View Full Version : Help Me Update My Gun
Hey guys, I built this gun quite a few years ago and I’m thinking it might be a little outdated in terms of overall setup. I wanted to get some thoughts on how I could freshen this gun up and bring it more current.
Starting from the rear, it’s a Magpul stock of some kind. I don’t remember which though. The little compartment in the stock is kind of useless to me. I’m ambivalent to the stock. I could be convinced to swap it or I could be talked into leaving it.
On top is the Burris Tac30 1-4x. I would have rather had a PA with the ACSS reticle, but this has done the job and I’m fairly happy with it. The mount is a Burris PEPR which aside from being on the heavy/bulky side, has been a good mount. I could really be talked into going with strictly a red dot only, but I already have 2 other SBRs with red dots so I’d kind of like to stay with the LPVO style optic on this gun.
Grip is the Magpul MOE+ with the rubber texture. I am ambivalent toward it also. Could he talked into keeping it, could be talked into changing it.
Handguard is the biggest thing I want to change. This was before the days of Mlok and KeyMod where you had to attach little rail sections to the handguard if you wanted to attach something, hence why I have nothing mounted on it. I want to swap it with a MLOK handguard for sure. My first question is do I go with 13” and have a little barrel exposed or do I stick with the 15” guard like I already have? I kind of like the look of a 13” handguard with a little barrel out the end.
Then comes attachments. I definitely want to run some kind of hand stop or vertical grip to be used as more of a hand stop. Open to any MLOK suggestions for this. Then I’m thinking I may not need a light since I have lights on my SBRs and this gun isn’t really going to be used for close range situations. I will also be adding a sling once I get the handguard changed out.
Lastly is the flash hider. I’m using a Rock River compensator that I’m also kind of ambivalent toward. I could change it or I could keep it. I don’t have a suppressor so I don’t need any kind of suppressor-ready flash hider and I don’t want something too wild.
I think those are the main areas of the gun I wanted to change. Lower, trigger, upper, BCG, and barrel are all still good to go. Let me know what you all suggest. Thanks!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200123/2a4cbbbdc248cb8e87d45cceedde3833.jpg
I would get a pile of ammo and shoot the rifle until whatever needs to be changed becomes evident. The exception would be the muzzle device. I'd change that for an A2 birdcage or BRT Covert Comp simply because I cant stand brakes. If you want a handstop, one can be added to the handguard you got with a little ingenuity.
I’ve already shot this gun quite a bit. But I’m just a civilian, so I don’t really “run and gun” per se. I’m not exactly sure that anything DOESN’T work. It’s more about how can it work a little better maybe?
The MLOK handguard is my biggest want I think. That and to maybe shave a little weight off the gun.
My opinion only
That stock looks like a ACS-L and that little compartment is handy for extra batteries for the scope, I would keep that.
Not familiar with the scope but unless it has a daylight bright dot I would replace with the PA or even a Steiner P4xi.
I would replace the handguard with a LaRue 13" LAT because IMO that is the best rail for the money right now.
https://www.larue.com/products/larue-lokpicatinny-handguards/
For trigger I would go LaRue MBT for same reason as rail, cost/quality.
https://www.larue.com/products/larue-tactical-mbt-1s-trigger/
For a muzzle device I would go A2 as a minimum.
Then I would add a white light.
grizzlyblake
01-23-20, 10:17
What are the details on upper/lower/lpk/barrel/etc.?
If it were me I'd just sell it and go buy new what you want.
Primary Arms now carries Sionics so I'd just snag an upper, BCH, complete lower, and then a Radian charging handle and be done.
vicious_cb
01-23-20, 10:36
That gun looks brand new...shoot it till it dies. I guarantee you will understand what needs to be changed after that while spending less $$$.
That gun looks brand new...shoot it till it dies. I guarantee you will understand what needs to be changed after that while spending less $$$.
Like I said, it’s been shot quite a bit. Just not running and gunning.
I'm honestly not seeing much that would need to be changed. If you want to lose weight, go ahead and get a 13" MLOK rail and A2 flash suppressor on the end. It won't save much weight, but it will shed a little.
Have you tried the BCM grips? A BCM grip with backstraps might tailor things a bit for you and the fore end/ grips are available as MLOK as well. BCM grips alter the angle and are a little more straight up and down, and the VFG has an agle which rakes forward or rearward depending on how its installed. It might feel great for you, it might not feel much different at all, but its an option.
Honestly the rail you have now is pretty light.
LowSpeed_HighDrag
01-23-20, 12:48
Like I said, it’s been shot quite a bit. Just not running and gunning.
What does that mean?
Anyways, I'd sell the upper and start over, or at least get a BCM MCMR rail:
https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-mcmr-15-m-lok-compatible-modular-rail/
I'd drop that optic and mount combo like it's hot. Pick up a Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 1x-6x:
https://www.eurooptic.com/Vortex-Viper-PST-1-6x24-VMR-2-MOA-PST-1605.aspx
And a LT204 mount in 30mm:
https://www.larue.com/products/lt204/
Ditch that heavy stock and get a new one:
https://www.primaryarms.com/magpul-moe-slim-line-carbine-stock-mil-spec-black-mag347-blk
Get a Dead Air brake:
https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Dead-Air-Armament-Key-Mount-Muzzle-Brake-p/daa-brake.htm
Keep the grip, it's a good one.
Get a BCM stubby vertical grip:
https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcmgunfighter-vertical-grip-mod-3-m-lok-compatible-black/
Buy an mlok sling mount:
https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-rotation-limited-sling-mount-m-lok/
And a VCAS sling w/metal hardware:
https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/vickers-combat-applications-two-point-sling-cnc-aluminum-hardware/
Get two QD swivels:
https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/lmt-heavy-duty-push-button-qd-swivel/
Strongly consider a light if this may end up being a defensive gun:
https://clouddefensive.com/product/lcs-streamlight-hlx-kit/
And light mount:
https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/thorntail-2-m-lok/
If that LPVO is too much, look into PA or Burris:
https://www.primaryarms.com/200472
https://www.primaryarms.com/pa-1-6x24mm-ffp-illuminated-rifle-scope-with-acss-raptor-762-reticle-black
Look no further than the Larue MBT for trigger:
https://www.larue.com/products/larue-tactical-mbt-2s-trigger/
Build this setup and be happy
Blankstrap
01-23-20, 13:03
I'll echo the sentiment that it's fine as-is. Instead, how many ARs do you have? If just the one, I'd take the opportunity to buy new in the set-up of your choosing, make it your primary, and save this one as a proven back-up.
I'll echo the sentiment that it's fine as-is. Instead, how many ARs do you have? If just the one, I'd take the opportunity to buy new in the set-up of your choosing, make it your primary, and save this one as a proven back-up.
I currently have 4 ARs. I have this one, a 20” in an A2 configuration, a 10.5” SBR, and a 7.5” SBR in 300.
monty_d_33
01-23-20, 13:12
I didn’t see a light on that rifle. Any consideration to what type you would like?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I didn’t see a light on that rifle. Any consideration to what type you would like?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Both of my SBRs have lights. Wasn’t sure if I needed one on this rifle.
I would get a pile of ammo and shoot the rifle until whatever needs to be changed becomes evident. The exception would be the muzzle device. I'd change that for an A2 birdcage or BRT Covert Comp simply because I cant stand brakes. If you want a handstop, one can be added to the handguard you got with a little ingenuity.
All of this. Stocks and grips are a personal thing, work that our for yourself. If nothing becomes evident that you need to change through use, then probably nothing needs changing.
However... if you just want to stimulate the firearm accessory industry Centurion Arms just released MLOK C4 handguards. And I won't steer you away from Primary Arms for a value oriented optic. The new FFP SLX 1-8X RAPTOR is gonna be worth the money over the 1-6x only a 1oz penalty too. But yeah, get rid of that brake. Everyone hates you for it.
Will do. I’ve got an A2 hider someone in my parts box.
Hey guys, I built this gun quite a few years ago and I’m thinking it might be a little outdated in terms of overall setup. I wanted to get some thoughts on how I could freshen this gun up and bring it more current.
I think those are the main areas of the gun I wanted to change. Lower, trigger, upper, BCG, and barrel are all still good to go. Let me know what you all suggest. Thanks!
OP - notice how reading comprehension isn't a requirement for this forum. :jester::jester:
Seriously, these are some questions I have:
What kind of shooting do you do with this rifle, is it usually prone, or off a bench of some sort? The reason I ask is because for me anyways, I prefer a more vertical grip on the rifles I shoot standing, kneeling, and from barricades. Those rifles all have B5 Type 23 grips on them. Otherwise I use standardish angle grips.
Likewise with the stock it is pretty much the type of shooting you do, the way you mount the rifle, and your build. The ACS stock on your rifle has wide 'shoulders, and if that is the style you want, you could go with the Magpul MOE SL which is more sleek and would save you 4.5 oz of weight:
https://magpul.com/firearm-accessories/stocks/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10/moe-sl-carbine-stock-mil-spec.html?mp_global_color=118
The MOE SL also has QD attachment points for slings, which may or may not be an enhancement in your eyes. The butt pad configuration, particularly the rolled/angled toe also suits me well.
Otherwise for a similar mount/cheekwell profile, these are my other favs:
TI-7 STock - (probably my favorite stock) https://ar15sport.com/product/colt-ti-7-stock-fits-mil-spec-tubes-arpart-clt-ti/
B5 Bravo: https://www.b5systems.com/products/bravo-stock
As I said though, there are a lot of considerations in choosing a stock, as you can see from my first two examples, wide shoulders and angled/rolled toes, as well as either QD sockets, or a vertical sling slot are important selection criteria to me.
As far as your rail goes, your 15 inch tube offers plenty of length to stretch out, add accessories, and also doesn't leave much barrel exposed. This is the profile I prefer for several reasons. I actually have a nearly identical MI tube to which I'm particularly partial. I have mounted a QD socket cup to the end of the rail by using the end most screw hole, you could do the same on any of the screw hole locations so long as the gas block doesn't interfere. As far as a VFG goes, your profile looks identical to mine, except mine is a 13 inch rail on a 13.7 upper, flip your rifle over and make sure the 6 o'clock slots aren't keymod, mine are.
If you want to get a new rail, the LaRue and the ALG Defense offerings are the best bang for the buck as far as I'm concerned.
Hope this helps.
ETA - looking at your picture this is what I'd do:
1) TI-7 stock (Magpul MOE SL second choice)
2) B5 Type 23 grip
3) Ambi-safety (not listed but one of my requirements for anything I own)
3) QD socket attached to rail (use screw holes)
4) MagPul VFG - Keymod if your tube is like mine, if not get an MLOK, use the first attachment hole to screw into the screw hole on the rail and the back MLOK to span the slot - that is what I had to do to get the placement I wanted on mine, even though it has Keymod slots at the bottom, solid as a rock.
Hammer_Man
01-23-20, 17:15
If you don't plan to mount a light or anything to the handguard, why change it out?
LowSpeed_HighDrag
01-23-20, 18:19
If you don't plan to mount a light or anything to the handguard, why change it out?
Agreed. If there is nothing getting attached but a grip, then buy a rail panel and save some money for the optic.
I agree with others to leave as is. Of course, I never change any of my ARs once built. I keep them the same FOR EVER. If I want something different, then I build it.
Starting from the rear, it’s a Magpul stock of some kind. I don’t remember which though. The little compartment in the stock is kind of useless to me. I’m ambivalent to the stock. I could be convinced to swap it or I could be talked into leaving it.
As mentioned above the stock is a Magpul ACS-L, which is the Lightweight version of the ACS (regular ACS has battery storage tubes running down both sides, -L does not). I have one. It's a fine stock. Not overly heavy, nice cheek weld, the friction thing (Magpul seems to have moved to internal leaf springs now but the friction lock thing works fine), and the little storage compartment to me is useful. I like to put a couple foam earplugs, a little vial of oil, sometimes light/optic battery (like 1-2 CR123), hell I'll even put a couple cartridges of ammo in there because why not? Use the right number of foam ear plugs and you can have no rattling around and still have useful earplugs should the need arise.
Stocks are a pretty personal choice as also stated above though and there are tons of choices out there.
It sounds like this is not a duty or professional use rifle or even a home defense or patriot use rifle, just another in your stable that you take to the range sometimes, so as said if you only want a handstop or grip on the rail that's easy enough to do no need to spend money on a rail, or a light. Now if you want it to be go-toable for social work or whatever else, I'd upgrade that optic and mount a light and some sling attachment points and probably do a new m-lok rail as part of that. 13", 15", other ", whatever floats your boat
If I were you I would buy a Geisselle rail and a Arisaka finger stop. And buy a Arisake light mount. And be done.
PB
There is absolutely nothing wrong with that, especially detachable rail panels. Spend the $ on ammo and quality training.
I think you would really be impressed if you could upgrade your carbine and shave some weight in the process.
Try and aero precision 12” mlok
Atlas s one and an aero precision ultra light scope mount,then add a magpul ctr stock.
Whatever you do,weigh it before and after your modifications,lighter perceived weight is going to be your biggest appreciable difference,in my experience
Try a primary arms cyclops love mine,and very lightweight!!!
everready73
01-23-20, 20:19
There is nothing you have to change especially if the gun isn't your primary. I am assuming the sbr's are as they have lights.
If you did want to change some things up
Trigger- larue mbt2
Muzzle device- forward controls design 6315. I don't like brakes like you currently have. This is nice ss it is basically a flash hider/comp without any extra blast. More expensive than a flash hider though
Rail- the larue and Centurion rails are really nice. I standardized on mlock for compatibility
You could keep the scope or upgrade. The Burris rt6 is nice if you want more mag and don't want to break the bank. I honestly don't like the mount you have, I would def upgrade that to a American defense, Midwest, or larue
Wow guys, lots of great suggestions and information here. Thanks! Tonight I was able to swap about the Rock River comp to a regular old A2.
As for the rail, I was hoping to switch to MLOK for the ability to add the VFG or handstop and also to be able to put a QD socket on the side that I can move around to different points to see which position I like better. I know I can add the little extra rail sections, but that adds a little more weight and I also think the MLOK attachments look a little cleaner than the rail style attachment accessories.
Most of my shooting is from the bench with the second most common being offhand. I don't have access to a range where I can shoot prone or use barricades.
The stock I might look into changing over to the MOE SL, but I will do some looking around first. I'm not unhappy with what I have, just didn't know if there were better options. Having the ability to attach a QD socket or having an integrated QD socket would be nice though. I have the MOE SL K stock on both of my SBRs and I have QD socket attachments on both of those. I haven't looked at the regular SL version though.
LowSpeed_HighDrag
01-23-20, 20:54
Wow guys, lots of great suggestions and information here. Thanks! Tonight I was able to swap about the Rock River comp to a regular old A2.
As for the rail, I was hoping to switch to MLOK for the ability to add the VFG or handstop and also to be able to put a QD socket on the side that I can move around to different points to see which position I like better. I know I can add the little extra rail sections, but that adds a little more weight and I also think the MLOK attachments look a little cleaner than the rail style attachment accessories.
Most of my shooting is from the bench with the second most common being offhand. I don't have access to a range where I can shoot prone or use barricades.
The stock I might look into changing over to the MOE SL, but I will do some looking around first. I'm not unhappy with what I have, just didn't know if there were better options. Having the ability to attach a QD socket or having an integrated QD socket would be nice though. I have the MOE SL K stock on both of my SBRs and I have QD socket attachments on both of those. I haven't looked at the regular SL version though.
Geissele or BCM for rails, depending on budget. Pull the trigger one of those before someone talks you into an inferior rail system!
LowSpeed_HighDrag
01-23-20, 20:55
https://geissele.com/super-modular-rail-mk16-m-lokr.html
https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-mcmr-15-m-lok-compatible-modular-rail/
I’m going to say that 26 Inf probably gave you the best suggestions. And he actually read your whole post.
Were I to add anything... I dunno, I’ve come to really like the Magpul K2 grip and the SL-S stock. That said, what you have is fine, but both those pieces of furniture would feel a little different from what you have.
OK, I guess one suggestion would be a suppressor, unless that is too wild...
Other than that, it really comes back to how much you want to spend and your goal. If you wanted to try something new, maybe a 1-6x optic? Like a Vortex PST 1-6x maybe? I found that though much heavier, it is nicer than the PST 1-4x.
The stock I might look into changing over to the MOE SL, but I will do some looking around first. I'm not unhappy with what I have, just didn't know if there were better options.
The stock you have, again, is fine. I have the ACS-L and the MOE SL. I just bought a new stock for another rifle this week...I went with an MOE SL-S and preliminary I like it the most of three but it doesn't matter much, and if I was to replace one of the older ones...I'd drop the SL and get another SL-S. Why? The SL has the least cheek weld among the three and is the only one without storage. I figure an empty storage area doesn't really add weight, but if I want to put a few little things in it (as mentioned above), I can. The MOE SL is perfectly fine but I prefer the cheek weld of the SL-S or the ACS-L.
Don't change things for the sake of change. If it works (well) and you aren't unhappy with it and aren't even sure what you'd rather have instead, just buy ammo
I shouldn't be posting because I've been home sick all week and doped to the gills on Mormon Whiskey (Nyquil) but what the hell.
The rifle hasn't been shot enough to know if anything at all should be changed. How do I know that? Because I'd bet dollars to donuts that the AR being discussed is packed with off brand springs- especially the extractor spring. Olympus, you haven't asked once what to do about "double feeds". That tells me the AR hasn't yet been shot enough for the generic extractor spring to start failing, which normally happens between 500 and 1500 rounds. (By the way, a failing extractor won't cause real double feeds. That's the magazine's job. Extractor spring failures manifest themselves as a "bolt over base" type of failure to feed.)
Furniture choices are like undergarments. Everyone has their favorites, but that doesn't make them better choices and you won't know how they fit until you try them on. What's comfortable for my wife is... ah... Ahem...
Getting back go the subject at hand- Olympus, don't start changing things just because you're worried about your AR being out of date. You wouldn't start wearing your wife's silk thongs and brassiere just because some guy on the internet said they were so soft and smooth and the latest hotness, would you? There's nothing wrong with the configuration of your AR (especially now that you've installed an A2 because some guy on the internet told you to). What you can do, is make changes will improve reliability. Changing out your furniture won't do that.
I don't know what brand AR you have, but my guess is that it isn't a Colt. ARs by other makers often use generic springs as a cost cutting measure. Those generic brand springs just don't last as long as Colt springs. Or Sprinco springs. The spring that's the worst offender is the extractor spring. A generic extractor spring usually starts giving out around 500 rounds (some give out almost right away) and rarely make it to 1500. So, do yourself a favor and install a Colt M4 extractor spring in your bolt. Or an enhanced spring from Sprinco. No donut!
Next, replace your carbine weight buffer with an H2. The carbine weight buffer is simply too light, even if your AR is gassed correctly. I'd also suggest replacing the action spring with a Sprinco blue. Or a quality carbine spring. Maybe your action spring hasn't collapsed enough to need replacing, but it's cheap insurance. Next, replace the hammer spring. Again, it probably isn't giving you any trouble yet, but if you're gonna start with fresh springs, might as well start with a fresh hammer spring. It wouldn't hurt to also replace the trigger spring while you're in there.
Since you have the trigger group out, go ahead and clean & dry it. Then add some grease to all the sears before reinstalling it. Before all that, there's something you can do to make your trigger smoother, but you gotta be careful. Separate the upper from the lower. Cock the hammer, then pinch the hammer between your forefinger and thumb. Lift up against the sear a little bit and press the trigger until it releases. Don't let go of the hammer! Do this a few times and it will smooth out the sear surfaces and improve the feel of your trigger. Don't pull up on the hammer too hard or you might chip the edges of the sears.
Beyond that, my advice is- Ammo Before Accessories. Shoot Before Modifying. But that might be the Nyquil talking.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.