay to drive on.
These are the components which came with it. It is a 16 inch barrel, Black Forge rifle. Their motto was "better than mil spec" and everything I have checked is mil spec so whatever it would be regarding the buffer and spring would be that.
After checking their specs, these rifles are NOT "better than mil-spec". 4140 is the stated material used for the barrel when it should be 4150. Who knows what else they cheaped out on.
Before we go down this rabbit hole. What is your experience level with the AR15 family of weapons? What type of buffer are you using in this rifle? What is the gas port sizing? Who makes the BCG and what spring is in there now? All of these things need to be looked at first.
My 16 inch barrel AR 15 is ejecting at about 1:30 or 2:00. I am using the buffer and buffer spring which came with the rifle about 2 years old. Some people just add a BCM extractor spring (stronger spring) to their shorter rifles. Do you do this? Why? If not, why not?
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 16:36
My action spring is 10 3/8 inches long. Again, I looked at the buffer for markings and found none. It has a white plastic type tip at the far end pointing towards me as I shoot but other than that I don't know how to describe it. I do not have 5000 rounds but I do have 2000 rounds on this rifle or more. If I replace the spring first, any recommendations as to brand/type?
BCM uses the stronger spring in their bolts. The BCM BCG is considered to have a good reputation. Another reason I am mentioning replacement is shooting steel rounds. I do not shoot steel but what if I have no other choice someday? I have read a stronger extractor spring helps in that situation.
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 16:40
After checking their specs, these rifles are NOT "better than mil-spec". 4140 is the stated material used for the barrel when it should be 4150. Who knows what else they cheaped out on.
Can you give me a source on this? I talked to a retailer who sold these rifles and Black Forge. They made several models of ARs. This retailer (I forget who this was, it was some time ago) went down the line with metal, chrome, and it all was correct for my rifle.
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 16:41
Before we go down this rabbit hole. What is your experience level with the AR15 family of weapons? What type of buffer are you using in this rifle? What is the gas port sizing? Who makes the BCG and what spring is in there now? All of these things need to be looked at first.
Show me how to tell these things by looking at the rifle and I will gladly answer you.
My action spring is 10 3/8 inches long. Again, I looked at the buffer for markings and found none. It has a white plastic type tip at the far end pointing towards me as I shoot but other than that I don't know how to describe it. I do not have 5000 rounds but I do have 2000 rounds on this rifle or more. If I replace the spring first, any recommendations as to brand/type?
BCM uses the stronger spring in their bolts. The BCM BCG is considered to have a good reputation. Another reason I am mentioning replacement is shooting steel rounds. I do not shoot steel but what if I have no other choice someday? I have read a stronger extractor spring helps in that situation.
Stop worrying about the extractor spring. 1:30-2:00 ejection is a function of how fast the BCG is moving when your extractor pulls the casing out of the chamber and the ejector kicks it out of the fun. The fast it moves the more forward the ejection pattern. Hit YouTube for full auto vids and you’ll see that the pattern starts out at 4:00 and ends up at 1:30-2:00 because the BCG is moving so fast.
So you buffer has no markings which means it’s pribably a carbine weighted buffer. You should try an H or H2 buffer. It provides more weight behind the BCG causing it to slow its cycle of operation. You action spring is within spec and there is no need to change it.
Can you give me a source on this? I talked to a retailer who sold these rifles and Black Forge. They made several models of ARs. This retailer (I forget who this was, it was some time ago) went down the line with metal, chrome, and it all was correct for my rifle.
Per a retailer's site:
BLF BF15 Tier 2 M4 Rifle 5.56mm NATO 16.5 Inch Barrel Flash Hider MBUS Rear Sight Six-Position Collapsible Stock 30 Round Model BF15 Tier 2 M4 Tier 2 models meets all US military standards. Built with standard M4 accessories. Direct gas impingement operating system. Complete upper receiver includes A2 birdcage flash hider (1/2x28 threads) on a 16.5 inch M4 barrel with 1:7 NATO twist rate with an F-Marked A2 front sight post gas block. Barrel is made from 4140 Chromoly steel. 7075 T6 aluminum flat top A3 upper receiver with MilSpec 1913 picatinny rail system featuring M4 feed ramps. MagPul MBUS Gen 2 rear flip-up sight. Double Shield M4 handguard. M16 Auto/AR15 LEO bolt carrier group. Lower receiver: 7075 T6 aluminum forged lower receiver with standard semi-auto lower parts kit featuring a single stage trigger system. Six position collapsible stock with MilSpec buffer tube. Includes one 30-round stainless steel magazine with anti-tilt follower and owners manual. Item Number: BF15-556-T2 UPC Number: 741459537586
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 17:22
Per a retailer's site:
BLF BF15 Tier 2 M4 Rifle 5.56mm NATO 16.5 Inch Barrel Flash Hider MBUS Rear Sight Six-Position Collapsible Stock 30 Round Model BF15 Tier 2 M4 Tier 2 models meets all US military standards. Built with standard M4 accessories. Direct gas impingement operating system. Complete upper receiver includes A2 birdcage flash hider (1/2x28 threads) on a 16.5 inch M4 barrel with 1:7 NATO twist rate with an F-Marked A2 front sight post gas block. Barrel is made from 4140 Chromoly steel. 7075 T6 aluminum flat top A3 upper receiver with MilSpec 1913 picatinny rail system featuring M4 feed ramps. MagPul MBUS Gen 2 rear flip-up sight. Double Shield M4 handguard. M16 Auto/AR15 LEO bolt carrier group. Lower receiver: 7075 T6 aluminum forged lower receiver with standard semi-auto lower parts kit featuring a single stage trigger system. Six position collapsible stock with MilSpec buffer tube. Includes one 30-round stainless steel magazine with anti-tilt follower and owners manual. Item Number: BF15-556-T2 UPC Number: 741459537586
Can you please give me a link to this site?
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 17:23
Stop worrying about the extractor spring. 1:30-2:00 ejection is a function of how fast the BCG is moving when your extractor pulls the casing out of the chamber and the ejector kicks it out of the fun. The fast it moves the more forward the ejection pattern. Hit YouTube for full auto vids and you’ll see that the pattern starts out at 4:00 and ends up at 1:30-2:00 because the BCG is moving so fast.
So you buffer has no markings which means it’s pribably a carbine weighted buffer. You should try an H or H2 buffer. It provides more weight behind the BCG causing it to slow its cycle of operation. You action spring is within spec and there is no need to change it.
Thanks ggammell.
Thanks ggammell.
You got it man. And listen to Iraqgunz. He might be a little gruff but he is the foremost technical authority on the site. I generally read any thread he posts in to gleam knowledge about how these guns work.
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 17:36
You got it man. And listen to Iraqgunz. He might be a little gruff but he is the foremost technical authority on the site. I generally read any thread he posts in to gleam knowledge about how these guns work.
OK, so looking at the Brownell's Catalog, a standard carbine buffer is 3 oz. From there upward is 3.5, 4.1 and 5.4 oz. I have no scale but Monday I can go to the local USPO and probably talk them into weighing my buffer (just to make sure). Then, if it is 3. oz, I should probably go up to 3.5, correct?
OK, so looking at the Brownell's Catalog, a standard carbine buffer is 3 oz. From there upward is 3.5, 4.1 and 5.4 oz. I have no scale but Monday I can go to the local USPO and probably talk them into weighing my buffer (just to make sure). Then, if it is 3. oz, I should probably go up to 3.5, correct?
Atleast. Many will tell you H2 is the sweet spot.
If you can find just the buffer weights you can likely add them to your existing buffer with help from YouTube.
https://youtu.be/Bx0ttioOBgA
Inkslinger
05-05-18, 17:52
OK, so looking at the Brownell's Catalog, a standard carbine buffer is 3 oz. From there upward is 3.5, 4.1 and 5.4 oz. I have no scale but Monday I can go to the local USPO and probably talk them into weighing my buffer (just to make sure). Then, if it is 3. oz, I should probably go up to 3.5, correct?
If your buffer has no markings on it, it’s a standard carbine buffer. You should probably be using a H buffer. I would put in the H and stop worrying about ejection patterns.
If your buffer has no markings on it, it’s a standard carbine buffer. You should probably be using a H buffer. I would put in the H and stop worrying about ejection patterns.
Agreed, if this is not enough, add the BCM Extractor Spring Upgrade Kit.
My action spring is 10 3/8 inches long. Again, I looked at the buffer for markings and found none. It has a white plastic type tip at the far end pointing towards me as I shoot but other than that I don't know how to describe it. I do not have 5000 rounds but I do have 2000 rounds on this rifle or more. If I replace the spring first, any recommendations as to brand/type?
BCM uses the stronger spring in their bolts. The BCM BCG is considered to have a good reputation. Another reason I am mentioning replacement is shooting steel rounds. I do not shoot steel but what if I have no other choice someday? I have read a stronger extractor spring helps in that situation.
It is very unlikely your extractor spring is causing you any problems, since you don't report fail to extracts.
The buffer spring is GTG.
If you are concerned about ejection simply get an H2 Buffer. Most rifles will run on the H2. Here are sources:
BCM: https://www.bravocompanyusa.com/H2-Carbine-Buffer-p/buffer-carbine-h2.htm $29.99
DSG: http://www.primaryarms.com/heavy-carbine-buffer-for-m4-ar15-3-8oz-dsghcarbf-h $21.99
PSA: http://palmettostatearmory.com/palmetto-state-armory-h2-heavy-buffer.html $19.99
I've purchased from all the shops listed and haven't had any problems with shipping times, although some say they have experienced slow shipping from PSA.
Install an H2. to paraphrase the guy from Men's Warehouse, You're gonna love the way it shoots.
Dr. Bullseye
05-05-18, 20:56
Thanks guys, I will do it. My local gun shop is a Primary Arms dealer and I have dealt with them before and like them so I will see if my gun shop can get this for me.
Thanks again!
You don't need to weigh it. Buffers are marked accordingly. A plain buffer with no markings is a standard carbine buffer and usually weighs about 2.0 oz. You need an H buffer at a minimum assuming it doesn't have a Stormy Daniels gas port.
OK, so looking at the Brownell's Catalog, a standard carbine buffer is 3 oz. From there upward is 3.5, 4.1 and 5.4 oz. I have no scale but Monday I can go to the local USPO and probably talk them into weighing my buffer (just to make sure). Then, if it is 3. oz, I should probably go up to 3.5, correct?
Pretty much.
If your buffer has no markings on it, it’s a standard carbine buffer. You should probably be using a H buffer. I would put in the H and stop worrying about ejection patterns.
Dr. Bullseye
05-06-18, 20:18
I found two makers of individual tungsten weights and instructions on installing them. As Iraqgrunz says, I have a carbine buffer (unmarked) so one, possibly two weights (H1 or H2) are needed. If I do a DYI both can be tried. I also spent the day looking at buffer springs and the claims they make. People say the Sprinco red spring will improve the feel of recoil and improve follow up shots by keeping the rifle flatter after the first shot. They also say a heavier spring will increase the cycle time which may help my ejection pattern. They also claim their springs last much longer. They recommend the red spring and an H1 buffer. I may just do this. I will call them Monday and get their final recommendations.
I found two makers of individual tungsten weights and instructions on installing them. As Iraqgrunz says, I have a carbine buffer (unmarked) so one, possibly two weights (H1 or H2) are needed. If I do a DYI both can be tried. I also spent the day looking at buffer springs and the claims they make. People say the Sprinco red spring will improve the feel of recoil and improve follow up shots by keeping the rifle flatter after the first shot. They also say a heavier spring will increase the cycle time which may help my ejection pattern. They also claim their springs last much longer. They recommend the red spring and an H1 buffer. I may just do this. I will call them Monday and get their final recommendations.
One thing at a time.
There are tons of guns running well with the standard style spring. While Springco is highly regarded it may not be necessary.
I found two makers of individual tungsten weights and instructions on installing them. As Iraqgrunz says, I have a carbine buffer (unmarked) so one, possibly two weights (H1 or H2) are needed. If I do a DYI both can be tried. I also spent the day looking at buffer springs and the claims they make. People say the Sprinco red spring will improve the feel of recoil and improve follow up shots by keeping the rifle flatter after the first shot. They also say a heavier spring will increase the cycle time which may help my ejection pattern. They also claim their springs last much longer. They recommend the red spring and an H1 buffer. I may just do this. I will call them Monday and get their final recommendations.
As ggammell said - buffer first.
I like the idea that you are going to upgrade your buffers, I was hesitant to recommend that, as I didn't know your inclination.
Have you checked with these guys for parts? https://www.kakindustry.com/ar-15-parts/lower-parts/buffer-tubes-and-parts
Unless there is a special secret sauce tungsten or steel used in weights their prices seem pretty competitive. I've put together several R-7 buffers buffers using their pieces. No problems.
Dr. Bullseye
05-06-18, 22:58
I will do buffer first, ggammell. I did find that company 26Inf. and I also found these guys
https://dlaskarms.com/products/tungsten-ar-15-buffer-weight
I will do buffer first, ggammell. I did find that company 26Inf. and I also found these guys
https://dlaskarms.com/products/tungsten-ar-15-buffer-weight
Yes, that is why I made the tongue-in-cheek remark about 'secret sauce tungsten' the KAK tungsten weight is $7.50. They also ship pretty quickly.
Dr. Bullseye
05-07-18, 12:03
Yes, that is why I made the tongue-in-cheek remark about 'secret sauce tungsten' the KAK tungsten weight is $7.50. They also ship pretty quickly.
KAK is half the price of the other company so if you say they are good, I'll order from them, thanks.
I don't see a point of buying a single weight for $7.5 when you can buy a complete H2 buffer for 20-25.
Where are you finding H2 buffers in the $20-$25 range?
Where are you finding H2 buffers in the $20-$25 range?
Here you go: https://www.kakindustry.com/ar-15-parts/lower-parts/buffer-tubes-and-parts/ar15-h2-buffer
I don't see a point of buying a single weight for $7.5 when you can buy a complete H2 buffer for 20-25.
Look at it this way - if you spend 25.00 for a new buffer, you have a carbine buffer sitting around that will likely never get any use, plus you have paid 3 times as much to accomplish what you could have accomplished by buying the weight.
If you can't fathom that, you have a career in government!
Averageman
05-07-18, 14:48
When dealing with an unknown, it never hurts to replace springs such as the extractor spring.
Buying a used rifle with an unknown round count it would be prudent to at least have all springs available and change them out or change them out when they fail.
Some years ago when I bought a used AR, I did just that, at least I knew where I was starting from.
With your ejection pattern concerns, I agree, I think it might be your buffer being a bit light for your rifle.
Dr. Bullseye
05-08-18, 21:16
Here is the cheapest tungsten buffer weight supplier but it is ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tungsten-Recoil-Buffer-Weight-3-Pack-1-5-oz-each-for-Carbine-H3-Buffer-Rifle-/262957493728
Look at it this way - if you spend 25.00 for a new buffer, you have a carbine buffer sitting around that will likely never get any use, plus you have paid 3 times as much to accomplish what you could have accomplished by buying the weight.
If you can't fathom that, you have a career in government!
Here is what you can't seem to fathom:
H2 buffer is 25-30 including shipping. 2 tungsten weights ($7.5 each) - approximately 20 including shipping. At most $10 difference.
You also need a roll pin punch. Good if you have it, if you don't - another expense.
Plus, possibly a roll pin if you damage the existing one. Another few bucks.
You go to a range and your new H2 buffer does not work, now you either have to go back home and revert back or change buffers at the range (if you brought all tools and buffers with you). Plus no easy way to quickly test buffers if you only have one buffer.
If that sounds fine to you - more power to you. For most reasonable people that's a hustle and waste of time and range fees for $5-10 difference.
Look at it this way - if you spend 25.00 for a new buffer, you have a carbine buffer sitting around that will likely never get any use, plus you have paid 3 times as much to accomplish what you could have accomplished by buying the weight.
If you can't fathom that, you have a career in government!
Um, if you don't have that extra buffer laying around how the hell are you going to build another AR? Duh...
Dr. Bullseye
05-09-18, 10:43
Here is what you can't seem to fathom:
H2 buffer is 25-30 including shipping. 2 tungsten weights ($7.5 each) - approximately 20 including shipping. At most $10 difference.
You also need a roll pin punch. Good if you have it, if you don't - another expense.
Plus, possibly a roll pin if you damage the existing one. Another few bucks.
You go to a range and your new H2 buffer does not work, now you either have to go back home and revert back or change buffers at the range (if you brought all tools and buffers with you). Plus no easy way to quickly test buffers if you only have one buffer.
If that sounds fine to you - more power to you. For most reasonable people that's a hustle and waste of time and range fees for $5-10 difference.
I am not buying weights to save money. I am buying weights so that more than one combination of weights can be tried. This way an optimum fit can be found. Of course I could buy two or three more buffers outright. Is that what you are suggesting?
Here is what you can't seem to fathom:
H2 buffer is 25-30 including shipping. 2 tungsten weights ($7.5 each) - approximately 20 including shipping. At most $10 difference.
You also need a roll pin punch. Good if you have it, if you don't - another expense.
Plus, possibly a roll pin if you damage the existing one. Another few bucks.
You go to a range and your new H2 buffer does not work, now you either have to go back home and revert back or change buffers at the range (if you brought all tools and buffers with you). Plus no easy way to quickly test buffers if you only have one buffer.
If that sounds fine to you - more power to you. For most reasonable people that's a hustle and waste of time and range fees for $5-10 difference.
You are right in some of what you are saying. A lot of it depends on your inclination.
As i noted in an earlier post I didn't suggest buying buffer weights to convert earlier because I didn't know if that was his inclination. Once he mentioned it I weighed in, assuming he had the tools and knowledge.
Um, if you don't have that extra buffer laying around how the hell are you going to build another AR? Duh...
I know. That is the point, avoid extra parts. I'm in a self-help group whose goal is to help addicts break the cycle of building. Something as simple as an extra A2 flash suppressor can cause an addict to fall off the wagon. We need to break the chains of addiction. (at least that's what the sweatshirts from the halfway house in my community say)
Seriously, I started buying wieghts to convert for just that reason - I had several carbine buffers laying around gathering dust, plus I'd been reading about the R7 buffers. About forty bucks and I was in buffer nervana.
TomPenguin5145
05-09-18, 16:09
I have a Red SpringCo spring if anyone wants it. I ordered it along with a blue when I was building my rifle. I settled on the blue for mine to ensure reliably in sub zero temps. If someone wants it, please let me know.I shot about 20 rounds with it. I will gladly send it to someone for 10 bucks plus shipping.
MOD EDIT: ALL sales/trades are done in the Equipment Exchange, ONLY. Period, end of story. And, the EE has a minimum post-count requirement (see the EE rules) that you have not met.
Dr. Bullseye
05-09-18, 16:52
Is this weight procedure really rocket science guys? I have a set of punches and there are youtube instructions on doing this. Go to the 2:40 minute mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTxu8RG4nbU
Most definitely not Rocket Science - the hard work has already been done by the guys who figured out the best weights to use for different applications.
Coal Dragger
05-09-18, 20:54
Nope not rocket science. If you want to buy some tungsten weights and experiment go for it!
I’m going to venture a guess that if your carbine is ejecting to 1:00-1:30 that it is overgassed. A lot of 16” barrels with carbine length gas systems suffer from this, as other more knowledgeable individuals will attest this combination creates considerably more dwell time of gas pressure at the gas port. This results in more gas volume into the system, and faster bolt carrier speeds. I have a Colt M4A1 with a 16” barrel and carbine length gas system, Colt shipped it with an H2 buffer and it runs nicely.
For your edification, if not explained already, the buffer will be marked on the face of the buffer where the bolt carrier pushes against it. Easily visible with the buffer in the receiver extension. No marking means it’s a standard carbine buffer, H is one tungsten weight, H2... well you get the picture.
Put an H or H2 in it, your bolt, extractor, action spring, and ejector spring will thank you in the long run. Plus the carbine will run smoother.
Dr. Bullseye
05-09-18, 20:58
Nope not rocket science. If you want to buy some tungsten weights and experiment go for it!
I’m going to venture a guess that if your carbine is ejecting to 1:00-1:30 that it is overgassed. A lot of 16” barrels with carbine length gas systems suffer from this, as other more knowledgeable individuals will attest this combination creates considerably more dwell time of gas pressure at the gas port. This results in more gas volume into the system, and faster bolt carrier speeds. I have a Colt M4A1 with a 16” barrel and carbine length gas system, Colt shipped it with an H2 buffer and it runs nicely.
For your edification, if not explained already, the buffer will be marked on the face of the buffer where the bolt carrier pushes against it. Easily visible with the buffer in the receiver extension. No marking means it’s a standard carbine buffer, H is one tungsten weight, H2... well you get the picture.
Put an H or H2 in it, your bolt, extractor, action spring, and ejector spring will thank you in the long run. Plus the carbine will run smoother.
Thanks Coal Dragger, I plan to start with an H2 weight and see where I am after that.
Trying to figure out why you are making something easy so complicated when you have been given good advice?
Thanks Coal Dragger, I plan to start with an H2 weight and see where I am after that.
Dr. Bullseye
05-10-18, 10:40
Trying to figure out why you are making something easy so complicated when you have been given good advice?
Isn't that exactly what I said I was going to do? Why are you trying to confuse the issue?
Dr. Bullseye
05-12-18, 14:21
Final Report
I called Sprinco, they recommended two titanium weights and their orange spring (the strongest one). Both the KAK and Sprinco spring arrived yesterday. Today's trial run went perfectly. The bolt locked back every time, the ejection pattern was 3-4:30. The recoil is much smoother. I couldn't be happier. THANKS GUYS for your help.
titsonritz
05-12-18, 17:47
Final Report
I called Sprinco, they recommended two titanium weights and their orange spring (the strongest one).
Titanium? Not Tungsten? Seems backwards. And did they give you a reason on the orange over the blue? I've never used the orange or really even considered it.
Dr. Bullseye
05-13-18, 11:09
Titanium? Not Tungsten? Seems backwards. And did they give you a reason on the orange over the blue? I've never used the orange or really even considered it.
Sorry, it was tungsten. I gave the guy at Sprinco a run down of the problem. He agreed, it was a bad case of over gassing. My question was if I needed a blue or red spring. He said his experience has shown a strong spring and a heavy buffer will not only cure the ejection problem but will soften felt recoil. Sprinco's springs, color coded, in order of strength: White, blue, red, orange. I thought maybe a blue, he said just do it with the orange and an H2. I did it and it works beautifully.
Remembering someone said an M4 changed from a 4 to 1:00 position in full auto, I cranked off three rounds as fast as I could. The ejection pattern still held. The recoil certainly feels softer and there is less deflection when looking through my optic.
Sprinco also makes the five coil extractor springs for BCM. For two dollars more they will send you their extractor spring along with your action spring. For an additional one dollar they send you a black insert and a rubber o-ring. So for about three dollars, you get the extractor package. Just the rubber o-ring is more than $3.00 in the Brownell's catalog. How can you say no? I have not put the extractor spring in.
So basically I bought the orange spring based on this guy's recommendation. This is his business and he does this every day. It was a $20.00 dollar gamble but it paid off.
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