View Full Version : Colt Castle Nut Staking
I know, I know, there's been about a hundred threads on staking, but I'll keep this short, simple, and different from the others.
I just got a new Colt 6933 and I'm in the midst of changing out some parts on the lower. One of the changes I will be making is adding an A5 type system, requiring the removal of the stock castle nut and buffer tube. I have done this before, but my staking looks very rough. I really haven't cared because function is more important than looks. I use a spring punch, so it just looks like a round bit of metal pushed out into the space in the castle nut. The Colt lower has a good bit of metal pushed out in a flat line. I'd like to do a neat job since this is a registered lower. What would be the proper tool to replicate Colt's staking? Is it possible to replicate without complication?
While I'm at it, what's the best way to remove the deep stakes? Still a dremel?
Any advice appreciated.
As long as the metal it's positively pushed into the castlenut, you're good. All the staking does is keep the castlenut from vibrating loose. If you stake too much, it will push metal into the threads of the RE and gink them up.
You don't need to grind anything to remove the castlenut. Just put the lower in a vise with a vise block and break it loose. Apply steady pressure. Don't jerk on the wrench.
-Take your time
-Be careful of damaging the RE threads with the tongue of the end plate
-Use steady pressure
-Don't over stake
-Don't launch buffer retainer pin & spring
-Don't launch the pivot pin spring
-Don't put yer eye out. Wear safety glasses
Switching to A5 isn't worth the effort if you wish to keep factory-like staking. Put an H2 buffer in the RE, and don't mess with it.
On a New build? A5 all the way, other than that... not needed or worth the ass ache of swapping the parts... Just my opinion.
Switching to A5 isn't worth the effort if you wish to keep factory-like staking. Put an H2 buffer in the RE, and don't mess with it.
On a New build? A5 all the way, other than that... not needed or worth the ass ache of swapping the parts... Just my opinion.
Like Mark said. If it isn't a new build the A5 system has little value. The bang for the buck just isn't there.
I installed an A5 on a 6933 lower and it made enough of an improvement with more than one upper, that to me, it was well worth the effort and expense.
I appreciate the advice. I have either an H2 or H3 in all my others, I just had a certain vision for what I wanted to do with this one. I've read that an A5 probably wouldn't make much difference, I just have a parts list of things I want to try out.
Mistwolf, can I apply enough pressure to do any damage on this thing? The stakes look pretty solid. I've never done this before so I don't have a reference point.
I have removed a few factory staked Colt REs without causing undue damage. Just take your time, apply steady pressure and hold the wrench in place so it doesn't slip. You want to just break the castlenut loose. Once it's loose, study the situation. You then want to spin the castlenut loose without rotating the RE. If the RE rotates, the tongue of the end plate will damage the RE threads.
Just take your time. You may slip and mar the finish of the nut or bugger it up a bit, but they don't cost much to replace.
One more thing. Orient things so you you're pulling up on the wrench, not pushing down and use the muscles of your whole body, not just the arm.
If there is a lot of material pushed out, trying to force the castle nut past can strip the threads on the extension tube. I use a small drill bit to remove most of the staking, but not all the way through and then wrench the castle nut loose. If you are careful you can reuse all the parts. If not you only risk junking parts much cheaper than an extension tube.
Good deal. I can handle that. The only thing I was really concerned about is messing up the threads on the lower. I'll be replacing the extension and I've got an extra castle nut. I appreciate the advice so I can go ahead and get it started.
The best way to do pretty staking in my opinion:
Use an LMT castle nut. They have round notches that look good staked with a punch.
Get a center punch and dull it to have a ball end instead of a point.
Support the inside of the receiver extension with a piece of round metal, or an appropriate size socket. I use a 9/16” impact socket. This keeps you from egging the receiver extension and lets the punch transfer energy to the end plate and not bouncing off the extension. I use a 16oz ball peen and angle the punch towards the nut at about 30 degrees.
everready73
07-25-18, 19:56
Mrgunsandgear has a YouTube video up on how to do this. Helped me
https://youtu.be/FP_048VMvE0
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.