View Full Version : Bolt release VERY hard to release
Forgive me if this has been gone over. I am building a 224 Valkyrie rifle. I have built the lower already. It has an Aero lower, a Strike Industries Enhanced bolt catch and a JE Machine Tech silent recoil spring system. The problem I am having is that when I was double checking the lower with my well used S&W Vtac II upper, the bolt release was almost impossible to release. I did not matter if the mag was empty or full. I swapped out the one piece recoil spring system for the traditional spring and weight (that came with the Vtac II) and while stiff, releasing the bolt was doable. So I am guessing that the spring on the silent capture system is too heavy??(even though it has the lightest spring on it) Should I take one of the heavier springs that came with it and cut down the coils? According to the manufacturer, it comes with the 28 coil spring installed and it comes with a 34 and 38 coil spring. Thoughts, ideas?
I should also note that with just the lower, the bolt release moves freely and easily back and forth. I am using pmags and it did this with multiple different mags.
That's what happens when build with game gun stuff. You probably didn't do your research about this place.
Hey, welcome to the forum, GH41 makes the point that the emphasis on this forum is pretty much mil-spec type AR's.
Have you fired the rifle? Does it function?
When you say almost impossible to release are you saying even with a palm heel strike on the paddle?
Is it the Aero E1 receiver with the threaded bolt catch pin? If so is there any forward and back play in the bolt catch extension/lever which lays on the top of the mag well?
Generally you do not want to stretch or cut coils from springs, I would imagine the 34 and 38 coil springs are stouter, so I wouldn't think that is the answer.
I would put the JE silent spring domafluckey to the side until you get the rifle sorted out.
I got to ask though, why would you spend that money on a complete rifle and replace the lower with an Aero lower?
ViniVidivici
05-31-19, 22:00
Welcome to the forum!
I wonder if there's some kind of burr on the bolt catch somewhere, causing binding somewhere when the bolt is "loaded" against it?
Is there a big difference in the amount of rearward travel of the BCG, between when using this fancy stuff, and a standard buffer and spring?
Welcome to the forum!
I wonder if there's some kind of burr on the bolt catch somewhere, causing binding somewhere when the bolt is "loaded" against it?
Is there a big difference in the amount of rearward travel of the BCG, between when using this fancy stuff, and a standard buffer and spring?
Going off this, with just the lower, keep actuating the bolt catch and slowly apply pressure to the back. If it starts binding, you likely have a burr somewhere.
If this is all new, buy a factory gun, learn it, wear it out, then troubleshoot your current rifle.
Ok... First of all I am not replacing the Vtac II lower with the Aero lower. I built the Aero lower with all known, high quality parts (Odin works, Strike Industries, Hiperfire). The only non big name is the silent capture spring. I chose to use the JE one versus the JP Enterprises one because of cost and it did have good reviews. I built the lower from scratch, starting with the stripped lower. It was built for my 224 Valkyrie rifle that I am building. I figured the lower I built looked and appeared to function correctly. That is why I put the Vtac II upper on the built lower to just double check everything. It fired fine. The only difference (besides the bolt release being hard to push) is that the brass lands 98% at the 5 o'clock position, whereas the Vtac II, pretty much lands 100% at the 5 o'clock position. I will check the bolt release for burrs tomorrow. On a side note, I am familiar with AR 15's and have multiple guns in different calibers. I shoot them routinely and am comfortable with them. The rifle I am building will be my first one built from scratch, all the others factory made. It has been suggested that perhaps I chose the wrong forum to be part of, maybe that is the case. I was just hoping for some insight into what might be the issue.
Give the suggestions a try and let us know how it goes. I've never experienced this, so I'd be happy to learn how it goes.
Let's take this step by step. First, welcome to M4C, the internet's bastion of military grade M4 carbines and related firearms. I'm sorry to say that while Aero is used around here at times... Strike, Odin and Hyperfire don't exactly bring warm and fuzzy feelings around this place. You need to spend some time doing research and reading around here to get a feel for this site.
That said, I'm a friendly guy and would like to see you work out this issue. I might learn something along the way. When you're looking inside the action, how far back beyond the bolt release tab can you pull back the BCG with the charging handle? It should be right about 1/4". If it is not, you have a buffer/spring issue. Is the area on the bolt face that the tab engages burr free? Is the tab itself burr free? Is it hanging up when you don't have a magazine in the rifle and apply the bolt catch?
I have the very same problem with one of my lowers. The gap where the bolt release fits is too long. This allows the bolt release to rock and bind up (one of these days, I'll shim it to get rid of the problem). The rocking accelerates wear on the roll pin and the pivot hole through the bolt release and the binding will get worse over time. I've had to replace the bolt release and roll pin a couple of times. It has nothing to do with your action spring.
Strike Industries and Odin are garbage parts. Common sense needs to prevail. Install a standard MILSPEC style bolt catch and see if the issue continues.
It could be as simple as the bolt catch, or tolerance stacking or out of spec lower. Or a combination of all of these.
Ok... First of all I am not replacing the Vtac II lower with the Aero lower. I built the Aero lower with all known, high quality parts (Odin works, Strike Industries, Hiperfire). The only non big name is the silent capture spring. I chose to use the JE one versus the JP Enterprises one because of cost and it did have good reviews. I built the lower from scratch, starting with the stripped lower. It was built for my 224 Valkyrie rifle that I am building. I figured the lower I built looked and appeared to function correctly. That is why I put the Vtac II upper on the built lower to just double check everything. It fired fine. The only difference (besides the bolt release being hard to push) is that the brass lands 98% at the 5 o'clock position, whereas the Vtac II, pretty much lands 100% at the 5 o'clock position. I will check the bolt release for burrs tomorrow. On a side note, I am familiar with AR 15's and have multiple guns in different calibers. I shoot them routinely and am comfortable with them. The rifle I am building will be my first one built from scratch, all the others factory made. It has been suggested that perhaps I chose the wrong forum to be part of, maybe that is the case. I was just hoping for some insight into what might be the issue.
556BlackRifle
06-01-19, 12:20
OP, welcome to the forum. At this site you will get the non sugar coated truth. There is some good advice posted above, and if you listen to these folks you will learn a lot.
Best of luck.
I am a newby to this forum though a long-time lurker. But I have a lot of experience in building working uppers and lowers from milspec parts.
A milspec bolt catch, bolt catch spring, plunger, and roll-pin should be very cheap to acquire from a reputable brand. If I were facing these issues then I would buy and install the milspec parts on the lower and then verify function with a known-to-function upper. If this works, you can discard the flashy “gamer” parts. If it doesn’t then your lower is out of spec. Others may have given the same advice.
I too have succumbed to the temptation of these “better mousetrap” parts from time to time. I also have seen them fail when a $2 part would work.
Just my $0.02 but with trial-and-error testing, start with a working configuration and then adjust piece-by-piece until you identify the culprit.
Update: The Aero lower has a pin that screws in for the bolt catch. I pulled the bcg back and it might go back a smidge more than a 1/4 in past the tab (I am also a quilter, so I am pretty exact with my 1/4 inches, lol). The lower does not appear to have any burrs. I have taken out the bolt catch that I was using and felt all around and I felt no burrs, I also felt all the surfaces of the bolt catch I was using and everything there felt smooth too. The strike Industries bolt catch did appear to have a fair amount of side to side play in it. I put the mil spec one in (that came with the lower parts kit that I bought) and while it too also has some side to side play, it is not as much as the SI one. Testing the mil spec bolt catch, it now feels like it is supposed to. Thank you for your help.
ViniVidivici
06-01-19, 19:20
So it sounds like the SI bolt catch is poorly designed. Glad to hear the problem is solved.
Hello and welcome to the site AGoyette! I have been a machinist for 26 years, and run parts down to a few microns in tolerances, but I have never had the urge to build my own AR. Spent a lot of time pulling triggers on them in the Marines, but that was always a different animal to me than to try to build my own...basically, I just buy mine already built.
I'm glad you seem to be getting to the bottom of what your issue is, and even though I am an avid shooter, I don't know so much about the "build" area...there seem to be a lot of people here who do, so I spend more time reading a lot than I do posting. Anyways, welcome and remember that some of these people have a treasure trove of information and knowledge on how these rifles work, and may come across as bossy...their not, they just know what their talking about. :)
Update: The Aero lower has a pin that screws in for the bolt catch. I pulled the bcg back and it might go back a smidge more than a 1/4 in past the tab (I am also a quilter, so I am pretty exact with my 1/4 inches, lol). The lower does not appear to have any burrs. I have taken out the bolt catch that I was using and felt all around and I felt no burrs, I also felt all the surfaces of the bolt catch I was using and everything there felt smooth too. The strike Industries bolt catch did appear to have a fair amount of side to side play in it. I put the mil spec one in (that came with the lower parts kit that I bought) and while it too also has some side to side play, it is not as much as the SI one. Testing the mil spec bolt catch, it now feels like it is supposed to. Thank you for your help.
If you want a good, dead nut reliable bolt catch with an augmented paddle, this one will work: http://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/ABCR-v2_p_86.html
If you want a good, dead nut reliable bolt catch with an augmented paddle, this one will work: http://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/ABCR-v2_p_86.html
Assuming the problems lies with the bolt catch. In my case, the problem is with the lower being out of spec.
RobertTheTexan
06-02-19, 22:03
So it sounds like the SI bolt catch is poorly designed. Glad to hear the problem is solved.
Why am I not surprised...
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