Issues with Noveske SPR barrel and Surefire FH

[MadAngler1]

Many moons ago I built myself a SPR style upper with an 18” Noveske barrel with a pinned switch block. I finally got a 5.56 SOCOM suppressor, so last night I took off the Smith Enterprises Vortex FH (which came off easily) and attempted to place a Surefire SOCOM FH on the end of the barrel.

After cleaning the threads of the flash hider and barrel with acetone, I went ahead and put the FH on by hand. After 7-8 turns, it was unusually tight. Stupid me, I went ahead and used my torque wrench at 25 ft-lbs. For the love of me I cannot get it down to seat with the shoulder and now I can’t screw it back off even with the torque wrench at 35 ft - lbs. I had the upper on a Geissele reaction rod, but I’m not comfortable torquing it any harder than that.

So I’m guessing my threads or the FH is out of spec. Any thoughts on what I should do? I would prefer to ship it to a gunsmith at this point. I fear I may have ruined the barrel and the threads :-(

Edited to add: I live in Indiana, so any recs for a good smith in the Ohio or Indiana area are welcome

[GH41]

What happened is called galling. Basically 2 unlubricated surfaces friction welding themselves together. Real common if one or both are stainless steel. I have seen one inch bolts shear before the nut came off. An experienced smith or machinist may be able to get them apart and chase the barrel threads but I doubt they will guarantee success. Sorry.

[Biggy]

I would apply a liberal amount of Kroil penetrating oil to it with the barrel standing vertically and muzzle down. Probably let it work for 4 hours, then try to remove the Muzzle device at 35ft lbs or maybe a little higher. If that doesn’t work, like the above poster recommended, an experienced machinist could try milling the muzzle device down to remove it and then rechase the threads. At some point cutting and shortening the barrel by about one inch and rethreading and recrowning may also be an option.

[MadAngler1]

What happened is called galling. Basically 2 unlubricated surfaces friction welding themselves together. Real common if one or both are stainless steel. I have seen one inch bolts shear before the nut came off. An experienced smith or machinist may be able to get them apart and chase the barrel threads but I doubt they will guarantee success. Sorry.

I figured it was gauling. I should have stopped. I’ve had a few guns with tight threads the first time you screw on or time a FH. It was dumb that I kept going.

I’ll try the oil mentioned, but I think it’s best if I ship this one out.

[GH41]

I would advise against using a reaction rod. More than one of us has removed the barrel from the extension doing this. I know it shouldn't but it does happen. The barrel should be clamped in a vise if at all possible.

[Chris Bonesteel]

Dont be afraid to use a little heat, and dont be scared of going over 35 lbs/ft removing. Its amazing what a couple hundred degrees will do, no more heat than a single mag dump but will do wonders for loosening. You dont want to damage anything by twisting it too much but 35 foot pounds is nothing, can go considerably higher without risking anything.
If it was only tightened to 25 foot pounds, you should be able to remove it yourself, use care, but dont be afraid of a little extra oomph

[MegademiC]

I thought using a tourque wrench to remove stuff was bad.
I would soak in kroil/slip2k/penetrating oil, clamp the barrel, heat it, and try using a wrench and hammer, or impact wrench

[Iraqgunz]

If you do a search you will discover that there has been an issue with some SF suppressor mounts/flash hiders and barrels. I would not be surprised at this point if your threads are not completely trashed. Something like these.

54339

54340

[vicious_cb]

If you do a search you will discover that there has been an issue with some SF suppressor mounts/flash hiders and barrels. I would not be surprised at this point if your threads are not completely trashed. Something like these.

54339

54340

First Ive heard about this. Got a link? I want to know since I have a few warcomps waiting to go on some barrels and want to know if my muzzle device is affected.

[Iraqgunz]

You're going to just have to search. I have seen it in several of the Facebook clone homo groups. Basically what people need to understand is that a muzzle device should thread on with minimal effort by hand. Anything more than that and you need to ask why.


First Ive heard about this. Got a link? I want to know since I have a few warcomps waiting to go on some barrels and want to know if my muzzle device is affected.

[MadAngler1]

You're going to just have to search. I have seen it in several of the Facebook clone homo groups. Basically what people need to understand is that a muzzle device should thread on with minimal effort by hand. Anything more than that and you need to ask why.

Thanks. I’m sending it to ADCO tomorrow. I’m guessing the barrel threads will need to be revised. It was stupid that I did that, but I’ve had a few rifles with “tight” threads......not as bad as this though.

[BufordTJustice]

You're going to just have to search. I have seen it in several of the Facebook clone homo groups. Basically what people need to understand is that a muzzle device should thread on with minimal effort by hand. Anything more than that and you need to ask why.

Agreed. +1000

None of my muzzle devices have ever required more than light finger tip pressure to twirl them onto the threads.


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[MadAngler1]

I got the upper back. Took less than a week. Looks like they used the new FH i sent in and discarded the old one. It would also appear that they didn’t have to cut the barrel back as far as I could tell. I will post a range report this weekend. They sent me no paper telling me what they wound up doing though, and ADCO would not email me back