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HKGuns
12-20-19, 20:25
For as long as I’ve owned revolvers it has bothered me how hard it was to clean the front of the cylinder.

Last week I ran across something I can only describe as miraculous.

For some reason I had one of the Colgate charcoal tooth brushes on my Gun bench. I used it to clean my stainless .44 and when it came to the front of the cylinder it took the powder burns off better than anything I have used to date.

Try it and see if your results are similar. I was truly shocked at how well it worked.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191221/c50cb3cf20332f96fe49528cab406624.jpg

Ron3
12-22-19, 08:55
I use solvent and a bronze bristle brush. I think it's a 20 ga bore brush I dont use for anything else. I use it on such build up spots.

Works pretty well. Doesn't have to be perfect. Glad you found something that works.

shadowrider
12-29-19, 23:27
Not going to hurt a stainless gun unless it has a coating of some type, but charcoal is pretty damned abrasive. I'd not do that on a blued gun or especially one of the titanium cylinder guns.

I've used a Braun electric TB for years and had never even heard of these brushes until now. I'll be picking some of these up just for my stainless guns to try. Sounds just crazy enough to work!

RadioActivity
12-29-19, 23:57
Have you ever used Kleenbore's de-leading wipe? Pretty much magic on a stainless gun.

HKGuns
12-31-19, 05:11
Have you ever used Kleenbore's de-leading wipe? Pretty much magic on a stainless gun.

Yep they don’t work worth a damn.

Good point about the blued revolvers. I have a blued Aussie police trade in I should test it out on to find out. It is designed for your teeth so I can’t imagine it is too abrasive.

Stainless at least is good to go.

halfmoonclip
01-03-20, 11:20
Some years ago, had an epiphany about burn marks on the cylinder face.
They hurt nothing, and will return when next you shoot the gun.
If preparing for sale, maybe clean it; concur that aggressive cleaning is potentially harmful to blue or nickle finishes
Otherwise, just leave the marks alone.
Moon

anachronism
01-03-20, 20:46
Try Flitz, on an old toothbrush.

T2C
01-04-20, 09:53
Try Flitz, on an old toothbrush.

I've used Flitz or Brasso to remove stubborn lead off the face of the cylinder on a stainless revolver followed by the normal cleaning regimen. I would not do it on a regular basis, but once or twice a year won't hurt anything.

deputyG23
01-25-20, 05:24
Some years ago, had an epiphany about burn marks on the cylinder face.
They hurt nothing, and will return when next you shoot the gun.
If preparing for sale, maybe clean it; concur that aggressive cleaning is potentially harmful to blue or nickle finishes
Otherwise, just leave the marks alone.
Moon
That is my philosophy as well.
Cleaning as soon as you finish shooting while the gun is still warm works surprisingly well.
I use Hoppe’s with a patch or paper towel to wipe all exterior surfaces after running a wet patch through the bore and chambers.
Let the Hoppe’s work there while you attend to the outside.

BillB
02-16-20, 12:50
Have you ever used Kleenbore's de-leading wipe? Pretty much magic on a stainless gun.

Agreed. Magic.

PriseDeFer
05-10-20, 00:24
The gun cleaning mania shows an underlying disconnect with, and fear of, the elements of fire and brimstone that are the physical and spiritual basis of the non-socially subjugated animus of the firearm.

KTR03
05-13-20, 12:12
The gun cleaning mania shows an underlying disconnect with, and fear of, the elements of fire and brimstone that are the physical and spiritual basis of the non-socially subjugated animus of the firearm.

Cool. No idea what it means, but cool.

apb2772
05-09-21, 16:30
https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Purpose-Polishing-Cloth-Pack/dp/B012BJVJ7K

“Miracle Cloth”

They are old as dirt and have been around forever. They work like magic on stainless firearms - especially revolvers with soot staining on the front face of the cylinder.


However D O N O T use them on Blued surfaces as they will be miraculously stripped of their blue oxide luster and be now “In the white”.

tommyrott
10-29-21, 19:59
I have a k frame model 18-2 in stainless, inherited it from my uncle. he shot it exclusively with 38 spc so loading it with 357 is a fun adventure of getting the case's out. would love to remove the build up in the cylinder so I can carry it for field use

glocktogo
10-29-21, 20:22
Some years ago, had an epiphany about burn marks on the cylinder face.
They hurt nothing, and will return when next you shoot the gun.
If preparing for sale, maybe clean it; concur that aggressive cleaning is potentially harmful to blue or nickle finishes
Otherwise, just leave the marks alone.
Moon

When I was shooting Stock Service Revolver and vying for a championship (which I got) I was shooting enough to get cylinder face and forcing cone buildup that would drag. For a run of the mill local match I’d just use a dental tool to scrape it down. For a state, regional or national match I’d do a full clean. Of course I’d also scrub the hell out of the chambers every third stage or so, but that’s what you do when you want to win.

For a full clean I’d use a Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth. It was a pain but it would clean the cylinder face and forcing cone to where it was cleaner than when it came out of the box from the factory.

I have these same charcoal infused toothbrushes, so I’ll have to remember to try them sometime!

glocktogo
10-29-21, 20:41
I have a k frame model 18-2 in stainless, inherited it from my uncle. he shot it exclusively with 38 spc so loading it with 357 is a fun adventure of getting the case's out. would love to remove the build up in the cylinder so I can carry it for field use

That’s easy, they make stainless steel cylinder brushes. Get two or three. Remove the cylinder and crane. from the gun and pull the yoke. Chuck a brush up in a hand drill, hold the cylinder in your hand firmly and spin it up as you work the brush in and out. At first, don’t run them in too far, just to where the end of the bristles are even with the front face of the cylinder. As the brush wears, you can gradually push them deeper so the less fatigued bristles work on the necked down area. The junction where the bullet makes the jump will prematurely wear the brush.

I usually do about 10 seconds on each charge hole, then stop to let the brush and cylinder cool down. Going too long at a time will cause the bristles to break off (and yes you’ll absolutely want to do this outside. You don’t want to find one of these bristles with your bare feet!)

After each round, use a flashlight and closely inspect how much buildup is left. You’ll wear these brushes out fairly quickly but they’re meant to be disposable. I used to order them by the dozen when I was shooting revolvers in competition. And no, I never damaged a cylinder doing this, blued or stainless.

PriseDeFer
03-07-22, 10:41
While often mistaken for Obsessive Compulsive Disorder the gun cleaning and polishing mania is both specific and unique, and illuminates a profound disconnect from, and fear of, the elements of fire and brimstone that are the tangible parts of the non-socially subjugated animus of the firearm.

SteyrAUG
03-07-22, 17:59
While often mistaken for Obsessive Compulsive Disorder the gun cleaning and polishing mania is both specific and unique, and illuminates a profound disconnect from, and fear of, the elements of fire and brimstone that are the tangible parts of the non-socially subjugated animus of the firearm.

Hope you are just trolling for fun.

Rare collectible guns are maintained for all the same reasons rare antiques are taken care of and it has nothing to do with fear of anything.

Work guns and duty gear and cleaned and maintained because people bet their lives on them, again has nothing to do with fear of anything.

Then there is the "I simply take care of the things I own" crowd, has nothing to do with fear of anything.

When I clean the mud off my boots it's not because I fear the Earth.