View Full Version : 80% "Glocks" - what's your experience?
I've got to be honest, never really been a glock guy. Perfectly serviceable and highly reliable without a doubt, and I recommend them to those starting out in shooting often. I usually say to them that the G-19 is the easy button for a first pistol. Glocks just never seemed to like me, I didn't shoot them well. The typical complaints. I can adjust to just about any handgun, but my G-17 (Gen 2) I just couldn't really get comfortable with.
Anyway, I decided to build an 80% 19. Partly just to do it, and all the "ghost gun" blah, blah...
Cool right. Man, these things are simple. The big suprise came when I got it all together. I liked the way it felt in my hand. I like the feel when shooting it. The design of the grip is "off" for a glock, but "on" as far as I am concerned.
My question is what to expect from this thing. An 80% AR lower I expect to be as durable and reliable as a factory lower as long as the machine work is correct. I'm not sure what to expect from this. It is obviously not identical. Concessions (from the original at least) have been made to allow for easy completion by the end user. Mine is a P80, so specific or in general what are your experiences with these 80% glocks?
PatrioticDisorder
11-03-20, 11:27
����, pass.
I have one that I bought just because the lefties don't want me to have it. I'll build it if the election doesn't go the right way.
bulldozer3
11-03-20, 13:04
Watch marine gun builder on youtube. Lots of details on getting a good build. Expect fitting, especially the rear rails and front rails/locking block
Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
Thanks I'll check the videos. I've built one, have one more. Seriously though it is very simple. Kind of like an open book test on tying shoes. It seems like the only way to F it up is to not pay attention to the details. I will see if I pick up valuable tips for #2.
Still looking for any input on durability, long term reliability, etc. How well has anyone liked (or hated) theirs.
I got a really good deal on these with other parts, so unless I take a slide to the kisser I figured I couldn't lose.
If you use all GLOCK parts including a GLOCK slide = no issues (based on the premise that you milled it correctly). People start to have issues when they add random aftermarket parts.
joedirt199
11-03-20, 15:58
Built one when I jacked up a gen 2 23 frame. Used my cousin's cheap drill press and it went well. Had some runnout on his cheap drill but all the holes came out fine. Will take some time to get the pins loose enough to come out with a glock armor's tool. It has a dual illumination rmr and no sights, so strictly a gaming gun. I like the grip and added an overwatch trigger.
Mysteryman
11-03-20, 19:28
Built one when I jacked up a gen 2 23 frame. Used my cousin's cheap drill press and it went well. Had some runnout on his cheap drill but all the holes came out fine. Will take some time to get the pins loose enough to come out with a glock armor's tool. It has a dual illumination rmr and no sights, so strictly a gaming gun. I like the grip and added an overwatch trigger.
I'm betting you drilled right through the frame as opposed to drilling each side separately like the directions indicate?
militarymoron
11-03-20, 19:40
I've got three P80 frames that used to replace the frames on three of my Glocks (one G19 size and two G17 sizes). I prefer the feel of the P80 frames, but don't like that they won't fit standard Glock holsters due to the wider trigger guard. They will fit most of my holsters that retain using the light. I ended up chopping the G17 size grips to G19 length (or close to it) and fitting mag wells on them, and they help me keep a higher grip on the frame. The slide rails on the P80 frame did require some tweaking/filing to ensure that there wasn't any binding, but once I did that, I haven't had any issues and they've been as reliable as the Glock frames they replaced. Anyone getting one needs to know that minor fitting may be required, just like any other aftermarket part.
joedirt199
11-03-20, 20:06
I'm betting you drilled right through the frame as opposed to drilling each side separately like the directions indicate?
No each side separate. Took some machining classes in college so I had a good grasp on it. Followed them up with a hand drill to just chace the holes after assembling a few times with a hammer and punches. They fit better now. Better to be tight than falling out loose.
Mysteryman
11-04-20, 17:31
No each side separate. Took some machining classes in college so I had a good grasp on it. Followed them up with a hand drill to just chace the holes after assembling a few times with a hammer and punches. They fit better now. Better to be tight than falling out loose.
Nice..
ViniVidivici
11-04-20, 22:38
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Does anyone make a polymer 80 frame that works with gen 5 parts?
ViniVidivici
11-12-20, 14:13
Not that I'm aware of.
I put one together and I’m not too crazy about it. I have a few issues with it. I’ve emailed the company and they blow me off. I’m using stock Glock internals with Brownell’s slide and barrel.
Czgunner, what are the issues you are experiencing?
ViniVidivici
11-12-20, 16:13
What're the problems? Maybe we can help.
Czgunner, what are the issues you are experiencing?
I finished my PF940CL build recently and have noticed that my slide doesn't easily return to battery. I always have to push it forward, sometimes even when firing, but almost always when manually running the slide. The connector rubs pretty hard on my slide and end plate. My factory Glock 19 does not have this level of interference. Also the rear edge of the cruciform/trigger is rubbing badly on my end plate. It has removed the finish in one spot. If I strip the slide and remove the barrel, it moves freely on the rails.
P80 gave me a run around about “just shoot it”, but I don’t think that’s the answer. It doesn’t seem to be getting any better.
I finished my PF940CL build recently and have noticed that my slide doesn't easily return to battery. I always have to push it forward, sometimes even when firing, but almost always when manually running the slide. The connector rubs pretty hard on my slide and end plate. My factory Glock 19 does not have this level of interference. Also the rear edge of the cruciform/trigger is rubbing badly on my end plate. It has removed the finish in one spot. If I strip the slide and remove the barrel, it moves freely on the rails.
P80 gave me a run around about “just shoot it”, but I don’t think that’s the answer. It doesn’t seem to be getting any better.
Can you identify any areas that are causing the bind? I had to do some minor filing and polishing on my build. I too had occasional failure to return to battery. My rail inserts were not quite square when checked using a straight edge. I cleaned them up and the problem is resolved.
ViniVidivici
11-14-20, 19:00
How many rounds through it?
How many rounds through it?
Some have ti do "fitting" to the rails. Automotive valve grinding compound works as a lapping compound in this regard.
Probably 100.
Am I incorrect thinking that the stripped slide moving freely should mean the rails are ok?
bulldozer3
11-14-20, 22:30
I finished my PF940CL build recently and have noticed that my slide doesn't easily return to battery. I always have to push it forward, sometimes even when firing, but almost always when manually running the slide. The connector rubs pretty hard on my slide and end plate. My factory Glock 19 does not have this level of interference. Also the rear edge of the cruciform/trigger is rubbing badly on my end plate. It has removed the finish in one spot. If I strip the slide and remove the barrel, it moves freely on the rails.
P80 gave me a run around about “just shoot it”, but I don’t think that’s the answer. It doesn’t seem to be getting any better.MGB has videos specifically discussing these problems and how to fix them.
Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
ViniVidivici
11-15-20, 14:04
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joedirt199
11-16-20, 14:28
Mine was catching till I relieved the "u" shape cutout where the recoil spring rides as it was catching the spring coils and slowing return to battery
Gary1911A1
11-16-20, 14:39
Marine Gun Builder has the best polymer 80 videos I have seen. https://www.full30.com/channel/marinegunbuilder
Mine was catching till I relieved the "u" shape cutout where the recoil spring rides as it was catching the spring coils and slowing return to battery
I verified, the channel is clear and smooth.
MGB has videos specifically discussing these problems and how to fix them.
Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
Got a link? I tried looking through his videos and don’t see a video for what I’ve got going on. Thank you for your suggestion.
Not sure if this comes through, but you can see the slide hanging/dragging on the connector?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/d2d6d5d87ec42c0fc5f22a4dcc95a577.jpg
ViniVidivici
11-17-20, 22:50
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Not sure if this comes through, but you can see the slide hanging/dragging on the connector?
So how many rounds do you have through it so far?
So how many rounds do you have through it so far?
About 100
As a quick update, I told P80 that my barrel seems to drag in the locking block. They sent me a new one and it arrived today. Works like it's supposed to now.
Thanks for the help!
ViniVidivici
11-20-20, 14:08
Oh damn that's awesome!
I know they're busy lately.....
MrGunsNGear just did a video on the 80Percent Arm kit and it peaked my interest. In all fairness they sent him a complete pistol and not a kit so it could have been cherry picked but it looks promising none the less.
I may pick one up and see how it works out. They have a crazy backorder but I have plenty to keep me busy.
I'm having the same exact issues as CZ. I pretty much gave up on it.
I'm having the same exact issues as CZ. I pretty much gave up on it.
My new locking block was vastly different. My barrel drops in, no problem. Contact them and ask for a new locking block.
ViniVidivici
11-20-20, 19:23
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I have a couple. Mixed results, but assembly was simple and easy. I haven't really shot them enough to have achieved a reasonable sense of break-in though, they feel good otherwise, i.e. smooth slide manipulation and return to battery. They are novelties to me, akin to collector or classic guns. As such, I don't carry them and so they don't get a ton of attention. As a side note, they have been platforms for testing all my other aftermarket glock parts; they are frankenstein builds for what that's worth.
I am mid way through doing a G17 Polymer80...
I've found the marinegunbuilder videos helpful...
https://www.marinegunbuilder.com/videos
The dremel drill press with oil (I used canola oil) works great on the holes...
https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/2cdca1c9-0f4b-44d1-a748-e91c976393f3/svn/dremel-rotary-tool-attachments-220-01-64_1000.jpg
The fret cutters make quick work of the "tabs"...
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81eTzBG3nuL._SL1500_.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HUDBUDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I really like the idea of having a non-traceable handgun and my hope is that this will fill that roll.
ViniVidivici
11-28-20, 00:42
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Assembly instructions specifically say not to use a drill press. Recommends hand drill/vise, and best to do holes before tabs.
Yes. Don’t use a drill press. Too much torque that can lead to breaking the frame. Dremel press with mineral oil works great though.
I've been heavily contemplating a p80 build before the end of January. I appreciate you guys turning me on to MGB's videos. Looks like I need a few more dremel attachments to really make this thing perfect. He brought a lot of things up that I wouldn't have thought about, like the gen 3 vs gen 4 ejector and extractor issues. I think clearing the channel and cleaning it up will be my biggest concern, but it looks like taking it slow and being patient is the key.
They are a joke.
People messing with them are just flushing money away and making parts harder to come by for real Glocks
We watched a few videos on these things and said "hell no". I'm fairly mechanical, but this looked like more ass ache than it was worth.
ViniVidivici
12-01-20, 15:23
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They're not hard to do at all.
If you can assemble an AR from scratch, you can do one of these. Easier than you'd think.
^^^THIS^^^
I think I said so before, but if you can tie your own shoes you can do this. If you can't and have to use velcro shoes it is probably 50/50.
joedirt199
12-01-20, 19:34
I used a drill press so I could get the holes perpendicular to the outside. One side then flip and do other side, not straight through. Now that I have my newest gen ejector and 9mm extractors I need to run some rounds for function test. Converted .40 to 9mm and was tired of random brass to face.
I built a compact/G26 version "just because." It did have a few feed problems in the first ~50 rounds, but has been 100% after that to somewhere around the 500 mark. Slide mated to rails well from the start, and is pretty much the same smoothness as my factory (Austria) G26 at this point. I used all Glock components except for a Lone Wolf trigger. I did find that I was shooting it better than my G26 until I swapped that trigger out for a smooth one, and now they are about equal in my hands.
The main idea behind getting it was to have a dedicated bedside piece with the ability to mount a light, but haven't felt the need for that yet, and am more used to a weak-side flashlight anyway.
It was an interesting project. Between the two, the Gen 3 G26 feels slightly more secure and points a little better for me, but the P80 is still very comfortable.
Agree with the ratings on difficulty, but would add "falling down stairs" to the list.
ViniVidivici
12-10-20, 08:24
Prices and availability have been stupid on these, but I saw this on another board:
https://www.lakearmory.com/pf940v2-80-full-size-frame-kit--black.html
Prices and availability have been stupid on these, but I saw this on another board:
https://www.lakearmory.com/pf940v2-80-full-size-frame-kit--black.html
Brownells has Coyote G19-sized in stock right now for $149.99:
https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/frames/pf940cv1-80-frame-textured-for-glock-19-23-32-prod97837.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=POLYMER80
If you order $150 worth of stuff (add another $0.01) code "TAG" should get you $15 off, if not code PTT should get you $10 of an order of $100 or more.
ViniVidivici
12-11-20, 09:23
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