View Full Version : Realistic list of spare parts to keep on hand
Given a M4gery, what spare parts, given normal wear and tear, should I keep on hand? I am thinking about operator level repairs/part replacement and parts that are likely to wear out and fail under normal (range) usage. So no armorer's work like barrel replacement or any thing that would require special tools. By way of example something like spare gas rings. I see a lot of lists but they seem to list parts that the average use would never replace and/or unlikely to break. So what I am asking is what is a realistic list.
praythenspray
10-01-18, 09:53
I have a feeling many will say a spare bolt. Good idea. Or if you can swing it, even a complete spare BCG. You can load up on the small spare parts from Bravo Company for fairly cheap. gas rings, cam pin, firing pin, firing pin retaining pin, sopmod bolt upgrade/rebuild kit. You don't need special tools for any of that. Just a punch or even a smaller size allen wrench to push the pin out for the extractor swap.
I would also add an action spring or two. For the basic milspec ones from Bravo Company they are around $5 a piece.
I would keep gas rings, firing pin retaining pin, extractor w/spring, buffer spring.
I would keep gas rings, firing pin retaining pin, extractor w/spring, buffer spring.
That and a bolt is pretty good.
Send it...
10-01-18, 10:49
Hammer and trigger pins too.
But how often do hammers and trigger pins break? I can see loosing them if you disassemble the lower but how often do you need to do that even to clean it? In the Army the operator was never authorized to do that. I can see having replacement parts for field stripped items that you might drop and loose.
Here is a comprehensive spare parts kit at a fair price.
http://sionicsweaponsystems.com/store2015/parts-accessories/128-bolt-carrier-group-hpmpi-tested-with-np3-carrier.html
Send it...
10-01-18, 11:26
But how often do hammers and trigger pins break? I can see loosing them if you disassemble the lower but how often do you need to do that even to clean it? In the Army the operator was never authorized to do that. I can see having replacement parts for field stripped items that you might drop and loose.
I’ve broke two over the years. When they shit the bed, your SOL unless you have a spare.
Springs-
-Extractor spring
-Hammer spring
-Action spring
Because They Get Lost Or Damaged-
-Take down pin retainer & spring
-Selector switch retainer & spring
-Buffer retainer & spring
-Bolt cam pin
Parts & Assemblies-
-Complete BCG
-Muzzle device shims
I have a feeling many will say a spare bolt. Good idea. Or if you can swing it, even a complete spare BCG. You can load up on the small spare parts from Bravo Company for fairly cheap. gas rings, cam pin, firing pin, firing pin retaining pin, sopmod bolt upgrade/rebuild kit. You don't need special tools for any of that. Just a punch or even a smaller size allen wrench to push the pin out for the extractor swap.
I would also add an action spring or two. For the basic milspec ones from Bravo Company they are around $5 a piece.
Agreed. All of the small parts on the BCG, a bolt itself, and buffer/action spring. If the other parts are quality and you’re not screwing around with them, you likely wouldn’t need anything else.
ETA - small parts from an LPK would be a good idea too.
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Given a M4gery, what spare parts, given normal wear and tear, should I keep on hand? I am thinking about operator level repairs/part replacement and parts that are likely to wear out and fail under normal (range) usage. So no armorer's work like barrel replacement or any thing that would require special tools. By way of example something like spare gas rings. I see a lot of lists but they seem to list parts that the average use would never replace and/or unlikely to break. So what I am asking is what is a realistic list.
I think that if you are going to be realistic about it you have to assess the rounds you are going to put through your rifle. Another consideration is whether or not you have more than one rifle, and your pressing need to have all rifles 'up.'
You can't predict when each part is going to fail.
I guess it also depends on how much money you want to tie up in parts that will likely just sit in a box.
Most AR users will never break a bolt, never run gas rings through their life cycle, heck, never need to replace a buffer spring.
Myself, I'd focus on getting another rifle before getting anything beyond a spare bolt and buffer/action spring. The way bolts are priced in comparison to perfectly serviceable mil-spec BCG's I'd probably just get a spare BCG and buffer spring.
Keep a spare BCG on hand, especially when you are at the range. Having a box of parts and tools at home isn't going to do you a lot of good.
The only parts I've seen fail regularly outside of the BCG would be the forward assist and the disconnector. The first can be fixed with an upper that doesn't have one, the second is a little more involved and takes tools.
ETA: The issues I've seen in the BCG include worn gas rings, broken bolts at the cam pin, and gas keys striking the gas tube.
The complete BCG is an added, and likely unnecessary, expense. If the gas key staking is good, the chances of the carrier itself failing are pretty low but having a complete one will add almost $100 to the price.
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The complete BCG is an added, and likely unnecessary, expense. If the gas key staking is good, the chances of the carrier itself failing are pretty low but having a complete one will add almost $100 to the price.
I agree. This reminds me of the panic days where guys were stashing BCGs 4 and 5 deep. :fie:
I agree. This reminds me of the panic days where guys were stashing BCGs 4 and 5 deep. :fie:
I've got 4 spare complete BCGs(2xColt and 2xFN). They cost me like $125 a piece. $125 for a quality BCG is pretty cheap in my eyes especially when I have 10+ uppers. Now is the time to stock up. Just my 2 pennies
titsonritz
10-01-18, 14:44
I've got 4 spare complete BCGs(2xColt and 2xFN). They cost me like $125 a piece. $125 for a quality BCG is pretty cheap in my eyes especially when I have 10+ uppers. Now is the time to stock up. Just my 2 pennies
I agree, just bought 4 spare complete Colt bolt assemblies, already had two complete Colt BCG plus multiple rebuild kits. Probably going to pick up a 100 mags too
I've got 4 spare complete BCGs(2xColt and 2xFN). They cost me like $125 a piece. $125 for a quality BCG is pretty cheap in my eyes especially when I have 10+ uppers. Now is the time to stock up. Just my 2 pennies
I shoot every weekend, but don't really put enough wear and tear on any one gun to worry too much about a BCG going out. I might have 1 extra pieced together BCG for 8 rifles. Whatever people want to have on hand is cool. I've just come to find over the years that extra BCGs aren't needed.
Seth8, how can the disconnecter and forward assist fail? I know that anything mechanical can fail, but it seems to me that the mean rounds between failure must be very high for those parts. Does anyone know of a chart that lists the MRBF for the various parts?
Seth8, how can the disconnecter and forward assist fail?
I read of one failing once and the pawl pushed into the carrier locking the gun up. Winning the powerball is monumentally more likely.
I shoot every weekend, but don't really put enough wear and tear on any one gun to worry too much about a BCG going out. I might have 1 extra pieced together BCG for 8 rifles. Whatever people want to have on hand is cool. I've just come to find over the years that extra BCGs aren't needed.
I agree. I have BCG's because I build these things pretty regularly, never bought a bolt as a standalone part.
A quick look at Brownell's revealed bolts from 38.00 to 126.00; BCM mil-spec for 80.00; Sionics mil-spec for 70.00.
You can pick up a PSA mil-spec BCG (C-158, HPI, MPI) for 69.99; a Toolcraft BCG (9310 steel) for 68.00 or a Toolcraft 1B1B6 mil-spec for $90.00 at WCArmory.
In reality, it is cheaper to buy just the bolt, but I don't.
The complete BCG is an added, and likely unnecessary, expense. If the gas key staking is good, the chances of the carrier itself failing are pretty low but having a complete one will add almost $100 to the price.
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Seems to be more on the order of 20.00 to 30.00 complete BCG versus bolt assembly.
I dont have a set number of spares I think I need but anytime I see good small parts at decent prices or even randomly add them onto my orders. As for BCGs I keep 2 spare bolts and 1 spare carrier. I have several sets of gas rings, cam pins, firing pins w/retaining pins and spare gas key and screws. Id also try to have a complete lower parts kit set aside just as spares, not for building another gun (have another set for that event). These are probably the most important to have on hand, IMHO.
I dont throw out any parts I replace that are not actually broken, I keep those as loner parts for the unprepared. I also dont dip into my spares if I can quickly get a part via normal channels, also good excuse to buy a few more small parts to make shipping worthwhile.
If you have some hi zoot trigger Id try to obtain at least a spare spring set for it or hopefully have a spare stock trigger. Geissele sells spare parts kits for their triggers.
Slowly aquire other spares as money and opportunity allow, things like gas tubes and mil spec receiver extensions etc dont often shit the bed but during a panic or in a ban situation is not the time to try to buy one.
If you use QD swivels Id have one of those in your spares box too.
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I just blew out an LMT enhanced Bolt with ~2000rds on it. Shit happens. If I didn't have a spare bolt around, my MRP Upper would've been out of commission.
Seems to be more on the order of 20.00 to 30.00 complete BCG versus bolt assembly.
BCM bolts are about $70-80 while the complete BCGs are about $170. Colt carriers are $110 IIRC. That’s what I based it off of.
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I just blew out an LMT enhanced Bolt with ~2000rds on it. Shit happens. If I didn't have a spare bolt around, my MRP Upper would've been out of commission.
Where did it break? Lugs or cam pin hole?
Send it...
10-01-18, 17:03
Where did it break? Lugs or cam pin hole?
Same question. I thought those were bullet proof....
556BlackRifle
10-01-18, 17:26
For the average guy a spring kit (all springs), all roll pins, all detents, takedown and pivot pins, a bolt + cam pin or bolt rebuild kit + cam pin, firing pin, should be more than sufficient. A quality bolt carrier is probably not going to fail although I guess anything is possible. I agree with 26Infantry about getting a spare rifle. :D
I agree with 556BlackRifle. I bought a spare bolt 18 years ago, and I've still yet to need or use it, though it is a good thing to have around. The parts I found myself needing but never having are various springs, pins and detents, not the bigger parts of which I seem to always have in abundance.
We (Forward Controls Design) created couple of kits based on my experience shooting and building ARs, one has just springs, but four take down and pivot pin springs instead of two (the take down pin spring is easy to bend). The other is a detent and pins kit, 4 take down and pivot detents (since they lost easily), 2 selector detents (considered wear items), a buffer retaining pin, bolt catch pin and plunger, and trigger guard pin.
Where did it break? Lugs or cam pin hole?
Same question. I thought those were bullet proof....
Thought they were too. Bottom lug had a huge chunk break off.
This topic and variations of it have been covered ad nauseum here before. Assuming one wants to actually search for it.
I read of one failing once and the pawl pushed into the carrier locking the gun up. Winning the powerball is monumentally more likely.
I’ve not won the powerball yet, but I have seen ,while overseas, a forward assist fail and lock the gun up. Rare, but made me question the value of one.
Well, for what it is worth, Stoner never wanted the forward assist. The Army insisted on it. Remember the M1, M1 carbine, and M14 had the operating rod attached to the bolt and you could manually shove the bolt home so they wanted that on the AR15. Stoner felt that the forward assist could turn a minor problem into a major one by jamming a round so thoroughly in the chamber you would need a rod or other tool to get it out.
I want to thank everyone for their suggestions and I will take your suggestions into account as I build up my spare part supply.
Anything can fail and jam up the weapon, FA is but one of the components. My buffer retaining pin broke after 20 years, you can agree it's no reason to not have one. Also, the tool's being misused and abused by users is also no reason for its demise. Anything can be misused and abused to cause failure. During testing a few years back, I was able to over rotate any semi auto safety with sufficient torque, out of its SAFE and FIRE detent holes, onto what would normally be BURST or AUTO. This again illustrates anything can fail if one tries hard enough, intentionally or otherwise, but it isn't justification for its omission given its usefulness.
We put serrations forward of the gas vents on our SBCG to make it into an impromptu FA. A real FA will be able to exert more force with its pawl onto the carrier than a finger actuated/pushed action, we put the serrations there because it's otherwise wasted space, and it's a good location to close the out of battery bolt gently.
This is a pre-production SBCG and no longer made, production SBCGs are based on M16 carriers, using Ned's OCKS, torqued and staked by the experts at Sionics, and NP3 coated.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i314/Duffypoo/IMG_3331_zpskzu806vi.jpg (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/Duffypoo/media/IMG_3331_zpskzu806vi.jpg.html)
Any thing can fail, true. But, at the risk of hijacking my own thread, Stoner's reasoning was that if the bolt failed to go into battery you simply extracted the round with the charging handle and loaded the next round. If that failed to chamber you investigated the reason for the stoppage. What you didn't want to do was force the round into the chamber and then have the round jammed in the chamber. And to really make things worse the case fails to extract and the rim is torn off. Now you have a real problem. Let's be clear the only purpose of the forward assist is to force the bolt into battery. The use of the forward assist to "silently close the bolt" is an after the fact justification. The Air Force agreed with Stoner and their rifles didn't have the forward assist.
The FA's purpose is to force a round into battery. Whether it's a good idea or not, while your argument is valid, so is the opposing view. Stoner might not have thought it necessary in the design, the Army did, from what I assume combat experience and what its users demanded. Many combat weapons designed around that time and came after also had a similar function designed into the charging handle, and some, like HK roller locked weapons, either had an indentation with finger grooves, or added the FA (HK G41), so I dare say it isn't a bad idea shunned by major manufacturers.
ETA: sorry about the hijack :)
This topic and variations of it have been covered ad nauseum here before. Assuming one wants to actually search for it.
This is ARFcom subject matter from the late nineties... but.. what the hell? It's a slow day.
Who would know better than the stoner company, knights armament.
(1x) Ejector
(1x) Ejector Roll Pin
(1x) Ejector Spring
(1x) Extractor
(1x) Extractor Pivot Pin
(2x) Extractor Springs, Heavy
(1x) Cam Pin
(1x) Firing Pin
(1x) Firing Pin Retainer Pin
(3x) Gas Rings
That's the whole BCG minus the bolt and carrier.
Who would know better than the stoner company, knights armament.
(1x) Ejector
(1x) Ejector Roll Pin
(1x) Ejector Spring
(1x) Extractor
(1x) Extractor Pivot Pin
(2x) Extractor Springs, Heavy
(1x) Cam Pin
(1x) Firing Pin
(1x) Firing Pin Retainer Pin
(3x) Gas Rings
Anything can fail and jam up the weapon, FA is but one of the components. <SNIP>
We put serrations forward of the gas vents on our SBCG to make it into an impromptu FA. A real FA will be able to exert more force with its pawl onto the carrier than a finger actuated/pushed action, we put the serrations there because it's otherwise wasted space, and it's a good location to close the out of battery bolt gently.
This is a pre-production SBCG and no longer made, production SBCGs are based on M16 carriers, using Ned's OCKS, torqued and staked by the experts at Sionics, and NP3 coated.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i314/Duffypoo/IMG_3331_zpskzu806vi.jpg (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/Duffypoo/media/IMG_3331_zpskzu806vi.jpg.html)
Thats a good looking BCG. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
I confess, I’ve not read much of this thread so if someone has already stated this I apologize. I keep all my spare parts together inside a Colt 6720. I’d like to shoot 1000’s of rounds per year but I don’t. So if my BCM goes down the Colt steps up. Highly unlikely either one would go TU on me.
The sionics kit listed above and a bolt along with a recoil spring would be a good start.
I personally have spare lpks, loose parts, stocks, etc on hand. Actually had an issue with a bcm 20 inch rifle the other day. Buffer retaining pin failed. Couldn't tell you if it was the stock one as the lower was bought before bcm sold them with a2 stocks so the buffer tube was swapped a while ago. The stock screw wouldn't come loose and actually started to turn the buffer tube. Ended up just swapping a new a1 stock with buffer on after the range trip. Gun is probability close to 10 years old and has thousands of rounds through it.
But how often do hammers and trigger pins break? I can see loosing them if you disassemble the lower but how often do you need to do that even to clean it? In the Army the operator was never authorized to do that. I can see having replacement parts for field stripped items that you might drop and loose.
Its more of an issue on blowback guns like the 9mm ars but it can happen in normal 5.56 guns as well. More of an issue in high round count weapons.
Seth8, how can the disconnecter and forward assist fail? I know that anything mechanical can fail, but it seems to me that the mean rounds between failure must be very high for those parts. Does anyone know of a chart that lists the MRBF for the various parts?
The disconnector can fail and cause a discharge on the reset.
The FA can fall out or lock up the BCG.
The reason to keep a BCG on hand is because you can swap it out in 30 seconds rather than trying to diagnose issues by taking things apart.
I've heard of the FA's pawl break a few times. This is the reason we make our LDFA completely from scratch in the US. When the idea of LDFA was conceived, I thought about simply modifying existing FAs, the problem was I could never find the actual manufacturers, much less the country of origin.
So we make everything from scratch in order to control the quality of each part, and the final assembly and QC.
Which reminds me of something that backs up what I said earlier in this thread, that anything can fail, intentionally or otherwise. A customer returned an LDFA because his brother had it held down/pushed in while firing a shot, of course the pawl broke. The design isn't the problem, neither is the material, the user was.
The reason to keep a BCG on hand is because you can swap it out in 30 seconds rather than trying to diagnose issues by taking things apart.
True, and not to be a dick.... but why would this be necessary? Even faster is a second rifle.
If something goes wrong on a gun, I want to drill down to the issue right away.
Doc Safari
10-03-18, 09:43
I keep spare rifles and spare parts. One thing to keep in mind with parts is: Would you be able to install them yourself? If not, then you are wasting your money keeping spares. I keep maybe one each of things I'd have to have a gunsmith install just in case it's a situation where I don't want to depend on him to order good quality parts. Other than that, the only spares I keep are ones I know I can install myself: extractor & spring, bolt rings, firing pin, etc. To a certain extent I'm confident I could swap out FCG parts, but frankly I'd rather not tackle things that require a lot of extensive disassembly, like the barrel, for example.
I know it's been discussed before so I'm just bringing it up to reiterate: Checking headspace with a new bolt. Necessary or not?
I know there are opinions that the nature of the way an AR is constructed make checking headspace somewhat redundant. I'm not sure if those opinions are valid are not, but there are evidently a LOT of people who have no qualms about installing a new bolt without checking headspace. For myself, I'd feel paranoid not checking.
titsonritz
10-03-18, 09:45
My thoughts are a spare bolt and firing covers a lot of bases, not really concerned about bolt failure but rather a broken extractor, worn out ejector, gas or FP, can all be taken care of with a bolt change in the field, no need to tear the bolt apart to install a rebuild kit. It's hard to have a extra rifle in your pocket but a spare bolt is easy peasy.
Or you could actually learn how do it. We aren't building a race car engine or nuclear reactor.
I keep spare rifles and spare parts. One thing to keep in mind with parts is: Would you be able to install them yourself? If not, then you are wasting your money keeping spares. I keep maybe one each of things I'd have to have a gunsmith install just in case it's a situation where I don't want to depend on him to order good quality parts. Other than that, the only spares I keep are ones I know I can install myself: extractor & spring, bolt rings, firing pin, etc. To a certain extent I'm confident I could swap out FCG parts, but frankly I'd rather not tackle things that require a lot of extensive disassembly, like the barrel, for example.
I know it's been discussed before so I'm just bringing it up to reiterate: Checking headspace with a new bolt. Necessary or not?
I know there are opinions that the nature of the way an AR is constructed make checking headspace somewhat redundant. I'm not sure if those opinions are valid are not, but there are evidently a LOT of people who have no qualms about installing a new bolt without checking headspace. For myself, I'd feel paranoid not checking.
MorphCross
10-03-18, 16:36
A customer returned an LDFA because his brother had it held down/pushed in while firing a shot, of course the pawl broke. The design isn't the problem, neither is the material, the user was.
I he-eard iffin ye hold in that thar button it gives you super extra forward thrust for hypersonic mode! :sarcastic:
On a more serious note, if it is concern for a rifle going down in a training class environment than the two rifles is one and one rifle is none would be ideal. For range days just cut the day short and fix it at home. For home defense...transition to a secondary. All of the parts breakage scenarios are going to be based on the circumstances.
For me, I stick with the revival kit at home and the spare bolt/cam pin/firing pin in the PG on all the rifles.
Gunsnguitars
10-03-18, 16:51
Good thread. I'm sub'd.
My main spare parts kit primarily consists of another rifle. I need to put together a box or bag that has many of the parts recommended. It's a pitiful shame, really, that I have not already done so...At least to a greater degree than I have thus far.
Gunsnguitars
10-03-18, 16:56
My thoughts are a spare bolt and firing covers a lot of bases, not really concerned about bolt failure but rather a broken extractor, worn out ejector, gas or FP, can all be taken care of with a bolt change in the field, no need to tear the bolt apart to install a rebuild kit. It's hard to have a extra rifle in your pocket but a spare bolt is easy peasy.
Exactly what I was thinking. Good post. It may not cover everything, but it covers a lot in a pinch, and the things I would consider to be most susceptible to breaks. An entire BCG with bolt would be where I would start.
MorphCross
10-03-18, 17:00
Good thread. I'm sub'd.
I need to put together a box or bag that has many of the parts recommended.
Pro-tip:https://www.amazon.com/Storage-Stackable-Interlocking-Containers-Findings/dp/B001AS6OLK/ref=asc_df_B001AS6OLK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194857335027&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3137827163873184696&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023193&hvtargid=pla-315005189252&psc=1 and print paper labels for each part. It doesn't take up much space on a work-bench.
Throw in a cam pin and a firing pin retaining pin too.
Very compact and pretty complete.
My thoughts are a spare bolt and firing covers a lot of bases, not really concerned about bolt failure but rather a broken extractor, worn out ejector, gas or FP, can all be taken care of with a bolt change in the field, no need to tear the bolt apart to install a rebuild kit. It's hard to have a extra rifle in your pocket but a spare bolt is easy peasy.
Exactly what I was thinking. Good post. It may not cover everything, but it covers a lot in a pinch, and the things I would consider to be most susceptible to breaks. An entire BCG with bolt would be where I would start.
True, and not to be a dick.... but why would this be necessary? Even faster is a second rifle.
If something goes wrong on a gun, I want to drill down to the issue right away.
So your argument that the BCG is an expensive part to keep on hand doesn't negate your argument that a spare rifle with optic and light is a more appropriate spare?
I've done both. Spare BCG is a lot faster since you don't have to sight in while everyone else is eating lunch.
Since people are talking about fixing guns at the range, I’ll throw this out: yesterday I had a stuck live round in the chamber, from a crumpled/folded case neck. I was not prepared with a Leatherman/Gerber type tool, nor did I bring a cleaning rod. Fortunately someone squared me away, so I was able to keep shooting. I’ll be putting a cleaning rod in my rifle case.
RobertTheTexan
10-04-18, 09:28
Given a M4gery, what spare parts, given normal wear and tear, should I keep on hand? I am thinking about operator level repairs/part replacement and parts that are likely to wear out and fail under normal (range) usage. So no armorer's work like barrel replacement or any thing that would require special tools. By way of example something like spare gas rings. I see a lot of lists but they seem to list parts that the average use would never replace and/or unlikely to break. So what I am asking is what is a realistic list.
That's easy.
Enough spare parts to build another AR.
So your argument that the BCG is an expensive part to keep on hand doesn't negate your argument that a spare rifle with optic and light is a more appropriate spare?
I've done both. Spare BCG is a lot faster since you don't have to sight in while everyone else is eating lunch.
No. What I'm saying is (for example) if you have 5 ARs, and keep 3 spare BCGs... you'll never need all the BCGs. One, mayyyyybe, on an outside chance. But if that happended, you could use it and repair the failed part, or order another one. I just think multiple BCGs is overkill. People can keep what they want... It's just not logical to me.
No. What I'm saying is (for example) if you have 5 ARs, and keep 3 spare BCGs... you'll never need all the BCGs. One, mayyyyybe, on an outside chance. But if that happended, you could use it and repair the failed part, or order another one. I just think multiple BCGs is overkill. People can keep what they want... It's just not logical to me.
Better to have a few ARs and a single spare BCG.
At least one box like this.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/28b0c2464e0ba61bd4d3a4ca36e104ee/tumblr_pg5m0vUcZJ1rrcg2fo1_1280.jpg
redpillregret
10-05-18, 20:57
At least one box like this.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/28b0c2464e0ba61bd4d3a4ca36e104ee/tumblr_pg5m0vUcZJ1rrcg2fo1_1280.jpg
Agreed except the accu-wedged and ambi-safeties.
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MorphCross
10-05-18, 21:24
At least one box like this.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/28b0c2464e0ba61bd4d3a4ca36e104ee/tumblr_pg5m0vUcZJ1rrcg2fo1_1280.jpg
Running low on ejector springs... and darn it you've mixed your forward assists and hammers into your firing pin compartment. :haha:
Otherwise that is a very complete set of spares.
At least one box like this.
I like these, they have boxes similar to the one you picture.
Upon enlargement of you picture I notice that you also have the same problem I have with your dividers not staying flushe to the floor. I just run a seam of superglue along the bottom of the divider tab and stick it into place.
I'm not worried about changing the configuration of the boxes I've done this do this on, they are for small parts and I got a final layout firm before I got frustrated with my selector springs migrating into my take down detent spring area and finally took steps to correct the issue.
I like these, they have boxes similar to the one you picture.
Upon enlargement of you picture I notice that you also have the same problem I have with your dividers not staying flushe to the floor. I just run a seam of superglue along the bottom of the divider tab and stick it into place.
I'm not worried about changing the configuration of the boxes I've done this do this on, they are for small parts and I got a final layout firm before I got frustrated with my selector springs migrating into my take down detent spring area and finally took steps to correct the issue.
That’s a good idea, I also have that problem.
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Buy a complete bolt and a lower build kit,
Buy a complete bolt and a lower build kit,
Just carry two ARs if thats the case. Maybe also a clamp, barrel nut and castle nut wrench while at it too. Lol.
Outlander Systems
11-29-18, 08:11
https://www.primaryarms.com/anderson-manufacturing-oops-kit-am-556-lw-oops-kit
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