View Full Version : Dillon 550 owners-
halfmoonclip
09-23-19, 10:40
My 550 is 35+ years old, and has been rebuilt 3 times. It has slowly been upgraded, and Dillon sent me the mechanical, bellcrank powder measure several years ago. It replaced the double springs powering the powder bar.
It didn't run very smoothly; my powder bars are hodge podge going back years, and I leave them set for a particular charge. Some were really binding in the powder measure.
Finally groused to Dillon, and they sent me bunch of current-spec powder bars with the slippery silver coating.
All the difference in the world; bars ran smoothly, and did that little 'bump' at the end of the stroke. I'm guessing that 'bump' is like what we used to do with the tapper on old Lyman powder measures.
In any case, measuring accuracy has improved immensely, and the press runs so much more smoothly.
Don't suffer in silence; talk to Dillon.
Moon
Good to hear they're keeping the customer service level high. I like the double spring powder deal better than the new version for the exact issue you mentioned.
I think there's a thread on Brian Enos' forum about guys retrofitting the older Dillon powder measure, because they liked it better than the new one...
I know it's heresy, but smearing a touch of motor oil on the powder bars made mine run a lot smoother. I know I don't want oil in my powder charge, but we're talking just enough to make it feel a little oil (not dripping!).
They'll also sell you the springs as well.
halfmoonclip
09-24-19, 13:57
Now that I (finally) got the bellcrank system working, I wouldn't go back to the springs.
Too, that slippery surface on new production makes a huge difference, and I'm convinced that there was a change in specs.
Bimmer, know what you're saying about just a dab of lube. I used powdered graphite on the primer shuttle, until, again, the new ones have that slippery silver coating.
Wish I had a nickel for every round that's come out of that 550. I could drink free for months.
Wonder how much of modern, high round count shooting developed from progressive presses, priced for the ordinary shooter?
Moon
I only run the bell crank on pistol ammo, and still have yet to get used to the clunky movement of the system.
halfmoonclip
09-24-19, 14:56
While I have run 5.56 thru' the Dillon, I am mainly a straight-side pistol cartridge reloader.
It's my impression that the two bumps (small one going up, bigger coming down) are meant to slightly agitate the powder.
I mentioned above, the old Lyman measure had a tapper that got two whacks on the upstroke, and two more on the down; I can still hear that 'tap-tap' while filling a loading block.
Moon
joedirt199
09-27-19, 07:02
I gave all the moving parts of my powder measure a good diamond honing and polish. Disconnected that spring end that causes the clunk and added some wife's hair ties to the powder bar to make it run smooth and quiet. I get much more consistent drops and run it dry as the lube seems to grab the little powder sizes and dust and gums up the operation after a while. Also sand and polish the inside of your powder hopper for smoother drops.
Uniquetek has a tips and tricks for improving the dillon powder measure, just download the pdf and enjoy
http://uniquetek.com/free_tips_files
While I have run 5.56 thru' the Dillon, I am mainly a straight-side pistol cartridge reloader.
It's my impression that the two bumps (small one going up, bigger coming down) are meant to slightly agitate the powder.
I mentioned above, the old Lyman measure had a tapper that got two whacks on the upstroke, and two more on the down; I can still hear that 'tap-tap' while filling a loading block.
Moon
Between the bullet seating and the crimp die, I've never found the powder measure to need any jogs to get the flow going.... at least with ball and fine kernal extruded. I did have the measure choke up on 4064, but that stuff is like rice, and meters horribly.
I too had issues and they gave me some of the newer powder bars. I have my newest one I bought last year mounted up on my Dillon 300.
Greg
Thanks for the tip about getting in touch with Dillon. I bought my 550 used, and put out many thousands of rounds with the power measure getting less trustworthy all the time even though it has been on the same setting. More recently I have been confirming the powder measure for every 10th round on an adjacent scale (and that really slows down progress) just to be sure they were ok.
halfmoonclip
10-27-19, 16:59
On my reloading records, one of the things I record are which powder bar is used, and how many turns from zero are required for a certain throweight.
This serves two purposes; it speeds up the process of setting the powder bar, and it provides a failsafe. If 2.5 turns is supposed to give you 4.0 grains of Bullseye, and it only gives you 3.0, something is wrong...the bar setting, the powder scale, the data...
I may well pull the powder tube off my press, and try washing it in dish detergent. I'd sprayed it with anti-static, and it hadn't helped.
BTW, had one of those old Lyman measures, and a tapper with an eraser glued on for the upper end...two taps with the handle up, two with it down.
Moon
On my reloading records, one of the things I record are which powder bar is used, and how many turns from zero are required for a certain throweight.
This serves two purposes; it speeds up the process of setting the powder bar...
One better: I have an extra powder bar for each caliber, which becomes part of the "caliber conversion" when I change calibers.
It's cheaper than having an entire extra powder measure mechanism, and I really hated resetting the powder measure everytime I changed calibers...
halfmoonclip
10-29-19, 19:07
Actually, Bimmer, that is what I do as well; the advice was for those who hadn't stored up a supply of the charge bars. I mark them with permanent marker, and store them as set. We roundel guys are real smart fellers!
BTW, when using the new, crank system for positive charge bar return, it is possible to cut off the post that was originally for the return springs; it makes storage of many bars much easier.
Moon
shadowrider
10-29-19, 19:21
One better: I have an extra powder bar for each caliber, which becomes part of the "caliber conversion" when I change calibers.
It's cheaper than having an entire extra powder measure mechanism, and I really hated resetting the powder measure everytime I changed calibers...
Good idea. I bought an insert for each caliber for my Hornaday LNL AP when I had that. I dumped it long ago and don't why I didn't do this with the 650.
halfmoonclip
10-30-19, 00:30
shadow', too lazy to dig out my catalog. Does the 650 take the same charge bars as the 550? They're not expensive.
Moon
I mark them with permanent marker, and store them as set.
I just leave each powder bar with the tool head and conversion kit that it goes with...
They're not expensive...
They're $20-25 on eBay. Totally worth it to me...
shadowrider
10-30-19, 11:36
shadow', too lazy to dig out my catalog. Does the 650 take the same charge bars as the 550? They're not expensive.
Moon
I'm not certain as I don't have a 550, but I'm pretty sure they use the same powder measure.
I'm not certain as I don't have a 550, but I'm pretty sure they use the same powder measure.
Yes both bars and measures are the same across the board. I run them on 300's, 550 and 650's
Greg
halfmoonclip
10-30-19, 14:23
Bimmer, didn't realize they were that pricey, but I haven't had to buy any outright recently.
Dillon had sent me the new 'failsafe' powder measure, and I contacted them that my old charge bars were binding in the new measure.
I had acquired a number of charge bars over 30 years, and, God bless 'em, Dillon replaced them all. Their customer service is first rate.
But I concur, even if you have to flat out buy them; huge time saver, and it prevents mistakes as well.
Moon
halfmoonclip
10-30-19, 14:24
Bimmer, didn't realize they were that pricey, but I haven't had to buy any outright recently.
Dillon had sent me the new 'failsafe' powder measure, and I contacted them that my old charge bars were binding in the new measure.
I had acquired a number of charge bars over 30 years, and, God bless 'em, Dillon replaced them all. Their customer service is first rate.
But I concur, even if you have to flat out buy them; huge time saver, and it prevents mistakes as well.
Moon
Dillon 550 owner here. Not had much trouble with the powder bar set up. Good info on keeping extra powder bars. It’s the primer feed bar that is a problem for me. After 2-300 rounds, it has to be cleaned thoroughly or it sticks pretty bad. I need to send it back to Dillon and have the press rebuilt and cleaned thoroughly. 8 years, thousands of rounds....
halfmoonclip
12-03-19, 21:18
Deuce', I lube my ram, but sparingly, because it will migrate on to the primer shuttle, and gum things up. I keep the exposed parts of the shuttle wiped down. But I don't have to actually tear down the primer assembly, except perhaps once a year. And a bunch (I mean a bunch )of rounds have been thru' it.
BTW, as regards tearing down the press...are they willing to pay for shipment? They wanted $75 for shipping, and I was too cheap. I've rebuilt it twice already, (had it since '88), so one more time didn't hurt. I usually break the crank.
If you're halfway handy, it really isn't that tough. And it will help you understand the press better.
BTW, is your primer shuttle coated with the gray, teflon-ish material? You can get a new shuttle (both sizes?) from Dilllon.
Let me know.
Moon
Deuce', I lube my ram, but sparingly, because it will migrate on to the primer shuttle, and gum things up. I keep the exposed parts of the shuttle wiped down. But I don't have to actually tear down the primer assembly, except perhaps once a year. And a bunch (I mean a bunch )of rounds have been thru' it.
BTW, as regards tearing down the press...are they willing to pay for shipment? They wanted $75 for shipping, and I was too cheap. I've rebuilt it twice already, (had it since '88), so one more time didn't hurt. I usually break the crank.
If you're halfway handy, it really isn't that tough. And it will help you understand the press better.
BTW, is your primer shuttle coated with the gray, teflon-ish material? You can get a new shuttle (both sizes?) from Dilllon.
Let me know.
Moon
Moon,
I polished the primer shuttle underside with a scotch bright pad and even with a dremel on a low setting. I was told to never lube the primer assembly as bad things can happen. Some people have used graphite lube. I think my large and small primer shuttles are of the old type. I will check when I a home again. I am fairly handy, but if I eff up the disassembly/assembly it would have to go back to Dillon anyway. I may call them to see if I can get shipping paid for.
halfmoonclip
12-03-19, 23:10
You do have the steel insert that sits under the primer shuttle? Yeah, get yourself some new ones.
BTW, a rebuild usually isn't necessary unless you actually break something. Are the big nuts on the outside of the crank tight? If not, that can cause the primer punch to be off center.
Good luck!
Moon
You do have the steel insert that sits under the primer shuttle? Yeah, get yourself some new ones.
BTW, a rebuild usually isn't necessary unless you actually break something. Are the big nuts on the outside of the crank tight? If not, that can cause the primer punch to be off center.
Good luck!
Moon
Yes, I have the steel insert and I try to keep it clean. Ok, it has had probably north of 5000 pistol rounds reloaded through it. Just curious on a round count for when a rebuild should be done.
5000 is nothing. I have WAY more then that done on a 650 and haven’t had to rebuild anything except my wallet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
halfmoonclip
12-06-19, 21:59
You don't really need to rebuild the press unless something breaks. In my case, it was the crank, which simply broke.
Take down the primer mechanism, get new primer shuttles, wipe the ram down thoro'ly and lube it carefully, reassemble.
Is anything else really acting up? The primer shuttle is a PITA.
Don't forget to tighten the nuts on the crank.
Moon
Just curious on a round count for when a rebuild should be done.
I send mine back every 35 years whether it needs it or not.
It’s the primer feed bar that is a problem for me. After 2-300 rounds, it has to be cleaned thoroughly or it sticks pretty bad.
Deuce', I lube my ram, but sparingly...
Me, too. I put a drop or two of 20w-50 under where the primer shuttle goes back and forth.
Mine is smooth as silk after 27 years and tens of thousands of rounds, and I can't remember it ever misfeeding a primer.
5000 is nothing. I have WAY more then that done on a 650 and haven’t had to rebuild anything except my wallet.
You don't really need to rebuild the press unless something breaks...
Amen. I dribble a little 20w-50 over the shiny moving parts and pump some into the holes around the bearings and then wipe it all down, but that's it.
Knock wood, I haven't managed to break mine yet, though I did have a near-miss when I thought I'd lost the little plastic square in the powder measure...
halfmoonclip
12-07-19, 10:19
Bimmer:
First, full sympathy in sharing Munich's revenge. ;)
As regards lube under the primer shuttle, I'd be almighty careful about doing that; oil does have a habit of migrating. I used to put powdered graphite under the shuttle, but now I keep it bone dry with the new shuttle plating.
As regards oiling the ram, after a long loading run, I wipe it down thoro'ly, and then lay a bead of oil around the ram, and let it settle thru' the mechanism. The next day, I'll oil those holes on the crank.
Wish I had a nickle for every round thru' mine.
Moon
First, full sympathy in sharing Munich's revenge. ;)
You mean BMWs? My '74 2002tii was a delight. I miss it...
As regards lube under the primer shuttle, I'd be almighty careful about doing that; oil does have a habit of migrating.
Yeah, but I don't see how it would get from under the slider to the cup where primers ride.
Also, primers are NOT that sensitive to exposure to oil...
After tens of thousands of rounds, I've never had a dud primer. Never.
halfmoonclip
12-08-19, 10:31
Bimmer, the first BMW I ever drove was a '70 2002, while I was at Ft. Ord. Salesman took us for a ride in the mountains, doing four wheel drifts while he talked. Wish I'd bought that one, but a 3-series sportwagon still graces my garage; love the thing. It hauls people, stuff, and ass.
As regards primers and oil contamination, in the dim mists of time when I learned to reload, we were cautioned to not even touch primers, and I'm still uncommon careful about it. Maybe I'm too cautious; mine go from the container to a primer flipper to the pickup tube, without human contact. Those new, coated, primer shuttles (and charge bars) do run smoothly.
Moon
Bimmer, the first BMW I ever drove was a '70 2002... Wish I'd bought that one, but a 3-series sportwagon still graces my garage; love the thing.
I drove a rental E36 wagon over here once, and it was fabulous.
Lately, though, BMW doesn't make anything that gets me excited... My garage is full of Japanese cars.
Those new, coated, primer shuttles (and charge bars) do run smoothly.
My RL550B is from 1996 or so, so I don't think mine are coated!
My 550 is about the same era, thinking 1995 or so. For BMW, I have a 2010 335d. The Dillon has proven to be less expensive to maintain than the 335d... :-(
Customer service from Dillon has been superior too, if you can imagine that...
I still have my 550b VHS tape for setup/instruction. :p Not sure what year I got it... early 90s I think.
halfmoonclip
12-11-19, 17:09
I have had great customer service from both, but then both are still in warranty.... ;)
IIRC, the more recent, silver, coating dates from this century; older parts were either bare alloy, or some sort of dark (teflon?) coating.
The coatings, and perhaps tolerances, have changed over time.
For perspective, my 550 dates from the mid-eighties, and was really beta-testing. The crank had some kind of circlip retainers rather than nuts, and of course the powder bar was returned with springs.
The Dillon has liberated me to do a whole bunch of handgun shooting.
Moon
My 550 is about the same era, thinking 1995 or so. For BMW, I have a 2010 335d. The Dillon has proven to be less expensive to maintain than the 335d... :-(
That's one of the things that soured me on BMWs... My father had a 2001 330i convertible, and it was a beautiful car, but the constant maintenance issues once it was out of warranty really did make it stand for "Bring Money With." I'm a handy DIY, but these were problems that only a dealer or specialist could fix.
I still have my 550b VHS tape for setup/instruction...
Yeah, I remember those, though I didn't buy one...
... of course the powder bar was returned with springs.
Mine, too.
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