View Full Version : *Resolved* Wilson Combat Extractor Fitment/Tuning Issues
*Resolved*
Hello, I have ittle experience with 1911's but recently got back into them with a SA RO Elite Operator in 9mm. I have not shot it yet, but the stock extractor seemd to fit very well and apply appropriate tension. Even so, I bought a Wilson Combat BulletProof extractor (9mm/38 super size, of course) for a little added peace of mind and to use the stock extractor as a spare.
Well, no matter how much bend I applied, I couldn't get it to put really any tension on a case. It's quite a pain to remove and install the extractor at this point, and I'm no closer to achieving tension. The firing pin stop fits the extractor channel well. But, It's almost as if the extractor is too long? The claw sticks beyond the case rim, and the rear sticks out beyond the slide.
I don't currently have pictures of the stock extractor, but will take pictures tonight. Thoughts on the gap pictured and the overhanging material in the rear?
https://i.imgur.com/gYOtpPS.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/HrVcWha.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/bFMDXtz.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/UUMo2dW.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/fJatYjD.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/i31PQwr.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/1iDpGB3.jpg?1
It ain't about bending, but fitting.
There are few, if any, "drop in parts" in a 1911.
Look at this diagram. The shaded area determines depth of claw in relation to case. (I have always called it the "doughnut".)
Remove material here.
Think about how the 1911 functions; the extractor doesn't SNAP over the case- the slide pops the cartridge out of magazine as it goes into battery, sliding the case rim under, and into, the extractor claw.
You can't have any sharp edges at these contact points- as MOST extractors come from manufacturer.
https://i.imgur.com/YUklcKP.gif
Properly radius/polish and undercut the extractor claw. Leaving a sharp, 90 degree "corner" will bite into case: web/rim and will never work properly.
THEN worry about "bending"/tensioning it.
Frequently the extractor tip, or nose needs to be shortened as well. Common for a new extractor to be so long it will contact the barrel when going into battery.
Understanding the relationship, or interrelationship, between parts is a big deal in having a 1911 that functions flawlessly.
You can't be simply throwing parts together with any expectation that everything will work.
Get a mentor. Go to a 1911 gunsmith class.
Something.
Was it resolved by following the advice from gaijin?
Essentially, but the information came from another forum.
Good, thanks! (TOS) no worries
Essentially, but the information came from another forum.
Good, thanks! (TOS) no worries
I learned a ton in a few short hours, was up until 2am with a file, and now appear to have everything fit properly and passing standard checks. Range will be the tell all, coming soon :cool:
I learned a ton in a few short hours, was up until 2am with a file, and now appear to have everything fit properly and passing standard checks. Range will be the tell all, coming soon :cool:
Haha-like a kid at Christmas! Hope it works out.
Excellent.
Let us know how it functions.
Excellent.
Let us know how it functions.
Will do!
Another question I have is after applying tension, it made this ledge or shelf on the breech face more apparent. This is why under tension the cartridge appears to be lifted off the breech face. Is this a problem?
https://i.imgur.com/NlboLps.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/COYvpET.jpg?1
Your photos appear to show; slag, or crap milling job which wasn’t cleaned up in breechface, which you have circled in Red.
I’d dress that down/clean it up so you lose that kick up of cartridge off the breechface.
Also see a sliver of extractor body showing proud above breechface, which is also holding case head off of breechface.
It’s nearly microscopic though.
I would also dress this down to flush/just past flush.
Wager it will function fine in spite of this, but it isn’t “right”.
Your photos appear to show; slag, or crap milling job which wasn’t cleaned up in breechface, which you have circled in Red.
I’d dress that down/clean it up so you lose that kick up of cartridge off the breechface.
Also see a sliver of extractor body showing proud above breechface, which is also holding case head off of breechface.
It’s nearly microscopic though.
I would also dress this down to flush/just past flush.
Wager it will function fine in spite of this, but it isn’t “right”.
Thanks for the advice. I actually filed down the extractor body you mentioned this morning to correct that, but I didn't take a new picture. Is the breech face something you would just carefully go at with a file?
I would, yes.
Machinists/ needle files; triangle and whatever they call the flat one with no cutting surface on edges.
May need to finish with a stone.
Go slow, use magnification-jewelers google or similar.
I would, yes.
Machinists/ needle files; triangle and whatever they call the flat one with no cutting surface on edges.
May need to finish with a stone.
Go slow, use magnification-jewelers google or similar.
Got it, thanks again!
Took some precision files and a very small and sharp chisel (as a scraper) to it. Maybe not perfect, but much better.
Before:
https://i.imgur.com/COYvpET.jpg?1
After:
https://i.imgur.com/mobSbPe.jpg?1
Looks good.
What was that apparent “glob” seen in top photo?
Looks good.
What was that apparent “glob” seen in top photo?
Thank you. Just a metal ridge left behind from milling. My research shows it's from the "J" cut. I'm not sure what that means, but apparently that's what it is and isn't too terribly uncommon but isn't correct.
Sort of what I thought.
Follow up report on live fire function please.
Sort of what I thought.
Follow up report on live fire function please.
Absolutely. I'm thinking Tuesday I'll go put about 500rds through it.
First range trip posted here: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?220534-SA-RO-Elite-Operator-9mm-First-600rds&p=2809479#post2809479
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