View Full Version : Changing muzzle device without upper vise block, any risk of damage?
I am swapping up a flash hider for a muzzle brake. Watching instruction on YouTube, it looks straight forward. But I only have a lower mag style vise block and no upper vise block. It is necessary to buy one? I was planning to lay the separated upper on it's sides again my work bench and twist it off and swap in muzzle brake
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Maybe you could make some barrel blocks to secure your barrel?
https://modernrifleman.net/2015/03/01/how-to-cheap-and-easy-barrel-blocks-for-muzzle-device-work/
I am swapping up a flash hider for a muzzle brake. Watching instruction on YouTube, it looks straight forward. But I only have a lower mag style vise block and no upper vise block. It is necessary to buy one? I was planning to lay the separated upper on it's sides again my work bench and twist it off and swap in muzzle brake
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If it's almost brand new you might get away with that technique, but if it's got some mileage on it (meaning any substantial carbon build-up) you should stabilize the upper or the barrel. It can be sometimes difficult to break free.
If it's almost brand new you might get away with that technique, but if it's got some mileage on it (meaning any substantial carbon build-up) you should stabilize the upper or the barrel. It can be sometimes difficult to break free.So something like this will work?
https://www.primaryarms.com/guntec-usa-two-piece-ar15-upper-receiver-vise-block
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So something like this will work?
https://www.primaryarms.com/guntec-usa-two-piece-ar15-upper-receiver-vise-block
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Yeah that will work. Or if you've got a 2 X 4 laying around you could try the clamps that 26 Inf linked to. I've actually used DIY clamps like that. As long as the carbon build-up isn't too bad they can work saving you some bucks. If they don't work then you can get the clam shells.
I am swapping up a flash hider for a muzzle brake. Watching instruction on YouTube, it looks straight forward. But I only have a lower mag style vise block and no upper vise block. It is necessary to buy one? I was planning to lay the separated upper on it's sides again my work bench and twist it off and swap in muzzle brake
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Does your AR have a front sight block? If so, pad your vise jaws and clamp the front sight base in the vise.
After some reading online, I think I will invest in a Magpul Bevblock..will probably need it in the future to work on the rifle.
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After some reading online, I think I will invest in a Magpul Bevblock..will probably need it in the future to work on the rifle.
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The proper way to remove/install a muzzle device is by holding the barrel as close to the MD as possible. The BevBloc/Reaction rod type tools are best used for removing/installing barrel nuts.
After some reading online, I think I will invest in a Magpul Bevblock..will probably need it in the future to work on the rifle.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk I couldn't get my device off without using a vice block but it was a couple of years old and carbon locked it on good so it's a decent investment.
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Five_Point_Five_Six
01-12-19, 08:11
If I were only going to use it once or twice I could see going with the Bev Block to save a few bucks, but for more frequent use you'd be better served by the Geissele Reaction Rod. The Bev Block is kind of a rickety POS.
If you anticipate doing much.any AR mods or fabricating- invest in some proper tools.
AR "building" usually turns into "a thing".
I've switched them around plenty of times with a mag block and had no issues. Especially if they're factory installed, they'll be tightened to spec. You run into problems when Bubba put it on with a tire iron.
Maybe you could make some barrel blocks to secure your barrel?
https://modernrifleman.net/2015/03/01/how-to-cheap-and-easy-barrel-blocks-for-muzzle-device-work/
I used to just cut a couple of v-notches in two 2x4 pieces and line with wet leather and that worked well. For the last few years I've used a Geissele Reaction Rod. That's a very useful tool for this and other things.
Never use a mag well vise block or upper receiver vise blocks to work on a muzzle device. Even the BEV Block and the Reaction Rod style tools can cause you to loosen the barrel from the extension.
Barrel blocks are the best way to install or remove a muzzle device.
I bought a Reaction Rod a couple of years ago and it’s been invaluable. I’ve since found another company that makes a similar tool for about $40 cheaper.
https://www.botach.com/kley-zion-barrel-spline-socket-rod-for-ar15-m4-ar10-sr25-upper-receivers/
My iPhone XS Max is better than your android!
My oversight in original post. This is for a new 16inch complete upper with extended 15 free-floating handguard. I don't want to remove and reassemble the handguard and I haven't found any barrel vise that is less than an inch. That's why I am leaning towards Magpul BevBlock.
I was also thinking of using a small curved jaw vise-grip lock plier (lined with leather cushion) to "stabilize" the barrel right next to muzzle device. Think that will help?
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I was also thinking of using a small curved jaw vise-grip lock plier (lined with leather cushion) to "stabilize" the barrel right next to muzzle device. Think that will help?
No. That's the Good Idea Fairy talking to you.
My oversight in original post. This is for a new 16inch complete upper with extended 15 free-floating handguard. I don't want to remove and reassemble the handguard and I haven't found any barrel vise that is less than an inch. That's why I am leaning towards Magpul BevBlock.
I was also thinking of using a small curved jaw vise-grip lock plier (lined with leather cushion) to "stabilize" the barrel right next to muzzle device. Think that will help?
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No...bad idea. OTOH, I can see using the BEV Block, especially if you only have a small amount of exposed barrel. I've never used it but I have a buddy who has and he still likes it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUcolu4-3mY
My oversight in original post. This is for a new 16inch complete upper with extended 15 free-floating handguard. I don't want to remove and reassemble the handguard and I haven't found any barrel vise that is less than an inch. That's why I am leaning towards Magpul BevBlock.
I was also thinking of using a small curved jaw vise-grip lock plier (lined with leather cushion) to "stabilize" the barrel right next to muzzle device. Think that will help?
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M-Guns has a nifty tool called "Rench" that might work depending on how much exposed barrel you have to work with. > http://www.m-guns.com/tools.php
My oversight in original post. This is for a new 16inch complete upper with extended 15 free-floating handguard. I don't want to remove and reassemble the handguard and I haven't found any barrel vise that is less than an inch. That's why I am leaning towards Magpul BevBlock.
I was also thinking of using a small curved jaw vise-grip lock plier (lined with leather cushion) to "stabilize" the barrel right next to muzzle device. Think that will help?
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Maybe I'm misunderstanding, are you saying the free floating rail won't fit over the muzzle device?
Because I can't think of a free float rail that is so difficult to remove and reinstall that I would consider using vise-grips to accomplish the job in the way you are anticipating.
I'm a bit of a shade tree guy, and faced with a 1 Inch area to work in, for some reason I cant imagine, there are a couple of things I'd do before using vise grips - 1) use a hardwood 4x4 to cut a !inch slab and build barrel blocks; 3) try a strap wrench; 4) take a piece of good belt leather and cradle the barrel while laying the barrel into a pipe wrench - when you twist the muzzle device the barrel will be driven into the pipe wrench and tighten against the leather pad accomplishing what you want to do with the vise grips.
But, for goodness sake take the free-float tube off and use barrel blocks. If you use the bev block or reaction rod and the barrel starts to twist out of the extension you are going to screw up several things.
Isn't the barrel extension threaded onto the barrel with somewhere around 150 ft lb of torque?
Removing a new muzzle device should require well under 50 ft lbs of torque.....so I don't comprehend
why using a BEV Block or Reaction Rod would cause a problem. If the muzzle device doesn't want to
spin off and it's taking what seems like 100+ ft lbs, then an alternate solution is advised.
I've used my Reaction Rod multiple times for muzzle devices, and none of them required an inappropriate
amount of effort.
bamashooter
01-12-19, 21:09
I have the Geissele AR15 Reaction Rod and it has served me well. Would have bought the Midwest Industries version had I known about it. I then found this and would have considered it over the other two based on price and availability. http://www.davesmetalworks.com/tools.html
MorphCross
01-12-19, 21:16
Locking on to the barrel for muzzle device install/removal will always be the best practice. Torque applied as close to fixing apparatus is also the best practice. That is why everyone is telling the OP to use barrel blocks as opposed to the reaction rod/bevblock/upper clamp.
Thanks for all advice... This is for a BCM upper and I asked BCM to leave included muzzle device loose (no California featureless complaint).. Hopefully, it will unscrew easily..
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