View Full Version : Any preferred punches/punch set?
My only tools are some gunsmithing screwdrivers and the upgrade tool kit for M4 from Brownell’s. Also have the Gerber’s field tool for AR/M-16.
Do I need a set of punches for maintenance/changing parts and if so, may I have your recommendation for a good set?
Thanking you in advance...
MorphCross
02-02-19, 20:58
I've used Starrett along with vise fixturing. Also recommended roll pin holders to start the pins into their holes.
Go to this link and scroll down to the tool list.
http://www.semperparatusarms.com/ar15-armorer-course-information/
This is the tool list that Iraqgunz tells students to bring to his armorer course. Get the stuff on the list and you'll have everything you need.
Starret's are good punches.
In addition to what is on IG's list, I prefer short roll pin punches to 'start' stubborn pins out of a piece. You can control them better, and are less likely to bend them - although that generally isn't a problem on AR's.
Roll pin holders/starters - I buy from Brownell's because if you break them you can return them. I have a #35 holder being replaced at this time.
I also have a Geissele gas block roll pin tool which works great - https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/roll-pin-tool-for-gas-block-prod55671.aspx
gunnerblue
02-02-19, 22:39
Starrett punch set (though I’ve bent three of the 1/16”’s) and a Geissele has block roll pin starter. I also have a punch from Brownells that features interchangeable tips. This one gets a lot of use with brass and nylon inserts.
I’ve been happy with the Grace sets I bought from Brownells.
Ok quick question:
To change the charging handle latch I need to drive out a pin (without losing the spring). I figured I’d need a thin punch for this plus a hammer or mallet to tap it - but I will need a roll pin starter, too?
Just trying to clarify so that I’ll know what to buy.
Ok quick question:
To change the charging handle latch I need to drive out a pin (without losing the spring). I figured I’d need a thin punch for this plus a hammer or mallet to tap it - but I will need a roll pin starter, too?
Just trying to clarify so that I’ll know what to buy.
Here is a link to a video>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzZmonGJRXo A simple block of wood with a 1/8" hole drilled in it works as well as the fancy plastic block. Notice how she uses the punch as a slave pin. An easy trick to prevent losing exploding springs and parts is to put your hand holding the parts inside a 1 gallon ziploc bag.
everready73
02-03-19, 09:31
A clevis pin makes the takedown pins a breeze to install. Knipex pliers with tape around the Jaws is great in place of a punch to drive the pins.
This what I use to save a little cash:
55784
Thanks much for the excellent info and forward guidance, Gentlemen. I’m very grateful for your help!
When teaching Armorer Courses, we provide all the tools necessary for people to use, as it is our belief that we like people to get exposed to all the different tools that are available on the market, and when the leave our courses they can make an educated decision as to what tools to get. Having the proper tools and punches makes life easier, as compared to harder. The proper punches will help reduce the risk of damage to the pins and firearm that you working on. Knowing how to perform the necessary tasks to do maintenance, repair and modifications, with also knowing how to use the proper tools is a must IMHO.
A good set of the following punches for working on the AR15/AR308 type rifles, but can be used on other firearms, and sometimes you need other punches when working on other guns:
Drive Pin Punches 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", and 1/8".
Roll Pin Punches 1/16", 5/64",3/32", 1/8", 5/32".
Roll Pin Starter Punches 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8"
Bolt Catch Flat Sided Punch for moving and/or removing the bolt catch roll pin from the front of the receiver towards the rear.
Long Bolt Catch Punch for removal & installation of the bolt catch pin punch from the rear of the receiver towards the front.
Delrin punches in AR15 & AR308
Taper Pin Starter Punches
A good set of the following punches for working on the AR15/AR308 type rifles, but can be used on other firearms, and sometimes you need other punches when working on other guns:
Drive Pin Punches 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", and 1/8".
Roll Pin Punches 1/16", 5/64",3/32", 1/8", 5/32".
Roll Pin Starter Punches 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8"
Bolt Catch Flat Sided Punch for moving and/or removing the bolt catch roll pin from the front of the receiver towards the rear.
Long Bolt Catch Punch for removal & installation of the bolt catch pin punch from the rear of the receiver towards the front.
Delrin punches in AR15 & AR308
Taper Pin Starter Punches
^^^ THIS IS A GOLD MINE OF INFORMATION RIGHT HERE.
THANK YOU GREG!!!
Punches recommended on my site are standard type punches used by many shops and manufacturer's during assembly. Specialty punches like the short roll pin punches, Geissele punch, etc.. are discussed and demonstrated during my class.
SManzo1904
03-12-19, 11:24
Well, I can say I wouldn’t recommend the Wheeler set of punches. I have a had a couple that have bent over. I didn’t think I was going to hard on them but who knows.
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Punches recommended on my site are standard type punches used by many shops and manufacturer's during assembly. Specialty punches like the short roll pin punches, Geissele punch, etc.. are discussed and demonstrated during my class.
Hey, I need to thank you, a post you made a while back prompted me to send several punches, etc. back to Brownell's for replacement.
For those of you who have never done this, it was easy-peasy. Find the proper order in your online account data. Go to to the return column, click 'return items.' This will bring up a screen showing the items on that order. Click on the item you want to return, and a drop down list opens on the right side of the screen for you to chose the reason for the return. Next you get to type out a short reason for the return, then print out a return form which includes a postage paid label.
The hardest part was finding a suitable box to stick the label on and dropping it off at the post office.
One little bump I encountered was that when returning one roll pin holder (#35 pin holder) from a set, I apparently didn't make it clear enough that it was one item from the set and that I didn't want to return the entire set for exchange. When I got the item back with a note saying they couldn't exchange it because they didn't have a record, I called them expecting a hassle. Nope, the lady I talked with quickly understood the problem and immediately sent out a replacement. As a result I have the broken pin holder and a shiny new one.
This may appear to be off topic, but in reality, I'm just trying to 1) thank IG for prompting me to return the items; and 2) explain why it might be a good idea to source your tools from Brownell's.
Brownells are really REALLY good people.
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I’m just here to say that I find this not necessary but useful:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bolt-tools/dissassembly-tools/bolt-catch-pin-punch-prod26484.aspx
As well as:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/gas-block-punch-kit-prod68034.aspx
Only thing I can add is that when I have bent roll pin punches from my inexpensive Wheeler set, I have replaced the bent items with Brownells’ products. I’m taking notes myself on what senior members here have shared.
Thanks. It's also the reason why I tell people to order those items from them.
Hey, I need to thank you, a post you made a while back prompted me to send several punches, etc. back to Brownell's for replacement.
For those of you who have never done this, it was easy-peasy. Find the proper order in your online account data. Go to to the return column, click 'return items.' This will bring up a screen showing the items on that order. Click on the item you want to return, and a drop down list opens on the right side of the screen for you to chose the reason for the return. Next you get to type out a short reason for the return, then print out a return form which includes a postage paid label.
The hardest part was finding a suitable box to stick the label on and dropping it off at the post office.
One little bump I encountered was that when returning one roll pin holder (#35 pin holder) from a set, I apparently didn't make it clear enough that it was one item from the set and that I didn't want to return the entire set for exchange. When I got the item back with a note saying they couldn't exchange it because they didn't have a record, I called them expecting a hassle. Nope, the lady I talked with quickly understood the problem and immediately sent out a replacement. As a result I have the broken pin holder and a shiny new one.
This may appear to be off topic, but in reality, I'm just trying to 1) thank IG for prompting me to return the items; and 2) explain why it might be a good idea to source your tools from Brownell's.
We provide all the tools and punches for Armorer Course Students to use in class, as it is our belief that we like to expose everyone to all the tools possible, that way they can make an educated decision what to purchase.
We also like to point out that people need to purchase tools wisely. This means you get what you pay for, so purchasing quality is usually the best way to go. IMHO, the most important thing to obtain for working on firearms and other machinery where you are dealing with pins, is to purchase a quality set of punches, and those punches need to be the correct ones to use for whatever you are trying to accomplish.
Something else to consider is what you are working on. What we use in Armorer Courses is high end very durable tools and punches that last a long time, some are available on the market like Starrett, Snap-On, Mac, SK, Mayhew, Proto, and many of the punches and tools we use in class are ones that we make in house or obtain from specialty makers.
We train over 1000 Armorers annually, so the punches we choose to use in class are usually heavy duty punches, which hold up well and generally last longer. Keep in mind that all punches can get damaged or break, smaller ones get damaged and replaced lots more often as compared to the larger sizes. I can say that many of our 3/32", 1/8", 5/32" punches that are used in Armorer Courses, have been in service for several decades of 1000+ Armorers beating on them annually.
On the other side of the coin is that you need to consider what you are working on and for what purpose. An example is that if we are working on a customers gun where we need to be very careful not to cause damage to it during modifications and repairs, then we would often times choose a softer punch, the reasoning is that we would rather break or damage a punch versus damage a customers firearm.
PB Swiss makes the only punches I'll ever buy again.
PB Swiss makes the only punches I'll ever buy again.
PB Swiss pin punches are works of art, all I've seen are in mm, do you have a source for fractional?
If it's worth it to you. 1.5, 2, 3mm
Also, search this item on amazon, actually is handy.
US PeaceKeeper P21111 Small Punch Roll for Armorer's Tools
https://www.amazon.com/High-Quality-Professional-Chrome-Vanadium-Parallel/dp/B00ZU5V7Z2/ref=sr_1_91?keywords=pb+swiss&qid=1552820147&s=hi&sr=1-91
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=fraction+to+mm+conversion+chart&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
I was tired of using cheap crap so what I ended up doing was buying individual roll pin punches in the appropriate sizes from a Snap-On -truck guy I know. Along with a center punch for quality staking jobs. It was expensive like around $78 IIRC, but worth it in my opinion. If they bend or break I just return them the next week I see him no questions asked. Never had to get because they work so well though.
I also have a are of Squirrel Daddy 4" hollow end starter punches that really come in handy. I wish I would have known about them sooner.
If it's worth it to you. 1.5, 2, 3mm
No, if I was to drop the coin for those, they'd need to be proper size, not 'close.'
ETA: I went to the US Peacekeeper site: https://www.uspeacekeeper.com/collections/bags-packs/products/armorers-case#
They are having a 25% off free shipping sale for the next ten hours (as of 3:30PM CDT)
EDC backpack looks good, has the hidden CCW pocket I've been locking for: https://www.uspeacekeeper.com/collections/edc/products/edc-backpack#
Small Punch Roll: https://www.uspeacekeeper.com/collections/bags-packs/products/small-punch-roll# (some on Amazon complained too short for long punches - 15.5"l x 5.75"h (open) - also it's $5.99 here compared to 10.00 Amazon Prime)
Large Armorer Roll: https://www.uspeacekeeper.com/collections/shooting-mats/products/large-armorers-roll#
Armorers Briefcase: https://www.uspeacekeeper.com/collections/bags-packs/products/armorers-case#
If I was in the market to get a rig to take enough tools to the range to rebuild/repair rifles (I'm not - I go to the range to shoot) I'd probably give the Punch roll and the large armorer roll a shot.
Take a look at the rear rests: https://www.uspeacekeeper.com/collections/new-2018-products/products/rear-rest?variant=17974048751686
PB Swiss pin punches are works of art, all I've seen are in mm, do you have a source for fractional?
No, I use their metric punches. Although most of my firearms are/have been European, I've had no issues smacking imperial pins. As you know, punch work is delicate but not precise.
Additionally, it's usually substantially cheaper to buy high-end tools from abroad. Maurice at Prof-Tools (prof-tools.nl) will take care of you. Don't forget to binge on Gedore 1B wrenches while you're at it.
The small one houses the Bolt Catch Punch with ease and a small file to dress files if need be.
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