View Full Version : Barrel scraping inside the slide?
The_War_Wagon
07-16-19, 21:16
DEFINITELY - but is it TOO "much?"
BRAND NEW TRP Operator slide, mated to a(n upgraded - & cerakoted) mil-spec frame. It was WAAAY too tight, first time at the range. Wouldn't cycle, and every shot FTE (10rds. was enough that day!).
My 'smitty lapped the slide a bit, and although it's still tight, the gun fires and cycles perfectly, BUT...
Noticed the top of bbl was rubbing the inside of the slide a bit. I took several shots, from slightly different angles/flash, so hopefully they've done it some justice.
Area in question in particular, is to the right/below the "o" in "Auto"
https://i.ibb.co/48DPvkP/100-5391-crop.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/g4Vp53b/100-5384-crop.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/DYPF7Vy/100-5388-crop.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/bNgyjkk/100-5382-crop.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Y70hPm0/100-5383-crop.jpg
My fingers are old and calloused, but I can't perceptively FEEL any 'roughness' to that area, which of course, means nothing.
What dost the brain trust think? Normal? Acceptable, Troublesome? Or...???
Put 200 rds. of Blazer aluminum through it, for reference. NO FTF's or FTE's, for reference.
Based on my own experience, and having spent time with a smith who's specialty is the 1911, I would hazard a guess that is unacceptable, to the point of troublesome in the long term. Fitment issue, maybe??
The_War_Wagon
07-17-19, 21:13
Based on my own experience, and having spent time with a smith who's specialty is the 1911, I would hazard a guess that is unacceptable, to the point of troublesome in the long term. Fitment issue, maybe??
Someone suggested taking about the Shok-Buff, and trying it again. If that doesn't fix it, then maybe having my smitty sand a bit on the inside of the slide, for some necessary clearance. Short any other ideas, will try it w/o the Shok-Buff next week at the range.
Inside of slide Cerracoated?
If yes, I’d see about removing it from the slide lugs.
You have reduced clearance with Cerracoat build up and I assume it’s harder than the barrel steel.
It looks like minimal wear from what could be a variety of reasons -- loose linkage fit, perhaps rough-finished lug seats in the slide.
If you look very carefully you can see a very fine line between the "O" in .45 AUTO and the leading edge of the ejection port. You have a two-piece barrel -- typically a mass-produced item to make cheaper than a one-piece barrel from a forging.
Not a common failure, but it can happen:
58093
Someone suggested taking about the Shok-Buff, and trying it again. If that doesn't fix it, then maybe having my smitty sand a bit on the inside of the slide, for some necessary clearance. Short any other ideas, will try it w/o the Shok-Buff next week at the range.
Not a fan of shock-buff, but I wouldn't think that is the problem. My initial thought is the lock up is a little too tight and one of the locking lugs is dragging. I haven't spent much time with 1911s for about 8-10years now, so I could be way off base. Additionally, I just went and looked at my one and only custom 1911. built on a late 80s SA, fitted BarSto Marine Corps Match barrel. No idea how many rounds down the pipe, but has a solid lock up and zero rubbing on the barrel.
It looks like minimal wear from what could be a variety of reasons -- loose linkage fit, perhaps rough-finished lug seats in the slide.
If you look very carefully you can see a very fine line between the "O" in .45 AUTO and the leading edge of the ejection port. You have a two-piece barrel -- typically a mass-produced item to make cheaper than a one-piece barrel from a forging.
Not a common failure, but it can happen:
58093
I've seen a number of failure examples... cracked frames, bulged barrels, split barrels, barrel lugs sheared off, but never that one. Kinda interesting to see. Thanks
RVTMaverick
07-22-19, 09:53
I'm wondering why it looks like a piece of blue & white paper is wedged in between the frame/slide and barrel?
DEFINITELY - but is it TOO "much?"
BRAND NEW TRP Operator slide, mated to a(n upgraded - & cerakoted) mil-spec frame. It was WAAAY too tight, first time at the range. Wouldn't cycle, and every shot FTE (10rds. was enough that day!).
My 'smitty lapped the slide a bit, and although it's still tight, the gun fires and cycles perfectly, BUT...
Noticed the top of bbl was rubbing the inside of the slide a bit. I took several shots, from slightly different angles/flash, so hopefully they've done it some justice.
Area in question in particular, is to the right/below the "o" in "Auto"
https://i.ibb.co/48DPvkP/100-5391-crop.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/g4Vp53b/100-5384-crop.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/DYPF7Vy/100-5388-crop.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/bNgyjkk/100-5382-crop.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Y70hPm0/100-5383-crop.jpg
My fingers are old and calloused, but I can't perceptively FEEL any 'roughness' to that area, which of course, means nothing.
What dost the brain trust think? Normal? Acceptable, Troublesome? Or...???
Put 200 rds. of Blazer aluminum through it, for reference. NO FTF's or FTE's, for reference.
RVTMaverick
07-22-19, 11:05
LOL NO SHIIIII..:o. Thanks gaijin... Thought it looked like cardboard or paper... still LOL
Shok buff.
It looks like minimal wear from what could be a variety of reasons -- loose linkage fit, perhaps rough-finished lug seats in the slide.
If you look very carefully you can see a very fine line between the "O" in .45 AUTO and the leading edge of the ejection port. You have a two-piece barrel -- typically a mass-produced item to make cheaper than a one-piece barrel from a forging.
Not a common failure, but it can happen:
58093
JB Weld?
So the friction welding process is not as fool proof as claimed. I feel better now for buying the Colt instead of the SA.
The 2 piece barrel thing has been around a long time.
FN (“Browning”) used them in their Hi-Powers for ever, never heard of issues with theirs coming apart or cratering like S&A.
LOL NO SHIIIII..:o. Thanks gaijin... Thought it looked like cardboard or paper... still LOL
The silver bit (last photo) is the recoil spring guide rod.
There could be a couple of problems. 1911s aren't plug n play so, you have alittle homework. It appears a tolerance stack has been introduced by the new frame barrel bed. Is the barrel the same barrel that came with the slide (that barrel has been fitted to the slide) from the factory? Before firing further range time....
First, check barrel lugs and slide lugs and lightly deburr. I mean no more than .002-3 at a 45°angle. If the interior is cerrokoted or there are obvious high spots on the slide lugs they will need to be knocked down either by lapping or sanding with turned cylinder (can't remember dimension) and wet dry 220/320.
Second, does the slide barrel fully lock up? Does the slide overhang the rear of the frame, is the slide stop tight or loose with the slide all the way foward. Sharpie the barrel lugs, reassemble and see if the slide stop is going all the way back on the lugs. Link too long?
Third, check you barrel/slide clearance and timing with Schuemann's installation instructions and that should give you an idea of where the problem is and if you or your smiff have the knowledge/ability to fix it. This will identify clearances that are nessessary and where the tight spots are. If after reading the instructions and re-reading till you fully comprehend and absorb the test steps, seek out a 1911 smiff who is well versed. If you feel confident in your understanding, it is kinda a tedious fitting session. Basically, you are going to check that the vertical impact stop distance, barrel bed height and barrel to slide clearance once the barrel is resting on the barrel bed.
Generally, production 1911s are no where near the Schumann standard but are loose enough to get by. Once you start start tighten up a 1911eliminating the loose tolerances, timing and clearancing become more critical.
Link to rabbit hole:
https://www.m1911.org/testkit.htma
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.