View Full Version : Acog with red dot on top, how to zero red dot?
The idea is to lean the rifle to your weak eye and the red dot comes into view. Great in theory but what if your room clearing and switch the rifle to your weak side and now when you rotate the rifle the red dot is angled the opposite direction. So your poi is going to be off to the side. So I was thinking when I rotate the rifle to my weak eye I'm only rotating it a few degrees so I decided to zero the red dot straight up and down. The issue now is nothing is simple I have to make sure I compensate for being off one way or the other plus height over bor. I haven't shot this setup yet so I'm just thinking in my own head.
Im wondering how others with this setup work it. It's not the ultimate setup for me because I need the red dot to be the dominate optic and the 4x secondary. In this setup the red dot is secondary.
First post here, I got the boot from that other ar forum unfortunately so I'm learning to navigate this one.
ExplorinInTheWoods
05-26-20, 21:56
My experience is with 45 degree offset rmr’s but honestly I would just zero it straight up and down. Instead of trying to figure whatever can’t you think you’ll be at. It will be easier to adjust and zero it that way. If you’re running a piggy backed rmr like that rolling it shouldn’t make a difference in room distances. I would just be more focused on your height over bore and learning that. It doesn’t even need to be your non dominant eye, with the piggy back rmr you can be at what would almost be a depressed muzzle with a normal optic but be able to sue the rmr. With that set up it’s just going to be a lot of practice getting used to an optic that high and secondly getting range time for rmr.
These kind of follow my thoughts aswell. Keep it simple, honestly if I chin weld the stock the rmr is right in my sight line. But if I mess that up I find myself searching for the dot. It's actually easier and faster to roll the rifle into my none dominant eye. I'm pretty good at the bindob concept but not as fast as with just a red dot. I should just be building a second rifle. I want a close to medium range erudite with a max range of 400 yards. I might try an lpvo out.
I think you’re overthinking it. Its a valid setup. Z it straight up and down. I’d do it at 50. Do a bazillion dry reps bringing the optic to your eye. Practice dealing with the ~3” of offset at close range when training live. If it still doesn’t work for you sell it on the EE.
I do it all at 100, but otherwise I just bipod the rifle with the primary optic on target at 100 then sync the RMR with that POA.
Then I confirm it via live fire. I have an RMR on top of a NF 2.5-10x24 and hit steel out to 350 with it.
Up close the offset is noticeable but I just aim for the top of the chest or head to get what I am looking for.
RMR 25yds. Max. Long ranger use 4x acog.
Red Dot is for CQB Only Right eye.
For folks who've tried both, is there any strong reason to prefer offset vs top mounted RDS? I've only tried offset, but considering top mount on a new DMR-ish setup where I have a Badger C1 mount, they have a ring cap where I can mount my T1 on top (they also have an offset option).
I've run both and the one on top didn't bother me as much as many folks dislike. But I'd zero at 25 yards and know your POI at 5-10-15-20-25 yards because the offset is substantial. And not try to use at any further distances, CQB only. My chin weld worked fine for me.
People like offset so they can maintain cheek weld and not have the big space between optics causing POI challenges.
PB
know your POI at 5-10-15-20-25 yards because the offset is substantial.
That sounds like a pain right there...and a good enough reason in itself to prefer offset, or a true 1x LPVO.
That sounds like a pain right there...and a good enough reason in itself to prefer offset, or a true 1x LPVO.
It’s not really that big a deal. Can be done with less than a mag in 30 minutes. But if your going to run it, you should do it. It doesn’t have to be perfect science, just baseline understanding what you got. In CQB your not into ultra precision, but should know your going to hit A few inches low in a bedroom. YMMV
PB
Here is a trick - take your zeroed primary optic and center it on a target while bipoded and bagged so it doesn't move. Usually at 100 yards.
Then move the dot to the same target POA as the primary.
Yes holdovers will be different up close, but by doing it at 100, you take away a large part of that variable. Then you can zero it with ammunition very, very quickly.
Maybe I am stupid but why do you need sights at all in the room clearing scenario?
I have been working with this setup since 2003, ACOG with a reflex piggybacked. I zero the Reflex sight at 50 meters. I only use the reflex sight for anything 50 meters or less. Otherwise I use the ACOG. It si a simple system, and It works very well.
Maybe I am stupid but why do you need sights at all in the room clearing scenario?
Really? Wrong forum bro.
vicious_cb
09-01-20, 19:43
Really? Wrong forum bro.
If you are aiming your glock sideways you might be on the wrong site.
Maybe I am stupid but why do you need sights at all in the room clearing scenario?
Not stupid. Its a common thought. But its also common for people to miss altogether at spitting distance. I advocate use of aiming devices on every shot, no matter how close. Account for those rounds.
But its also common for people to miss altogether at spitting distance. I advocate use of aiming devices on every shot, no matter how close. Account for those rounds.
I just don't understand the thought process of "I won't need to aim in this situation", because that situation can come and go very quickly.
Yes, one may shoot faster / with less than optimal sight picture / alignment / what have you in specific situations but to be like "Baaah, I don't need sights up close" is a recipe for lots of misses.
Can't remember where I heard it, but if you don't have time to aim, then you don't have time to miss.
I just don't understand the thought process of "I won't need to aim in this situation", because that situation can come and go very quickly.
Yes, one may shoot faster / with less than optimal sight picture / alignment / what have you in specific situations but to be like "Baaah, I don't need sights up close" is a recipe for lots of misses.
I have nothing against aiming if you have the time I just think you should be familiar enough with your rifle to make hits across a room by pointing and not aiming.
Leaveammoforme
09-02-20, 14:58
Really? Wrong forum bro.
If you are aiming your glock sideways you might be on the wrong site.
I'm super right eye dominant. Left eye vision is two times worse than the right. I have to gangster roll a pistol, or rifle, when shooting weak side if I want an actual sight picture. People think I'm being silly and goofing when I do it. Guess I will pack my bags. :)
Sight alignment is just one method of aiming. Obviously the most exact when distance begins to stretch out. Shooting "over the top" of a rifle, "front post only" on a pistol or the old pointer finger parallel to the barrel are effective at snap shot distances.
vicious_cb
09-02-20, 15:36
I have nothing against aiming if you have the time I just think you should be familiar enough with your rifle to make hits across a room by pointing and not aiming.
Theres a huge difference between flash sight picture or indexing with just your front sight or tip of your barrel and not aiming.
I'm super right eye dominant. Left eye vision is two times worse than the right. I have to gangster roll a pistol, or rifle, when shooting weak side if I want an actual sight picture. People think I'm being silly and goofing when I do it. Guess I will pack my bags. :)
I also do a 60-45 degree cant when I shoot weak side one handed. You are still getting a sight picture, Im talking about going full retard.
I have nothing against aiming if you have the time I just think you should be familiar enough with your rifle to make hits across a room by pointing and not aiming.
And if you are used to aiming you'll be able to do that without much / any thought.
Late to the party, but I thought I would add my two cents.
I used to mount RMRs on top of ACOGs (TA11 and TA33). Zero using my dominant right eye and a chin weld, but rotate to my weak left eye for use. It worked OK. My PoI shifted down and to the left (if using compass directions, say 225 to 230 degrees) by between 1 and 2 inches at 50 yards, which I deem very acceptable.
I have since switched to offset RMR mounts (Arisaka, at 35 degrees), which are much handier in every way. But, I might prefer the RMR on top of a TA33 if I am trying to trim ounces off total rifle weight.
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