Battle Zero for LMT BUIS

[fourdegrees]

I hope that this is the right forum and not the Tactics and Training forum.

The question that I have right now is how do I sett a battle zero for the LMT BUIS. I've looked at Lt Col Santose's fine guide on setting a battle zero, and I've also read through a few of the training manuals. I have a few questions based on reading those. First, I can't get the LMT to go past 6/3 at the bottom range of clicks. 6/3 is when the sight bottoms out on the base. I also don't see an allen screw to adjust to correct this according to Lt Col Sontose's instructions. However, there is a "z" marked two clicks up from the 6/3 makring. Should I zero on the "z" and then adjust down two clicks for 300 yards. And, if I do zero on the "z", what range should I be zeroizing at? 25m or 50yd like Lt Col Sontose's guide instructs?

If anyone could point me in the directions of a manual for the LMT BUIS I would appreciate it. I would also appreciate anyone with experience with this sight or others like it giving me a few tips.

[Robb Jensen]

You need an 1/16" allen wrench to adjust the elevation drum so that it bottoms out a 6/3 -4 clicks. Then you can shoot it to establish a zero.

http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/improvedbattlesightzero.msnw

[infidel]

fourdegrees, you need to flip to the small aperture on your rear sight to expose the hole where the allen head is located.

[Failure2Stop]

This is my personal preference as far as the LMT and M4/A4/A2 sights when they are to be relied upon in life-threatening situations-

1- Zero the small aperture to be POA/POI at 300 yards with the rear sight set on 3.
(Most people do not have sufficient range-space to allow a 300 yard/meter zero though, in which case a 36 yard zero will be roughly OK).

2- Flip up 0-2 aperture and confirm POA/POI at 50 yards. It should be pretty close. If possible, confirm at 200 yards. If there is a discrepancy between POA/POI between the two apertures (which is likely) you have two choices based upon your needs-

a. Learn the offset aim-point required to achieve impacts on the intended aim point when the 0-2 is up, leaving the small aperture with a hard zero, ensuring reliable long range performance. This is not my preferred course of action.

b. Adjust sights to achieve POA/POI at 50 or 200 meters or yards with the 0-2 aperture up. This is my preferred course of action as I do not want to have to think about my aim-point at close to mid range (0 to 200 meters), and matches my Aimpoint offsets.

This is simply my preference- there are lots of ways to peel a banana, and lots of things to do with the peeled banana, just make sure that the method supports the desired end-state.

[fourdegrees]

What is the "z" mark for out of curiosity?

[Failure2Stop]

What is the "z" mark for out of curiosity?

US Army 25 meter field-expedient zeroing.

[sevencarpileup]

Slightly related. when you guys got your LMT BUIS did you have to do anything to move the elevation knob? Mine seems like it is frozen in place, I unscrewed the 1/16 nut type thing talked about earlier and it is still stuck. thanks

[spamsammich]

you only move the lower half of the elevation wheel after loosening.

[Molon]

I hope that this is the right forum and not the Tactics and Training forum.

The question that I have right now is how do I sett a battle zero for the LMT BUIS. I've looked at Lt Col Santose's fine guide on setting a battle zero, and I've also read through a few of the training manuals. I have a few questions based on reading those. First, I can't get the LMT to go past 6/3 at the bottom range of clicks. 6/3 is when the sight bottoms out on the base. I also don't see an allen screw to adjust to correct this according to Lt Col Sontose's instructions. However, there is a "z" marked two clicks up from the 6/3 makring. Should I zero on the "z" and then adjust down two clicks for 300 yards. And, if I do zero on the "z", what range should I be zeroizing at? 25m or 50yd like Lt Col Sontose's guide instructs?

If anyone could point me in the directions of a manual for the LMT BUIS I would appreciate it. I would also appreciate anyone with experience with this sight or others like it giving me a few tips.


http://www.box.net/shared/static/z63qc62ne9.jpg




http://www.box.net/shared/static/981d1j23o2.jpg




http://www.box.net/shared/static/rtpbkq6ave.jpg




http://www.box.net/shared/static/rshg575lo4.jpg

[scottryan]

You are not really battle sighting your gun.

Battle sighting is for full size rifles.

Just set it to 3 and zero at 300 yards and be done with it.

Or set it to 3 and zero two inches high at 100 yards. It will give you what you are trying to accomplish without altering the sight's factory settings.

Just leave it at 3 because you won't be using the battle range adjustment on the sight.

Too many people over analyze this issue.

[scottryan]

This is my personal preference as far as the LMT and M4/A4/A2 sights when they are to be relied upon in life-threatening situations-

1- Zero the small aperture to be POA/POI at 300 yards with the rear sight set on 3.
(Most people do not have sufficient range-space to allow a 300 yard/meter zero though, in which case a 36 yard zero will be roughly OK).

2- Flip up 0-2 aperture and confirm POA/POI at 50 yards. It should be pretty close. If possible, confirm at 200 yards. If there is a discrepancy between POA/POI between the two apertures (which is likely) you have two choices based upon your needs-

a. Learn the offset aim-point required to achieve impacts on the intended aim point when the 0-2 is up, leaving the small aperture with a hard zero, ensuring reliable long range performance. This is not my preferred course of action.

b. Adjust sights to achieve POA/POI at 50 or 200 meters or yards with the 0-2 aperture up. This is my preferred course of action as I do not want to have to think about my aim-point at close to mid range (0 to 200 meters), and matches my Aimpoint offsets.

This is simply my preference- there are lots of ways to peel a banana, and lots of things to do with the peeled banana, just make sure that the method supports the desired end-state.


If you have a properly made aperture with a right offset large hole, then your last 3 points might not be a problem.