View Full Version : Looking for stick on pad or cover for my metal folding stock
https://i.ibb.co/KqV1sD4/20200422-114706.jpg (https://ibb.co/BZT16GW)
https://i.ibb.co/jWPX0kX/20200422-114644.jpg (https://ibb.co/txTrjpr)
https://i.ibb.co/9ymfMpj/20200419-131022.jpg (https://ibb.co/j39xp8F)
https://i.ibb.co/b7n6q6c/20200419-130933.jpg (https://ibb.co/cxdyMy4)
I have a ZM Weapons LR300 with metal folding/retracting stock. It's very cold when it's cold out, and very hot when it's hot out.
Does anyone know of a sticky backed material that I can stick to the upper portion of the stock so that I don't have to put my cheek on bare metal?
Some of the ideas I had are loop Velcro, mole skin (do they make it in black?) Or something else. The thinner the better.
I used to have the wire folding stock and wrapped it in 550 cord, but this one doesn't allow for that.
Thanks for the ideas!
What about the sticky multicam / OCP uniform patches
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jackblack73
04-22-20, 11:29
I would probably secure some kind of material with the string going through those holes. Maybe you could modify a suppressor cover. I’d probably just sew something up.
Hoptic USA and CDS both sell adhesive backed stock pads. I'm sure there are more options that I can't think of at the moment.
Hoptic ('saddle blankets"): https://www.hopticusa.com/store?page=4
CDS pads: https://www.convergentdesignsolutions.com/store/c16/Cheek_Pads.html
Weibad also makes a fabric stock pad for the precision rifle crowd. There are nearly 40 models for different stocks, so you can probably find a variant that would fit your LR300.
https://wiebad.com/mini-stock-pad/
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Cheek-Pad-Various-Thickness-Available/dp/B01F2Q7FGI
I don't have any experience with your buttstock, but it looks like you probably only want a thin wrap -- no padding. Padding on the side or top may interfere with folding the stock, as well as raising your eye above the level of your compact ACOG or irons.
Also, I don't have any experience with this product, but you might want to look at this:
https://triadtactical.com/rifle-forend-wrap/
It is relatively thin, and the medium and large sizes use laces (as well as?) velcro backing. I don't know the exact dimensions of you buttstock, so it is difficult to speculate whether the small or medium might be a better fit. I like the idea of velcro/hook and loop because it is temporary and replaceable, while adhesive backing on most stock pads is not.
Finally, their suggestion about making a template is a pretty good idea for you, since you may be either creating or adapting something to fit your needs. It may also help you to determine if you want any padding, where it should be, and how think it could be and still function. Modeling the product needed usually helps, at least for me.
Do you recall how the original Colt CAR-15 stocks had a "vinyl-actetate" coating?
https://idfcarbine.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/essential-arms-aluminum-car-stock.jpg
https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/f58bedb4-ae5a-44e3-9f64-2403bddcf545/svn/black-matte-plasti-dip-rubberized-coatings-11203-6-64_1000.jpg
I’m assuming serious about the Plasti-Dip...
I can vouch that properly and generously applied, plasti-dip can still be brutal to remove after protecting a wheel’s gloss coat for 3-4 salty winters. I’m doubting most do not use their rifle close to what daily driver wheels go through.
But, I’m not sure how well it would protect from cold. I’m thinking how steel toed shoes become quite chilly while working outside in the winter. A thicker barrier as some others have suggested may be more effective if this is a real problem for you.
61893
Maybe wrap one's face instead.
Just brainstorming.
As option; check Brownells for stik on shotgun stock pads.
HardToHandle
04-22-20, 18:39
I would suggest adhesive backed Chinesium synthetic suede. Just enough insulation to reduce temperature discomfort but still very thin. Seen it used to wrap kydex holsters and vehicle dashes.
Brooks A Grip is the upscale US version. I put this on all my Glocks. Works great in sweaty summer and great in winter, for non slip with gloves. Brownells seems to be backordered. https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/grip-parts/grips/semi-auto-agrip-prod1582.aspx?psize=96
Lots of great ideas here. The 1/16” foam pads seem like that would be perfect, I'll have to cut a custom size, which shouldn't be hard. I'll make a template with paper, and go from there.
The Brooks A Grip option looks promising as well.
As far as Velcro or lace on options, both would not work due to thickness and impressing the retractability of the stock.
I think that these adhesive foam/leatherish options are likely to be the right path.
militarymoron
04-22-20, 22:13
What about forming a thin piece of kydex to fold over the top and then form it with a heat gun so it's snug? Not sure whether it'll work, but that's what came to mind. Foam just gets gross with sweat, oil and skin from your cheek over time.
What about forming a thin piece of kydex to fold over the top and then form it with a heat gun so it's snug? Not sure whether it'll work, but that's what came to mind. Foam just gets gross with sweat, oil and skin from your cheek over time.I do a lot of custom Kydex solutions (Gear and stuff around the house) and think this would work well. You could get it snug with careful design and forming where it looks OEM.
You could even get it to snap on/off depending on how much coverage would be OK.
Dennis
I do a lot of custom Kydex solutions (Gear and stuff around the house) and think this would work well. You could get it snug with careful design and forming where it looks OEM.
You could even get it to snap on/off depending on how much coverage would be OK.
Dennis
This sounds like a great idea... But I don't know the first thing about doing that
I have to ask (not to sidetrack your thread): does that ZM run cleaner than a regular DI AR?
WeepingAngel
04-23-20, 09:13
Lots of great ideas here. The 1/16” foam pads seem like that would be perfect, I'll have to cut a custom size, which shouldn't be hard. I'll make a template with paper, and go from there.
The Brooks A Grip option looks promising as well.
As far as Velcro or lace on options, both would not work due to thickness and impressing the retractability of the stock.
I think that these adhesive foam/leatherish options are likely to be the right path.
My go-to for building up a stock is thin closed cell foam (similar to this (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pratt-Retail-Specialties-3-32-in-x-12-in-x-50-ft-Premium-Foam-Cushion-20020010/202530553)), held to the stock with vet wrap (https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Adherent-Adhering-Cohesive-Horse/dp/B07MP7XG5D). Note that most vet wrap is 4" wide, you may want to go down to 2" to get it through that sling passthrough. It's not permanent, but is self adhering and reasonably durable. If you don't like it, need to adjust something, etc, it's a pretty flexible solution to getting the stock so you like it.
This sounds like a great idea... But I don't know the first thing about doing thatAll you would need for this job would be some kydex, a cheap heat gun from Harbor Freight, a utility knife, sandpaper, and some heat resistant gloves. Well that and YouTube!
https://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/materials-kydex-c-546_54.html
https://triangletactical.net/2012/05/13/diy-the-ins-and-outs-of-working-with-kydex/
I do think it would be the most durable and OEM looking solution. It just depends on how much you feel like playing arts and crafts [emoji847]
Dennis.
I have to ask (not to sidetrack your thread): does that ZM run cleaner than a regular DI AR?
Yes it does, the bolt has much less carbon buildup. Unfortunately, I still get lots of noxious gas in my eyes when I shoot suppressed, and this rifle is louder than my 11.5 Colt 6933 with a suppressor. But it's still great to shoot, and easy to carry.
All you would need for this job would be some kydex, a cheap heat gun from Harbor Freight, a utility knife, sandpaper, and some heat resistant gloves. Well that and YouTube!
https://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/materials-kydex-c-546_54.html
https://triangletactical.net/2012/05/13/diy-the-ins-and-outs-of-working-with-kydex/
I do think it would be the most durable and OEM looking solution. It just depends on how much you feel like playing arts and crafts [emoji847]
Dennis.
Good info. The sheet that I need it like 2.5"x5.5" or so, I'm working on the template now. I could either get some and practice, or maybe send the stock out and get some assistance. But that's good thinking for sure.
P2Vaircrewman
04-23-20, 10:29
Seems if minimum thickness and protection from cold is desired the easiest would be the fuzzy (loop) stick on velcro.
Good info. The sheet that I need it like 2.5"x5.5" or so, I'm working on the template now. I could either get some and practice, or maybe send the stock out and get some assistance. But that's good thinking for sure.
The best part of Kydex is that you can reheat and reform it over and over and even form it a part at a time with judicious heat management. I would start by bending an edge over a form to create a sharp corner to hook into the "J" of the stock frame then you can form it bit by bit over the top and use the stock holes to bolt it in place.
Or even extend it all the way over and cut it so it clicks into the first available edge/hole to allow easy removal. Sorta like this: https://www.keltecweapons.com/product/ksg-kydex-cheek-rest/
If you get a sheet of Kydex you will find many more uses for it!
Dennis.
The best part of Kydex is that you can reheat and reform it over and over and even form it a part at a time with judicious heat management. I would start by bending an edge over a form to create a sharp corner to hook into the "J" of the stock frame then you can form it bit by bit over the top and use the stock holes to bolt it in place.
Or even extend it all the way over and cut it so it clicks into the first available edge/hole to allow easy removal. Sorta like this: https://www.keltecweapons.com/product/ksg-kydex-cheek-rest/
If you get a sheet of Kydex you will find many more uses for it!
Dennis.
That's a great idea. I should be able to figure it out I think. I just need one sheet of probably the .060 stuff. I don't have a heat gun, but I could use my wife's hair dryer or just buy one. My biggest concern would be that I wouldn't want to make it shiny, is there a good way to avoid that?
That's a great idea. I should be able to figure it out I think. I just need one sheet of probably the .060 stuff. I don't have a heat gun, but I could use my wife's hair dryer or just buy one. My biggest concern would be that I wouldn't want to make it shiny, is there a good way to avoid that?
The .06 is a little thin, I would go a bit thicker to .08 or .093 or even order a couple sheets to make shipping worthwhile.
You really need a heat gun, they are $23 at Home Depot and likely less at Harbor Freight. You will need to do some tight bends so more heat is better.
Kydex has a smooth side and a pebbly side. You probably want pebbly side out and to avoid shininess you can only apply heat to the smooth side. Shininess comes from applying too much heat to one location. You apply heat while constantly waving the heat gun around the exact location you want to form. Never point the heat gun in one place without movement and remember heat flows UP. My heat gun on high takes around a slow 20 count to make .08/.09 Kydex fully pliable.
Watch some videos. You can always trim and finish Kydex after forming.
Dennis.
The .06 is a little thin, I would go a bit thicker to .08 or .093 or even order a couple sheets to make shipping worthwhile.
You really need a heat gun, they are $23 at Home Depot and likely less at Harbor Freight. You will need to do some tight bends so more heat is better.
Kydex has a smooth side and a pebbly side. You probably want pebbly side out and to avoid shininess you can only apply heat to the smooth side. Shininess comes from applying too much heat to one location. You apply heat while constantly waving the heat gun around the exact location you want to form. Never point the heat gun in one place without movement and remember heat flows UP. My heat gun on high takes around a slow 20 count to make .08/.09 Kydex fully pliable.
Watch some videos. You can always trim and finish Kydex after forming.
Dennis.
Ok great, I'll try a couple sizes and go from there.
Thanks for the tip. Now to find someone who will ship a small amount of kydex... I called the company linked above, waiting on their reply
Bodhisattva05X
04-24-20, 11:24
Man, a Zitta rifle. Haven’t seen one of them in a long time. Used to hate the way they looked. Now, if love you have one.
ViniVidivici
04-24-20, 13:42
I would say a chunk of neoprene, like a piece of a pair of waders, or mouse pad, shoo-gooed onto that stock might work, or zip tied.
militarymoron
04-24-20, 20:27
Ok great, I'll try a couple sizes and go from there.
Thanks for the tip. Now to find someone who will ship a small amount of kydex... I called the company linked above, waiting on their reply
I bought a couple of sheets on Amazon a couple of years ago for a small project: https://www.amazon.com/Plastics-2000-KYDEX-Sheet-0-080/dp/B077S5N6TP
Once you play around with making stuff out of kydex, you'll start making all sorts of other stuff. A heat gun is cheap and worthit. I'm a kydex dummy and made these pocket inserts out of kydex for carrying fixed blade knives upright in my pocket:
https://i.imgur.com/AC3eReO.jpg
I'm not sure how much this will insulate your cheek from the cold or heat but Talon Grips sells sheets of their textured material, it should stay securely and the rubberized version might not be rough on your face.
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I ran some ideas through my head and just thought about perhaps using a doubled old GI shirt sleeve or trouser leg with straps or ties.
If you can sew or know someone, whatever material, eyelets and shock cord would be a good option
I am waiting for my kydex order to arrive, and when it does I will try my hand at creating a cheek rest out of that. It should snap into place and stay put if I make the indentations correctly. I will post pictures here when I do it.
My backup plan to that is either the sticky backed fo am or that Brooks grip material stuff. Talon grip material is possible as well.
I should note that I cannot tie anything through the holes in the stock because that would prevent it from extending and retracting. But if I mold the kydex correctly, I should be able to push it into the holes so that it snaps into place, but does not affect the retractability.
After multiple attempts, it is decided that molding Kydex in this shape is not possible by hand.
I'm going to buy either the foam or the Brooks pad and be done with it.
Kydex does not work for things like this.
After multiple attempts, it is decided that molding Kydex in this shape is not possible by hand.
I'm going to buy either the foam or the Brooks pad and be done with it.
Kydex does not work for things like this.I'm sorry I got you started into something that wasn't so easy...
You can mold it a bit at a time with some judicious application of heat and tinfoil to mask off areas you don't want to heat.
Also to get a tight fight to be able to "snap" it in you mold the basic "U" shape then remove it from the stock and heat the inside middle of the U until it contracts a bit, then you hold the Kydex in that shape a minute until it cools. That way it will be tighter than the U and snap on.
Heat resistant gloves are invaluable for this and a good reason to get some[emoji6]
If you prefer, you can send me the stock and I will make you a cheekrest or two just for fun.
Sorry and Good Luck!
Dennis.
I drew up a rough sketch of one Kydex idea. The secret is to let the Kydex cool between steps and only heat the section you want to work on. Always keep the heat gun moving.
You can always selectively keep reheating and forming specific areas to adjust fit. A block of wood can help mold flat areas as well.
My U advice above to create a tight fit could be used on the final lower bend around the bottom of the stock.
Good Luck and my offer to do it for you still stands!
Dennis.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200509/126c269e6fae6456d6f3bce3e9201e14.jpg
I drew up a rough sketch of one Kydex idea. The secret is to let the Kydex cool between steps and only heat the section you want to work on. Always keep the heat gun moving.
You can always selectively keep reheating and forming specific areas to adjust fit. A block of wood can help mold flat areas as well.
My U advice above to create a tight fit could be used on the final lower bend around the bottom of the stock.
Good Luck and my offer to do it for you still stands!
Dennis.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200509/126c269e6fae6456d6f3bce3e9201e14.jpg
This is almost exactly what I was trying to do, but I just don't seem to have the skill, plus didn't mask anything off, didn't really think of that.
I was so fed up with it after trying today that I called Brooks grips and ordered a sheet that I can cut.
You seem much more capable at this, and that's a very nice offer to help. I may take you up on that, I just want to see how this Brooks stuff works out. I'll let you know.
https://i.ibb.co/zJLFD79/20200517-124647.jpg (https://ibb.co/Wtd0jP8)
https://i.ibb.co/cYWnWtL/20200517-124633.jpg (https://ibb.co/QDWwWnd)
I'm not really a fan of this. Weird texture gets kind of gross with crumbs and stretches. It's not bad stuff and I can definitely see the usefulness of it, but for this I think kydex would be great.
I'm going to send you a message about options on that.
Old thread but this was my solution. I think it was a cheek pad for a FN FAL.
https://ibb.co/jfSpnMT
https://ibb.co/BzQk22t
https://ibb.co/Cb279DZ
Edit trying to embed dang pics
https://i.ibb.co/Gpqhz20/54-B6-C768-EB0-D-459-F-87-BF-1-A55-B2-F4579-C.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Tv7yMMk/293186-E2-E680-4-ED2-AA52-FAD76-CD63054.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/qN5sgVf/6-A24-B5-DB-0-C18-4-CA0-81-F5-E0-EAEABF649-E.jpg
I've used this product with success.
https://ratgrips.com/
Edit trying to embed dang pics
https://i.ibb.co/Gpqhz20/54-B6-C768-EB0-D-459-F-87-BF-1-A55-B2-F4579-C.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Tv7yMMk/293186-E2-E680-4-ED2-AA52-FAD76-CD63054.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/qN5sgVf/6-A24-B5-DB-0-C18-4-CA0-81-F5-E0-EAEABF649-E.jpg
Thanks for posting those pictures. I found the cheek rest:
https://www.dsarms.com/p-11700-itc-cheekrest-customizable-padded-rest-for-tubular-style-stocks.aspx
I'm interested to try that out.
I just sent you a message about trying to find some LR300 parts, specifically a charging handle.
PM replied:
I had added a few things. The comp attaches with a push and twist over the Phantom flash hider.
https://i.ibb.co/zmDmqKc/4-A8-F23-A8-3475-4163-94-BF-C986628-F8591.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/19XzxdB/A203-F9-BA-C47-F-49-AA-9-A3-C-731-CC7-F70677.jpg
I’m having a heck of a time using PMs. Im just going to post the Phase 5 endplate we were talking about. It just clears. You will need to use a different castle nut because the original is too thin. The endplate encapsulates the nut so any current one will work.
https://i.postimg.cc/HkzzT0FN/F8-D9-B011-2-A3-C-4720-9-CC6-3-F79-C1-F9-C90-B.jpg (https://postimg.cc/87FMHvpd)
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