View Full Version : Nightforce NX8 1-8 Scope
davidjinks
07-29-20, 11:24
I signed up for Nightforce’s Mil/LE program. I was able to order my NXS 1-8x24 with capped turrets. I got it in 2 days ago. Now just waiting on the A496 mount from Nightforce.
So far, I’m liking the scope. Slight fish eye but I haven’t gotten to adjust the diopter properly. Nuclear bright illumination. Solid clicks, throw lever is an awesome touch with smooth transition from 1-8. This is my first FFP scope so I’ll need some time to adjust.
Again, the scope isn’t mounted yet so this is not a fair assessment, but the eye box is very tight. I’ll report more as soon as I get it mounted and to the range.
Sorry about the pics, can’t figure out uploading them form the site here.
63956
Do you prioritize 1x performance over higher magnification?
Does it matter to you if the reticle is mostly dependent on illumination to be used rapidly?
Does weight matter?
Both are durable and daylight bright.
davidjinks
07-29-20, 12:58
70-30 for 1X versus 6/8X
It does not matter in regards to illumination dependence. Ideally I would want a reticle that can be used with and without illumination, especially when a light is used.
Not a real concern on weight. I’d be comfortable with 25-28 oz. with mount.
Do you prioritize 1x performance over higher magnification?
Does it matter to you if the reticle is mostly dependent on illumination to be used rapidly?
Does weight matter?
Both are durable and daylight bright.
titsonritz
07-29-20, 13:09
The footprint of the NF NX8 is awesome.
70-30 for 1X versus 6/8X
It does not matter in regards to illumination dependence. Ideally I would want a reticle that can be used with and without illumination, especially when a light is used.
Not a real concern on weight. I’d be comfortable with 25-28 oz. with mount.
Both are very usable on 1X, though the Razor has that "heads up display" field of view and narrow outer ring that the NX8 can't match. It's pretty amazing honestly, even after all these years. Some folks don't care, though, and find the NX8 faster regardless because the reticle draws your eye a little more naturally to the center, especially without illumination. The size and weight of the NX8 are pretty impressive. Eyebox is a little tight at 8x.
I don't think you can go wrong with either; however, with your stated preferences, I think you'd appreciate the Razor more.
WickedWillis
07-29-20, 13:41
Tagged. Saving for one of these two.
titsonritz
07-29-20, 13:54
Both of these optics were on the table when I was shopping but I ultimately went with a Kahles K16i and after using them all believe I made the right choice for me.
PracticalRifleman
07-29-20, 14:11
I’d go Razor 1-6x. If I was considering the NF I’d skip that and jump all the way to the Vortex 1-10x.
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Walker_Texasranger
07-29-20, 14:45
I was debating between the two as well. Really like the size and reticle of the NX8.
I ordered the Razor Gen II because the reports of the eye box, eye relief, and other issues with the NX8 scared me. Maybe overblown but seems to be the consensus on the internets.
I should have the Razor on Friday with the mount and I’ll play around with it and see what I think. If I hate it for some reason then it’ll get returned or sold and I’ll give the NX8 a try.
I’d go Razor 1-6x. If I was considering the NF I’d skip that and jump all the way to the Vortex 1-10x.
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Not a bad plan, just not obtainable for god only knows how long.
davidjinks
07-29-20, 15:54
I was just looking at a Vortex 1-10 MRAD.
My only real concern with Vortex is the quality and durability. I can deal with eye relief/box and illumination. I get that it’s a LPVO and not an RDS. I would rather spend the coin on a known “good” rather than a “maybe”. That’s not a knock on Vortex, I don’t have experience with them, but I’ve also read some not positive reviews of them in regards quality and/or crapping the bed.
I’d go Razor 1-6x. If I was considering the NF I’d skip that and jump all the way to the Vortex 1-10x.
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davidjinks
07-29-20, 15:59
I’ve read the same. I’m not going into this expecting true 1x and eye relief like a T2. I understand the limitations/pros/cons of the system. I used a NF 1-4 for a long time and loved it. It got sent in to NF to have the reticle updated to a MOA crosshairs reticle. That thing was awesome! Sadly, I sold it off chasing the latest and greatest.
I was debating between the two as well. Really like the size and reticle of the NX8.
I ordered the Razor Gen II because the reports of the eye box, eye relief, and other issues with the NX8 scared me. Maybe overblown but seems to be the consensus on the internets.
I should have the Razor on Friday with the mount and I’ll play around with it and see what I think. If I hate it for some reason then it’ll get returned or sold and I’ll give the NX8 a try.
Walker_Texasranger
07-29-20, 16:06
Sounds like you want the NX8 so go with that.
As far as Vortex durability, they are being used with guys overseas with great success so not sure what else you want. Yea, NF has a better reputation for quality I suppose but still...
I was just looking at a Vortex 1-10 MRAD.
My only real concern with Vortex is the quality and durability. I can deal with eye relief/box and illumination. I get that it’s a LPVO and not an RDS. I would rather spend the coin on a known “good” rather than a “maybe”. That’s not a knock on Vortex, I don’t have experience with them, but I’ve also read some not positive reviews of them in regards quality and/or crapping the bed.
The main issue that has cropped up from time to time with the Razor 1-6 is reticle canting/delamination. This shouldn’t be a thing with the 1-10 (which is unobtanium right now) since it’s etched instead of wire. That said, I wouldn’t (and haven’t) let it stop me from running the 1-6. It’s widely regarded as a very durable optic; there are just a metric ton of them out there, meaning the chances of finding that one that’s got an issue are higher.
I own a PST Gen 2 1-6x24. Still have it. Been on AR-15s, AR-10s, and is now on a SCAR 17, well just because they said it can take it.
I bought a Razor-E 1-6x24. It was nice but not twice as nice as the PST. I was underwhelmed, so I returned it to get the NF.
Bought the NX8 and worked it over for a year. Still liked it so I bought another.
It's really personal preference in many regards that have already been brought up in this thread. The biggest is if you must have the 'I just throw the scope in front of my face and see the reticle' need or not. Because the Razor is the winner. The NX8 isn't remotely hard to get behind, but like many other scopes in the field, it isn't a Razor and it's not as simple to get behind. That can be an adjustment if you are coming from a RDS or Razor.
PracticalRifleman
07-29-20, 17:26
I was just looking at a Vortex 1-10 MRAD.
My only real concern with Vortex is the quality and durability. I can deal with eye relief/box and illumination. I get that it’s a LPVO and not an RDS. I would rather spend the coin on a known “good” rather than a “maybe”. That’s not a knock on Vortex, I don’t have experience with them, but I’ve also read some not positive reviews of them in regards quality and/or crapping the bed.
The Razor series is built like a tank.
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davidjinks
07-29-20, 18:26
Delamination! That’s the phrase that kept coming up.
With that being said, the Gen II HD/HD-E and Gen III all have etched reticles correct? So the delamination issue shouldn’t affect these, right?
The main issue that has cropped up from time to time with the Razor 1-6 is reticle canting/delamination. This shouldn’t be a thing with the 1-10 (which is unobtanium right now) since it’s etched instead of wire. That said, I wouldn’t (and haven’t) let it stop me from running the 1-6. It’s widely regarded as a very durable optic; there are just a metric ton of them out there, meaning the chances of finding that one that’s got an issue are higher.
I had a Razor but replaced it with the NX8. The glass, dot and field of vie in the razor are awesome, but the weight threw the balance off on my carbine. The NX8 is significantly lighter and smaller . On 1x it reminds me of an aimpoint micro with a big dot. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying it’s anywhere as forgiving as a micro, but I shoot with both eyes open so it is similar field of view wise. The NX8 has super smooth controls and I really like the reticle. I have it on my 14.5” Noveske. It’s perfect for a 16” or small gun IMHO.
I’ll boil it down pretty simply. If you actually train with your gear, then the NX8 eyebox is a non-issue. Yes, the Razor/PST looks nicer and has a better eyebox, but I’ve run drills head to head and there was virtually no difference between the two.
If what I said above doesn’t scare you away from the NX8, then you also get (IMO) a more durable scope (at least in track record by each company) in a much smaller/lighter platform...with the benefit of a reticle that is very easy to pick up without illumination (better than the Vortex). IMO, it doesn’t get much better for a 5.56 platform.
CubeWarrior
07-29-20, 22:31
I’m 51 and farsighted, so I use scopes everywhere to correct my vision while I shoot.
I use the NX8. Eye box only really tightens past 6x. It did take a lot of practice to get around it. Scope is a joy to shoot at 4x. I do notice the fisheye effect more when I am panning at 1x and focusing through the reticle. Fisheye and parallax are noticeable at indoor distances. With both eyes open, I don’t notice much of it except inside. Reticle is just heavy enough at 1x for me to use fast. At 8x past 400y, it starts to obscure a lot more—still fine for man sized silhouettes. I really like the reticle on my 14.5. NF kills it with the red dot. The next part is hard to describe, but the fixed parallax is more of an issue for me with the NX8 between 50 and 100y—the scope seems finicky on resolution in that range. Low weight and small size are a huge plus.
Friend of mine had the Razor 1-6, and I struggled to use the very fine crosshairs at all on the 1-6. Checked the new 1-10x at a gun shop and had the same issue at 1x. Eye boxes are easier across similar magnification ranges. Both scopes kill the NX8 on clarity, but the NX8 is more than good enough to 600y and beyond. I didn’t want to mess with my friend’s focus, but I don’t think focusing would have made using the Vortexes any easier for me. Honestly, my son’s Strike Eagle is easier for me to use at 1x than the other two scopes.
I’d only trade the NX8 for a 1-6/8x with a great dot, adjustable parallax, tree reticle, and similar form factor.
Delamination! That’s the phrase that kept coming up.
With that being said, the Gen II HD/HD-E and Gen III all have etched reticles correct? So the delamination issue shouldn’t affect these, right?
I believe all the Razor 1-6s (regardless of generation) have wire reticles and only the Gen III 1-10 is etched. I could be wrong.
Furbyballer
07-30-20, 07:21
I have the opportunity to shoot and train a lot. Over this period of time since I started testing LPVOs I have broken nearly every single second focal plane LPVO ive used, tested and evaluated (NF NXS 1-4 is g2g). This list includes Vortex 1-6 generations (Loss of zero, wire reticle failure), kahles sm1 1-6 (erector failure), swaro 1-6 brti (erector failure), old USO 1-4 and 1-8 with their DFP dot tech (FFP etched reticles were good, dot broke every time in SFP), steiner p4xi (wire reticle failure), steiner t5xi (erector failure), sig tango (erector failure), strike eagle (moisture failure), PST 1-6 (electronics failure). I have also never broken a highend FFP LPVO. The list of FFP LPVOs that I recommend in order is the NF Atacar 1-8, NF NX8 1-8, and leupold mk6 as they have proven to be the most durable, repeatable, and quality choices on the market right now with a proven track record. I have over 5k rounds so far on a vortex 1-10 but its just too soon to add that to my list of recommended LPVOs at this time, but man is it pretty sweet. Basically it comes down to this, I always recommend high quality FFP LPVOs over SFP LPVOs due to etched reticles and more robust turrets and erectors. I will always trade a little eybox performance for more reliability, especially if that reliability also gains me weight savings and size savings in regards to the nx8.
PracticalRifleman
07-30-20, 08:38
I’m 51 and farsighted, so I use scopes everywhere to correct my vision while I shoot.
I use the NX8. Eye box only really tightens past 6x. It did take a lot of practice to get around it. Scope is a joy to shoot at 4x. I do notice the fisheye effect more when I am panning at 1x and focusing through the reticle. Fisheye and parallax are noticeable at indoor distances. With both eyes open, I don’t notice much of it except inside. Reticle is just heavy enough at 1x for me to use fast. At 8x past 400y, it starts to obscure a lot more—still fine for man sized silhouettes. I really like the reticle on my 14.5. NF kills it with the red dot. The next part is hard to describe, but the fixed parallax is more of an issue for me with the NX8 between 50 and 100y—the scope seems finicky on resolution in that range. Low weight and small size are a huge plus.
Friend of mine had the Razor 1-6, and I struggled to use the very fine crosshairs at all on the 1-6. Checked the new 1-10x at a gun shop and had the same issue at 1x. Eye boxes are easier across similar magnification ranges. Both scopes kill the NX8 on clarity, but the NX8 is more than good enough to 600y and beyond. I didn’t want to mess with my friend’s focus, but I don’t think focusing would have made using the Vortexes any easier for me. Honestly, my son’s Strike Eagle is easier for me to use at 1x than the other two scopes.
I’d only trade the NX8 for a 1-6/8x with a great dot, adjustable parallax, tree reticle, and similar form factor.
If you didn’t focus the eyepiece it really isn’t a good representation. Typically, the Vortex Razor 1-6x is one of the easiest reticles to use.
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Walker_Texasranger
07-31-20, 17:37
Got a razor Gen II in. I’m used to red dots so will take some adjustment. FOV is great. Clarity seems pretty good. Eye box is good and it’s easy to bring up quick and pick the dot up. Objects on the edges are real blurry. Not sure if that’s normal.
Wish I could compare it to an NX8. Only other thing is I could t decide on the mount height. Got a 1.57 mount and it seems fine but I could see how a 1.93 would be nice too.
Got a razor Gen II in. I’m used to red dots so will take some adjustment. FOV is great. Clarity seems pretty good. Eye box is good and it’s easy to bring up quick and pick the dot up. Objects on the edges are real blurry. Not sure if that’s normal.
Wish I could compare it to an NX8. Only other thing is I could t decide on the mount height. Got a 1.57 mount and it seems fine but I could see how a 1.93 would be nice too.
Are you sure you have the diopter adjusted correctly? It can have a huge impact on the flatness and clarity of the image.
Walker_Texasranger
08-01-20, 06:32
Are you sure you have the diopter adjusted correctly? It can have a huge impact on the flatness and clarity of the image.
Right. I don’t think I do. I’ve heard different methods on how to do that correctly. What’s the right way? Vortex says aim at a wall and adjust until the reticle is in focus. Then on the opposite end I’ve heard people say to zoom to 6x and adjust until the image is in focus. And then everything in between.
I drink NF Koolaid but also know Vortex has a great kit and both have great warranties. I went with NF, but either will tickle your fancy once it's on your gun IMHO.
PB
PracticalRifleman
08-01-20, 11:21
Right. I don’t think I do. I’ve heard different methods on how to do that correctly. What’s the right way? Vortex says aim at a wall and adjust until the reticle is in focus. Then on the opposite end I’ve heard people say to zoom to 6x and adjust until the image is in focus. And then everything in between.
A blank wall or the sky. But you should never stare at the reticle. Close your yes, open, is it clear instantly? No...Then adjust and repeat until instantly clear. Your eye will attempt to accommodate if you look at it for more than a few seconds and it can fatigue your eyes.
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Right. I don’t think I do. I’ve heard different methods on how to do that correctly. What’s the right way? Vortex says aim at a wall and adjust until the reticle is in focus. Then on the opposite end I’ve heard people say to zoom to 6x and adjust until the image is in focus. And then everything in between.
For a LPVO with 1x as the bottom end, the way I do it is set the diopter so that I get as “flat” or true 1x of an image as possible when looking at different objects at 10ish yards away. I like to look at a fence line and get the top edge of it to line up going through the FOV. With my NX8, that also gave me a pretty clear picture & reticle, but you can probably tweak it from there slightly if it looks a little blurry to you.
ETA: not staring at the reticle is also an important point as mentioned above. Once I get a true 1x, I’ll tweak it if need be and get a quick sight picture to gauge the reticle clarity. This is all done on 1x btw. You can also try going to the top end mag and double checking reticle clarity there, but IMO 1x sight picture is more important with these scopes.
Walker_Texasranger
08-01-20, 15:56
Ok cool. Thanks guys. I put the Vortex on my mk18 for giggles and it’s actually awesome lol. I think I’m going to leave it. I have a ln Eotech EXPS on the way that I don’t know what I’m going to do with now.
davidjinks
08-01-20, 16:33
Lots of great information here everyone, thank you!
davidjinks
08-01-20, 16:35
As others have said, set the scope on 1X, 10-15 yard bright object, focus diopter ring. And to echo what has been said, do not stare at the reticle for long periods while doing this. Confirm clarity/crispness on max power and make small adjustments from there.
Right. I don’t think I do. I’ve heard different methods on how to do that correctly. What’s the right way? Vortex says aim at a wall and adjust until the reticle is in focus. Then on the opposite end I’ve heard people say to zoom to 6x and adjust until the image is in focus. And then everything in between.
I was debating between the two as well. Really like the size and reticle of the NX8.
I ordered the Razor Gen II because the reports of the eye box, eye relief, and other issues with the NX8 scared me. Maybe overblown but seems to be the consensus on the internets.
I should have the Razor on Friday with the mount and I’ll play around with it and see what I think. If I hate it for some reason then it’ll get returned or sold and I’ll give the NX8 a try.
Hey man...think you could respond to my PMs on your BCM rifle?
davidjinks
10-07-20, 18:44
Bump with an update in the OP
Slight fish eye but I haven’t gotten to adjust the diopter properly.
Proper diopter adjustment will fix this. I (and some others) find the NX-8 adjustment critical (and kind of touchy) but once you get it right on and locked it, you will see the slight fisheye go away.
I actually mark my NX-8s with a paint sharpie so at a glance I can be sure the diopter is still set to my preference.
davidjinks
10-08-20, 10:40
As soon as my mount comes in, I will get it set correctly.
Did you find it better to go out to complete blur then work your way in?
Proper diopter adjustment will fix this. I (and some others) find the NX-8 adjustment critical (and kind of touchy) but once you get it right on and locked it, you will see the slight fisheye go away.
I actually mark my NX-8s with a paint sharpie so at a glance I can be sure the diopter is still set to my preference.
With a 1x optic, I focus less on the reticle focus initially and more on the whole 'view' at 1x / I.e. fisheye / etc or lack thereof.
So both eyes open, initially static (not moving the optic) with objects from 20-40 feet, then panning around to see the difference as the optic view takes over and then again as objects leave the scope FOV and back into the other eye. I've found with the NX-8, the reticle is in focus throughout this range for my eye - but there still be plenty of adjustment to getting a really good overall 1x image and as you narrow it down, very little movement can make it better or worse in the case of the NX-8.
Compared to the Razor II / PST II 1-6s, the NX-8 is more finicky to getting a good 1x with the diopter and a little movement on the ring can have a larger effect. So if you don't get the ring locked, you can find it 'not as good at the range' because it moved a bit. But once you get it nailed down & locked in, it's very good.
grizzlyblake
10-08-20, 13:19
I’m looking at the NX8 also. It’ll be going on my only one do everything AR, a 16” BCM ELW.
I was thinking of a T2 with magnifier but the NX8 seems much more versatile.
Hunting, property defense, civil unrest, etc. I live in a rural area in NW GA and in winter there is plenty of wide open visibility through the leafless trees.
Would the NX8 be appropriate for this?
I only have $1200 in the rifle and $200 for Troy BUIS so $2k for an optic sounds a little lopsided. Maybe not?
I only have $1200 in the rifle and $200 for Troy BUIS so $2k for an optic sounds a little lopsided. Maybe not?
Its all in what you want. I don't think it's overkill, but it depends on you and your situation. I would love a NX8 on my new ADM AR-10. I think a 1-8 would be perfect for a 16" barrel 308, but I also live in Wisconsin, where due to hills and trees, anything longer then 500yds is quite a ways for me. If I lived out west, it might be different.
davidjinks
10-08-20, 14:40
Comparing this to my 2.5-10 and 1-4 NF scopes, this 1-8 is definitely more “Finicky”.
I’ll get more time on it when my mount gets here.
I would also like to suggest, anyone who is active/retired military or law enforcement, reach out to NF for their MIL/LE program. They are great people to deal with! It’s a shameless plug for NF as I get nothing in return for it.
With a 1x optic, I focus less on the reticle focus initially and more on the whole 'view' at 1x / I.e. fisheye / etc or lack thereof.
So both eyes open, initially static (not moving the optic) with objects from 20-40 feet, then panning around to see the difference as the optic view takes over and then again as objects leave the scope FOV and back into the other eye. I've found with the NX-8, the reticle is in focus throughout this range for my eye - but there still be plenty of adjustment to getting a really good overall 1x image and as you narrow it down, very little movement can make it better or worse in the case of the NX-8.
Compared to the Razor II / PST II 1-6s, the NX-8 is more finicky to getting a good 1x with the diopter and a little movement on the ring can have a larger effect. So if you don't get the ring locked, you can find it 'not as good at the range' because it moved a bit. But once you get it nailed down & locked in, it's very good.
I would also like to suggest, anyone who is active/retired military or law enforcement, reach out to NF for their MIL/LE program. They are great people to deal with!+1000 here.
grizzlyblake
10-08-20, 14:59
Its all in what you want. I don't think it's overkill, but it depends on you and your situation. I would love a NX8 on my new ADM AR-10. I think a 1-8 would be perfect for a 16" barrel 308, but I also live in Wisconsin, where due to hills and trees, anything longer then 500yds is quite a ways for me. If I lived out west, it might be different.
Around here it’s probably 200yd max in most areas. Although my desire is target ID, not long range steel.
90% of why I’m looking at the NX8 is form factor and weight.
morpheus562
10-08-20, 18:14
Comparing this to my 2.5-10 and 1-4 NF scopes, this 1-8 is definitely more “Finicky”.
I’ll get more time on it when my mount gets here.
I would also like to suggest, anyone who is active/retired military or law enforcement, reach out to NF for their MIL/LE program. They are great people to deal with! It’s a shameless plug for NF as I get nothing in return for it.
I'm also part of the program; however, the NX8 1-8 with capped elevation was restricted to only active mil/leo. Has that changed to be open to veterans now or is it still restricted? Having a non capped elevation turret was the only thing keeping me from buying the NX8 and getting a Razor 1-6 instead.
davidjinks
10-09-20, 18:01
I assume there has been a change because I was authorized to order one.
I'm also part of the program; however, the NX8 1-8 with capped elevation was restricted to only active mil/leo. Has that changed to be open to veterans now or is it still restricted? Having a non capped elevation turret was the only thing keeping me from buying the NX8 and getting a Razor 1-6 instead.
I assume there has been a change because I was authorized to order one.
Capped version is available to civilian now?
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davidjinks
10-21-20, 08:19
I didn’t say that; capped version is available through their mil/LE program.
Capped version is available to civilian now?
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Has anyone yet had a chance to compare/contrast the Nightforce NX8 1-8 to the Vortex Razor HD Gen III 1-10? Thanks.
Has anyone yet had a chance to compare/contrast the Nightforce NX8 1-8 to the Vortex Razor HD Gen III 1-10? Thanks.
Entirely different class of optic. ATACR 1x8 would be a more relevant comparison to the Vortex 1x10 IMO.
morpheus562
10-22-20, 09:31
Entirely different class of optic. ATACR 1x8 would be a more relevant comparison to the Vortex 1x10 IMO.
True that they are different classes; however, if I was going to spend ATACR money I'd just get another Razor 1-10. I am interested in picking up an NX8 due to its lightweight, short profile, lower cost, and being ffp. I don't expect it to be a direct competitor to the Razor 1-10, but it would be nice to see the comparison.
True that they are different classes; however, if I was going to spend ATACR money I'd just get another Razor 1-10. I am interested in picking up an NX8 due to its lightweight, short profile, lower cost, and being ffp. I don't expect it to be a direct competitor to the Razor 1-10, but it would be nice to see the comparison.
That's what I'd be interested in seeing, for the same reasons.
For small footprint, durability and over-all quality, the NX8 1x8 can't be beat. It has a very usable reticle with or without illumination, but a tighter eye-box and will be darker than the Vortex scopes. I sold my C598, but have a C599 on order, so I'm a believer. Use a zero MOA mount. My only wish wound be .1 mil adjustments but that isn't happening...
For small footprint, durability and over-all quality, the NX8 1x8 can't be beat. It has a very usable reticle with or without illumination, but a tighter eye-box and will be darker than the Vortex scopes. I sold my C598, but have a C599 on order, so I'm a believer. Use a zero MOA mount. My only wish wound be .1 mil adjustments but that isn't happening...
Yes, I believe that point has been expressed, I'm looking for a comparison between it and the RAZOR HD GEN III 1-10, to repeat my point. :)
Yes, I believe that point has been expressed, I'm looking for a comparison between it and the RAZOR HD GEN III 1-10, to repeat my point. :)
There are plenty of YouTube reviews on each. Why not watch those and form your own opinion based on your own needs?
There are plenty of YouTube reviews on each. Why not watch those and form your own opinion based on your own needs?
I was under the impression this was a discussion forum where people could ask questions and gain insights from participants, if it is not, perhaps it should just shut down and refer everyone to YouTube.
My specific question remains:
Has anyone here done a comparison specifically between the NX8 and the RAZOR HD GEN III 1-10, or, for that matter a specific comparison between the ATACR and the RAZOR III, etc.
I was under the impression this was a discussion forum where people could ask questions and gain insights from participants, if it is not, perhaps it should just shut down and refer everyone to YouTube.
My specific question remains:
Has anyone here done a comparison specifically between the NX8 and the RAZOR HD GEN III 1-10, or, for that matter a specific comparison between the ATACR and the RAZOR III, etc.
Yeah you’re right, good luck finding the one person here on the forum with time behind both that you actually trust the opinion of. Carry on and don’t do any research for yourself.
Sabre675 has some input on the Vortex 1x10. It all comes down to priorities, primarily size and weight vs better glass and improved reticles (elevation and windage holds). Like I said ATACR 1x8 is a better direct comparator to the Vortex 1x10.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?80781-LMT-308-MWS-Pictures-show-us-your-setup&p=2822905#post2822905
I was under the impression this was a discussion forum where people could ask questions and gain insights from participants, if it is not, perhaps it should just shut down and refer everyone to YouTube.
My specific question remains:
Has anyone here done a comparison specifically between the NX8 and the RAZOR HD GEN III 1-10, or, for that matter a specific comparison between the ATACR and the RAZOR III, etc.
To clarify, no. We don't do that here :sarcastic: In all seriousness, it is probably easier for someone respected on YT (like GunsNGear, Garand, etc) to walk you through the differences. Guys like that have a lot of rounds through these and probably will have better points than you'll find here...and will be able to show you what they're talking about with visual aids. Garand's Vortex video actually compares it to the NF.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1R8TlaYsF0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoZ3leUm98A
I don't own either but have been behind both briefly. The Vortex is a bit longer and they both seemed to be the same weight. These are both so good that your preference will probably be dictated by your use case. At this price glass is fantastic on both, no fishbowl at 1x, etc. I find the ATACR to be quicker at 1X, thanks to the beefier reticle that draws your eye in. The Vortex is no slouch though, and reticle seems smaller at 1x in part to the huge FOV. If distance work is more a priority, the Vortex (MRAD) is superior IMO. I found the reticle to be thick/obstructive at 8x on the NightForce, and this is the most common gripe I've heard about it. Again though, this again depends on your use case/size of what you'll be targeting.
Just my thoughts, I'm currently looking at these, Trij Credo 1-8x, etc. Haven't made a decision yet but the Vortex always wins out in my mind so far.
To clarify, no. We don't do that here :sarcastic: In all seriousness, it is probably easier for someone respected on YT (like GunsNGear, Garand, etc) to walk you through the differences. Guys like that have a lot of rounds through these and probably will have better points than you'll find here...and will be able to show you what they're talking about with visual aids. Garand's Vortex video actually compares it to the NF.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1R8TlaYsF0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoZ3leUm98A
If he were inclined to take my advice, I would add the SupersetCA YT channel for some pretty good optic reviews including the ones he’s asking about. I’ll also point out that he was originally asking about the NX8 and Vortex G3...which really are apples and oranges. You don’t buy the NX8 for the same reasons as buying the G3, and vice versa.
I’ve owned the NX8 for a couple years and my comments on it can be found on this forum (and even this thread), if he were inclined to do his own research. Just sayin.
If he were inclined to take my advice, I would add the SupersetCA YT channel for some pretty good optic reviews including the ones he’s asking about. I’ll also point out that he was originally asking about the NX8 and Vortex G3...which really are apples and oranges. You don’t buy the NX8 for the same reasons as buying the G3, and vice versa.
I’ve owned the NX8 for a couple years and my comments on it can be found on this forum (and even this thread), if he were inclined to do his own research. Just sayin.
One hunnit. Completely agree.
To clarify, no. We don't do that here :sarcastic: In all seriousness, it is probably easier for someone respected on YT (like GunsNGear, Garand, etc) to walk you through the differences. Guys like that have a lot of rounds through these and probably will have better points than you'll find here...and will be able to show you what they're talking about with visual aids. Garand's Vortex video actually compares it to the NF.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1R8TlaYsF0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoZ3leUm98A
I don't own either but have been behind both briefly. The Vortex is a bit longer and they both seemed to be the same weight. These are both so good that your preference will probably be dictated by your use case. At this price glass is fantastic on both, no fishbowl at 1x, etc. I find the ATACR to be quicker at 1X, thanks to the beefier reticle that draws your eye in. The Vortex is no slouch though, and reticle seems smaller at 1x in part to the huge FOV. If distance work is more a priority, the Vortex (MRAD) is superior IMO. I found the reticle to be thick/obstructive at 8x on the NightForce, and this is the most common gripe I've heard about it. Again though, this again depends on your use case/size of what you'll be targeting.
Just my thoughts, I'm currently looking at these, Trij Credo 1-8x, etc. Haven't made a decision yet but the Vortex always wins out in my mind so far.
Thanks for the helpful comment and links. I appreciate it. I just finished watching the Garand Thumb review of the VORTEX.
I was under the impression this was a discussion forum where people could ask questions and gain insights from participants, if it is not, perhaps it should just shut down and refer everyone to YouTube.
My specific question remains:
Has anyone here done a comparison specifically between the NX8 and the RAZOR HD GEN III 1-10, or, for that matter a specific comparison between the ATACR and the RAZOR III, etc.
Scope choices are very personal, I've seen guys love one scope and other guys hate it. The other problem is that there is no perfect scope and they keep getting better all the time.
Try SuperSetCA on YT. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU3HVeaDkb8
He's been doing vids on a lot of stuff lately, they're interesting, but the only way to decide is to see them yourself.
I went to buy a high end scope and decided not to because the less expensive scopes are damn good and light weight these days and I didn't need or want 1 to 8 or 10X. So for the time being I just bought a Trijicon Creedo 1-6X. Very good scope the only downside is that its not strictly daylight bright. Which is OK for me I'm not a three gunner and do pretty well without it.
I may still buy an NX8 just because its so light and has a bright reticle, but the eyebox could be a bigger problem than the thick reticle. I'll have to take a look at one.
Try SuperSetCA on YT. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU3HVeaDkb8
I enjoyed his comparison video of premium LPVOs.
So, I guess the point of this thread is pretty much lost now in this. Oh well.
No dude, it's good, no drama...
Look at Tijicon's Credo line, I bought a 1x6 23model for light weight. Probably not as durable as a NX8, but has .1 mil adjustment, glass similar to vortex and weighs just 18.9oz and comes in around $800.
No dude, it's good, no drama...
Look at Tijicon's Credo line, I bought a 1x6 23model for light weight. Probably not as durable as a NX8, but has .1 mil adjustment, glass similar to vortex and weighs just 18.9oz and comes in around $800.
Thanks for the suggestion, will check it out.
No dude, it's good, no drama...
Look at Tijicon's Credo line, I bought a 1x6 23model for light weight. Probably not as durable as a NX8, but has .1 mil adjustment, glass similar to vortex and weighs just 18.9oz and comes in around $800.
Yeah, I got the Credo 1-6 in BDC second focal plane because I don't see the need for FFP in a 1-6. In a 1-8 or 1-10 the FFP would be more useful IMHO. But with the 1-6, I'm either on 1X or 6X. And I won't use it as a precision scope. About 300-400 absolute max on steel or large targets.
But everyone has their own reasoning and its just as valid.
The Creedo 1-6 is light and appears well built. I paired it with a lightweight (5.5 OZ) Nightforce mount. It balances well on the AR I put it on, so far I like it.
Yeah, I got the Credo 1-6 in BDC second focal plane because I don't see the need for FFP in a 1-6. In a 1-8 or 1-10 the FFP would be more useful IMHO. But with the 1-6, I'm either on 1X or 6X. And I won't use it as a precision scope. About 300-400 absolute max on steel or large targets.
If the BDC had been for 77 I'd gone that route as it would work for 69 gr, 77 gr and 308. They are nice and light with good glass, and have the circle of death. Not Nightforce quality but still a nice option that also works non-illuminated.
motorcopm4
10-27-20, 16:07
I have the opportunity to shoot and train a lot. Over this period of time since I started testing LPVOs I have broken nearly every single second focal plane LPVO ive used, tested and evaluated (NF NXS 1-4 is g2g). This list includes Vortex 1-6 generations (Loss of zero, wire reticle failure), kahles sm1 1-6 (erector failure), swaro 1-6 brti (erector failure), old USO 1-4 and 1-8 with their DFP dot tech (FFP etched reticles were good, dot broke every time in SFP), steiner p4xi (wire reticle failure), steiner t5xi (erector failure), sig tango (erector failure), strike eagle (moisture failure), PST 1-6 (electronics failure). I have also never broken a highend FFP LPVO. The list of FFP LPVOs that I recommend in order is the NF Atacar 1-8, NF NX8 1-8, and leupold mk6 as they have proven to be the most durable, repeatable, and quality choices on the market right now with a proven track record. I have over 5k rounds so far on a vortex 1-10 but its just too soon to add that to my list of recommended LPVOs at this time, but man is it pretty sweet. Basically it comes down to this, I always recommend high quality FFP LPVOs over SFP LPVOs due to etched reticles and more robust turrets and erectors. I will always trade a little eybox performance for more reliability, especially if that reliability also gains me weight savings and size savings in regards to the nx8.
Wow. Maybe one day I’ll have the ammo, $$ to train that much. You sure are hard on equipment
That’s good, You know what works. Everyone compares the eye box of the NX8 to a razor FFP to SFP you just can’t. Our snipers use the Razor II 1-6 right now and like it but it’s a govn and price and warranty come into play. And they don’t shoot 7.62 all that much Nightforce says the best warranty is making optics you don’t need a warranty for. I haven’t broken my NX8 1-8 yet
davidjinks
10-27-20, 16:56
Mount came in today, A496 Unimount.
To say this scope is finicky is an understatement in regards to diopter adjustment and eye relief. That is, until you get it in a mount and put it on your rifle.
Once I got the eye relief set and felt comfortable with the placement of the mount, I torqued everything to spec and did a few presentations with the rifle.
Eye relief is near perfect, diopter adjustment is excellent, the fisheye that I was experiencing is gone.
The best advice I can give someone who is a first time buyer of this particular scope; get it out of the box, set the diopter as best as you can and then get it into a mount. Night and day difference.
I’ll try to get up some pics later.
The best advice I can give someone who is a first time buyer of this particular scope; get it out of the box, set the diopter as best as you can and then get it into a mount. Night and day difference.
I’ll try to get up some pics later.
Sorry, are you referring to the NX8? I'm still trying to decide, but now find myself leaning toward the Nightforce.
motorcopm4
10-28-20, 08:26
I was going to say that myself on the Nightforce, eyebox can only be tested when the scope is mounted on the rifle. Everyone says how tight it is they must be looking through it at a dealer out of the box.
My NX8 seemed tight till it was mounted and on the range
Hey, my apologies for a dumb question:
"Eye box" is .... what, exactly?
And is this different from the distance from eye to optic?
Thanks.
motorcopm4
10-28-20, 08:36
Hey, my apologies for a dumb question:
"Eye box" is .... what, exactly?
And is this different from the distance from eye to optic?
Thanks.
That’s eye relief. Eye box is defined as the amount of "allowable error" in a shooter's eye relief position, yet still offering a clear target image.
The eye box is a function of the allowable lateral and axial movement of the eye pupil while still maintaining a clear view of the target. It is dependent on min/max values for eye relief, EP diameter and the diameter of the eye pupil.
In other words the scope shadow left to right and the eye relief being to short
Have you seen the image through a razorII? Hardly any scope shadow at all but it’s second focal plane
That's very helpful and thanks and now....second focal plane v. first....I've read about this but always forget.
OK, so ... just watched Vortex's video on FFP v. 2FP....seems on a LPVO the FFP makes a bit more sense so you get a nice large reticle at 1x.
What am I missing? I think I can see the point of 2FP on higher magnifications of over 8 or 10....but seems FFP makes a lot of sense with a LPVO.
Bless your heart Paul T McCain...
Back again...?
LMFAO.
davidjinks
10-28-20, 09:13
Nightforce NX8 1-8x24.
Sorry, are you referring to the NX8? I'm still trying to decide, but now find myself leaning toward the Nightforce.
Just found this really interesting post with comments following on the ATACR 1-8
https://soldiersystems.net/2018/10/01/ussocom-selects-nightforce-for-squad-variable-powered-scopes-first-focal-plane-contract-worth-up-to-21-million/
davidjinks
10-28-20, 09:19
I’m lost.....what does this mean?
Bless your heart Paul T McCain...
Back again...?
LMFAO.
Mount came in today, A496 Unimount.
To say this scope is finicky is an understatement in regards to diopter adjustment and eye relief. That is, until you get it in a mount and put it on your rifle.
Once I got the eye relief set and felt comfortable with the placement of the mount, I torqued everything to spec and did a few presentations with the rifle.
Eye relief is near perfect, diopter adjustment is excellent, the fisheye that I was experiencing is gone.
The best advice I can give someone who is a first time buyer of this particular scope; get it out of the box, set the diopter as best as you can and then get it into a mount. Night and day difference.
I’ll try to get up some pics later.
I would even say that the diopter shouldn't be set until you have it mounted and eye relief set. Not saying you can't do it first, but it would be much more efficient (and possibly better off) to set it in a mount first.
I'm assuming you should adjust eye relief in the position you will be shooting it most often, correct?
If you have and adjustable stock, eye relief is less critical. I usually set my scope eye piece even with or just forward of the back of the charging handle. This keeps the rifle somewhat tight (compact) with adjustment room both in and out. My neutral position is my nose about one finger width from the charging handle. If I'm shooting prone, I adjust the stock out a click or two.
With my NX8, I had the set the diopter on 6x. This was the best compromise, setting it at 8x would jack up 1x for me by causing reticle doubling. There was no perfect setting.
@LMT/556 Thanks, great advice. That NX8 is looking better and better all the time for me, the weight and length is very attractive, compared to the ATACR. Thanks. for
I’m lost.....what does this mean?
Spider sense of MikeF....
It’s not even hard to see Paul T McCain these days, his tells are YUGE!!!!
motorcopm4
10-28-20, 11:11
@LMT/556 Thanks, great advice. That NX8 is looking better and better all the time for me, the weight and length is very attractive, compared to the ATACR. Thanks. for
I have my NX8 on my 10.5” SBR. I don’t think there a smaller 1-8 on the market
RKB Armory
10-28-20, 15:36
Bless your heart Paul T McCain...
Back again...?
LMFAO.
I was wondering the same thing.
Bless your heart Paul T McCain...
Back again...?
LMFAO.
I’m lost.....what does this mean?
Spider sense of MikeF....
It’s not even hard to see Paul T McCain these days, his tells are YUGE!!!!
I was wondering the same thing.
Handled.
Hugs-n-Kisses Paul McCain.
https://media4.giphy.com/media/14ceV8wMLIGO6Q/giphy.gif
davidjinks
10-28-20, 19:31
I’m seriously considering another scope purchase for my 6933.
The more I mess with this setup, the more I’m liking it. Live range time will give me a better feel.
I have my NX8 on my 10.5” SBR. I don’t think there a smaller 1-8 on the market
I’m seriously considering another scope purchase for my 6933.
The more I mess with this setup, the more I’m liking it. Live range time will give me a better feel.
I have two NX-8s, currently on 16" Carbines (BCM & Colt), but I could easily put one on my 11.5" SBR - but that is setup for NVD use with a T-2 / 3x Mag and such, so I'll likely leave it as is.
Is it perfect? No, but then again there isn't much out there that is when it comes to firearms. Just different sets of tradeoffs / etc.
davidjinks
10-30-20, 18:28
Nothing fancy.....
http://i.imgur.com/h38VgVI.jpg (https://imgur.com/h38VgVI)
http://i.imgur.com/HOCzRUo.jpg (https://imgur.com/HOCzRUo)
http://i.imgur.com/RMGpsen.jpg (https://imgur.com/RMGpsen)
I have my NX8 on my 10.5” SBR. I don’t think there a smaller 1-8 on the market
But, do you like it as a functioning scope?
davidjinks
11-01-20, 19:09
Question for you all.......
Do you guys use loctite on your scope mounts or just go with manufacturer specs for torque?
I have a Borka to torque, but lately have just been doing it by feel with a MAC screw handle. Just x pattern and tighten incrementally. No locktite needed IMO.
So far I’ve only torqued with the Wheeler wrench but I may go back and loctite since it’s always been in the back of my mind. I haven’t seen any shift as of yet though.
vicious_cb
11-01-20, 20:05
Question for you all.......
Do you guys use loctite on your scope mounts or just go with manufacturer specs for torque?
Don't, loctite lubricates the threads leading to incorrect readings on your wrench. You'll end up over torqueing the screws and possibly damaging the scope body.
davidjinks
11-01-20, 20:18
I’ve never used loctite on any scope mount, however doing some reading I see where quite a few people say they use loctite.
I have a Borka to torque, but lately have just been doing it by feel with a MAC screw handle. Just x pattern and tighten incrementally. No locktite needed IMO.
I use the Wheeler fat wrench myself. I will be springing for the NF tools in the future.
So far I’ve only torqued with the Wheeler wrench but I may go back and loctite since it’s always been in the back of my mind. I haven’t seen any shift as of yet though.
Thank you sir! I did go with the NF specs, 25 Inch pounds for the ring caps and 65 inch pounds for the cross bolts.
Don't, loctite lubricates the threads leading to incorrect readings on your wrench. You'll end up over torqueing the screws and possibly damaging the scope body.
motorcopm4
11-01-20, 20:26
I usually use ADM mounts that have a thread loc like loctite on the threads. I torque then silver paint the position so I know if it moves
I will be springing for the NF tools in the future..and 65 inch pounds for the cross bolts.
Kit code: PTL0065K1
In stock: Yes
Price: $37.00 (http://shooterstools.com/Pages/PTL/ptlkits.html)
I use this Borka 65 inch-lbs torque limiter for the cross bolts, when I ordered it I asked for a 1/2" socket. I use this a lot.
https://i.imgur.com/4cbD8Ich.jpg
davidjinks
11-02-20, 06:46
Thank you!
Kit code: PTL0065K1
In stock: Yes
Price: $37.00 (http://shooterstools.com/Pages/PTL/ptlkits.html)
I use this Borka 65 inch-lbs torque limiter for the cross bolts, when I ordered it I asked for a 1/2" socket. I use this a lot.
https://i.imgur.com/4cbD8Ich.jpg
https://geissele.com/amfile/file/download/file/daaf9586535ae6396d9bf918bc71b65f/product/485/
6. After a final check of reticle alignment and eye relief, the scope caps can be tightened to their final torqued value. The four screws which hold the cap together should be tightened in an ‘X’ pattern. Take care to make sure the gaps on either side are kept even (FIGURE 3). The screws can be torqued tight using a T15 star hex key screwdriver. Alternately, if the user would like to use a torque wrench, the final torque value should be 15-18 inch-pounds (Figure 4).
NOTE:It is not recommended to use thread locker (Loctite) on the cap screws. We have found that they will remain in place and stay tightened during use. However, if thread locker is used, it can only be Loctite 222 Purple. Do Not Use Blue or Red versions.
I usually use ADM mounts that have a thread loc like loctite on the threads. I torque then silver paint the position so I know if it moves
Vibratite. A bit different than locktite, it seems to gum the threads up to reduce the risk of them backing out due to vibrations - not hard to undo them but they don't move on their own. I typically use this instead of locktite for optic mounts, just a drop then slightly under-torque the spec to make up for the liquid. Zero issues. I also paint pen things to be able to visually see if they are backing out at all.
There comes a point we are measuring with a micrometer and cutting with a chainsaw.
Good to know about the loctite...thanks fellas.
davidjinks
11-04-20, 20:23
I had some time at the range with this scope. Some small things I don’t like; 8x I found the eye box to be tight when in the prone, not too bad off the bench, and okay while standing. I’m still messing with the diopter a little here and there. I’m trying to find a comfortable medium. I did notice some kind of double reticle on 1x with the illumination on. It was at setting 4 when I noticed it. At setting 3 it was fine.
I had no problems getting solid hits at 100 with the scope. I went into this knowing this isn’t a “precision” oriented scope.
PPU M193, IMI M193, and BH 77 grain 5.56 were used for shooting. I don’t think my rifle likes the IMI. The shots outside of center were from the last 20 rounds for the day which was the IMI. The PPU and BH ammo did okay.
http://i.imgur.com/PSxQsDp.jpg (https://imgur.com/PSxQsDp)
davidjinks
12-16-20, 23:12
My scope is zeroed and ready to go.
I still think my diopter can be tweaked a bit more. There’s still a slight issue with fish eye and parallax.
Question: If I adjust the diopter, is there a chance that that adjustment can affect the zero of the scope?
My scope is zeroed and ready to go.
I still think my diopter can be tweaked a bit more. There’s still a slight issue with fish eye and parallax.
Question: If I adjust the diopter, is there a chance that that adjustment can affect the zero of the scope?
I’m no expert but...it won’t affect it at all. How are you setting your diopter?
davidjinks
12-17-20, 06:30
I’ve done it a few different ways...
First time: I loosened everything, unscrewed diopter all the OUT until everything was blurry. Took my time to adjust until the reticle got crisp at 1x with a quick snap shot. From there I moved the mag to 4x, 6x, and 8x and repeated the process.
Second time: I loosened everything up and screwed the diopter all the way IN and repeated the above steps.
Clear, bright background, no interferences with anything.
Maybe I’m being too picky and OCD. The fisheye isn’t horrible but it is noticeable. The parallax is only noticeable at 1x but it’s minimal.
I’m no expert but...it won’t affect it at all. How are you setting your diopter?
I’ve done it a few different ways...
Have you tried it this way below? This was post 29 and maybe before you got the NX8, so you may have missed it. Like I mentioned, if you plan to use this more as a red dot as opposed to a LR scope, flat 1x (no fisheye) is more important than the reticle being crisp to the n’th degree. JMO. In my experience with the NX8, getting the 1x to be flat also gives you an acceptable reticle and picture clarity (to my eyes).
For a LPVO with 1x as the bottom end, the way I do it is set the diopter so that I get as “flat” or true 1x of an image as possible when looking at different objects at 10ish yards away. I like to look at a fence line and get the top edge of it to line up going through the FOV. With my NX8, that also gave me a pretty clear picture & reticle, but you can probably tweak it from there slightly if it looks a little blurry to you.
ETA: not staring at the reticle is also an important point as mentioned above. Once I get a true 1x, I’ll tweak it if need be and get a quick sight picture to gauge the reticle clarity. This is all done on 1x btw. You can also try going to the top end mag and double checking reticle clarity there, but IMO 1x sight picture is more important with these scopes.
Do you have this mounted in a +MOA mount, or zero MOA?
davidjinks
12-17-20, 09:58
I will try the method you listed today.
Have you tried it this way below? This was post 29 and maybe before you got the NX8, so you may have missed it. Like I mentioned, if you plan to use this more as a red dot as opposed to a LR scope, flat 1x (no fisheye) is more important than the reticle being crisp to the n’th degree. JMO. In my experience with the NX8, getting the 1x to be flat also gives you an acceptable reticle and picture clarity (to my eyes).
davidjinks
12-17-20, 09:59
Nightforce, A496, 0 MOA mount.
Do you have this mounted in a +MOA mount, or zero MOA?
I adjusted mine at 6x as a compromise, and work my way out not in. Slightly off center and it changes focus (or causes reticle doubling). These scopes are super picky as a result of their compact size, an artifact of design trade-offs.
davidjinks
12-17-20, 12:31
Most picky scope I’ve owned to date. My original NF 1-4 was simple and took about 15 seconds to get it perfect.
I adjusted mine at 6x as a compromise, and work my way out not in. Slightly off center and it changes focus (or causes reticle doubling). These scopes are super picky as a result of their compact size, an artifact of design trade-offs.
It is a picky optic when it comes to diopter settings - I think some of that is people desire for 1x to be 1X, not 1.05x, these days but still its more work than my Vortex 1-6 PST II or the Razor II I owned briefly.
My first NX8 wasn't as particular, but my second was a bit more finicky. I have it tight and also paint lines to ensure I know if it moves off the mark.
Walker_Texasranger
12-19-20, 18:38
It is a picky optic when it comes to diopter settings - I think some of that is people desire for 1x to be 1X, not 1.05x, these days but still its more work than my Vortex 1-6 PST II or the Razor II I owned briefly.
My first NX8 wasn't as particular, but my second was a bit more finicky. I have it tight and also paint lines to ensure I know if it moves off the mark.
So how do you like the NX8 compared to the razor II?
I had a Razor IIE for a bit but it was heavy and bulky so I’m attracted to the NX8.
So how do you like the NX8 compared to the razor II?
I had a Razor IIE for a bit but it was heavy and bulky so I’m attracted to the NX8.
The NX-8 was definitely an upgrade IMO from the Razor IIE (I also had one for a short time but replaced it with the NX-8).
Some of the 'issues' ppl have with the NX8 are overblown - yes the diopter is a bit more sensitive, but that's a set it and forget it. Yes, the eyebox isn't as good as a Razor but it's still easy to get behind. Yes, it's reticle is not designed for precision shooting at extended ranges; but it wasn't designed to. Both can be CRAZY bright, so illumination isn't an issue for either. But the Razor is bigger and heavier. I have found that not using a rear scope cap on the NX8 helps with the overall 1x picture - it isn't as 'invisible' as a Razor / PST II can be, but it's better that with a cap. I use a cheap buttler creek rear for storage and then take it off when using the rifle and a quality front cap.
I have two NX8 MOAs (one capped elevation, one un-capped) and it's my preferred LPVO. I have considered trying a Razor III, but I'm a MOA guy, so the MIL doesn't appeal and the BDC thing really doesn't work for any of the rifles I'd put it on (16"/13" 308 semis). Yeah it would give you 2 more on the high end, but I'm not a keeping up with the joneses kinda guy - my semi-precision AR-15 runs a NXS 2.5-10x24 with an RMR biggybacked on top, which is interesting now back 'en vogue' with ppl using NVDs and shooting from a heads up position. I'm going to put another RMR on top of the capped NX8, which is a Colt 6920-R Trooper.
davidjinks
12-20-20, 17:37
This scope about caused me to have an aneurism today. It almost got a free ride out the window.
With that being said, I solved my problem. Traditionally I am a NTCH shooter. Been that way since I learned to shoot these types of rifles when I joined the Army. It’s a habit that was just broken today.
I run all of my SOPMOD stocks 1 position out from being fully collapsed. Today, that changed, I now run them in the 3rd position.
The rifle went into my vice setup. I unscrewed the diopter and ring and ran the diopter all the way in. From there, on 1x, focusing at 4 different objects ranging from 7-100 yards, I began to run the diopter back out. It took about 3/4 of a turn and all was great in the world.
From there, I locked the diopter and locking ring down tight. I began traversing each target getting quick snap shot sight pictures with and without illumination. I also began checking clarity of the reticle from 1x all the way through 8x.
Ironman8: I wasn’t fully tracking in regards to what you were saying about getting the sight picture as flat as possible. That is until I had the diopter all the way in and begin adjusting out. There is a huge difference in the sight picture and reticle from when I originally started.
Absolutely happy with the outcome! Thanks to all of you guys who had input on adjusting this scope!
How do you get in the mil/le program and do you need to be active?
Good deal, glad you got it to work for you. I didn’t do the bench vice thing but maybe my NX8 wasn’t as picky. Out of curiosity, is 100% of the fisheye gone or is there a small amount left? I ask because I did notice that I have ever so slight amount left at the outermost edges, but I have to really look for it. When shooting at speed, it’s never been noticeable. I also agree with RHINOWSO, that you can’t expect these scopes to be a perfect 1x like an aimpoint. Just too many lenses and voodoo going on in there for it to act as a single lense with a dot being projected onto it.
Also, you said you went from NTCH to 3rd position out. I did this same thing years back before I ever got the NX8, but I’m curious if you had to change your eye relief when you changed your LOP? My NX8 sits about flush with the back of the charging handle and eye relief is set to middle of the range when I’m on position 3. If I were to move much further than one click either way on the stock, I would have scope shadow induced with the change in LOP and I’d have to change head position significantly. Just trying to understand how this would help/change the diopter issues you were having?
How do you get in the mil/le program and do you need to be active?
Apply with NightForce. Active LEO/1st Responders qualify also.
davidjinks
12-20-20, 20:50
If I search for it, I can see a very small amount of the fisheye. If I’m using the scope as intended or in the prone I cannot see it.
In regards to changing stock positions; I never moved the scope, only the stock. No shadow, no double donuts, no blur. I’ll post up a picture in a few of the current position of my scope.
Good deal, glad you got it to work for you. I didn’t do the bench vice thing but maybe my NX8 wasn’t as picky. Out of curiosity, is 100% of the fisheye gone or is there a small amount left? I ask because I did notice that I have ever so slight amount left at the outermost edges, but I have to really look for it. When shooting at speed, it’s never been noticeable. I also agree with RHINOWSO, that you can’t expect these scopes to be a perfect 1x like an aimpoint. Just too many lenses and voodoo going on in there for it to act as a single lense with a dot being projected onto it.
Also, you said you went from NTCH to 3rd position out. I did this same thing years back before I ever got the NX8, but I’m curious if you had to change your eye relief when you changed your LOP? My NX8 sits about flush with the back of the charging handle and eye relief is set to middle of the range when I’m on position 3. If I were to move much further than one click either way on the stock, I would have scope shadow induced with the change in LOP and I’d have to change head position significantly. Just trying to understand how this would help/change the diopter issues you were having?
davidjinks
12-20-20, 22:02
Take into account, I didn’t move the scope or mount. I adjusted the stock position and diopter.
http://i.imgur.com/UZ9C1hE.jpg (https://imgur.com/UZ9C1hE)
Rear of A496 mount sits at T6 slot.
http://i.imgur.com/sE1vVyn.jpg (https://imgur.com/sE1vVyn)
Overall position.
http://i.imgur.com/saAooAU.jpg (https://imgur.com/saAooAU)
64629
This works very well for me on 1x and 8x. I am extremely sensitive to diopter shift, and have 20/10 vision.
Question for you all.......
Do you guys use loctite on your scope mounts or just go with manufacturer specs for torque?
I use loctite 243 on the ring caps. My shit doesn't move. I have never had an issue with scope tube integrity, either. I torque to the mount's spec, and use Nightforce optics. For me, that's Badger C1 at 20 in-lb.
davidjinks
12-22-20, 22:00
If I had to guesstimate with my MK1 eyeball, that’s about where I ended up with my diopter.
I’m 20/15 in right eye and 20/20 in the left.
64629
This works very well for me on 1x and 8x. I am extremely sensitive to diopter shift, and have 20/10 vision.
contax_shooter
12-22-20, 22:43
This scope about caused me to have an aneurism today. It almost got a free ride out the window.
With that being said, I solved my problem. Traditionally I am a NTCH shooter. Been that way since I learned to shoot these types of rifles when I joined the Army. It’s a habit that was just broken today.
I run all of my SOPMOD stocks 1 position out from being fully collapsed. Today, that changed, I now run them in the 3rd position.
The rifle went into my vice setup. I unscrewed the diopter and ring and ran the diopter all the way in. From there, on 1x, focusing at 4 different objects ranging from 7-100 yards, I began to run the diopter back out. It took about 3/4 of a turn and all was great in the world.
From there, I locked the diopter and locking ring down tight. I began traversing each target getting quick snap shot sight pictures with and without illumination. I also began checking clarity of the reticle from 1x all the way through 8x.
Ironman8: I wasn’t fully tracking in regards to what you were saying about getting the sight picture as flat as possible. That is until I had the diopter all the way in and begin adjusting out. There is a huge difference in the sight picture and reticle from when I originally started.
Absolutely happy with the outcome! Thanks to all of you guys who had input on adjusting this scope!
You're ate up..
Refer to Rudy's instruction at Ridgeline on how to properly determine your length of pull and rifle set up.
https://www.ridgelineshooting.com/the-smoke-pit/precision-rifle-set-up-part-i
https://youtu.be/r5iRchc6Eqc
You don't adjust the scope's diopter for target focus, you set it to focus your reticle:
1) Set optic to max magnification and rotate the diopter all the way out but before you completely remove the barrel
2) Point the gun/optic at the sky
3) Close your eye and briefly open your eye (no more than 5 seconds) to view through the target. Close your eye to reset if you're messing this up.
3a) If the reticle is blurry, close your eye, turn the diopter some and briefly view through the glass
3b) Repeat 3-3b until reticle is in focus
Your length of pull should be very close across all platforms.
You want to tighten scope rings in accordance to optic torque specifications..
You're ate up..
Refer to Rudy's instruction at Ridgeline on how to properly determine your length of pull and rifle set up.
https://www.ridgelineshooting.com/the-smoke-pit/precision-rifle-set-up-part-i
https://youtu.be/r5iRchc6Eqc
You don't adjust the scope's diopter for target focus, you set it to focus your reticle:
1) Set optic to max magnification and rotate the diopter all the way out but before you completely remove the barrel
2) Point the gun/optic at the sky
3) Close your eye and briefly open your eye (no more than 5 seconds) to view through the target. Close your eye to reset if you're messing this up.
3a) If the reticle is blurry, close your eye, turn the diopter some and briefly view through the glass
3b) Repeat 3-3b until reticle is in focus
Your length of pull should be very close across all platforms.
You want to tighten scope rings in accordance to optic torque specifications..
I've tried that. Reticle is crisp at nearly any diopter setting. No go, here.
Have to look at a grid. Then I make the grid and reticle crisp. Or letters or whatever. Something requiring good resolution. I often use bullet holes in paper at 100m. That is at the edge of my perception on a 6x optic, so it works great.
davidjinks
12-23-20, 05:31
I specifically stated that I was looking for reticle crispness. For me and my eyeballs I need to have contrasting backgrounds in order for that to happen.
You're ate up..
Refer to Rudy's instruction at Ridgeline on how to properly determine your length of pull and rifle set up.
https://www.ridgelineshooting.com/the-smoke-pit/precision-rifle-set-up-part-i
https://youtu.be/r5iRchc6Eqc
You don't adjust the scope's diopter for target focus, you set it to focus your reticle:
1) Set optic to max magnification and rotate the diopter all the way out but before you completely remove the barrel
2) Point the gun/optic at the sky
3) Close your eye and briefly open your eye (no more than 5 seconds) to view through the target. Close your eye to reset if you're messing this up.
3a) If the reticle is blurry, close your eye, turn the diopter some and briefly view through the glass
3b) Repeat 3-3b until reticle is in focus
Your length of pull should be very close across all platforms.
You want to tighten scope rings in accordance to optic torque specifications..
contax_shooter
12-23-20, 08:15
I've tried that. Reticle is crisp at nearly any diopter setting. No go, here.
Have to look at a grid. Then I make the grid and reticle crisp. Or letters or whatever. Something requiring good resolution. I often use bullet holes in paper at 100m. That is at the edge of my perception on a 6x optic, so it works great.
The only issue is that all LPVO's have a set parallax distance, so the focal distance from your face to the etched reticle is a fixed measurement.
I specifically stated that I was looking for reticle crispness. For me and my eyeballs I need to have contrasting backgrounds in order for that to happen.
Point the gun at a blank wall with a flashlight. You should have instantaneous "crispness" of the reticle, if not, you're straining your eyeballs to make up for it.
davidjinks
01-17-21, 16:27
Someone help me out here...
My diopter rings on both of my 1-8 scopes will not stay locked. I don’t think I can tighten them down any more than what I have without breaking the scope.
My other 2 NF scopes don’t have this problem. 1 sits on my .308 bolt gun and the other sits on a Tikka .22.
Try a strap wrench. I know what you are talking about.
davidjinks
01-18-21, 16:35
Not to be obtuse here...strap wrench applied to the diopter ring and not the ocular eye piece correct?
Another question...is this a common occurrence with the 1-8 scope? I’ve not ever experienced this with any other NF scope.
Try a strap wrench. I know what you are talking about.
Strap wrench on the ring yes and maybe a jar type grip pad on the ocular. Short of putting wrenches on them what else can you do...
My first tightened / locked easily.
My second was a little more of a pain but I was able to lock it by hand after some effort.
It also helps if you mark the diopter setting with paint pen - I mark both rings to line up with the 1x marking.
DefenderAO
02-03-21, 16:37
I was under the impression this was a discussion forum where people could ask questions and gain insights from participants, if it is not, perhaps it should just shut down and refer everyone to YouTube.
My specific question remains:
Has anyone here done a comparison specifically between the NX8 and the RAZOR HD GEN III 1-10, or, for that matter a specific comparison between the ATACR and the RAZOR III, etc.
I'm way late and behind but see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcRPwKE1msg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcRPwKE1msg)
I'm way late and behind but see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcRPwKE1msg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcRPwKE1msg)
Creeper crotch-zooming.
Creeper crotch-zooming.
Agreed, and those two scopes are not in the same class really. The Vortex 1x10 competes most directly with the ATACR 1x8.
I'm way late and behind but see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcRPwKE1msg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcRPwKE1msg)
MikeF might have been retired...
Glad I found this thread. I bought a BCM 14.5 ELW upper with a pinned and welded BCM comp. I already own 2 NF scopes so this should be a no brainer for my first LVPO. Brownells has the NX8 1-8x for $1750 with a no name mount included. A bit leery on the no name mount. The NX8 will stay on this upper and generally be used out to 400 yards. Also looking at the Primary Arms 1-8 platinum and the Trijicon credo. The PA won’t be available until may per the website. Still more research to do but the NF is looking good. Not willing to pay for the ATACR.
Glad I found this thread. I bought a BCM 14.5 ELW upper with a pinned and welded BCM comp. I already own 2 NF scopes so this should be a no brainer for my first LVPO. Brownells has the NX8 1-8x for $1750 with a no name mount included. A bit leery on the no name mount. The NX8 will stay on this upper and generally be used out to 400 yards. Also looking at the Primary Arms 1-8 platinum and the Trijicon credo. The PA won’t be available until may per the website. Still more research to do but the NF is looking good. Not willing to pay for the ATACR.
The advantage of the NF is the weight/size. Pairing that with an ELW upper seems like a good fit. I've been thinking of the same thing, but keep debating between the NX8 and the Razor ii-e
RKB Armory
02-16-21, 10:29
I just switched from a Razor 1-6 II-E to an NX8. The reason I am happy with the switch, and intend to keep the NX8, is the size and weight. This particular rifle is a 14.5 BCM ELW, so the rifle is pretty compact and lightweight.
The Razor is more generous in the eye box, but it is noticeably bulkier on this particular rifle.
titsonritz
02-17-21, 00:43
I have a BCM 14.5 ELW with a pinned a FOSSA I am seriously considering topping with a NX8 for the sole purpose of the tiny footprint and low weight.
DefenderAO
02-17-21, 22:06
Just received my NX8 in a Scalarworks 1.93" mount. Very nice package under 23 total ounces. It's going on a Triarc 12.5" with an OSS Ti can...good balance, lightweight, manageable overall length...
The advantage of the NF is the weight/size. Pairing that with an ELW upper seems like a good fit. I've been thinking of the same thing, but keep debating between the NX8 and the Razor ii-e
Looking forward to the NF NX8 1-8x arriving from Brownells shortly. Need a decent mount for it, thinking about Larue as I have a few of them but also looking at Scalarworks as well.
A question for all.......
Once you have the diopter set, do any of you see a blurry image on the sides around but it’s clear in the middle? Am I doing something wrong?
davidjinks
03-05-21, 14:56
I had something similar to what you’re describing. Wasn’t full on blurry but there was a noticeable difference between the edges and center of the lens.
I corrected it by completely resetting the diopter. For me, I screwed it all the way in and then backed it out IIRC, 2 turns. From there I started adjusting the diopter until it was set for my eyes.
A question for all.......
Once you have the diopter set, do any of you see a blurry image on the sides around but it’s clear in the middle? Am I doing something wrong?
davidjinks
03-05-21, 14:59
I like pretty much anything Larue. I’ve used their mounts for a few years and have never had an issue. Only recently did I go with the Nightforce Unimounts. I don’t plan on removing the optics and moving them around to other rifles so I didn’t need the QD.
I prefer the NF mounts when I don’t need QD and the Larue mounts when I need QD.
Looking forward to the NF NX8 1-8x arriving from Brownells shortly. Need a decent mount for it, thinking about Larue as I have a few of them but also looking at Scalarworks as well.
I had something similar to what you’re describing. Wasn’t full on blurry but there was a noticeable difference between the edges and center of the lens.
I corrected it by completely resetting the diopter. For me, I screwed it all the way in and then backed it out IIRC, 2 turns. From there I started adjusting the diopter until it was set for my eyes.
Ok, sounds like I still need to play around with it a bit.
I like pretty much anything Larue. I’ve used their mounts for a few years and have never had an issue. Only recently did I go with the Nightforce Unimounts. I don’t plan on removing the optics and moving them around to other rifles so I didn’t need the QD.
I prefer the NF mounts when I don’t need QD and the Larue mounts when I need QD.
I have the Brownells mount that was free and am using that until the Larue shows up. Just after I ordered the Larue (showing in stock) I got notification that it was back ordered.
:confused::angry:
davidjinks
03-05-21, 17:44
I hate that crap! Been there done that...
Here’s an option and it is in stock...
https://www.eurooptic.com/Nightforce-XTRM-Ultralite-Uni-Mount-0-MOA-30mm-Like-New-Demo-A496.aspx
Excellent company to deal with. I have one of their demo mounts and it came in a factory sealed package.
I have the Brownells mount that was free and am using that until the Larue shows up. Just after I ordered the Larue (showing in stock) I got notification that it was back ordered.
:confused::angry:
I hate that crap! Been there done that...
Here’s an option and it is in stock...
https://www.eurooptic.com/Nightforce-XTRM-Ultralite-Uni-Mount-0-MOA-30mm-Like-New-Demo-A496.aspx
Excellent company to deal with. I have one of their demo mounts and it came in a factory sealed package.
I may have to switch, maybe I can cancel my order with Larue.
davidjinks
03-06-21, 10:35
I’ve cancelled back ordered orders with them before and have never had an issue with it. It couldn’t hurt to find out.
I may have to switch, maybe I can cancel my order with Larue.
I’ve cancelled back ordered orders with them before and have never had an issue with it. It couldn’t hurt to find out.
Ok, I will look into it. The NF 1-8 is on my 14.5 BCM for now, not sure if it’s going to stay there or not. I need to get it sighted in and play with the diopter.
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