View Full Version : Replacing flash hider that’s pinned and welded
Hey all,
Today I ordered my first suppressor I went with a Surefire 762 Socom Mini 2. I plan to use it for both my SAI SOCOM 16 when I change the flash hider and for my AR15s. My question is my BCM is a 14.5” upper with a pinned and welded A2 flash hider so it doesn’t qualify as an SBR. I want to mainly use that rifle with the suppressor but I’d have to swap out the flash hider with a Surefire. Can I have the old flash hider removed and get a Surefire pinned and welded on?
You can, most decent gunsmiths will do it. Or send to Retro Arms Works.
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There are YouTube videos showing DIY removal of pinned muzzle device. So it can be done with rotary tools and wrenches. But there is risk of damage to barrel thread.
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I've removed a few the hard way by splitting the muzzle device with a dremel. Without knowing how deep the pin/weld is, I've just sacrificed the device. It's slow process.
I've removed a couple of BCM A2Xs.
I took a big pipeliner file and filed off the weld, then took a little hammer and tapped on the flash hider right next to the pin to get the pin to walk out a little bit. Grabbed it with pliers and pulled it out.
Flash hider and pin were reusable.
I've removed a couple of BCM A2Xs.
I took a big pipeliner file and filed off the weld, then took a little hammer and tapped on the flash hider right next to the pin to get the pin to walk out a little bit. Grabbed it with pliers and pulled it out.
Flash hider and pin were reusable.
That's some good info, thanks.:D
Or send to Retro Arms Works.
This.
John Thomas does great work. He had my barrel for a whole three hours (arrived at 10 a.m. and I received a shipping notification at 1 p.m. the same day).
I'm not sure I could have ordered a new barrel and had it overnighted in as quick a time as he had my barrel back to me.
Unless you don't mind potentially sacrificing the barrel I'd send it to a pro. There are a few ways to screw it up. But, if you've done that type of work before go for it.
BTW Congrats on getting the suppressor
Just make sure you have confidence in the armorer doing the work and get in writing what they will do if they mess up the barrel.
Worst case scenario is you buy a new barrel get the correct surefire pinned and either sell or keep the original as a spare.
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titsonritz
01-26-19, 16:28
If in doubt, sent it out.
That said don't just take it to someone a "Gunsmith" shingle, know who you are sending it to. You'll want to include your barrel nut and gas block if planning to change any of that out, this would be the time to do it.
All these removal operations go smoothly until they don’t.
You never hear about anyone’s failure at this. You never hear about seized up threads or how the pin was pressed in the dimple and was seized up.
OP, you need to sell your existing barrel and ether get a 16” barrel or an SBR.
All these removal operations go smoothly until they don’t.
You never hear about anyone’s failure at this. You never hear about seized up threads or how the pin was pressed in the dimple and was seized up.
Very true. I cut free an Olympic Arms barrel with 5.5" FS and thankfully it was only a barrel for pictures as the barrel threads did not end up in good shape. I was able to go over the threads and clean them up, but there is no question that it would never be suppressor worthy.
titsonritz
01-26-19, 18:08
All these removal operations go smoothly until they don’t.
You never hear about anyone’s failure at this. You never hear about seized up threads or how the pin was pressed in the dimple and was seized up.
OP, you need to sell your existing barrel and ether get a 16” barrel or an SBR.
And then there's that.
All these removal operations go smoothly until they don’t.
You never hear about anyone’s failure at this. You never hear about seized up threads or how the pin was pressed in the dimple and was seized up.
OP, you need to sell your existing barrel and ether get a 16” barrel or an SBR.
I am starting to feel the same.
I did mine. I used a rescue bit in a dremal , removed just the weld, even saved the pin.
Not bad just take your time.
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Oh yeah. I have one at my house right now that went down the toilet.
All these removal operations go smoothly until they don’t.
You never hear about anyone’s failure at this. You never hear about seized up threads or how the pin was pressed in the dimple and was seized up.
OP, you need to sell your existing barrel and ether get a 16” barrel or an SBR.
TexasAggie2005
01-28-19, 16:35
All these removal operations go smoothly until they don’t.
You never hear about anyone’s failure at this. You never hear about seized up threads or how the pin was pressed in the dimple and was seized up.
OP, you need to sell your existing barrel and ether get a 16” barrel or an SBR.
Guilty. I have a basically new BA Hanson 14.0" barrel with jacked up threads sitting at home. My only option is to find someone who will cut down a melonited barrel and rethread into a pistol/SBR length.
I learned my lesson.
Brought my 14.5 upper to my LGS and had them remove my A2 that was pinned and welded and added the Surefire Socom. They pinned and welded this muzzle break but I can’t help but notice the break is slightly off center or maybe it’s just me. Also looks like while welding they hit the bottom of the break just a tad. Does it matter if it’s off slightly?
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Brought my 14.5 upper to my LGS and had them remove my A2 that was pinned and welded and added the Surefire Socom. They pinned and welded this muzzle break but I can’t help but notice the break is slightly off center or maybe it’s just me. Also looks like while welding they hit the bottom of the break just a tad. Does it matter if it’s off slightly?
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Check it for coencentricity. If its off too much youll ruin your supressor and muzzle break.
Check it for coencentricity. If its off too much youll ruin your supressor and muzzle break.
How would I go about doing that?
Also, still waiting on the stamp for my suppressor so it’ll be a while.
I can't see how there would be a good way to remove a pinned FH and for sure protect the threads without sacking the device. MarkM's strategy is the only way.
There is no way to tell how deep the pin goes, how much it has been welded, if the hole for the pin left a big burr on the threads, or if too much heat was put in the FH when welding and seized the threads even if the pin was removed.
Removing one of these seems simple but you have to treat it like removing a stubborn automative fastener that is rusted/frozen/seized. It may come right off, or need destructive removal.
I can't see how there would be a good way to remove a pinned FH and for sure protect the threads without sacking the device. MarkM's strategy is the only way.
There is no way to tell how deep the pin goes, how much it has been welded, if the hole for the pin left a big burr on the threads, or if too much heat was put in the FH when welding and seized the threads even if the pin was removed.
Removing one of these seems simple but you have to treat it like removing a stubborn automative fastener that is rusted/frozen/seized. It may come right off, or need destructive removal.
Well it had an A2X which was removed. I had the socom installed on it since I’m waiting for my socom mini 2. I plan to use this rifle and my 300 blackout with the suppressor when I get it. I’m just wondering if this slight tilt will affect the rifle at all. I don’t mind it being slightly off as long as it doesn’t poorly affect the guy and suppressor.
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