View Full Version : Breakfree CLP
I've been using this as a general purpose cleaner/lubricant for probably 30 years or so, and it's always worked well for me. I know that nowadays there is a wide assortment of products that do just as well or better (or maybe MUCH better).
I've heard some guys say "I miss the old Breakfree formulation from the 1980's and 1990's. It worked better". Guess I really haven't been paying attention, but is that accurate?
There are several threads which discuss Breakfree, these seemed to be most relevant:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?144844-Anyone-highly-knowledgeable-about-both-Lubricant-Small-Arms-(LSA)-and-CLP
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?99544-Weapons-lubricant-updates-info
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?161889-CLP-vs-LSA
Plus there was the epic, Fireclean...is it just re-branded Crisco Vegetable oil? thread that went on, and on, and on..... https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?173451-Fireclean-is-it-just-re-branded-Crisco-Vegetable-oil-Video
Well, I'm not familiar with Fireclean but it sounds delicious.
I think Fireclean sued the Vuurwapen blog guy for false statements or something. Either way, it’s always worked very well for me.
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I use slip2000. I just detailed my glock, lubed it and let it sit(edc gun) for a week or so, and it seems the lube disolved a lot of carbon in crevices because the inside was filthy again. Just thought Id share as I noticed today and seemed somewhat relevant.
RetroRevolver77
08-18-18, 22:55
I started using Weapon Shield CLP, same guy that made FP10 CLP. He does tests under "Weapon Shield" on youtube with various lubes and you can see how bad some of the competition perform. He uses some kind of friction machine and basically his performs better than most of the big name stuff. Dude has some doctorate in oil or something. He tests nearly every major manufacturers lubes on the machine- it's basically a pass fail type situation until the machine seizes up from friction.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXD34ToxHtg
I still clean with Breakfree but wipe it off after the part is clean and lube with Slip2000 EWL, especially the BCG of my AR's.
Bores I'll usually leave lubed with Breakfree once they're spic-and-span.
Grand58742
08-19-18, 10:02
Call me a traditionalist that won't change, but I see no need to change from the synthetic 5W-40 motor oil (typically Castrol Syntec) I've used for nearly 20 years on private and .mil arms. Save one deployment where I used the vehicle motor oil from the maintenance yards (they said it was synthetic, so not really cheating on the faithful)
It's far cheaper than the latest craze in "gun oils" and works perfectly fine in my experience. I still keep a can of Breakfree around for spots of corrosion, but by and large, the motor oil is my go to and a quart lasts a long time.
Call me a traditionalist that won't change, but I see no need to change from the synthetic 5W-40 motor oil (typically Castrol Syntec).
Have you ever read this?
https://msdspds.castrol.com/ussds/amersdsf.nsf/Files/D2B359ABBE6EB9C68025798300501E97/$File/096367Castrol%20EDGE%20with%20Syntec%20Power%20Technology%205W-20.pdf
I've tried lots of them but I don't seem to see much difference in how the gun works. For personal preference though FP10/Weaponshield if I was limited to just one. It just seems to take more junk off as a CLP than anything I used. I honestly use it as a bore cleaner more often than anything else I own. Pleasant smell doesn't hurt either.
This stuff is prehistoric by today's standards, but some folks swear by it:
https://ballistol.com/uses/firearm-cleaning-lubricant/
This stuff is prehistoric by today's standards, but some folks swear by it:
https://ballistol.com/uses/firearm-cleaning-lubricant/
Great stuff but smells like ass. I used it on a couple of pairs of cuffs I carry as I wanted something "light" to flush them out. That smell lasted for days...
Have you ever read this?
https://msdspds.castrol.com/ussds/amersdsf.nsf/Files/D2B359ABBE6EB9C68025798300501E97/$File/096367Castrol%20EDGE%20with%20Syntec%20Power%20Technology%205W-20.pdf
Didn’t get to that link, but the sds for mobil 1 says no significant hazard. Did I miss something?
I used to use Mobile 1 as a weapon lube. Worked great. But if you do some actual research on it you'll find that using motor oil as a gun lube is bad for your health.
Didn’t get to that link, but the sds for mobil 1 says no significant hazard. Did I miss something?
Raw motor oil is pretty benign, but as its used and breaks down, it creates some nasty stuff. For those of us that shoot often, its worth it to get something like slip2k IMO. Slip also lasts much longer in use and storage than motor oil in my experience.
LMT Shooter
08-19-18, 22:17
Have you ever read this?
https://msdspds.castrol.com/ussds/amersdsf.nsf/Files/D2B359ABBE6EB9C68025798300501E97/$File/096367Castrol%20EDGE%20with%20Syntec%20Power%20Technology%205W-20.pdf
I read it, it was quite a dry subject, so my attention may have been lacking, but I saw nothing alarming, so if I missed it would you please clarify &/or elaborate?
Didn’t get to that link, but the sds for mobil 1 says no significant hazard. Did I miss something?
Nothing earth shattering, respiratory and eye irritant.
I wouldn't use motor oil.
Grand58742
08-20-18, 06:39
Nothing earth shattering, respiratory and eye irritant.
I wouldn't use motor oil.
Meh, I'm a smoker and have other health concerns. You are gonna die eventually.
For what it's worth, here's a guy that tested 46 gun oil products. Now, he only tested corrosion resistance not shooting.
http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/141077-Results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation
I use Hopes and CLP. No real reason, just happened to buy that. They clean, I never have rust issues even with surplus ammo. I typically buy whatever is cheapest or closest to reach. Maybe there's a difference if I were in a sub tropical jungle near salt water or in extreme cold environment. As it is Pennsylvania isn't either and I never had issues with the run of the mill cleaner/lubricant
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Outlander Systems
08-20-18, 08:30
https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/af92eed8-0b28-4481-9a57-530057badd2b/svn/super-lube-lubricants-grease-funnels-21030-64_1000.jpg
vicious_cb
08-20-18, 08:38
https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/af92eed8-0b28-4481-9a57-530057badd2b/svn/super-lube-lubricants-grease-funnels-21030-64_1000.jpg
Superior
https://www.breachbangclear.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/billymays550.jpg
https://www.breachbangclear.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/lube_in_use550.jpg
Outlander Systems
08-20-18, 08:49
I don’t know about unicorn jizz, but I know I can pop into a NAPA and grab some Super Lube, that, for my purposes, outperforms every other snake oil I’ve tried.
davidjinks
08-20-18, 13:30
Lubricants change over time. Some get better, some not so much.
I tend to stick with what the military uses. I’ve run the gambit of lubes/super lubes etc. wasted a lot of money over that time. Seeing what the armorer’s shop uses during RD/TE gives me a warm fuzzy.
As of now, unless something major changes, I use G96 for a CLP. I use Aeroshell #33 grease for my Glock connectors and my AR triggers.
I've been using this as a general purpose cleaner/lubricant for probably 30 years or so, and it's always worked well for me. I know that nowadays there is a wide assortment of products that do just as well or better (or maybe MUCH better).
I've heard some guys say "I miss the old Breakfree formulation from the 1980's and 1990's. It worked better". Guess I really haven't been paying attention, but is that accurate?
I still run Break Free CLP for cleaning... That said, I haven't cleaned an AR in over a year. Not sure if I remember how to clean an AR.
An article on lubrication that could save some money, and possibly mitigate health concerns:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/
I’ve been following the advice in the article for about a year, and am happy with the results. Much cheaper than the latest legless reptile derived oils, and possibly safer. Lubrication seems to be as good as anything else, even at 1,000 or 2,000 rounds in. I’m in humid, coastal SC, and sometimes shoot in the rain (rain repels Bubba). No rust issues so far.
I do still use issued CLP for punching barrels. Most users will be fine owning only CLP to clean, lube and protect every gun in the safe. After all, my friends and I have fired lots of suppressed and unsupressed rounds with just CLP, and have gotten wet for days. Just wear gloves regardless of lube type.
Gun products on guns.
Car products on cars.
Averageman
08-20-18, 15:13
In the early days of CLP we tried using it to clean with, it proved very unsuccessful.
The best way I found to clean a well used M2 and M240 was to start with hot water and green pad and the green cleaning toothbrush. Very hot water and a scrub in the tub will do the trick. In a pinch I've used JP fuel when no hot water was available.
CLP seemed to do fine as a lubricant, but not as a cleaner.
sundance435
08-21-18, 16:06
An article on lubrication that could save some money, and possibly mitigate health concerns:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/
It took owning a Garand for me to appreciate grease. I'd always just used the latest and greatest wonder-oil lube and forwent the grease on my autos. Now I use very small dabs of either Lucas grease or the same Lubriplate I use for my Garands on sliding surfaces and drops of oil on the rotating parts. I only use a CLP type product to clean the barrel and feed ramp.
Don't Garands (and M14's) require grease on certain surfaces anyway?
Averageman
08-21-18, 16:13
It took owning a Garand for me to appreciate grease. I'd always just used the latest and greatest wonder-oil lube and forwent the grease on my autos. Now I use very small dabs of either Lucas grease or the same Lubriplate I use for my Garands on sliding surfaces and drops of oil on the rotating parts. I only use a CLP type product to clean the barrel and feed ramp.
If I own it and it has a slide that rides a rail it has a small dab of that Lucas white grease on it.
Garands and M1A/M14's came with a two part oiler and I believe one side was oil, the other was grease.
Doc Safari
08-21-18, 16:20
I was just sitting here thinking....what this forum needs is another lube thread...sorta like....mmmmm...more cowbell.
:jester:
As for Breakfree being changed: IIRC around 20 years ago I'd swear it smelled like burnt tires. I can't detect that smell anymore. I doubt it's just my getting used to it: Ballistol still reeks like it used to. I'm thinking the formula for BreakFree has indeed changed over the years.
Averageman
08-21-18, 16:23
I was just sitting here thinking....what this forum needs is another lube thread...sorta like....mmmmm...more cowbell.
:jester:
As for Breakfree being changed: IIRC around 20 years ago I'd swear it smelled like burnt tires. I can't detect that smell anymore. I doubt it's just my getting used to it: Ballistol still reeks like it used to. I'm thinking the formula for BreakFree has indeed changed over the years.
It used to breakdown and you would have a thin oily substance on top and a thick rather unpleasant layer of spooge in the bottom.
I switched away from Breakfree years ago...I thought it smelled bad and it didn't work all that well. It cleaned poorly, didn't protect the metal all that well, and was just "meh" as a lube. Plus the Teflon crap settled and was always caked at the bottom being annoying and useless.
These days everything else gets Corrosion-X. It works just as well as any other magic jiz I've tried and is a superior protectant. In addition to the Corrosion-X, the Garand, M1 Carbine, and M1A get a slathering of either TW-25B or Lubraplate 130, depending upon which is at hand at the time.
For cleaning, I use MPro-7 exclusively. Makes life fast and easy.
I started using Weapon Shield CLP, same guy that made FP10 CLP. He does tests under "Weapon Shield" on youtube with various lubes and you can see how bad some of the competition perform. He uses some kind of friction machine and basically his performs better than most of the big name stuff. Dude has some doctorate in oil or something. He tests nearly every major manufacturers lubes on the machine- it's basically a pass fail type situation until the machine seizes up from friction.
That test proves nothing, can easily be manipulated by the person conducting the "test", and does not conform to any industry standards.
Want proof? In this video Head & Shoulders out performs several top brands of motor oil
https://youtu.be/Ne7ayhPVVYY
That test proves nothing, can easily be manipulated by the person conducting the "test", and does not conform to any industry standards.
Want proof? In this video Head & Shoulders out performs several top brands of motor oil
I was going to comment after that first video linked that the wear surface on the test cylinder was getting wider, therefore spreading the lubricated area out. This video mentioned the same thing. All I know is that I'm going to test some Prell out tonight.. everyone knows that shit is slick as hell.
Just buy NANO LUBE! :jester:
Hey, Boeing can't be wrong:
https://boeshield.com/general-use/
So, out of curiosity exactly what DOES the Army issue for cleaning/lubing these days?
Back in the 80's it was Break Free.
Meh, I'm a smoker and have other health concerns. You are gonna die eventually.
I want to die like my grandpa did, peacefully, in my sleep, not screaming like the people in the other car.
sundance435
08-21-18, 20:49
Don't Garands (and M14's) require grease on certain surfaces anyway?
Yes, for anything more than a few rounds. I wouldn't want to run mine without it, but I'm sure you could (just using lubricant) if you wanted to for some reason. My point was that I didn't really see the need for grease on my other guns before, but now I put it on every one on most sliding surfaces. Stays in place a lot better than any lubricant I've ever used.
If I own it and it has a slide that rides a rail it has a small dab of that Lucas white grease on it.
Garands and M1A/M14's came with a two part oiler and I believe one side was oil, the other was grease.
Yes on the oiler. I like the white Lucas grease for my modern guns, but I stick with Lubriplate on my Garands and some AR parts. After field stripping my Garand, there are only 2 or 3 spots where I apply a very small dab of lube, if I'm not taking the bolt apart.
Doc Safari
08-22-18, 08:51
I want to die like my grandpa did, peacefully, in my sleep, not screaming like the people in the other car.
That's great. I am stealing that one.
RetroRevolver77
08-22-18, 09:33
That test proves nothing, can easily be manipulated by the person conducting the "test", and does not conform to any industry standards.
Want proof? In this video Head & Shoulders out performs several top brands of motor oil
https://youtu.be/Ne7ayhPVVYY
George Fennell developed the original FP10 CLP line. He then went out on his own to develop the Weapon's Shield CLP product line. I agree the tests could be faked. However his tests could easily be "debunked" with someone with the same machine and then he'd be out of business. I use his CLP product, works well and I like the grease also for aluminum framed handguns.
7n6
So, out of curiosity exactly what DOES the Army issue for cleaning/lubing these days?
Back in the 80's it was Break Free.
Royco 634
9150-01-102-1473
Is what’s in the only container I have that actually has a label. It was manufactured 10 years ago, according to the label, but it got issued to me 3 years ago.
That test proves nothing, can easily be manipulated by the person conducting the "test", and does not conform to any industry standards.
Want proof? In this video Head & Shoulders out performs several top brands of motor oil
https://youtu.be/Ne7ayhPVVYY
Head & Shoulders it is! currently searching for case price discounts.
Royco 634
9150-01-102-1473
Is what’s in the only container I have that actually has a label. It was manufactured 10 years ago, according to the label, but it got issued to me 3 years ago.
Damn.. have you ever read the MSDS on that stuff? https://www.appliedthermalfluids.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/MSDS-Royco-634.pdf
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